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French menswear season to feature 35 shows, with two Paris debutantes, and Balenciaga return

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French menswear season to feature 35 shows, with two Paris debutantes, and Balenciaga return


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December 18, 2025

This January’s French menswear catwalk season will feature 35 live shows, including two Paris debutantes, and at least 32 presentations, including a surprise return by Balenciaga

Hermes – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Scheduled to last six days from Tuesday, January 20 to Sunday evening, January 25, the season will welcome debut Paris shows by two noted young brands: Jeanne Friot and Magliano, according to the official calendar released Thursday by the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), French high fashion’s governing body.
 
Though the season’s most anticipated shows will be the debut of Grace Wales Bonner at Hermès, the return of Jacquemus, and the second menswear collection by Jonathan Anderson for the house of Dior. However, the house of Saint Laurent, notorious for its erratic show dates, has gone missing again from the French calendar, after showing last June.

In terms of new arrivals, Jeanne Friot is a gender-neutral brand based in Paris founded by Friot in 2020. A graduate of the Duperré School and then the Institut Français de la Mode in 2018, Friot cut her teeth at several fashion houses, including Balenciaga. Her show will open the season on Tuesday morning, in a busy opening day which finishes with Pharrell Williams’ fifth runway collection for Louis Vuitton.
 
Luca Magliano is a Bologna-born creator who first received recognition at the Who Is On Next? menswear awards in 2017. Six years later, Magliano nabbed the coveted Karl Lagerfeld award at the 2023 LVMH Prize. Last January he staged a dramatic show in Florence as Pitti’s guest designer, in a skilful and dramatic display that cleverly combined gender fluidity and quirky Italian tailoring.
 
Though the season’s hottest ticket will be Wales Bonner’s opening act at Hermès with a Saturday evening show, where she succeeds Veronique Nichanian after a three-decade-plus tenure. Jacquemus will climax the menswear season with the final show on Sunday night.
 
Anderson’s second Dior Homme menswear show will be staged on Tuesday afternoon, which ends with an evening show by Alexandre Mattiussi for his line Ami.
 
Balenciaga, which had previously presented menswear mainly in co-ed shows under designer Demna, will try out a novel format under his successor Pierpaolo Piccioli. The house will unveil its menswear online on January 15, when most buyers and press will be attending the Pitti menswear salon in Florence, before physically unveiling the collection on January 20 in its historic Paris HQ.
 
Elsewhere, Paris will also welcome back inventive perennials like Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, and Rick Owens. And feature shows by happening labels such as Willy Chavarria, Kidsuper, Sacai, 3. Paradis, and Kolor.
 
As noted, the house of Loewe has decided not to stage a runway show in the next menswear season in Paris in January. Instead, it will combine menswear and womenswear into a co-ed show during the next women’s ready-to-wear season in the French capital in March. While J.W. Anderson, the house of Loewe’s former designer Jonathan Anderson, who decamped to Dior, will also not stage a runway event.
 
In a busy week, four fresh arrivals will hold presentations: ERL by Eli Russell Linnetz from Los Angeles; Saudi label Kml; eco-friendly brand Sonia Carrasco; and Japanese minimalist label ssstein. While three other labels return after brief hiatuses: Charles Jeffery Loverboy, Maison Kitsuné, and Post Archive Faction (PAF).
 

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WTO launches 3rd phase of Enhanced Integrated Framework

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WTO launches 3rd phase of Enhanced Integrated Framework



World Trade Organisation (WTO) director general Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala called for strong partnerships to meet the objectives of the third phase of the Enhanced Integrated Framework (EIF) launched yesterday.

EIF is a mechanism aimed at leveraging and coordinating support for trade and investment priorities in least-developed countries (LDCs).

WTO Director-General Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala called for stronger partnerships to achieve the objectives of the Enhanced Integrated Framework’s (EIF) third phase, launched yesterday in Yaounde.
It aims to coordinate support for trade and investment priorities in LDCs.
The latest six-year phase has also secured fresh contribution pledges from Germany, Liechtenstein, Norway, Switzerland and the UK.

The new phase was launched at a side event to the 14th WTO Ministerial Conference (MC14) in Yaounde, Cameroon, co-organised by Cambodia, the United Arab Emirates and the EIF executive secretariat.

The third phase of the EIF introduces a shift from stand-alone projects to multi-year country programming. It is designed to help LDCs better integrate into the global trading system while addressing structural vulnerabilities and seizing new opportunities in areas such as digital trade, services, green value chains and regional integration.

The latest six-year phase also received new contribution pledges from Germany ($1.964 million), Liechtenstein (~$63,139), Norway ($4.15 million), Switzerland ($3.16 million) and the United Kingdom ($6.67 million).

“This third phase of the EIF comes at a defining moment for the LDCs and recently graduated countries. Familiar structural vulnerabilities are being compounded by a disrupted global trading system, power politics, debt pressures, climate change, and global economic uncertainty. At the same time, the current global context offers some important opportunities for LDCs to use trade to drive growth, development, and job creation,” Okonjo-Iweala said in a release issued by the WTO.

The DG also emphasised the need to scale up support and partnerships to match the ambition of the new phase.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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Vietnam overtakes China in US jackets, blazers imports

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Vietnam overtakes China in US jackets, blazers imports



US imports of jackets and blazers stood at $*,***.*** million in ****, reflecting a moderation from $*,***.*** million in **** and $*,***.*** million in ****. Despite the overall contraction, Vietnam strengthened its dominance, with exports rising to $***.*** million in ****, even as China’s shipments dropped sharply to $***.*** million, according to *fashion.com/market-intelligence/texpro-textile-and-apparel/” target=”_blank”>sourcing intelligence tool TexPro.

The transition has been gradual but decisive. In ****, China led with $***.*** million in exports to the US, ahead of Vietnam’s $***.*** million. The gap narrowed in ****, with China at $***.*** million and Vietnam close behind at $***.*** million. By ****, Vietnam had nearly caught up, reaching $***.*** million compared to China’s $***.*** million. The turning point came in ****, when Vietnam surged ahead as China’s exports declined significantly.



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China concludes Mexico tariffs create trade barriers for firms

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China concludes Mexico tariffs create trade barriers for firms



China’s Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM) released the final conclusions of its investigation into Mexico’s restrictive trade measures, determining that they constitute trade and investment barriers against China.

The probe, initiated on September 25, 2025, was conducted under China’s Foreign Trade Law and the country’s regulations on foreign trade barrier investigations.

China’s Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM) has concluded that Mexico’s tariff hikes and other restrictive measures on non-FTA partners constitute trade and investment barriers against China.
The probe, launched on September 25, 2025, found the policies limited market access and hurt Chinese firms, with Beijing authorised to take countermeasures to protect domestic industries.

MOFCOM found that Mexico’s decision to raise import tariffs on products from countries without free trade agreements, including China, as well as other restrictive policies, had limited market access for Chinese goods, services and investment.

The ministry stated that these measures had “restricted and impeded the entry of Chinese products, services and investment into the Mexican market,” thereby weakening the competitiveness of Chinese enterprises.

According to the ministry’s spokesperson, the findings confirm that Mexico’s policies constitute trade and investment barriers under Chinese law. The MOFCOM is authorised to take corresponding measures to safeguard the legitimate interests of Chinese industries.

The investigation forms part of China’s broader response to tariff hikes imposed by Mexico on non-FTA partners, which Beijing has repeatedly criticised as protectionist and detrimental to bilateral economic ties.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (JP)



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