Fashion
ANFAO: ‘Nine-month eyewear exports down 3% and improving; mission to Brazil and New York in 2028’
Published
December 3, 2025
Italian eyewear is gearing up for the next edition of Mido, yet the impact of U.S. tariffs is being felt and recovery has been pushed back to 2026, expected to be driven by new markets. As Lorraine Berton, president of the trade association ANFAO, tells FashionNetwork.com , the organisation plans to return to New York with an exhibition format, while she reveals details of DaTe’s upcoming stop in Naples.
FashionNetwork: What will Mido 2026 look like?
L.B: The next edition has been brought forward and will run from January 31 to February 2. The date change was not easy, but exhibitors have confirmed their attendance: 1,200 in total, including 140 new companies, from 160 countries. We will introduce many new elements compared with 2025, while maintaining our customary style and elegance. There will be a completely redesigned central piazza and 20 standout events in The Vision Stage area. The exhibition launched in Venice, “The Lens of Time”, will also come to the fair, for which we have devised a striking installation.
FN: What are the economic forecasts for the industry?
L.B: We will have the third-quarter data in the second half of December. It has been a challenging year, but conditions are stabilising. The U.S. has hit us hardest: down 20% in the first half, improving to down 15% in the most recent quarter. The shock of the tariffs has now been absorbed, but we will close in negative territory and will have to wait until next year for the upturn. Globally, exports are down 3% in the first nine months, with Europe holding up extremely well, South America growing, and other markets opening up.
FN: How is internationalisation progressing?
L.B: We face another transitional spring. As after Covid, I expect a lively rebound. The industry is undergoing a profound phase of transformation that continues to have the Belluno district at its epicentre. It is a difficult time for smaller companies, but we have taken back the reins of internationalisation. We are supporting our companies as they expand beyond Italy. We have also decided to invest in small businesses, because without the small, the large loses its identity.
FN:What countries are you focusing on?
L.B: Brazil will be a priority market for the future. Next year we will undertake a mission to the country, which will become increasingly important thanks to the EU-Mercosur agreement. At present we face tariffs of between 14% and 18%. Eliminating them will ease entry into a still complex market, where eyewear that leaves Italy at €50 reaches €100.
FN: What are your plans for New York?
L.B: We hope to return to Vision Expo East from 2028, once a year. For now, we remain in Orlando. We are working on it: it is an ambitious project and major investments are at stake. People in the U.S. know that we make the most beautiful eyewear. But we certainly need to communicate more and better. And that is also our responsibility as an association.
FN: Where will the next edition of DaTe be?
L.B: Following Riccione (Cocoricò), the fair will stop in Naples, September 12–14, at the Teatro Salone Margherita, in the Galleria Umberto I. The travelling format will continue and will take in the whole of Italy. We are working exceptionally well with ICE. I would like to thank president Zoppas, who is giving us the opportunity to invest in the sector and who believes in my team. He understands that we are serious and that we do not squander resources.
FN: Why invest in the district?
L.B: The eyewear district is the Belluno district, but in a broader sense it includes the provinces of Milan, Varese, Reggio Emilia and central Italy. It is a united and resilient district founded on the respect shown by the big players towards the smaller ones. With major players such as Marcolin, Thélios, Safilo and Luxottica, I have a continuous exchange of ideas that makes us all stronger at a difficult time. This is the true strength of the sector, which carries Made in Italy and our manufacturing excellence around the world, globally recognised and rewarding for us.
FN: Upcoming institutional commitments?
L.B: ANFAO is attending two industry roundtables: one for the protection of Made in Italy and one at the ministry on protection and counterfeiting. These are commitments we share with the fashion and accessories industry. This coexistence is not straightforward, because it has to take into account the needs of different sectors and production chains, including differing views on the tools to protect product originality and combat counterfeiting.
FN: What is the leadership team working on?
L.B: ANFAO has shown it can be close to its members. There is a team of vice presidents doing an extraordinary job. I want to thank Sabrina Paulon, who took my place on the technical committee for the contract renewal. I wanted changes within ANFAO, and I am very happy because today we have staff, both young and more experienced, who have shown they can embrace change with a youthful mindset. Two years have passed, but I believe I can say that we have a team that works in synergy inside and outside the association, and that is the greatest satisfaction for me. We will continue to deliver more and more.
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Fashion
Cotton innovation to take centre stage at Bremen conference 2026
Cotton can do more – a lot more. Cutting-edge textiles and high-tech products made from 100% cotton prove just how power-fully performance and sustainability can come together. That very surge of innovation is front and centre at the 38th Bremen Cotton Conference, taking place March 25–27, 2026, at Bremen’s Parliament on the historic market square – culminating in a bold and dedicated closing session on Friday. In the spotlight: per-formance upgrades for pure cotton, smart strategies for circular textile waste solu-tions, and pioneering concepts for demanding technical applications. From natural fi-bre–reinforced composites to highly effective flame-retardant solutions, cotton steps out of the closet and shows the future potential woven into every fibre.
The 38th Bremen Cotton Conference, set for March 25–27, 2026, will spotlight cotton’s transformation into a high-performance, sustainable material.
Experts will present innovations in cotton functionalisation, circular textile waste conversion, natural fibre composites and halogen-free flame-retardant systems, highlighting cotton’s expanding role in advanced technical applications.
Cotton is so much more than just a T-shirt. As a renewable resource, it’s biodegrada-ble, free from microplastics, naturally breathable, and delivers comfort you can actually feel. But this fibre has long since broken free from the fashion rack. Cotton is evolving into a versatile high-tech material.
Thanks to advanced finishing technologies, functional coatings, innovative hybrid yarns, and bio-based material blends, its range of applications is expanding fast – far beyond traditional textiles. For companies, that means real opportunity: replacing fos-sil-based resources with sustainable alternatives, staying ahead of regulatory de-mands, and unlocking new high-performance markets. Cotton is transforming from a natural product into a true engine of innovation.
Cotton Textile Waste as a Resource
Future-ready innovation means thinking across the entire product lifecycle. Production scraps, offcuts, and post-consumer textiles are not just a growing waste problem — they are also a valuable and largely untapped resource. In his presentation, Dr. Mat-thew Farrell of Cotton Incorporated (USA) demonstrates how cotton textile waste can be converted into glucose. Since these materials consist primarily of cellulose — aside from dyes and finishes — they can be broken down into their sugar building blocks through hydrolysis.* The resulting glucose serves as a bio-based platform feedstock for a wide range of value-added products. Drawing on two processes developed in recent years, Farrell illustrates how used cotton textiles can be integrated into viable circular economy concepts.
* Note: During hydrolysis, cellulose chains are broken down into glucose using water — often supported by acids or enzymes.
Natural Fibre Systems and Flame Retardancy
At the same time, the market for natural fibre-reinforced composites is expanding rap-idly, as industry and research increasingly turn to renewable, lightweight, and re-source-efficient materials. Natural fibres generally offer a lower carbon footprint than glass or carbon fibre reinforcements and are especially attractive for applications driven by clear sustainability targets. However, fire performance presents specific chal-lenges. As plant-based fibres are inherently combustible, natural fibre composites of-ten exhibit less favourable fire behaviour than their glass- or carbon-fibre-reinforced counterparts. Meanwhile, regulatory and safety requirements are becoming more strin-gent: beyond flammability itself, parameters such as heat release rate, smoke devel-opment, and smoke toxicity are moving into sharper focus.
At the Bremen conference, Dr. Thomas Mayer-Gall from the German Institutes of Tex-tile and Fibre Research North-West (DTNW), Krefeld, will present newly developed, halogen-free flame-retardant systems from DTNW research designed for these de-manding applications.
More Performance from 100% Cotton
Complementing the circularity perspective, Seth Winner of Cotton Incorporated turns the spotlight on enhancing the performance of textiles made from pure cotton. The goal: to elevate 100% cotton fabrics with targeted functional upgrades — improving breathability, thermal insulation, and stretch, among other properties.
He will present innovative approaches that enable the precise functionalization of cot-ton textiles, using both new and established technologies to unlock the full perfor-mance potential of pure cotton.
Innovation Meets Circularity
Against the backdrop of rising demands for resource efficiency, circular economy so-lutions, and product safety, the closing session of the Bremen Cotton Conference sends a strong message. It delivers fresh, hands-on impulses for manufacturers, fin-ishers, and developers — and showcases the remarkable innovative power of cotton.
Cotton is no longer just a traditional apparel fibre. It is evolving into a high-performance raw material platform for technical and sustainable applications — with strategic rele-vance for the textile and materials industries of tomorrow.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (MS)
Fashion
Turkiye’s apparel exports drop 6% to $16.3 bn in 2025
Exports of knitted and crocheted garments (HS Chapter **) fell *.* per cent to $*.*** billion from $**.*** billion a year earlier, as retailers trimmed replenishment volumes. Woven apparel and accessories (HS Chapter **) recorded a steeper fall of *.* per cent to $*.*** billion, compared with $*.*** billion in ****, reflecting weaker demand for higher-value fashion categories and formalwear.
December **** data signalled a slower contraction relative to the annual trend. Knitted and crocheted apparel exports rose *.* per cent year on year to $***.*** million from $***.*** million in December ****, supported by seasonal restocking. In contrast, non-knitted apparel declined *.* per cent to $***.*** million from $***.*** million. Combined shipments under HS ** and HS ** edged down *.** per cent to $*.*** billion.
Fashion
The new economics of fashion: Trust, longevity and price discipline
Fashion demand in 2026 remains intact but more selective, with consumers spending cautiously and prioritising value, durability and versatility.
Intentional purchasing and promotion sensitivity are reshaping pricing dynamics and margin structures.
Polarised consumer behaviour is pushing brands to rebuild trust, justify full price and align sustainability with longevity.
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