Fashion
Burberry: Rock ‘n’ roll revamped
Published
September 22, 2025
Burberry climaxed the five-day London Fashion Week Monday night with a cool and concise rock ‘n’ roll revival show that refreshed the marque with plenty of punch and polish.
Staged inside a tent in the northwest corner of Hyde Park, the show attracted a great front row: Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley; rapper Skepta and soccer legend, Ian Wright; Elton John and David Furnish; songstress Raye and soul singer, Olivia Dean.
Designer Daniel Lee’s intention was clear from the opening looks and chords: a bright waxed plaid trench dress worn with rugged boots on a model with Marianne Faithfull hair; followed by a waxed denim trench on a guy with a Hendrix afro. The soundtrack: a great booming remix of “Planet Caravan” by Black Sabbath. A band that Lee’s Harley Davidson-riding dad adored, and whose singer Ozzy Osborne recently passed this year.
Matter of fact, not a single ensemble would look out of place on a rock star: from the dolly bird white moulded A-line cocktails finished in chains and golden or turquoise macramé party sheathes for gals. To suede lace Lothario rocker trenches for guys, to some seriously crisp suits, cut with peg legs and snug jackets.
Lee kept the brand’s plaid theme going with great waxed parkas, girly pants or military boots. Leather posh hippie spy coats and bags with long fringes, all looked great as the Black Sabbath montage, including “You Won’t Change Me”, boomed out.
Like the collection, the palette had plenty of kick: acid green, salmon pink, bitter yellow; attention- seeking, but all the better for that.
“Summertime in the UK is so synonymous with music culture. This year felt extra special, with the Oasis tour, Beyoncé at Glastonbury, Kendrick was here. Every few days incredible music at festivals, and the Beatles movie is coming up. But it was a wonderful mod ballet at Saddler’s Well that first got me thinking how to celebrate that… Musicians have always had incredible style, and I wanted that exchange between music and fashion,” Lee explained backstage.
Underlining his goal is to make clothes that require skill to produce and evoke emotion. “It’s what separates luxury from great UK high street labels, skill and know-how and making historic techniques relevant for today,” Daniel added.
The overall look was perhaps not so path-breaking. Nonetheless collectively the collection – with its unexpected techniques – seemed very of the moment. Just right for today.
The show comes at a delicate moment for Burberry, the United Kingdom’s leading luxury brand, Burberry suffered a 15% decline in annual revenue in the 12 months ending March 29 to £2,461 million, while operating profit plummeted over 90% to a mere £26 million. This collection, however, seemed very commercially savvy, and timely.
The night before, the house unveiled its latest retail concept, Scarf Bar, whose debut space was inside Burberry’s giant Regent Street flagship.
“Scarf Bar offers 200 styles of Burberry scarves, from heritage to new creations. We plan to open 30 Scarf Bars in the next three months,” beamed CEO Joshua Schulman, who joined Burberry 15 months ago in July, 2024.
Offering a great selection of classic and punchier new plaids, made in a selection of materials: cashmere, mohair, wool and silk, or mixes of all four. Situated on the south side of the store, the Scarf Bar cleverly utilizes a slightly forgotten retail space that opens out on to Vigo Street. It’s also a smart example of Schulman – a veteran retailer with experience at department store giant Neiman Marcus.
Schulman, according to UK media reports, is the highest paid luxury executive in Britain. The 52-year-old Los Angeles-born Schulman, who was also previously CEO of Michael Kors, Coach and Jimmy Choo, reputedly has an annual salary of £2.6 million.
Since arriving, Schulman has ordered a reset, and in May unveiled plans to lay off 1,700 people or some 20% of its workforce, tough decisions greeted positively by shareholders. With the group’s share price rising 50% since his appointment.
Schulman has a major task on his hands, and a major upside if he is successful. Should he double Burberry’s share price in three years he will earn a £3.6 million bonus.
Post-show, both designer and CEO were in an ebullient mood, hosting a bash inside Chiltern Firehouse, the 26-suite London hotel famed as a celebrity hangout, which is also undergoing a restoration since burning wood from a pizza oven caused a huge fire back in February. The fact that Chiltern Firehouse would permit a soft pop-up for Burberry, a reminder of house’s unique position in Britain.
But tonight, far from being a “Bonfire of the Vanities”, Burberry suddenly began looking in pretty good shape.
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Fashion
Rupee at 95/$: What it means for India’s textile sector
A perfect storm behind the rupee slide
The current depreciation is not cyclical; it is geopolitical and structural.
The Indian rupee’s sharp fall is creating a dual impact, boosting export competitiveness while simultaneously inflating input, energy, and logistics costs.
MMF segments are most exposed, as import dependence erodes margin gains from currency depreciation.
Demand weakness in the US and EU limits the benefit of improved pricing, creating a cost–demand mismatch.
- Oil shock from Middle East conflict: Brent crude surged past $110–115/barrel, sharply increasing India’s import bill
- Foreign capital outflows: Over $19 billion exited Indian equities, pressuring the currency
- Strong US dollar and high interest rates: Capital shifting towards dollar assets
- Trade and geopolitical uncertainty: Weakening investor confidence and export outlook
Together, these forces have pushed the rupee to record lows, with risks of further depreciation if conditions persist.
The Indian rupee’s fall past ₹95 per US dollar marks its steepest annual decline in 14 years, representing a critical moment for the textile and apparel (T&A) industry, reshaping cost structures, export competitiveness, and sourcing strategies simultaneously. While a weaker rupee traditionally boosts exporters by improving rupee realisations on dollar-denominated sales and enhancing India’s price competitiveness against peers like Bangladesh and Vietnam, the current depreciation is occurring alongside a sharp rise in crude oil prices and global uncertainty, creating a far more complex operating environment.
The industry’s heavy dependence on imported inputs, particularly in the man-made fibre (MMF) value chain, including polyester, PTA, MEG, dyes, and specialty chemicals, means that the currency shock is directly translating into higher raw material costs. This is further compounded by rising energy and logistics expenses, as fuel-linked inflation drives up power tariffs, freight rates, and processing costs across spinning, dyeing, and finishing segments. As a result, the initial export margin gains are already being diluted, especially for MMF-based manufacturers and vertically integrated players with significant import exposure.
At the same time, rupee volatility is intensifying working capital pressures across the value chain. Higher input costs are inflating inventory values, while fluctuating exchange rates are making export realisations less predictable and increasing the cost of hedging. For small and mid-sized enterprises, this could tighten liquidity cycles and increase dependence on short-term financing.
On the demand side, the situation remains equally challenging: key export markets such as the US and EU are grappling with inflation, cautious consumer spending, and elevated retail inventories, limiting order visibility despite improved pricing competitiveness from India. This creates a structural paradox where Indian suppliers are more cost-effective globally yet face subdued demand and heightened price resistance from international buyers.
Segment-wise, cotton textiles stand relatively insulated due to lower import dependency, whereas MMF and synthetic segments face the sharpest cost pressures, and garment exporters operate in a narrow margin band between currency gains and demand weakness.
In response, the industry is already undergoing strategic recalibration. Manufacturers are gradually shifting towards cotton and blended products to reduce exposure to volatile petrochemical inputs, while also strengthening foreign exchange risk management through increased hedging. There is a renewed push towards supply chain localisation, particularly for chemicals and trims, alongside efforts to renegotiate pricing with global buyers though with limited success in a demand-constrained environment.
Looking ahead, much will depend on the trajectory of crude oil prices, the potential for further rupee depreciation towards the ₹100/$ mark, and the effectiveness of policy interventions in stabilising currency markets. Ultimately, the rupee’s sharp fall is proving to be a double-edged sword for the T&A sector: offering short-term export advantages, but simultaneously accelerating cost inflation and exposing structural vulnerabilities, thereby forcing companies to prioritise efficiency, agility, and financial discipline in an increasingly volatile global trade landscape.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DL)
Fashion
China’s Anta Sports posts record $11.62 bn revenue in 2025
The operating profit increased by 15 per cent to RMB 19.09 billion (~$2.77 billion), while operating margin improved to 23.8 per cent, reflecting strong operational efficiency. Profit attributable to shareholders rose 13.9 per cent to RMB 13.59 billion, excluding one-off gains related to the Amer Sports listing.
Anta Sports has reported revenue of RMB 80.22 billion (~$11.62 billion) in 2025, up 13.3 per cent, strengthening its China market leadership with a 21.8 per cent share.
Operating profit rose 15 per cent, supported by margin improvement and strong growth across brands, especially Fila and Descente.
Solid cash flow, rising R&D investment, and ESG progress further reinforced its global top three position.
The company further expanded its domestic dominance, achieving an estimated market share of around 21.8 per cent, according to industry data. The company’s core ANTA brand generated revenue of RMB 34.75 billion, up 3.7 per cent, with operating profit reaching RMB 7.21 billion, maintaining steady growth, Anta Sports said in a press release.
Fila continued to outperform within the premium sports fashion segment, with revenue increasing 6.9 per cent to RMB 28.47 billion and operating profit rising 10.1 per cent to RMB 7.42 billion. Meanwhile, other brands delivered standout growth, with revenue surging 59.2 per cent to RMB 17 billion and operating profit climbing 55.3 per cent to RMB 4.74 billion. Notably, Descente’s retail sales surpassed RMB 10 billion for the first time.
The group’s financial position remained strong, with free cash flow of RMB 16.11 billion and a net cash position of approximately RMB 31.72 billion at year-end, underscoring its balance sheet strength and liquidity.
Anta also continued to invest in long-term capabilities. Research and development spending rose to RMB 2.2 billion, supported by the rollout of its AI365 strategy aimed at integrating artificial intelligence across the value chain. The company expanded its workforce to over 69,100 employees and supported nearly 300,000 direct and indirect jobs.
On the sustainability front, Anta achieved inclusion in the Hang Seng ESG 50 Index and improved its MSCI ESG rating to ‘AA’. Its total charitable contributions exceeded RMB 800 million in 2025, taking cumulative donations beyond RMB 3.5 billion.
The company’s strong financial and operational performance highlights its ability to scale profitably while investing in innovation, sustainability and brand equity, further consolidating its leadership in China’s highly competitive sportswear market.
Ding Shizhong, executive director and board chairman of Anta Sports, said, “In 2025, amid a complex and rapidly changing environment, we once again delivered resilient growth by staying true to our single focus, multi-brand, globalization strategy. Each of our brands delivered differentiated, high-quality growth. Growth is the best corporate culture, but it is not about simple expansion of scale.”
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
UK commits $1.25 mn to trade facilitation programme for 2026–29
The programme is jointly implemented by UN Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the World Customs Organization and UK Customs.
The UK has committed around $1.25 million in funding for the ‘Accelerate Trade Facilitation’ programme for the 2026-2029 period.
The programme is jointly implemented by UNCTAD, the World Customs Organization and UK Customs.
The latest phase will expand the programme’s capacity-building activities and introduce the Reform Tracker tool to up to three additional countries.
For more than a decade, the programme has supported over 30 economies to speed up the movement of goods and strengthen cooperation between the public and private sectors.
“We will build on the strong and sustained impact achieved by partner countries over the last 11 years of the programme, strengthening national trade facilitation committees and driving practical, lasting reforms that make trade simpler, faster and more inclusive while supporting economic growth,” said Megan Shaw, deputy director of international customs and border engagement at UK Customs in an UNCTAD release.
The programme will continue to place national trade facilitation committees (NTFCs) at the core of its work. NTFCs serve as coordination platforms where government agencies and businesses identify bottlenecks, agree on priorities and advance trade facilitation reforms.
UNCTAD has supported them through specialised training, including via its trade facilitation e-learning platform, and practical tools such as the Reform Tracker. The tool helps countries monitor progress on trade facilitation reforms and keep society-wide collaborators aligned.
“These reforms contribute to a trading environment that is faster, cheaper, more transparent and more predictable—conditions that help businesses compete and grow,” said Angel Gonzalez Sanz, officer-in-charge of UNCTAD’s division on technology and logistics.
The 2026-2029 phase will expand the programme’s capacity-building activities and introduce the Reform Tracker to up to three additional countries.
These efforts will help deepen digitalisation and improve coordination between border agencies—measures crucial to reducing costs and processing times for traders.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
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