In a busy, but chilly 24 hours, Milano Moda Uomo ranged from the mountain party animal style at Dsquared2 or fisherman’s inspired moods at Setchu, to Paul Smith’s archive revival and Corneliani’s AI-influenced display.

Dsquared2: Rocky Mountain ravers

Dsquared2’s invitation this season was a ski pass, though one imagined that it mainly gained guests entry into an après-ski bar or an after-hours club and not an actual mountain slope.

The backdrop was a wild snow-capped Canadian Rockies, the show’s star was “Heated Rivalry” star Hudson Williams, pouting as he walked down the snow-white runway in a denim jacket with frayed seams, black faded jeans and the first of a great series of new futuristic cowboy boots finished with ski bindings.
 
Designers Dean and Dan Caten blended slopes and sex with high-shine latex bodystockings worn with faux-fur trapper coats or studded corsets. In a cunning love, the Dsquared2 duo frosted denim jeans, loon pants, jackets or huge Klondike coats. Along with a great series of humungous glistening puffers – ideal to wear for a party to celebrate a gold medal winner in next month’s Milan Cortina Winter Olympic Games. 

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No wonder they entitled this fall 2026 collection, “Game On”. 
 
Many models donning retro-futurist goggles and winter shades in a collab’ with Carrera, often completed with a Dsquared2 x Carrera elastic band.
 
Despite the chilly theme, the model sizzled – especially two young shirtless beef cakes with pneumatic drill tummies, who were later called on to carry Dean and Dan on their shoulders as they took their ovation at the noisy finale. The Canadian twins looked like they were in heaven.
 
Setchu: From Greenland to Normandy
One of the most fertile designers in fashion today is Satoshi Kuwata, whose staged his third-ever runway show in his new home, a revamped atelier on Via Privata Rezia, in northwest Milan.

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For next season, Kuwata again sought inspiration in his favorite hobby – fishing. For the uninitiated, he’s maintaining a rich tradition among distinguished designers – seeing as Oscar de la Renta and John Rocha share a similar rod casting obsession.
 
And, thanks to winning the 2023 LVMH Prize, this Japan-born and Milan-based designer was able to indulge a life-long dream – flying to Greenland to fish the world’s best cod fish. 
 
“I know Greenland is very in the news now, but I went there before this current trendy boom began,” he cautioned in a pre-show briefing
 
Noted for his fabric innovations, Satoshi dreamed up a remarkable silk and wool jacquard that looked uncannily like sealskin. Seen on a fall-away blouse and skirt in this co-ed show.

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Blending east and west, he also played on traditional hooded top from icy northern Japan, and woven reed shoes from the sunnier south.
 
Blending East-meets-West with samurai-style duffle coats or ruched bankers suits – Tokyo financier-meets-Oxford rockstar.
 

Paul Smith: Archival energy

Sir Paul Smith’s love affair with Milan continues, as he enjoyed greeting fresh eyes to witness this latest archive-inspired collection.

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An indie Anglo-classic-with-a-twist collection by the designer, who personally opened the show with a witty monologue, talking into the microphone from the top floor of the thee-floor showroom.
 
“Fashion is getting more and more mass produced. Can you believe it, hmmmm,” lamented Sir Paul, in opening megaphone-like remarks, noting that his design team was inspired by his company archive of over 6,000 looks. Their ideas, in turn, inspire him.
 
Twisting classics so much so that several blazers were made literally inside out, showing exposed stitching and shoulder pads. A collection whose tailoring was very much in sync with the wider silhouettes that are dominating the current season. Cutting jackets so they hung away from the body and trousers flat front and very wide.

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Plus, in a season of iridescence, the cast donned shiny trousers and corporal’s military shirts made in active sport nylon. However, when the wind blows down from the Alps as it did today, the cast could wrap up in the fabric of the season Donegal tweed-style flecked woollens – made into flap pocket weekend jackets and soft-collared coats. Several models matching mini tricorne hats.
 
Backed up by Ryuichi Sakamoto’s “Riot in Lagos”, it made for a jolly moment. Winning Sir Paul an extended applause as he descended two floors in a long tour of the twisting catwalk.
 

Corneliani: AI meets Milan

Using AI, Corneliani’s creative director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte commissioned a novel film that played on iconic cinematic moments. Its title: “The Gentleman“.

Presented inside a Renaissance courtyard, it made for a great backdrop to his latest collection for the house – a neat blend of debonair with practical style. Presented on a dozen models, before a select group of editors, sat on 1930s cinema seats.
 
Amid all the drizzle of chilly Saturday, the windowpane, patch pocket trench coats looked ideal, as did the mohair-mix overcoats with peak collars. 
 
Made in a color mix of mauve, mud, pale gray, chocolate and more mauve.
 

“We have staged our last shows with music and with dance in the past two seasons. This season, we used AI to express those magic moment in cinema, and fashion’s special relationship with the silver screen,” he explained.
 
Inside the palazzo, one was also impressed by a very now sheepskin matelassé jerking, worn with a high roll neck merino wool sweater.  Or a precise brushed suede mud-hued blazer worn with a Nehru-collar shirt in faded bronze.
 
But in the end, the heart of Corneliani will always be its classy suiting. Made more attractive by Stefano’s relaxed interpretation of masculine style. Call it ‘Modern Gentleman’.