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Golden Goose’s $2,000 sneakers are a rare win for private equity

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Golden Goose’s ,000 sneakers are a rare win for private equity


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Bloomberg

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December 23, 2025

Golden Goose SpA is an Italian maker of distressed-looking sneakers that can set you back $2,000 for a crystal-studded pair. The more than €2.5 billion ($2.9 billion) price its private equity owner just snagged for the business is more opulent than shabby, too.

Customisation at Golden Goose – Golden Goose

Permira’s sale to HSG, known formerly as Sequoia Capital China, with Singapore’s Temasek as a minority investor, is one of the few landmark exits from a troubled vintage of buyout deals struck as the world was emerging from the pandemic, just before interest rates spiked. The transaction- twice the size of Prada SpA’s purchase of Versace earlier this year- also comes at a time of depressed demand for luxury goods. The valuation may be less extravagant than what was mooted in an abandoned initial public offering 18 months ago, but the PE firm has roughly doubled the company’s value in five years.

It acquired most of Golden Goose from Carlyle for €1.3 billion in 2020. Investors balked at a €3 billion enterprise value in that doomed Milan IPO effort last year, pointing to the troubles of Dr Martens, another footwear company previously owned by Permira. A slowing market for top-end goods didn’t help after three years of blockbuster growth.

And yet, the worst luxury downturn since the financial crisis (excluding the pandemic) has been good for Golden Goose. As comfortably off but not superrich consumers reined in their spending, megabrands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci went upmarket to follow the money.

As they concentrated on the 1%, they abandoned entry level products such as designer sneakers, leaving that market to Golden Goose. They also raised prices on shoes, handbags, and other core goods. The average cost of a basket of iconic luxury items in Europe rose by 54% between 2019 and the end of 2024, according to analysts at HSBC Holdings Plc.

For comparison, Golden Goose has lifted prices by just 4% over the past five years. That makes its sneakers, hardly a snip at an average price of €550 including customisation, look better value for money. The company increased sales from €266 million in 2020 to €655 million in 2024. Growth has continued this year, with sales up 13% in the first nine months and earnings before interest, tax, depreciation, and amortisation up 7%. Assuming similar momentum for the full year and a stable Ebitda margin, Golden Goose could generate about €740 million of sales in 2025 and close to €250 million of Ebitda.

The price equates to about 10 times Ebitda, a discount to Moncler SpA’s 13 times and Birkenstock Holding Plc’s 11 times, but still at least a doubling of Permira’s equity value. The firm will stay as a minority investor.

HSG previously backed Labubu maker Pop Mart International Group Ltd., TikTok owner ByteDance Co Ltd. and Chinese social media platform Red Note, so expansion will likely be focused on Asia. Golden Goose makes only 12% of its sales in the region, with just 7% in China, far less than most luxury brands. About half its sales are in the Americas; the rest in Europe and the Middle East.

There is clearly more to go for in China. With Gucci handbags and Chanel pumps no longer so prized, there is appetite for quirky items that connect emotionally with young shoppers. Take Crocs Inc.’s clogs, which can be customised with charms. They have become a hit with the country’s Gen Z consumers. That bodes well for Golden Goose.

Sneakers account for 90% of the company’s sales, so there’s room to diversify. Bags and clothing, which can also be personalised, are other opportunities in the US as well as China. Temasek’s experience as an investor in Stone Island, Ermenegildo Zegna NV, and Moncler chairman Remo Ruffini’s holding company should help. Ex-Gucci boss Marco Bizzarri will become chairman.

But hitting Golden Goose’s long-term target of lifting yearly sales to €1 billion won’t be easy. Although there are hopes that China’s luxury market is past the worst, any recovery will take time. And consumers there are more focused on sneakers that help them run faster or tackle more challenging hikes. Nike Inc. said recently that it was seen more as a casual fashion shoe brand, rather than a performance one, holding back sales and forcing it to discount prices.

Meanwhile, big luxury has decided it wants its middle-class customers back. Sneakers and similar goods will be key, bringing more competition.

If Golden Goose can successfully expand in China and become a broader lifestyle brand like Ralph Lauren Corp., its future will be far from scruffy. But given the travails of PE owners over the past couple of years, it’s not a bad time to take some money off the table.
 



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South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand

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South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand



In the Mumbai market, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged as the loom sector slowed production. Although spinning mills are looking to raise their selling rates, they have not found sufficient demand. A Mumbai-based trader told Fibre*Fashion, “Power and auto looms are facing limited fabric buying from the garment industry. Export prospects are still unclear. Domestic demand is also insufficient to support any price rise. Mills are comfortable with falling cotton prices, while buyers remain silent on yarn purchases.”

In Mumbai, ** carded yarn of warp and weft varieties were traded at ****;*,****,*** (~$**.****.**) and ****;*,****,*** per * kg (~$**.****.**) (excluding GST), respectively. Other prices include ** combed warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, ** carded weft at ****;*,****,*** (~$**.****.** per *.* kg, **/** carded warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, **/** carded warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg and **/** combed warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, according to trade sources.



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Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India

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Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India



The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding, which could allow near zero-tariff access for Bangladeshi garments to the American market subject to specific riders, has triggered debate within India’s textile and apparel industry. The real gains from zero tariffs may be limited due to high freight costs, longer lead times, and insufficient capacity in Bangladesh’s spinning and weaving/knitting sectors.

Bangladesh is already among the top suppliers of apparel to the US, particularly in basic knit and woven categories such as T-shirts, trousers and sweaters. A tariff advantage, even if modest, could sharpen its price competitiveness in high-volume, price-sensitive segments dominated by mass retailers.

The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding offering near zero-tariff access for garments has sparked debate in India’s textile sector.
While Bangladesh may gain a price edge in basic apparel, industry leaders believe the effective advantage could be limited to 2–3 per cent due to raw material dependence, capacity constraints and logistics costs.

However, Indian industry leaders argue that the net gain for Bangladesh may be restricted to around 2–3 per cent in effective competitiveness. They point to structural constraints, including Bangladesh’s heavy reliance on imported raw materials. A significant share of its fabric and yarn requirements is sourced from China and India, limiting flexibility in rules-of-origin compliance if strict value-addition conditions are attached to the deal.

Capacity limitations in spinning, weaving and man-made fibre processing are also seen as bottlenecks. While Bangladesh has built scale in garmenting, its upstream integration remains narrower than India’s diversified fibre-to-fashion base. Indian exporters emphasise that integrated supply chains offer advantages in speed, customisation and smaller batch production.

Logistics and lead times may further temper expectations. Distance from major US ports, coupled with infrastructure pressures and global shipping volatility, could offset part of the tariff benefit. In contrast, Indian suppliers have been investing in port connectivity, digital compliance systems and flexible production models to strengthen reliability.

Industry representatives also highlight that US buyers are increasingly factoring in sustainability, traceability and geopolitical risk. India’s growing adoption of renewable energy in textile clusters, compliance with global standards and broader product depth may help it retain strategic sourcing partnerships.

While some diversion of orders in basic categories cannot be ruled out, exporters believe the overall impact will be incremental rather than disruptive. The consensus view is that tariff preference alone is unlikely to override considerations of scale, compliance, diversification and long-term supply-chain resilience.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)



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US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole

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US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole



United States (US) Senator Bill Cassidy, along with Senator Sheldon Whitehouse, have introduced the ‘Last Sale Valuation Act,’ legislation aimed at closing a long-standing customs loophole that allows importers to underpay duties by declaring goods at artificially low values. The act would require tariffs to be assessed on the final sale value of imported goods rather than earlier transactions in complex overseas supply chains.

“This bill protects Louisiana workers and American businesses, ensuring loopholes don’t hold them back,” Dr Cassidy said in a press release.

US Senators Bill Cassidy and Sheldon Whitehouse have introduced the Last Sale Valuation Act to close the ‘first sale’ customs loophole that lets importers underpay duties.
The bipartisan bill would base tariffs on final sale values, strengthen US Customs enforcement and curb duty evasion.
Supporters say it will protect American manufacturers, workers and federal revenue.

If passed, the bipartisan measure would grant clearer enforcement authority to US Customs and Border Protection (CBP), streamline valuation reviews and reduce disputes over documentation, while curbing mis-invoicing and related-party pricing schemes linked to tariff evasion and illicit financial activity.

The legislation has drawn support from the American Compass, the Coalition for a Prosperous America and the Southern Shrimp Alliance.

“Cassidy’s ‘Last Sale Valuation Act’ strengthens customs valuation by assessing duties on the final transaction value of goods entering the US,” said Mark A DiPlacido, senior political economist at the American Compass, adding that closing the judicially created ‘first sale’ loophole would reduce duty evasion, simplify enforcement and increase customs revenue.

Jon Toomey, president of the Coalition for a Prosperous America, said the bill is “an important first step in restoring customs integrity,” ensuring duties are paid on the true commercial value of imported goods and helping level the playing field for American manufacturers and workers.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)



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