Fashion
Pay, human rights and the environment: the OECD puts Shein on notice
By
AFP
Published
September 29, 2025
Asian fashion brand Shein “does not comply with several recommendations of the OECD guidelines” concerning human rights, wages and the environment, according to a press release issued by the organisation on Monday.
In 2023, French Socialist MPs referred the matter to the OECD’s National Contact Point (NCP), a body affiliated with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, to raise questions about several aspects of the online retailer’s supply chain.
Founded in 2012 in China and based in Singapore, Shein has regularly faced accusations of environmental pollution and unacceptable working conditions.
The NCP has just issued its non-binding conclusions. It accuses Shein of failing to comply with France’s “AGEC” law, which requires brands to indicate, for each product, the percentage of recycled materials used and the countries where weaving, dyeing and printing, and manufacturing are carried out.
In addition, it suspects Shein of shirking its labour-law obligations by hiding behind Chinese legislation, from which the majority of its sourcing originates. However, “it is up to the company to implement proactive measures to guarantee (…) compliance with applicable international standards”, failing which there remain risks of hindering workers’ freedom of association, precarious working conditions and even forced labour.
The OECD also regrets that Shein publishes neither “its factory audit framework” nor “any mapping of its activities or its supply chain”, nor any account of its social and environmental impacts, aside from calculations of greenhouse gas emissions.
The organisation also recommends that the company publish its financial results, capital structure and governance.
It acknowledges that “since receiving the referral, efforts have been made by Shein to formalise a sustainability policy and communicate its initial results”.
Shein “has participated constructively in this process for more than two years (from June 2023 to September 2025), sharing a great deal of information and remaining open to dialogue”, the company told AFP on Monday.
It said it regretted “that the procedure did not always reflect the spirit of neutral mediation envisaged by the OECD framework, due in particular to consultations limited to certain critics known to Shein”.
Paris, 29 September 2025 (AFP)
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Translated by
Nazia BIBI KEENOO
Published
September 29, 2025
Fendi has announced that, as of October 1, Silvia Venturini Fendi will assume the role of honorary president of the Roman Maison, following her illustrious creative tenure, which included overseeing the women’s wear collections during the brand’s centenary year. In her new capacity, she will champion Fendi’s heritage, continue to promote the brand globally, and celebrate the Maison’s rich history, exceptional craftsmanship, and the world of Fendi Casa.
Silvia Venturini Fendi represents the third generation of the Fendi family, founders of the historic Roman Maison. From 1992 to 2019, she worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld within the artistic direction. Since 1994, she has overseen the accessories and menswear lines and, more recently, the womenswear line. “These have been exhilarating years, which I have lived also in the name of my grandmother Adele, my mother Anna and her sisters. My thoughts go to Karl, an extraordinary master who honored me by allowing me to collaborate with him, teaching me the art of sharing — a defining quality in the female‑led history of my family — and encouraging me to cultivate and safeguard my creative vision before taking flight on my own. It has been a wonderful journey for me, also on a personal level: the bond with Karl Lagerfeld, then with Kim Jones, and, last but not least, with my fantastic team, which over the years has become part of my family,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi.
“Since 1992, Silvia has contributed significantly to shaping Fendi’s creative direction and has been instrumental in the brand’s international success. Her vision has guided Fendi from its Roman artisanal roots towards the future, culminating in the celebration of the Maison’s centenary. I am excited to see the projects Silvia will lead in her new role, contributing not only to Fendi’s legacy and values, but also to the worlds of design and craftsmanship on a global scale,” says Ramon Ros, chairman and CEO of Fendi.
A new creative organization for Fendi will be announced in due course.
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Translated by
Nazia BIBI KEENOO
Published
September 29, 2025
Backed by the European Union, the Re-Tights industrial initiative—known as “ReFilés” in French—is on a mission to build the first circular value chain for tights in Europe. The project brings together leading players in fashion and logistics, including Italian legwear giant Golden Lady, hosiery and retail powerhouse Calzedonia, its manufacturing subsidiary Ytres, postal logistics expert Asendia, and textile recycler Union Industries.
The project uses chemical separation technology to recover polyamide fibers. Each machine developed for this purpose is capable of recycling up to 1.6 million pairs of tights per year. The system relies on the specific expertise of each project partner.
Used tights are collected in Calzedonia stores, with logistics managed by Asendia. Golden Lady, a manufacturer of yarn and tights, in collaboration with Union Industries, is responsible for separating and recycling used tights using a process designed to produce polyamide yarn of comparable quality to virgin yarn. Calzedonia, via its Ytres subsidiary, then handles the production of new tights, ranging from essentials to more creative styles.
“Through this collaboration, Re-Tights aims to create a reproducible and sustainable model that could be applied to other complex textile products,” say the project leaders, supported by the LIFE programme, the European Commission’s financial instrument dedicated to supporting innovative environmental and climate protection projects.
In 2024, the European market for stockings and tights is estimated to have reached 402 million pairs. This corresponds to approximately €5.5 billion in revenue for the last financial year.
On the French market, Calzedonia operates a network of around 230 outlets. The brand belongs to the Oniverse group, which also owns Intimissimi, Tezenis and Falconeri. In 2024, Oniverse saw its total sales increase by 13.5% compared with 2023, exceeding €3.5 billion.
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