Elisabetta Franchi, boss and designer of the eponymous Italian ready-to-wear label owned by Betty Blue Spa, talked about the industry at the 30th Pambianco Fashion Summit in Milan. “There’s so much confusion in the fashion world today,” she said. “Creative directors are hopping about like popcorn. Labels are putting their brand identity at risk. When customers enter a store, they no longer know what they’re buying. Some CEOs have no clue what a button or a sewing machine is. They are finance people who have only eyes for data,” added Franchi.

The Bologna-based businesswoman has taken back control of her label after parting ways with Marco Bizzarri (who had bought a stake about two years ago) and the departure of its CEO Gabriele Maggio. “Marco and I are like twins separated at birth. We’ve always had a very similar way of thinking. But at some point, the Betty Blue machine was starting to slow down. His way of working was no longer in sync with my reactivity. I took back full control to drive the company at a thousand miles per hour. Speed is my strength,” said Franchi.

In fiscal 2024, Elisabetta Franchi generated a revenue of €171 million, and EBITDA of €40 million. “Revenue is not the key. I’m not competing with anyone. I try to work properly, with an old-fashioned approach. A healthy company must be liquid. In the last decade, we’ve doubled [our revenue] and we’ve always self-financed, without bank loans. EBITDA is the metric to watch, if it’s low, I’ve done badly,” said Franchi.

Elisabetta Franchi generates 90% of sales through ready-to-wear, without product licenses (except for childrenswear) or accessories. “These are the growth drivers we’re working on,” said Franchi. “I’ve always pushed to realise one dream, with great consistency and true, powerful storytelling. Women who come into my stores always enjoy the same experience. Some labels decided to increase prices because they were no longer growing. Instead, we’ve made no changes, thanks also to our strategic positioning,” she added.

Retail-wise, in 2025 Elisabetta Franchi opened its first US store in Miami. “In February 2026, it will be Houston’s turn. The USA is very rewarding, but one must work slowly and sensibly there. We also have South America in our sights. E-tail accounts for a 14% share of our revenue, and we don’t just sell t-shirts online, but jackets and shirts too,” said Franchi.

For the future, “I see a company that can do without me, but I’ll be working to the very last. In five years I see myself far away, maybe on my own. Fashion is a business that makes you question yourself every six months. I’m lucky to have a winning team, otherwise I wouldn’t still be here after 30 years,” concluded Franchi.