Fashion
Bangladesh’s BGMEA makes unit price entry mandatory for UD certificate
A UD certificate is a key customs document authorising the use of duty-free imported raw materials for manufacturing export-oriented garments. It is required for customs clearance, export processes and trade preferences and cash incentives.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association recently made it mandatory for factories to provide the unit price of imported raw materials and readymade garments produced for export to get utilisation declaration (UD) certificates.
The move, to be implemented from September 1, is aimed at ensuring transparency and accurate valuation in the industry.
The move is aimed at ensuring transparency and accurate valuation in the industry.
A BGMEA circular instructed member factories to include the information to receive the UD certificates from the trade body from September 1.
“To sustain the competitiveness of the locally produced exportable garment items in the international market and to maintain the trust of foreign buyers, it is essential to accurately declare the unit price of imported raw materials and the corresponding exportable garments produced in BGMEA member factories,” read the circular.
The notice said both global buyers and domestic regulators, including the National Board of Revenue, have raised questions about transparency and accurate value addition by the industry in the absence of unit price, according to domestic media outlets.
Both BGMEA and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) issue UD certificates to their members against each work order, detailing exporter, importer and raw material information.
Around 1800 member factories receive UD certificates from BGMEA every month.
Local garment items’ value addition remained almost static between 60 per cent and 64 per cent from fiscals 2012-13 to 2018-19, according to Bangladesh Bank data.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Published
October 18, 2025
Recognised as a protected geographical indication in France, Dentelle de Calais-Caudry says it has begun the process of becoming a European geographical indication to better protect its identity against low-grade counterfeits.
From December 1, the European Union will introduce a simplified procedure under Regulation 2024/1143, which now governs geographical indications and protected designations of origin across its Member States.
Crucially, Europe is now extending a protection regime to artisanal, manufactured, and industrial products, which was previously reserved for agricultural produce, foodstuffs, and spirits.
“The Dentelliers de Calais-Caudry have already applied to the INPI, which is responsible for forwarding their application to the EUIPO (European Union Intellectual Property Office), so that their geographical indication can be recognised throughout the European Union”, say the Calais and Caudry lacemakers.
Dentelle de Calais-Caudry became a regulated geographical indication in France at the beginning of 2024. It took the local industry’s representatives five years to achieve this goal, which aims to distinguish and protect know-how that is more than two centuries old, and relies on the use of imposing, complex Leavers looms, which lend their name to the lace they produce. In 1958, the “Dentelle de Calais” label was launched, and in 2015 it became “Dentelle de Calais-Caudry”, to include manufacturers from the Caudry area.
“Regularly confronted with very poor-quality counterfeits that damage their image and sales, the lacemakers of Calais-Caudry will, by obtaining this European geographical indication, benefit from legal protection across the 27 countries of the Union”, says the label, which hopes that “this guarantee of authenticity and quality, which will reassure all designers, stylists and lovers of Calais-Caudry lace, will help safeguard this know-how, these ‘passion’ trades, and accelerate international development.”
Today, Calais-Caudry lace is produced in Calais by Codentel, Cosetex, Noyon (Darquer), and Sophie Hallette / Riechers Marescot, which also operates in Caudry. The town is also home to Beauvillain Davoine, Darquer & Méry, Dentelles André Laude, Dentelles MC, Jean Bracq, and Solstiss.
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The new directive aims to cut waste, reduce environmental damage, and strengthen the EU’s economic resilience by driving sustainable innovation and decreasing reliance on raw materials. It aligns with the EU’s Competitiveness Compass and Strategic Agenda for 2024–29, European Commission said in a press release.
The European Union’s revised Waste Framework Directive came into effect yesterday, establishing unified rules for EPR in textiles and setting binding targets to reduce food waste.
Aimed at cutting waste and boosting circularity, it requires Member States to set up EPR schemes, reduce food waste by up to 30 per cent by 2030, and promote eco-modulated fees, and sustainable design.
The EU’s textile and clothing industry remains an economic powerhouse, generating €170 billion (~$198.9 billion) in 2023 and employing 1.3 million people across nearly 197,000 companies. Yet, it is also one of the most resource-intensive sectors, ranking third in water and land use impact and fifth in raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019 alone, the EU generated 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only one-fifth separately collected for reuse or recycling.
To address these challenges, the revised directive introduces two major sets of measures to promote circularity and competitiveness:
- Under mandatory EPR schemes, each Member State must establish a system requiring producers of textiles and footwear to pay fees for every product placed on the market. These funds will finance collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal operations. The fees will also support consumer awareness campaigns and R&D in sustainable design and waste prevention. EPR fees will vary according to sustainability criteria under the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)—a principle known as eco-modulation. Producers will pay less for durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products, incentivising circular design.
- The directive also sets new rules for managing used textiles, ensuring that all separately collected textiles are classified as waste to prevent false reuse labelling and illegal exports. Unsorted textile waste will fall under the Waste Shipment Regulation.
Member States have 20 months to transpose the directive into national law and 30 months to set up their textile and footwear EPR schemes. Competent authorities must be designated by January 17, 2026, and updated food waste prevention plans finalised by October 17, 2027.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
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