Fashion
Proenza Schouler names Diotima’s Rachel Scott as new creative director
Published
September 2, 2025
Proenza Schouler has appointed Rachel Scott, the founder and designer of Diotima, as its new creative director, the New York house announced on Tuesday, a decision that is sure to be well-received.
Scott’s inaugural presentation as creative director for Proenza Schouler will debut in February 2026 with the Fall/Winter 2026 collection, marking a new chapter for the brand.
Scott actually joined Proenza Schouler as a consultant earlier this year, working closely with the design studio to shape the brand’s creative evolution. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection, developed through this collaborative partnership, “serves as an opening statement and an intimate preview of her perspective, one that will continue to unfold in the seasons ahead,” the Manhattan marque added.
Long recognized as a brand synonymous with craft and New American luxury, Proenza Schouler will enter a new chapter with Scott at the helm. Rachel brings a global design perspective, vast technical knowledge, and a distinctive new voice that aligns seamlessly with Proenza Schouler’s brand DNA, the brand underlined.
“As one of the most celebrated design talents of today, Rachel brings a fresh and female perspective to a brand built on the spirit of the modern American woman. Her profound understanding of Proenza Schouler’s brand codes, paired with her exceptional ability to marry craft with innovation, made her the natural choice to lead the brand forward,” said Proenza Schouler CEO Shira Suveyke Snyder in a release.
Scott succeeds the Proenza Schouler founding partners Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, who quit the house after two decades this year to move to Paris and become the joint creative directors of Loewe, taking over from Jonathan Anderson after he left to become the creative director of sister LVMH brand Dior.
“It is with great excitement that I join Proenza Schouler, a brand at the heart of American fashion, and one I have long admired. I hold deep respect for the beauty and world Jack and Lazaro so brilliantly crafted, and I look forward to bringing my perspective in dialogue with their legacy. I am grateful to Shira for her trust, and I am honored to step into this role to envision the next chapter of Proenza Schouler,” Scott enthused.
Scott, a 41-year-old designer, was born in Jamaica and is often said to approach fashion via language – blending in elements of French existentialism and post-structuralism. In a 16-year career, she has worked in Milan, with a stint at Costume National, and in New York, where she founded Diotima in 2021. She has since gone on to win considerable critical acclaim and a certain cult status for her adventurous collections.
“When we left Proenza Schouler last January, we knew the story would go on, but not yet who would write the next chapter. Rachel is someone whose work we have always admired. Her trajectory over the last few years has been impressive to watch. As founders and board members of the company, we are proud to welcome her to this very special brand and excited to see how she will embrace and evolve the legacy and spirit of what we started,” said Hernandez and McCollough in the press release.
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Published
October 18, 2025
Recognised as a protected geographical indication in France, Dentelle de Calais-Caudry says it has begun the process of becoming a European geographical indication to better protect its identity against low-grade counterfeits.
From December 1, the European Union will introduce a simplified procedure under Regulation 2024/1143, which now governs geographical indications and protected designations of origin across its Member States.
Crucially, Europe is now extending a protection regime to artisanal, manufactured, and industrial products, which was previously reserved for agricultural produce, foodstuffs, and spirits.
“The Dentelliers de Calais-Caudry have already applied to the INPI, which is responsible for forwarding their application to the EUIPO (European Union Intellectual Property Office), so that their geographical indication can be recognised throughout the European Union”, say the Calais and Caudry lacemakers.
Dentelle de Calais-Caudry became a regulated geographical indication in France at the beginning of 2024. It took the local industry’s representatives five years to achieve this goal, which aims to distinguish and protect know-how that is more than two centuries old, and relies on the use of imposing, complex Leavers looms, which lend their name to the lace they produce. In 1958, the “Dentelle de Calais” label was launched, and in 2015 it became “Dentelle de Calais-Caudry”, to include manufacturers from the Caudry area.
“Regularly confronted with very poor-quality counterfeits that damage their image and sales, the lacemakers of Calais-Caudry will, by obtaining this European geographical indication, benefit from legal protection across the 27 countries of the Union”, says the label, which hopes that “this guarantee of authenticity and quality, which will reassure all designers, stylists and lovers of Calais-Caudry lace, will help safeguard this know-how, these ‘passion’ trades, and accelerate international development.”
Today, Calais-Caudry lace is produced in Calais by Codentel, Cosetex, Noyon (Darquer), and Sophie Hallette / Riechers Marescot, which also operates in Caudry. The town is also home to Beauvillain Davoine, Darquer & Méry, Dentelles André Laude, Dentelles MC, Jean Bracq, and Solstiss.
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The new directive aims to cut waste, reduce environmental damage, and strengthen the EU’s economic resilience by driving sustainable innovation and decreasing reliance on raw materials. It aligns with the EU’s Competitiveness Compass and Strategic Agenda for 2024–29, European Commission said in a press release.
The European Union’s revised Waste Framework Directive came into effect yesterday, establishing unified rules for EPR in textiles and setting binding targets to reduce food waste.
Aimed at cutting waste and boosting circularity, it requires Member States to set up EPR schemes, reduce food waste by up to 30 per cent by 2030, and promote eco-modulated fees, and sustainable design.
The EU’s textile and clothing industry remains an economic powerhouse, generating €170 billion (~$198.9 billion) in 2023 and employing 1.3 million people across nearly 197,000 companies. Yet, it is also one of the most resource-intensive sectors, ranking third in water and land use impact and fifth in raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019 alone, the EU generated 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only one-fifth separately collected for reuse or recycling.
To address these challenges, the revised directive introduces two major sets of measures to promote circularity and competitiveness:
- Under mandatory EPR schemes, each Member State must establish a system requiring producers of textiles and footwear to pay fees for every product placed on the market. These funds will finance collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal operations. The fees will also support consumer awareness campaigns and R&D in sustainable design and waste prevention. EPR fees will vary according to sustainability criteria under the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)—a principle known as eco-modulation. Producers will pay less for durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products, incentivising circular design.
- The directive also sets new rules for managing used textiles, ensuring that all separately collected textiles are classified as waste to prevent false reuse labelling and illegal exports. Unsorted textile waste will fall under the Waste Shipment Regulation.
Member States have 20 months to transpose the directive into national law and 30 months to set up their textile and footwear EPR schemes. Competent authorities must be designated by January 17, 2026, and updated food waste prevention plans finalised by October 17, 2027.
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