For Tehran resident Fatemeh, the highlight of her day in a city beset by deadly daily US-Israeli strikes in the now month-long war is to make the short journey to her local cafe.

“When I make it to a cafe table, even for a few minutes, I can almost believe the world hasn’t ended,” said the 27-year-old dental assistant.

“It feels like stepping out of this damn war and into an ordinary day, or at least imagining a world that isn’t filled with the constant fear of losing your life, or where you stay alive but lose a loved one or everything you have,” she told AFP.

If a lull in the bombing allows a better night’s sleep, Fatemeh said she will put on make-up and dress up to make her visit to the cafe extra special.

“And then I go back home, back to the reality of living through war, with all its darkness and weight,” she said.

Residents of Tehran who spoke to AFP’s team covering the war in Paris painted a picture of a city that is still clinging to some routine, with cafes and restaurants open, no shortages reported in supermarkets or petrol stations, and people trying to keep up some vestige of a social life.

But they know that life is anything but normal with the US and Israel maintaining a relentless pace of bombardment on the capital since the war started on February 28 with the martyrdom of Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei and other top officials.

There are security checkpoints on what were peaceful streets, the internet has been blocked or drastically slowed for everything except domestic services, and windows are taped up to prevent them shattering in case of attack.

As well as fear of being killed or losing a loved one in an attack, people are gripped by anxiety over the future, over what kind of country they will live in and how they will make ends meet amid a collapsing economy.

The people who agreed to share messages with AFP gave only their first names for fear of the consequences were they to be identified by authorities.

‘Only thing left’

“These days, I mostly stay at home and only go out if I absolutely have to. The only thing left from my life routine before the war that helps me keep my spirit up is cooking,” said Shahrzad, 39.

But she added: “Sometimes I find myself crying in the middle of it. I miss ordinary days… A life where I didn’t have to constantly think about explosions, death, or losing my loved ones.

“I try to stay strong for my daughter… But when I think about the future, I can’t form any clear picture in my mind that I can hold on to with hope.”

People in Tehran have, over the last week, been trying to make the best they can out of the main traditional Persian holiday of Nowruz, a festival that normally sees people leave the city or celebrate at home with family.

“There is no famine, everything is available. Cafes are open, and we still go out to cafes,” said Shayan, 40, a photographer. “There is gasoline, water and electricity.”

“But there is a sense of helplessness in all of us. We don’t know what to do, and there’s really nothing we can do.

“There was no real Nowruz atmosphere at all, but we tried to force ourselves,” he said.

While shops and restaurants are open until 9pm, “many people don’t go out after the afternoon”, he added.

‘I miss a peaceful night’s sleep’

Elnaz, 32, a Tehran-based painter, said when attacks did relent and she had time to think, she remembered how much she missed “living a simple life”.

“We miss the simplest things, going out at night, or just being able to go to another part of the city.

“I miss something as ordinary as shopping somewhere other than the small grocery store or bakery on my street.

“I miss reading in a cafe, going to the park… all those very, very simple things.”

She added: “And more than anything, I miss a peaceful night’s sleep.”

Elnaz said that on some nights the attacks are so intense it feels like “all of Tehran is shaking”.

“Everything goes back to one state — survival. Thinking only about staying alive with all the people I love. My friends, my family, and the people of my city, who look kinder than ever in this difficult time,” she said.

Kaveh, 38, a visual artist, said a piece of a missile struck about 50 metres from his house a few days ago.

“I brought it home with me. I want to make something out of it when I get the chance,” he said, recalling that dust was falling from the sky and several windows were shattered immediately.

He described how, at night in some areas, groups of people who back the clerical system drive around, honking and gathering, “while just a few streets away, there are checkpoints where cars and phones of normal people are being searched”.

“If you have something to do in the city, you’ll likely pass through multiple checkpoints in a single day — each run by different groups. Cars are searched, phones are checked, and months of accumulated frustration are taken out on people at these checkpoints.

“These are just parts of our daily reality under these circumstances,” he said.

The morose atmosphere, residents say, has been compounded by unseasonably rainy weather that contrasts with the spring sunshine people are used to enjoying at Nowruz.

Portraits of children killed in attacks are displayed in squares, while giant flags of the Islamic Republic cover buildings that have been reduced to ruins.

“In the end, for many people, the most important concern is the future of Iran and its people, and what might actually improve the situation,” said Kaveh.

• Communication with plane lost at about 6pm local time.
• Search team has found the site of the catastrophe.
• Six crew members, 23 passengers on board were killed.

A Russian An-26 military transport plane crashed into a cliff in Crimea, killing 29 people on board, due to a possible technical malfunction, Russia’s defence ministry said early on Wednesday, according to news agencies.

TASS news agency, quoting the ministry, said communication with the aircraft was lost at about 6pm local time (1500 GMT) on Tuesday on a planned flight over Crimea. The peninsula, covered in sweeping mountains leading down to the coast of the Black Sea, was annexed by Russia from Ukraine in 2014.

“The defence ministry reported that a search team found the site of the catastrophe,” TASS reported. “According to a report from the site, six crew members and 23 passengers on board were killed.”

The ministry report did not say how many people were on board, but it made no mention of any survivors on the An-26, a light tactical military transport that has for decades been a mainstay that can carry cargo and up to 40 passengers over short and medium distances.

“There was no impact on the aircraft,” TASS quoted the ministry as saying, implying that objects like missiles, drones and birds were not involved.

“The preliminary cause of the crash is a technical malfunction. A commission from the military is working at the site,” it said.

Russia’s defence ministry did not respond immediately to a request for comment outside normal business hours.

The An-26 has been in service since the late 1960s and has also been used by airlines to carry freight, but the model has been involved in a number of deadly crashes over the last decade.

A Ukrainian An-26 crashed during a technical flight in Ukraine’s southeastern Zaporizhzhia region in 2022, killing one person. Another aircraft crashed on a training flight in northeastern Ukraine in 2020, killing all but one of the 27 people on board.

Eight people, including five Russians, were killed when an An-26 crashed in South Sudan in 2020. Four of 10 people on board were killed when an An-26 crashed on landing in Ivory Coast in West Africa in 2017.

• France blocks airspace for military flights carrying supplies to Israel.
• Italy denies US aircraft landing permission at Sicily air base.
• Spain closes airspace to US planes involved in Iran strikes.

France and Italy have pushed back against some US-Israeli military operations, sources said on Tuesday, as US President Donald Trump criticised Nato allies in Europe as unhelpful in the month-long war in Iran, highlighting divisions.

The decisions came against a backdrop of tensions between Washington and key partners over the war. Earlier this month, Trump called longtime Nato allies “cowards” over their lack of support. On Tuesday, he slammed countries that did not help in the US-Israeli strikes.

France says no

Trump accused France of blocking aircraft carrying military supplies to Israel from flying over its territory, writing on Truth Social that France had been “VERY UNHELPFUL”.

The French presidency said it was surprised by the post and said its decision was consistent with France’s policy since the conflict began.

A Western diplomat and two sources familiar with the matter told Reuters earlier that the refusal, which happened at the weekend, was the first time France had done this since the start of the conflict on February 28.

The sources said Israel had wanted to use France’s airspace to transport US weapons to be used in the war against Iran.

Israel’s defence ministry accused France of actively obstructing the transfer of munitions to Israel, according to a statement.

It said the French ban was imposed despite prior coordination and assurances that the munitions were intended solely for use against Iran, adding that the effort was critical to European security.

The ministry said Israel would cut all defence procurement from France and would have no new engagement with the French military. French arms sales to Israel are relatively small, and it was unclear whether the move would affect French troops serving with UN peacekeepers in Lebanon.

Italy denies permission

Italy last week denied permission for US military aircraft to land at the Sigonella air base in Sicily before heading to the Middle East, sources said.

According to the Corriere della Sera daily, which first reported the news, “some US bombers” had been due to land at the base in eastern Sicily before flying on to the Middle East.

Italy’s Defence Minister Guido Crosetto later denied any rift with Washington or any change in policy. He posted a message on X to say that US airbases remained active, but that Washington needed special permission for uses outside existing agreements.

Spain is most vocal against war

Meanwhile, Spain defended its decision to fully close its airspace to US planes involved in attacks on Iran.

Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez has been among the most vocal critics of the US and Israeli strikes and Defence Minister Margarita Robles said Spain will only allow for the use of its bases for the collective defence of Nato allies.

Trump also singled out Britain as being unhelpful, just as Buckingham Palace confirmed King Charles and Queen Camilla will pay a state visit to the US in late April.

He wrote on Truth Social: “All of those countries that can’t get jet fuel because of the Strait of Hormuz, like the United Kingdom, which refused to get involved in the decapitation of Iran, I have a suggestion for you: Number 1, buy from the US, we have plenty, and Number 2, build up some delayed courage, go to the Strait, and just TAKE IT.”

The United States, France, Italy, Spain and Britain are all Nato members, as is Germany, which hosts Ramstein, the largest US base in Europe.

Germany said early in the war there were no restrictions on the US using the base, though the issue has been debated after President Frank-Walter Steinmeier said he believed the war was illegal.