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Italy’s Zegna H1 profit surges as DTC drives 82% of branded sales

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Italy’s Zegna H1 profit surges as DTC drives 82% of branded sales



Italian luxury fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna Group has reported first-half (H1) 2025 revenues of €927.7 million (~$1,085.4 million), down 3.4 per cent year-over-year (YoY), and 2 per cent organically, as strategic wholesale streamlining offset growth in direct-to-consumer (DTC).

The profit rose 53 per cent to €47.9 million (~$56 million), lifting the profit margin to 5.2 per cent from 3.3 per cent. Adjusted EBIT was €68.7 million, with a 7.4 per cent margin (8.4 per cent in H1 2024).

Ermenegildo Zegna Group has posted revenues of €927.7 million (~$1,085.4 million) in H1 2025, down 3.4 per cent as wholesale streamlining offset 4.2 per cent DTC growth, now 82 per cent of branded sales.
Profit surged 53 per cent to €47.9 million (~$56 million), with gross margin at 67.5 per cent.
Zegna brand stayed resilient, Thom Browne fell, and Tom Ford Fashion posted losses.

The DTC revenues grew 4.2 per cent (6.1 per cent organic) to €698 million, reaching 82 per cent of branded revenues (76 per cent in H1 2024), and wholesale branded declined 27.1 per cent (26.5 per cent organic) to €154.2 million, Zegna Group said in a press release.

The gross margin improved to 67.5 per cent (+110 basis points), aided by the higher DTC mix, meanwhile the operating profit was €61.3 million (6.6 per cent margin) vs €73.1 million (7.6 per cent). The net financial items and foreign exchange (FX) turned positive €6 million (vs negative €24.8 million), aided by put-option remeasurement and a favourable US dollar/euro move.

Brand and segment wise, Zegna brand revenues were €570.4 million, up 0.8 per cent (2.6 per cent organic). Thom Browne recorded revenue of €129.2 million, down 22.5 per cent (21.7 per cent organic). Tom Ford Fashion saw a revenue of €152.7 million, up 2.8 per cent (3.8 per cent organic), and Textile with €67.1 million revenue was down 6.6 per cent.

Zegna delivered adjusted EBIT of €94.4 million, with margins rising to 14.3 per cent (up 150 basis points), supported by stronger operating leverage and disciplined cost management. Thom Browne generated €4.5 million, with margins falling to 3.5 per cent from 12.1 per cent, pressured by lower revenues and upfront costs tied to new DTC store openings. Tom Ford Fashion reported a loss of €19.4 million, with margins at –12.7 per cent, reflecting heavy investments in retail expansion, talent, IT systems, and organisational infrastructure.

By region, revenues in the Americas rose 6.8 per cent (9.3 per cent organic) to €262.7 million. Europe, Middle East, and Africa (EMEA) generated €328.9 million, a decline of 2.3 per cent (1.9 per cent organic). Greater China fell 16.2 per cent (14.7 per cent organic) to €223.1 million, while the Rest of Asia-Pacific (APAC) edged up 1.4 per cent (3.4 per cent organic) to €111.5 million.

The capital expenditure totalled €54 million, directed mainly towards DTC network growth and the new shoe plant in Parma (Italy). Trade working capital improved to €441.8 million, supported by reduced inventories and receivables following wholesale rationalisation. The net financial indebtedness stood at €92.1 million, remaining broadly stable.

“Our first-half 2025 results reflect the Group’s strategic decision to invest in the DTC store network and capabilities across our three brands, while continuing to support projects that fuel our long-term growth ambitions,” said Ermenegildo Gildo Zegna, Group chairman and CEO. “In this context, we are pleased with the operating results reported by the Zegna segment where stronger operating leverage and disciplined execution led to an improvement of the adjusted EBIT margin by 150 basis points. This strong performance helped balance the impact of the strategic transformation underway at Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion.”

“With the strength of our Filiera, the authenticity of our brands, and—above all—the clarity of our vision and the talent of our team, we remain on track to achieve our 2027 targets, despite sector and currency headwinds,” added Zegna.

The management reiterates confidence in achieving 2027 targets, citing the stronger Zegna segment profitability, continued DTC investments, and the group’s integrated Italian supply chain (Filiera). Near-term headwinds include sector softness and currency volatility as Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion continue strategic transitions.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand

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South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand



In the Mumbai market, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged as the loom sector slowed production. Although spinning mills are looking to raise their selling rates, they have not found sufficient demand. A Mumbai-based trader told Fibre*Fashion, “Power and auto looms are facing limited fabric buying from the garment industry. Export prospects are still unclear. Domestic demand is also insufficient to support any price rise. Mills are comfortable with falling cotton prices, while buyers remain silent on yarn purchases.”

In Mumbai, ** carded yarn of warp and weft varieties were traded at ****;*,****,*** (~$**.****.**) and ****;*,****,*** per * kg (~$**.****.**) (excluding GST), respectively. Other prices include ** combed warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, ** carded weft at ****;*,****,*** (~$**.****.** per *.* kg, **/** carded warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, **/** carded warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg and **/** combed warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, according to trade sources.



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Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India

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Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India



The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding, which could allow near zero-tariff access for Bangladeshi garments to the American market subject to specific riders, has triggered debate within India’s textile and apparel industry. The real gains from zero tariffs may be limited due to high freight costs, longer lead times, and insufficient capacity in Bangladesh’s spinning and weaving/knitting sectors.

Bangladesh is already among the top suppliers of apparel to the US, particularly in basic knit and woven categories such as T-shirts, trousers and sweaters. A tariff advantage, even if modest, could sharpen its price competitiveness in high-volume, price-sensitive segments dominated by mass retailers.

The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding offering near zero-tariff access for garments has sparked debate in India’s textile sector.
While Bangladesh may gain a price edge in basic apparel, industry leaders believe the effective advantage could be limited to 2–3 per cent due to raw material dependence, capacity constraints and logistics costs.

However, Indian industry leaders argue that the net gain for Bangladesh may be restricted to around 2–3 per cent in effective competitiveness. They point to structural constraints, including Bangladesh’s heavy reliance on imported raw materials. A significant share of its fabric and yarn requirements is sourced from China and India, limiting flexibility in rules-of-origin compliance if strict value-addition conditions are attached to the deal.

Capacity limitations in spinning, weaving and man-made fibre processing are also seen as bottlenecks. While Bangladesh has built scale in garmenting, its upstream integration remains narrower than India’s diversified fibre-to-fashion base. Indian exporters emphasise that integrated supply chains offer advantages in speed, customisation and smaller batch production.

Logistics and lead times may further temper expectations. Distance from major US ports, coupled with infrastructure pressures and global shipping volatility, could offset part of the tariff benefit. In contrast, Indian suppliers have been investing in port connectivity, digital compliance systems and flexible production models to strengthen reliability.

Industry representatives also highlight that US buyers are increasingly factoring in sustainability, traceability and geopolitical risk. India’s growing adoption of renewable energy in textile clusters, compliance with global standards and broader product depth may help it retain strategic sourcing partnerships.

While some diversion of orders in basic categories cannot be ruled out, exporters believe the overall impact will be incremental rather than disruptive. The consensus view is that tariff preference alone is unlikely to override considerations of scale, compliance, diversification and long-term supply-chain resilience.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)



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US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole

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US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole



United States (US) Senator Bill Cassidy, along with Senator Sheldon Whitehouse, have introduced the ‘Last Sale Valuation Act,’ legislation aimed at closing a long-standing customs loophole that allows importers to underpay duties by declaring goods at artificially low values. The act would require tariffs to be assessed on the final sale value of imported goods rather than earlier transactions in complex overseas supply chains.

“This bill protects Louisiana workers and American businesses, ensuring loopholes don’t hold them back,” Dr Cassidy said in a press release.

US Senators Bill Cassidy and Sheldon Whitehouse have introduced the Last Sale Valuation Act to close the ‘first sale’ customs loophole that lets importers underpay duties.
The bipartisan bill would base tariffs on final sale values, strengthen US Customs enforcement and curb duty evasion.
Supporters say it will protect American manufacturers, workers and federal revenue.

If passed, the bipartisan measure would grant clearer enforcement authority to US Customs and Border Protection (CBP), streamline valuation reviews and reduce disputes over documentation, while curbing mis-invoicing and related-party pricing schemes linked to tariff evasion and illicit financial activity.

The legislation has drawn support from the American Compass, the Coalition for a Prosperous America and the Southern Shrimp Alliance.

“Cassidy’s ‘Last Sale Valuation Act’ strengthens customs valuation by assessing duties on the final transaction value of goods entering the US,” said Mark A DiPlacido, senior political economist at the American Compass, adding that closing the judicially created ‘first sale’ loophole would reduce duty evasion, simplify enforcement and increase customs revenue.

Jon Toomey, president of the Coalition for a Prosperous America, said the bill is “an important first step in restoring customs integrity,” ensuring duties are paid on the true commercial value of imported goods and helping level the playing field for American manufacturers and workers.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)



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