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In Paris, Europe’s fashion industry closes ranks against ultra-fast fashion

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In Paris, Europe’s fashion industry closes ranks against ultra-fast fashion


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September 17, 2025

A rare group photo. Some twenty* representatives of Europe’s textile and clothing sectors met in Paris on September 16 to sign a declaration committing their various bodies to a joint fight against ultra-fast fashion, and calling on national and European authorities to take action in the face of competition from Shein and Temu.

Representatives of the European federations signing the declaration – UFIMH

The signing took place in Villepinte, where the Première Vision Paris trade show runs from September 16 to 18. Behind the expected conviviality among industry peers, a palpable tension surfaced, as the professionals gathered shared a sense of urgency in the face of ultra-low-cost Chinese competition evading all oversight, including customs checks.

This feeling was reinforced by what already looked like a countermove: Shein France announced an agreement with a first French brand that very morning. The announcement had initially been scheduled for Monday, September 15.

In the text signed by the federations, the European institutions are urged to swiftly abolish the duty exemption for small non-EU parcels worth under 150 euros. The federations would also like to see a levy applied to these parcels to fund inspections, alongside VAT collection. The signatories further call for accelerated investigations and penalties under the Digital Services Act and the Digital Markets Act, and for the establishment of a dialogue with the Chinese authorities, whose sustainability objectives diverge from the practices of local platforms.

The document also calls on Member States to adopt national measures to curb, as in France, the marketing activities of ultra-fast-fashion players, while actively supporting textile and clothing companies investing in sustainability, quality and innovation. Consumers are not overlooked in this effort. The joint declaration invites them to favour sustainable products, and to support companies and brands taking part in the sustainable transition of the textile and clothing industry.

“The fashion industry can’t and won’t wait,” warned Pierre-François Le Louët, president of UFIMH (Union Française des Industries Mode & Habillement), who initiated the event.

“We need this battle to be waged country by country, for our federations to take this issue to legislators and the press, and, at EU level, to press the European Commission to move faster,” he continued, noting that France has already passed a “Fast Fashion Law” that now legally defines a business model deemed harmful.

Mario Jorge Machado, president of the European textile industry confederation Euratex, pointed out that this event will help the industry make its voice heard by the European Commission.

“We have to stop being naive and pretending not to see what’s happening to our market: these players are exploiting the fact that we play by the rules,” insisted the industry representative. \

“They take advantage of our brands as well as our consumers. You cannot destroy creativity and intellectual property in this way: it’s unacceptable. Our industry is known for its innovation, quality and design. So we have a lot to defend.”

Mario Jorge Machado (Euratex), Olivier Ducatillion (UIT) and Pierre-François Le Louët (UFIMH)
Mario Jorge Machado (Euratex), Olivier Ducatillion (UIT) and Pierre-François Le Louët (UFIMH) – MG/FNW

“Enough is enough,” said Olivier Ducatillion, president of UIT (Union Française des Industries Textiles).

“We are all suffering from this situation. Every time we propose solutions at the local level, we’re told it won’t work because these players will find workarounds at the European level. So we have to find new ways and set our sights wider. Today’s signature is not an end point; it’s a starting point.”

Representatives from the Italian, Portuguese and Dutch sectors took turns at the microphone, each reaffirming the need for action that is as swift as it is coordinated across the sector.

“There was no representative of the European Commission among us this morning, and that’s not down to the organisers,” noted Ralph Kamphöner, who represents the German Textil+Mode federation in Brussels.

The federations estimate that 4.5 billion parcels were imported into Europe last year via Chinese low-cost platforms, a volume that they say now accounts for 5% of clothing sales in Europe and 20% of online clothing sales.

*UFIMH (Union Française des Industries Mode & Habillement), UIT (Union Française des Industries Textiles), Euratex, ATP (Portugal), Chambre du Commerce de Services, Confindustria Moda (Italy), Finnish Textile & Fashion (Finland), TOK (Bulgaria), Modint (Netherlands), WKO (Austria), SEPEE (Greece), LATIA (Lithuania), DM&T (Denmark), Swiss Textiles (Switzerland), Consejo Intertextil Español (Spain), Fedustria (Belgium), Textil+Mode (Germany), ANIVEC-APIV (Portugal), TEKO (Sweden), Creamoda (Belgium), European Flax and Hemp Alliance, and PIOT (Poland).
 

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Kate Hawley wins Best Costume Design for ‘Frankenstein’ at Oscars 2026

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Kate Hawley wins Best Costume Design for ‘Frankenstein’ at Oscars 2026



New Zealand costume designer Kate Hawley won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for the film Frankenstein at the 2026 Oscars, recognising her elaborate and symbolic designs created for the gothic horror drama.

Hawley received the award from former Vogue editor Anna Wintour and actor Anne Hathaway, thanking the Academy and her creative team while describing costume designers as “artisans, alchemists and dream weavers.”

The film, directed by Guillermo del Toro and inspired by Mary Shelley’s classic novel Frankenstein; or, The Modern Prometheus (published in 1818), features richly layered costumes that blend Victorian aesthetics with gothic fantasy. Hawley’s designs employ colour symbolism and intricate textures to reinforce the narrative’s themes of life, death and obsession.

New Zealand costume designer Kate Hawley won the Best Costume Design award at the Academy Awards (Oscars) for the film Frankenstein.
Her elaborate, colour-driven costumes blend gothic aesthetics with Victorian influences, using symbolism and layered textures to enhance the film’s narrative and character development inspired by Mary Shelley’s classic novel.

Throughout the film, colour motifs, particularly shades of red, play a central storytelling role, symbolising the memory of Victor Frankenstein’s mother and recurring emotional themes. Victor’s wardrobe combines Romantic-era silhouettes with flamboyant touches inspired by figures such as David Bowie and Mick Jagger, reflecting the character’s rebellious personality.

Hawley also created intricate costumes for Elizabeth, portrayed by Mia Goth, incorporating botanical and insect-inspired patterns and jewellery elements that highlight the character’s connection to nature. The garments were built with multiple layers and textures to create a painterly, atmospheric visual style aligned with the film’s gothic tone.

The Oscar marks Hawley’s first Academy Award and follows earlier recognition for Frankenstein at the Costume Designers Guild Awards, where the film also won in the period film category.

With its dramatic silhouettes, symbolic colour palette and meticulous craftsmanship, the film’s costume design has been widely praised for helping shape the visual identity of del Toro’s ambitious adaptation of the classic tale.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)



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ICE cotton slips on weaker crude, profit booking

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ICE cotton slips on weaker crude, profit booking



ICE cotton futures eased yesterday as the decline in crude oil prices weighed on the natural fibre. Crude prices fell sharply amid easing geopolitical tensions, lowering the cost of producing polyester raw materials. Additionally, profit booking after recent highs in US cotton prices further pressured the market.

The most traded May 2026 contract settled at 67.18 cents per pound, down 0.13 cent. May contract has recorded cumulative loss of 159 points in the last four sessions.

ICE cotton futures declined as softer crude oil prices and profit booking weighed on the market.
The May 2026 contract settled at 67.18 cents/lb, extending recent losses.
Easing geopolitical tensions reduced polyester costs, while weak sentiment and lower trading volumes added pressure, though stable stocks and outlook limited the downside.

Total trading volume reported at 68,955 contracts, significantly lower than previous week’s average of 106,740 contracts.

The decline in crude oil prices, triggered by easing geopolitical tensions, weighed on cotton through its linkage with polyester prices. Comments by Donald Trump on ongoing US–Iran negotiations—despite Iran’s denial—along with reports of a five-day delay in planned US strikes on Iran’s energy facilities, eased fears of supply disruptions and pressured crude prices.

This development led to a sharp plunge in oil prices, which had been supported earlier due to Middle East tensions. Iran’s denial of talks helped limit further fall in crude oil, thereby capping downside in cotton and grains.

Market sentiment turned weak as prices slipped below recent highs, reflecting profit booking and external pressure.

Market analysts said that Trump’s statements supported equity markets and indirectly stabilised cotton sentiment.

According to BMI Research outlook, US cotton prices expected to average 68–70 cents per pound, supported by competitiveness against synthetic fibres and weaker 2026-27 crop outlook.

According to CFTC data, speculators added 37,050 contracts, shifting from net short to net long position of 3,561 contracts.

ICE deliverable stock (No.2 cotton) remained unchanged at 115,640 bales as of March 20, indicating stable supply availability

This morning (Indian Standard Time), ICE cotton for May 2026 was traded at 66.74 cents per pound (down 0.44 cent), cash cotton at 65.18 cents (down 0.13 cents), the July 2026 contract at 68.91 cents (down 0.40 cent), the October 2026 contract at 71.31 cents (down 0.13 cent), the December 2026 at 71.44 cents (down 0.40 cent) and the March 2027 contract at 72.51 cents (down 0.43 cent)). A few contracts remained at their previous closing levels, with no trading recorded so far today.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)



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Egypt’s RMG exports up 11% YoY in January 2026: AECE

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Egypt’s RMG exports up 11% YoY in January 2026: AECE



Exports in Egypt’s readymade garments (RMG) sector rose by 11 per cent year on year (YoY) to reach $299 million in January this year, according to the Apparel Export Council of Egypt (AECE).

Attributing the increase to robust global demand and the improving competitiveness of the sector, AECE chairperson Fadel Marzouk said the sector is targeting exports worth $4.4 billion by the end of this year. New investments are expected to further strengthen production and export capabilities, he noted.

Exports in Egypt’s readymade garments sector rose by 11 per cent YoY to reach $299 million in January, according to the Apparel Export Council of Egypt.
Shipments to the US rose by 16 per cent YoY to $118 million, while exports to the EU increased by 26 per cent YoY to $132 million in the month.
The sector is targeting exports worth $4.4 billion by the end of this year and $12 billion by 2031.

Shipments to the United States rose by 16 per cent YoY to $118 million, while exports to the European Union increased by 26 per cent YoY to $132 million in the month.

The council aims to boost exports by 22–25 per cent annually over the next five years, targeting shipments worth $12 billion by 2031, he was quoted as saying by domestic media outlets.

However, he cautioned that ongoing geopolitical tensions in the Middle East could pose challenges to production and export targets in the near term.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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