Fashion
Compass-backed Lugano files for bankruptcy after ex-CEO sued
By
Bloomberg
Published
November 17, 2025
Lugano Holdings Inc., an operator of high-end jewelry boutiques owned by Compass Diversified, has filed for bankruptcy months after it accused its former chief executive of stealing millions of dollars from the business and misrepresenting investment deals with high net worth clients.
The retailer sought court protection Sunday in Delaware saying it has an offer to sell the business to Enhanced Retail Funding, a deal that must be approved by a bankruptcy judge and is subject to better offers at a Chapter 11 auction. Lugano listed at least $100 million in assets and more than $500 million in liabilities on its Chapter 11 petition.
The bankruptcy filing comes months after the departure of former Lugano Chief Executive Officer Mordechai Haim Ferder, who established the business in 2004. Following an internal investigation by Compass, Lugano filed a civil lawsuit in June accusing Ferder of forging invoices and sale documents.
“With Lugano’s decision in place, there is now a defined and orderly process to bring the Lugano matter toward resolution,” Compass Chief Executive Officer Elias Sabo said in a statement.
Compass acquired a majority interest in the business in 2021 at a $256 million valuation, according to court papers.
The complaint alleges Ferder concealed the nature of transactions he entered into with high net worth individuals related to financing the purchase of diamonds that investors were told would be sold for a higher price, according to the lawsuit. Investors were told they’d get a stake in a diamond and would be repaid at a “substantially above market, interest rate,” the lawsuit alleged.
Ferder is accused of disguising these transactions as ordinary sales and recording the incoming funds as revenue rather than liabilities, according to the complaint. As a result, he misled Lugano’s stakeholders and auditors about the company’s actual performance and valuation, the lawsuit alleged.
Ferder resigned as chief executive officer in May and has not formally responded in court to the June lawsuit. He couldn’t be reached for comment Monday. Lugano said in the June lawsuit that Ferder was residing in Tel Aviv “and appears to be in the process of moving his assets out of the United States and to Israel.”
Lugano Chief Restructuring Officer J. Michael Issa said in a Sunday court filing that other lawsuits have been filed against the company and Ferder since the summer.
Ferder and his affiliated entities retained about 40% of the business following the Compass acquisition, a deal that fueled the opening of additional boutiques and a private social club for its clients called Lugano Privé, Issa said.
The company had believed it generated $470 million in revenue and $180 million in operating income in 2024 but now “those amounts are being revised to reflect actual revenues and operating income at substantially lower levels,” he said.
Compass has agreed to provide Lugano with $12 million in Chapter 11 financing to fund the bankruptcy and related sale process. Lugano said its stores remain open and are operating normally.
The case is Lugano Diamonds & Jewelry Inc., number 25-12055, in the US Bankruptcy Court for the District of Delaware.
Fashion
The sneaker boom had a long run. Now some analysts say it’s over
By
Bloomberg
Published
January 11, 2026
For nearly two decades, sports brands benefited as people swapped out dress shoes for sneakers when heading everywhere from the airport to fancy restaurants and even the office.
That’s been a boon for Adidas AG, Nike Inc. and Puma SE, which capitalized on consumers’ changing tastes by serving up snazzy, comfy kicks that people wanted to wear on and off the playing field. The rising demand for sports shoes also underpinned the rapid growth of challengers like Hoka and On Holding AG, which emerged in the wake of the financial crisis and quickly became popular brands.
Now the future of that longstanding sneaker boom is being called into question, most notably by Bank of America analysts led by Thierry Cota. They rocked the footwear world last week with a 61-page analysis concluding that the growth prospects for these sports brands are rapidly dimming.
They argue that the sporting goods sector had enjoyed a 20-year “upcycle” that lifted sneakers from less than a quarter of world footwear sales to at least a half — a trend that culminated during the Covid pandemic, when millions of people were suddenly working from home. “With this structural shift largely complete, prospects for future revenue growth are now significantly reduced,” the analysts said.
They accompanied that view with a rare “double downgrade” of Adidas, abandoning their “buy” rating and declaring the stock one of the least attractive in the industry.
Their contention that the sneaker boom has passed its peak prompted a backlash from skeptics who say the casual footwear trend has room to run. Longtime industry analyst Matt Powell, an adviser at consulting firm Spurwink River, conveyed that sentiment on LinkedIn, where he posted a Barron’s article about the research and commented: “C’mon, man! No evidence of this.”
Adidas shares plunged as much as 7.6% in response to the downgrade on Tuesday, before recovering part of those losses by the end of the week.
Sneakers now make up about 60% of footwear sales in the US, according to Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana in New York. Sport shoes have won over the population as part of a wider societal push toward comfort, health and wellness, priorities that probably aren’t going to disappear anytime soon, she said. The US sneaker category grew 4% last year through November, while the fashion category dropped 3%, she added.
“The sneaker business is larger than ever,” she said. “I wouldn’t even call casualization a trend — it’s just a key consumer preference.”
Yet the sneaker makers have run into headwinds since the pandemic as they sometimes failed to keep up with shoppers’ fickle tastes, saw sales cool particularly in China, and faced the threat of US tariffs. Shares of Adidas are down by almost a third in the past year, and even On Holding’s stock is down by more than 10% in the period, despite strong revenue growth.
“We don’t believe the casualization trend is over — rather, it has stabilized, with wardrobes now more balanced,” said Poonam Goyal, an analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence.
“The category has moved beyond the pandemic-driven demand spike and is now operating in a more normalized environment.”
There are signs that sneakers are bleeding into the dress shoe category. In 2025, the top-traded loafer on Stockx, an online resale platform, was the New Balance 1906L, which looks like the offspring of a preppy boat shoe and a marathon trainer. It’s also common these days to see movie stars and fashion influencers donning spiffed-up, expensive versions of trainers, often in collaboration with luxury brands like Gucci and Moncler.
The analysts at Bank of America didn’t suggest that people are going to ditch their sneakers for patent leather oxfords anytime soon. Rather, they indicated that sporting goods — after booming during the pandemic — have since mid-2023 been growing at a slower-than-average pace compared with the past couple of decades.
While that typically could mean the industry is poised to take off again, no big rebound is apparent, the analysts argued. They cited data ranging from recent credit card purchases to sluggish sales figures from Asian footwear and apparel suppliers to less-than-bullish commentary from industry leaders regarding the outlook for 2026.
If the sporting goods industry grew by an average of about 9% a year since 2007, as millions of people traded in dress shoes for sneakers, the future annual expansion may only be about 4% or 5%, they suggested.
Their optimistic take is that the industry is in a prolonged slump because of consumers fearing economic conditions and recent stumbles at Nike. That could mean that the sneaker boom still has legs and will resurge as early as 2027.
“The alternative is much worse and more likely, in our view,” the Bank of America analysts added. “The emergence of a new, less favorable long-term industry paradigm.”
Fashion
As natural resources dwindle, luxury fashion must pursue sustainability says Square Management study
Published
January 11, 2026
Long defined by rarity, artisanal excellence, and desirability, the luxury sector now faces an unprecedented equation: how can it continue to create value without further increasing pressure on natural and social resources? This is the question addressed by the report “Business models for sustainable luxury,” published by the consultancy Square Management, which offers an in-depth analysis of the transformation of luxury business models through the lens of planetary boundaries.
The study’s first finding is that luxury occupies a strategic position in the ecological transition. With global sales of 364 billion euros in 2024 and considerable symbolic weight, it wields significant influence across the creative industries as a whole. Yet this influence plays out against a backdrop of multiple pressures: the growing scarcity of raw materials (gold, leather, cashmere); tighter regulation (the CSRD directive, the AGEC law, the Green Deal); the increasing integration of ESG criteria into financial valuation; evolving consumer expectations; and shifting cultural norms around consumption.
A strategy to be implemented globally
In the face of these shifts, the study shows that marginal adjustments are no longer enough and urges the luxury sector to undertake a profound transformation of its business models. To frame this reconfiguration, the report draws on the circular economy’s “9Rs” framework, which ranks sustainability strategies from the least to the most transformative, from recycling to calling into question overproduction.
The study highlights a wide variety of models already in play. The least ambitious strategies focus on waste-to-energy (Recover) or the recycling of raw materials (Recycle), with examples including Guerlain‘s refillable bottles and Prada‘s Re-Nylon line. More structurally significant are upcycling approaches (Repurpose, Remanufacture, Refurbish), which turn unsold items and dormant stock into creations with high symbolic value: Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Coach, and Jeanne Friot exemplify this blend of circularity, creativity, and storytelling.
Reducing production and buying less: two key ideas for sustainability
Repair is a crucial lever. By extending product lifespans, it avoids the most emissions-intensive stages of the life cycle. Maisons such as Hermès, Chanel, and Cartier have made it a pillar of their client relationships, while platforms such as Tilli are helping to structure this practice at scale. Re-use and rental are also fast-growing markets, driven by younger generations: 65% of luxury consumers say they are interested in buying second-hand, according to the “True-Luxury Global Consumer Insights” report (BCG-Altagamma, 2023), a figure that is rising steadily.

The most transformative models are those aimed at reducing production itself, namely Reduce, Refuse (superfluous purchases), and Rethink. On-demand manufacturing, pre-orders or limited production, as practised by Gabriela Hearst or MaisonCléo, help limit unsold stock while reinforcing exclusivity. Some houses go further still, committing to regenerative models: Kering invests in regenerative agriculture, while Chloé embeds social and environmental impact at the heart of every product as a mission-driven company. However, the report emphasises that these transformations face major obstacles.
The limits of the “do less harm” philosophy
Internally, many obstacles are cited to the introduction of circular models: complex logistics, high costs, cognitive resistance, and a cultural attachment to ownership. To overcome these, the study’s authors identify several key factors, including enhanced traceability (notably via blockchain), co-opetition between players to pool costs and, above all, the ability to reframe sustainable luxury symbolically, not as a renunciation, but as a new form of prestige.
The study also highlights a strategic shift: luxury can no longer settle for “doing less harm.” It is now expected to create positive, measurable, and shared value that is compatible with planetary boundaries. A transformation that profoundly redefines the very notion of desirability.
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Fashion
Bangladesh garment exports fall in Nov 2025, up slightly in July-Nov
Woven garment exports slightly outpaced knitted garment exports in terms of growth. Knitwear exports (Chapter **) declined by * per cent to $*.*** billion, compared with $*.*** billion in the same period of fiscal ****–**. In contrast, woven apparel exports (Chapter **) rose by *.** per cent to $*.*** billion, up from $*.*** billion during July–November ****, EPB data showed.
Home textile exports (Chapter **, excluding ******) also expanded, increasing by *.** per cent to $***.** million from $***.** million in the same period of the previous fiscal. Taken together, exports of woven and knitted apparel, clothing accessories, and home textiles accounted for **.** per cent of Bangladesh’s total exports, which stood at $**.*** billion during the period. Growth in home textiles was supported by firmer demand for niche value-added products, along with Bangladesh’s competitive pricing amid rising production costs in rival sourcing countries.
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