Fashion
Elsewhere in LFW: Rory William Docherty, AK/OK Anamika Khanna
Published
September 23, 2025
Two designers with careers on slow but steady boils, both working far distant from London -Rory William Docherty and Anamika Khanna from India- helped make exotic and inspiring additions to the last day of London Fashion Week.
Rory William Docherty: Rock Pools and Sea Anemones
One of London’s most beautiful debuts was by Rory William Docherty, who has previously shown down under in Australia and New Zealand.
Of Scottish origin, Rory has divided his time between the UK and down under over the last 20 years, though it was a return to nature in New Zealand which provided the artistic impetus to this slow fashion collection.
The finest looks were his own bold blotchy abstract prints seen in some great dresses, elongated jackets, billowing jumpsuits and little skirts. Though the prints turned out to be culled from nature.
“They were based around a camping trip. That type of reset you need after a season. When I escape into nature and need air. So, I was looking at the landscape – and at rock pools,” explained Docherty.
Looking at nature also led to incorporating sea anemones growing on rocks as jewelry. Hand blown black glass beads seen on super sandals and bag straps. Even blown up into giant bags or exploded into a patent leather sculptural skirt.
Rory’s other explosion was the collar, which splayed out like a puritan on acid, and sometimes grew into a hood. The bold shapes, arty sense of volume and languid mood meant that the clothes recalled the great Japanese designers who have shown in Paris. That said, this was a powerful personal statement by Docherty, a designer and brand on a sure upward curve.
“Knowing that no one here would have heard of me before I thought it was really important to focus on my signature looks, and DNA,” explained 46-year-old Docherty. A strategy which this collection clearly showed had worked.
AK/OK Anamika Khanna: Toy synergy
To Hamley’s mid-afternoon Monday to catch the runway debut of the ready-to-wear collection AK/OK Anamika Khanna, a new line that debuted in Saks last year.
Khanna has been presenting couture collections for two decades in India, but this marked the first Western unveiling of her fresh RTW division AK/OK Anamika Khanna.
The project is bankrolled by the giant Indian conglomerate of Reliance, which also acquired Hamleys in February for some £70 million.
Using the synergy, Reliance closed off the upper floors of Hamley’s, as the cast prowled around the toy store’s racetrack floor, amid Star Wars figurines, Marvin’s Magic lights and Gravity Defying mini drones.
On each seat sat a gift of an intriguing cloth emblem, hand embroidered for 20 hours, which set the scene. For this was a collection all about ravishing adornment.
Opening with ivory silk jackets, chiffon shirts and silk dhotis finished with floral prints; or saucy corsets embellished with fabric flowers. Most looks anchored by very cool lace boxing boots.
Showing plenty of range, she cut striking suits and redingotes in silvery silks finished with metallic embroidery or chain mail patches. Adding the odd metallic finish to jeans to toughen the look.
To Western eyes, Indian designers can often come across as a tad demure. Not Anamika, whose love of transparency was apparent.
Emphasizing a whole boudoir mood, with bloomers, sheer chiffon blouses, cami-knickers and silver sequin bras. Amanika’s girls clearly want to have lots of fun, including Bollywood meg star Sonam Kappor, who sat front row. Hopefully her 34.3 million followers will soon she her in this collection, a definite hit from first to last look.
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Fashion
UGG boots that last 15 years: Inside Deckers’ strategy
Kenneth Straka, Senior Product Development Manager at Deckers Outdoor Corporation, said that Deckers places strong emphasis on sustainability, noting that founder John Luke often reminded the team that the French word for sustainability is durability. This idea aligned with discussions at the Global Fashion Summit, where the theme centred on “Building Resilient Futures” in the sustainable and circular economy.
Durability has helped UGG become one of the most sought-after boot brands and a key sales driver for Deckers, alongside its sportswear brand Hoka. “One of the things we think about in terms of circularity is making products that last a long time and remain with consumers throughout their lives. We want products that consumers can wear for ** or ** years,” Straka said in an interview with Fibre*Fashion on the sidelines of the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen.
Fashion
South India cotton yarn sees mixed trend, prices up in Tiruppur
In the Tiruppur market, cotton yarn prices increased by ****;*–* per kg in this week despite sluggish local demand. Prices were quoted higher because of limited supply from spinning mills. A trader from the Tiruppur market told Fibre*Fashion, “Domestic demand remained limited, but spinning mills are not relying solely on the domestic market for cotton yarn sales. They are focusing more on exports, where demand and prices remain attractive. Mills have raised yarn prices following higher ICE cotton prices and the CCI’s increase in auction base prices, although ICE cotton has witnessed a sharp decline over the past two days.”
In Tiruppur, knitting cotton yarn prices were noted as: ** count combed cotton yarn at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg (excluding GST), ** count combed cotton yarn at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, ** count combed cotton yarn at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, ** count carded cotton yarn at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, ** count carded cotton yarn at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, and ** count carded cotton yarn at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg.
Fashion
RMG trade bodies seek policy support from Bangladesh PM
BGMEA president Mahmud Hasan Khan said they discussed export diversification within the garment sector, reopening of closed factories and many factories’ struggle for survival.
Representatives of two top Bangladesh garment trade bodies recently met PM Tarique Rahman and urged him to ensure uninterrupted power and energy supply, quick release of export receipts from banks, reopening of closed factories and easing of customs regulations.
BKMEA raised concerns about misuse of the bond facility and urged action against violators of bond licences.
104 factories have informed the BGMEA about their closure till now, Khan said. BGMEA will scrutinise these cases to identify the genuine reasons for the closures.
Following the scrutiny, the association will send recommendations for reopening these factories, as the government is working to open a Tk 200-billion fund to assist their revival.
BKMEA president Mohammad Hatem said some 400 factories closed in the last three years—nearly 300 of them due to non-cooperation from banks. He said banks release export receipts to exporters’ lien accounts, but delays in payment often force loans into default, leaving exporters unable to pay suppliers on time.
He also demanded uninterrupted supply of power and gas to industrial units as recent shortages of fuel oil have severely affected productivity, according to domestic media ooutlets.
Hatem raised concerns about misuse of the bond facility and urged action against violators of bond licences.
He also called for easing the rules of the National Board of Revenue, particularly customs procedures, to smoothen export and import processes and reduce lead times.
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