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Swiss watch exports drop sharply amid weak China demand and US tariffs

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Swiss watch exports drop sharply amid weak China demand and US tariffs


By

Bloomberg

Published



September 18, 2025

Swiss watch exports tumbled in August as Chinese demand remained weak and stiff US tariffs went into effect.

A watch by TAG Heuer – Divulgação

Exports fell about 17% from a year earlier, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said in a statement Thursday. All main markets saw double-digit declines, with China down 36% and the US — the watch industry’s largest market — falling 24%.

To an extent, the plunge reflected an expected rebalancing following the high level of exports seen in April and July, ahead of anticipated tariffs, according to the statement.

Still, the figures highlight the more challenging conditions for Swiss-based watchmakers, including those controlled by Richemont, Swatch Group AG, and LVMH, as well as independents such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Rolex SA. Swatch shares fell as much as 2.1% and Richemont dipped 0.7% in early trading.

“The broad-based downturn underscores the formidable headwinds the Swiss watch industry continues to face,” Vontobel analyst Jean-Philippe Bertschy said in a note. “Recent reports from several watch brands suggested pockets of resilient US demand and a tentative stabilization in China. Today’s data, however, largely negates those signals,” he said.

The 39% levy the US applied on Switzerland — higher than the European Union and other developed economies — went into effect on Aug. 7 and has shaken the watchmaking industry. Many producers had rushed to build up inventory in the US to avoid tariffs.

One opted for a creative way to nudge the Swiss government to reach an agreement with the US. Swatch last week unveiled a special tariff edition priced at 139 Swiss francs ($176) and sold only in Switzerland. On the dial, the numbers three and nine are reversed — a nod to the 39% duty. The model will be pulled from stores once a new deal is made, according to a spokesperson.

Last Friday, U.S. Commerce Secretary Howard Lutnick struck a more positive tone and predicted that the U.S. would eventually reach a trade deal with Switzerland. The latest talks were described as “constructive.”



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Wolf & Rita records growth in the US, plans retail expansion in 2026

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Wolf & Rita records growth in the US, plans retail expansion in 2026


By

Portugal Textil

Published



November 5, 2025

Portuguese childrenswear brand Wolf & Rita has posted growth in the North American market, now its main market, and is preparing new strategies for 2026, with a focus on expansion in Portugal and across Europe.

©Wolf & Rita

Wolf & Rita had a steady 2024, albeit with significant shifts across international markets. “Last year we were at cruising speed, stable. We saw a slight dip in Japan, as the market is facing significant economic difficulties, but we grew strongly in the US, which has become our leading market” and now accounts for 25% of turnover, Sónia Rocha tells Portugal Têxtil.

According to the brand’s co-founder, Asia, which until then had been the main market, has been overtaken by the US, driven by a new distributor who works “with a very specific community, the Orthodox Jewish community in Brooklyn”, which has “strong purchasing power and is embracing Wolf & Rita.”

With the autumn/winter 2025 collection also enjoying a good reception, including online sales in the US, Sónia Rocha recognises that the next challenge lies in customs duties. “We believe that online sales will decline. The challenge and the strategy will be to increase sales to shops, so they can better meet the market’s needs locally. Because the wholesale price we sell at, and the business model we’ve been using, already cover the duties,” she explains.

The brand is also seeing positive momentum in the Middle East, with a presence in Kuwait, Qatar, and Saudi Arabia and an increasing number of points of sale. “It’s a market that, while not yet as significant as the US, is growing,” notes the co-founder of Wolf & Rita. Currently, the Middle East represents around 15% of the brand’s turnover, while Asia accounts for between 15% and 17%.

By contrast, the Portuguese market remains “very residual.” Sónia Rocha acknowledges that “all the shops we had selling Wolf & Rita, unfortunately, did not survive.” Even so, online sales place Portugal as the third- or fourth-largest market, especially during promotional periods. “Our main strategy for 2026 is to undertake marketing and communication for the Portuguese market, to see if we have any room for growth here,” she reveals.

In Europe, the focus is on the Benelux countries, particularly the Netherlands and Belgium, which Sónia Rocha considers to have the greatest potential. “We’re now working with a consultant and then we’ll move on to the communications side, demystifying the idea that people have of Wolf & Rita being a very unattainable, fashion-led brand,” explains the co-founder. However, she clarifies that despite the “strong image,” “60% of the collection is knitwear, easily combined with other brands. But people don’t see that and we’re working on simplifying the collection and making it more commercial, so that we can then communicate that.”

The current collection, launched in August, is in line with previous years’ collections and, “even though the economic situation isn’t great in Japan and the cold weather has yet to set in, Wolf & Rita is outperforming other brands. So we’re happy with the results this collection is achieving,” she concludes.

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Super-stylist Clare Byrne is new fashion director of i-D

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Super-stylist Clare Byrne is new fashion director of i-D


Published



November 5, 2025

Karlie Kloss’s Bedford Media said Wednesday that its i-D Magazine has named stylist Clare Byrne its global fashion director, effective immediately. 

i-D’s Clare Byrne

Reporting to editor-in-chief and chief brand officer Thom Bettridge, she takes on a role previously held by Carlos Nazario, Alastair McKimm, Julia Sarr-Jamois and Edward Enninful (who was global fashion director for 20 years until 2011).

Byrne works between New York and Europe and we’re told she “brings an instinctive approach to visual storytelling that is often defined by colour, humour and a refined sense of composition”. 

She was most recently fashion director at The Travel Almanac, “where she introduced a fashion perspective and elevated the roster of contributors and subjects to feature talents such as Grimes, A$AP Rocky, Arca and Anohni”. 

Her styling work has appeared in a variety of publications including Pop, M Le Monde, Vogue, W Magazine, Fantastic Man, Double, and i-D itself. She actually worked on the ‘Unknown’ cover story with Ezra Khoury for the relaunch issue earlier this year. 

She also styles and consults for brands including Heaven, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Calvin Klein, Tiffany & Co and MAC and has worked closely with major-name photographers and directors including Inez & Vinoodh, Roe Ethridge, Craig McDean, Aidan Zamiri, Willy Vanderperre, Charlotte Wales, Collier Schorr, Theo De Gueltzl and Ethan James Green.

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When imitation becomes intelligence

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When imitation becomes intelligence




Copying often sustains creativity rather than destroying it.
When a silhouette or motif spreads, margins do not necessarily collapse.
Most garments fall outside the scope of long-term copyright or patent monopolies.
The danger of over-regulation is to mistake control for value.
A balanced framework can preserve openness, reward originality, and keep the industry’s creative cycle alive.



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