Fashion
Pay, human rights and the environment: the OECD puts Shein on notice
By
AFP
Published
September 29, 2025
Asian fashion brand Shein “does not comply with several recommendations of the OECD guidelines” concerning human rights, wages and the environment, according to a press release issued by the organisation on Monday.
In 2023, French Socialist MPs referred the matter to the OECD’s National Contact Point (NCP), a body affiliated with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, to raise questions about several aspects of the online retailer’s supply chain.
Founded in 2012 in China and based in Singapore, Shein has regularly faced accusations of environmental pollution and unacceptable working conditions.
The NCP has just issued its non-binding conclusions. It accuses Shein of failing to comply with France’s “AGEC” law, which requires brands to indicate, for each product, the percentage of recycled materials used and the countries where weaving, dyeing and printing, and manufacturing are carried out.
In addition, it suspects Shein of shirking its labour-law obligations by hiding behind Chinese legislation, from which the majority of its sourcing originates. However, “it is up to the company to implement proactive measures to guarantee (…) compliance with applicable international standards”, failing which there remain risks of hindering workers’ freedom of association, precarious working conditions and even forced labour.
The OECD also regrets that Shein publishes neither “its factory audit framework” nor “any mapping of its activities or its supply chain”, nor any account of its social and environmental impacts, aside from calculations of greenhouse gas emissions.
The organisation also recommends that the company publish its financial results, capital structure and governance.
It acknowledges that “since receiving the referral, efforts have been made by Shein to formalise a sustainability policy and communicate its initial results”.
Shein “has participated constructively in this process for more than two years (from June 2023 to September 2025), sharing a great deal of information and remaining open to dialogue”, the company told AFP on Monday.
It said it regretted “that the procedure did not always reflect the spirit of neutral mediation envisaged by the OECD framework, due in particular to consultations limited to certain critics known to Shein”.
Paris, 29 September 2025 (AFP)
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Fashion
ICE cotton stays weak as dollar falls; WASDE report awaited
ICE March 2026 cotton futures settled at 64.53 cents per pound, down 0.28 cents or 0.43 per cent. New contract-low closes were recorded for December 2025, March 2026, May 2026, and July 2026 for the second consecutive session.
ICE cotton futures remained weak ahead of WASDE report, with March 2026 settling lower and several contracts hitting new lows.
A softer US dollar offered limited support, while market caution persisted amid weak demand and muted buying.
US government’s reopening and recent export sales data had little impact, and analysts expect higher supply estimates as December’s first delivery date approaches.
The dollar fell to a two-week low, improving foreign buying interest, while Wall Street’s sharp decline and fading expectations of rate cuts added to overall market caution.
Total volume traded today stood at 94,153 contracts, while yesterday’s cleared volume of 115,071 contracts ranked as the eighth-highest on record.
The US government reopened after a 43-day shutdown, with most federal services resuming, and cotton prices remaining flat. Loan programmes will offer temporary relief to growers.
USDA export net sales for the week ending September 25 were 200,600 bales, including 199,500 Upland bales and 1,100 Pima bales for the 2025–26 season. This was the last weekly US cotton sales report issued before the shutdown.
Market sentiment remains under pressure as sellers are not realising profits despite competitive pricing, and demand is expected to stay muted.
Market analysts said the upcoming USDA report may show higher supply and a slight reduction in export projections. The December contract remained under pressure as the first delivery date approaches on November 21.
This morning (Indian Standard Time), ICE cotton for December 2025 was trading at 62.93 cents per pound (up 0.03 cent), cash cotton at 60.40 cents (down 0.40 cent), the March 2026 contract at 64.56 cents (up 0.03 cent), the May 2026 contract at 65.76 cents (up 0.06 cent), the July 2026 contract at 66.85 cents (up 0.04 cent), and the October 2026 contract at 67.33 cents (down 0.26 cent). A few contracts were unchanged from their previous close, with no trading recorded so far today.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)
Fashion
US’ VF Corp completes $600 mn Dickies sale to Bluestar Alliance
The deal, valued at an aggregate base purchase price of $600 million in cash, remains subject to customary adjustments, the company said in a release.
VF Corporation has closed its $600 million sale of the Dickies brand to Bluestar Alliance.
The deal follows an earlier agreement for the iconic workwear and streetwear label, which operates in 55 countries.
Bluestar CEO Joseph Gabbay praised Dickies’ strong legacy, while VF CEO Bracken Darrell said the brand has a bright future and strong growth potential under its new ownership.
The transaction follows the definitive agreement announced earlier this year, under which Bluestar Alliance committed to acquiring the Dickies brand. Known for its century-long heritage in performance workwear and its influence across streetwear culture, Dickies today has distribution in 55 countries and continues to resonate with a wide spectrum of global consumers.
Bluestar Alliance CEO Joseph Gabbay highlighted the brand’s deep legacy, noting that the company has followed Dickies for many years and values the strong foundation built by VF Corporation. He said the firm aims to unlock further growth by leveraging its consumer insights, operational capabilities, and brand-building expertise.
“Dickies is an iconic American workwear brand with a bright future, and I am confident that under Bluestar Alliance’s ownership, it will continue to improve and realize its significant growth potential,” said VF’s president and chief executive officer, Bracken Darrell.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (HU)
Fashion
Swedish brand H&M studio unveils theatrical holiday 2025 collection
The colour palette is decadent yet refined with black, dark chocolate brown, deep burgundy, beige, white and a pop of acid yellow. Materials include washed leather, lightweight taffeta, sheer sequins, heavy cotton, jacquards and mesh fabrics. The key pieces have an air of nostalgia but are always grounded in contemporary design twists. Like the strong black tuxedo featuring a cropped blazer and high-waisted trousers with open slits on the back. Or the voluminous cape in black polka dot mesh with a high ruffled collar and deep ruffled hem over a sleeveless black dress with intricate draping – a two-in-one creation. And for a glittering ‘wow’ moment, there’s a beige sequinned mesh bandeau dress with spectacular ruching across the body.
H&M Studio Holiday 2025 showcases decadent tones of black, dark chocolate, deep burgundy and acid yellow in washed leather, taffeta, sequins and mesh.
Standouts include a cropped tuxedo, polka-dot mesh cape dress and sequinned bandeau.
Reimagined shirting, checked wool coats, washed leather jackets and bold accessories complete a wardrobe that channels late-1970s and early-1980s flamboyance.
Shirting is also vital to the season. The classic white tuxedo shirt has been reimagined with a wide-open collar and cut-out shoulders to show off statement necklaces or earrings. A white ruffled high-collar shirt adopts the tuxedo bib front and deep cuffs. Meanwhile, outerwear comes in the form of a brown-black long wool belted coat in a blown-up check pattern with a separate scarf attachment and a cropped black washed leather jacket that takes cues from a trench. Accessories push every look, from black washed satin kitten heels with oversized bows and dark chocolate brown boots with a wide draped leather shaft to black lace gloves with ruffle hem, multi-strand necklaces and a beret in washed velvet denim.
“The late 1970s and early 1980s was a time of pushing boundaries, combining the past and future to create something new for the present. For this holiday season at H&M Studio, we wanted to do the same while channelling the flamboyance of that time. So the silhouettes are striking, and we play with volume, but nothing is too perfect or pretty. And the collection acts as a complete wardrobe – leaving it to each person to define their own take on partywear,” says Kathrin Deutsch, H&M Studio Collection Designer.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
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