Fashion
EU–Indonesia CEPA to unlock $352 mn for European sports industry: FESI
The CEPA will significantly boost trade and investment flows between the EU and Indonesia, unlocking new opportunities across sectors, and particularly for the sporting goods industry. It will eliminate tariffs, streamline customs procedures, increase regulatory cooperation, and support more sustainable and resilient supply chains.
FESI has welcomed the EU–Indonesia CEPA, expected to unlock €300 million (~$352.4 million) annually for the sporting goods industry.
The deal eliminates tariffs, streamlines customs, and boosts trade and supply chain resilience.
Backed by Adidas, Nike, and Puma, FESI’s advocacy since 2016 helped shape the agreement, now awaiting ratification to strengthen EU–ASEAN ties.
Indonesia is a key manufacturing hub for the sporting goods industry, home to numerous production facilities that supply European and global markets. European brands will benefit from greater market access and certainty, while Indonesian suppliers, including thousands of small and medium-sized enterprises, will see expanded opportunities to connect with European consumers.
Since 2016, FESI has actively supported the EU–Indonesia CEPA through high-level engagement and advocacy. Key milestones include meetings at the EU-ASEAN Summit in 2022, a 2023 delegation to Jakarta with president Neil Narriman, a 2024 discussion with vice trade minister Dr. Jerry Sambuaga, and a pivotal 2025 meeting in Brussels before the agreement’s conclusion, FESI said in a release.
“We recognise the important role played by the European Commission in moving this agreement forward and advancing the EU’s broader trade agenda. At the same time, FESI has been a tireless advocate for this partnership from day one, and we are proud to see our industry’s united voice help shape a modern, strategic trade policy with one of ASEAN’s most dynamic economies,” said Youri Mercier Richkine, FESI deputy secretary general.
These efforts, backed by long-standing support of FESI member companies such as Adidas, Nike, and Puma, have been essential to securing a deal that delivers tangible, practical benefits for business.
As the EU–Indonesia CEPA moves into its final phase, FESI calls on the EU Member States and the European Parliament to swiftly ratify the agreement to reinforce the EU’s commitment to a progressive, open, and rules-based trade agenda.
Amid growing trade tensions and global fragmentation, the CEPA sends a clear signal that the EU remains a reliable, forward-looking partner for fast-growing Indo-Pacific economies. The agreement not only unlocks new opportunities for European companies and workers, it also advances the EU’s policy priorities, as outlined in President Ursula von der Leyen’s 2024 political guidelines, including deeper engagement in the Indo-Pacific and stronger cooperation with ASEAN.
“The EU–Indonesia CEPA is a landmark step for our industry and one of the key priorities of my mandate at FESI. Concluding this agreement as my presidency comes to an end is both symbolic and a lasting legacy for our sector. Once again, we are also strengthening our ties with the ASEAN region, further deepening mutually beneficial partnerships that open new opportunities for our industry and our partners alike,” Neil Narriman, FESI president, said.
“We extend our sincere appreciation to the Indonesian government and the European Commission for achieving this landmark agreement. This milestone not only acknowledges Indonesia’s role as a global manufacturing leader but also promotes active lifestyles across Europe by eliminating tariffs on a wide range of sporting goods. The agreement has the potential to foster sustainable growth, attract investment, and enhance supply chain resilience across both regions”, commented Manuel Pauser, vice president global government & community affairs at Adidas, vice-president of FESI and vice-chair of FESI Trade Preferences Task Force.
“The EU–Indonesia CEPA is not only an important trade agreement for our industry, workers and consumers, but also a strong signal to the rest of the world that Indonesia and the EU can champion rules-based trade in a challenging trading landscape,” said Ingrid van Laerhoven, director trade & customs EMEA, government and public affairs at Nike, and chair of the FESI Trade Committee.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (HU)
In Ludhiana, cotton yarn prices were steady. The ongoing payment crisis is reducing the buying capacity of the consumer industry. A trader from Ludhiana told Fibre*Fashion, “The textile value chain is burdened with huge stocks, as the festival season has not absorbed large quantities of raw material. These stocks have blocked working capital, further reducing mills’ buying capacity.”
In Ludhiana, ** count cotton combed yarn was sold at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg (inclusive of GST); ** and ** count combed yarn were traded at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg and ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, respectively; and carded yarn of ** count was noted at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg today, according to trade sources.
The achievement marked a step forward in replacing harmful chemicals used in functional textiles with bio-based, recyclable alternatives. However, progress now hinges on securing a stable supply of high-quality lignin. The absence of standardisation across the EU complicates sourcing, as lignin properties vary depending on extraction processes, and several specialised suppliers have exited the market, the European Commission said in a press release.
The EU-funded BioFibreLoop project, led by Germany’s DITF, has achieved a breakthrough by spinning lignin-cellulose fibres, advancing sustainable textiles for outdoor, active, and workwear.
Aiming to replace harmful chemicals with bio-based, recyclable alternatives, the project now faces challenges in sourcing high-quality lignin due to lack of EU standardisation.
DITF has been testing lignin’s suitability for fibre production and coatings that provide textiles with functions such as liquid, gas, and bacterial protection—essential for sustainable yet high performance fabrics. The project aims to ensure these lignin-coated textiles are both biodegradable and recyclable, aligning with the European Green Deal.
Despite market volatility, new wood refinery plants in Europe promise to stabilise supply. BioFibreLoop sees this as an opportunity for lignin producers to secure large-scale demand by entering the textile market. If successful, the project could strengthen Europe’s bio-based supply chains and resilience against global disruptions.
“Our good research results on the use of lignin in textile products together with the great market potential will strongly motivate the establishment of biorefineries for suitable lignin variants in Europe,” said Thomas Stegmaier, technical coordinator at DITF.
BioFibreLoop (Circular biobased technical textiles with innovative bio-inspired non-toxic functionalisation) will continue until 2027.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
Davii and Pé de Chumbo present catwalk shows at a decommissioned former metro station in Milan
Published
September 29, 2025
On Saturday, September 27, the Luso-Brazilian label Davii and Pé de Chumbo—the brand of Portuguese designer Alexandra Oliveira, who handcrafts unique textiles for her exclusive pieces—unveiled their spring-summer 2026 collections at the Major Virtual Tunnel, a decommissioned metro station that is establishing itself as an avant-garde venue and, for the first time, hosted presentations connected to Milan Fashion Week.
Davii and Pé de Chumbo presented their collections at the invitation of Portugal Fashion, as part of the official calendar of presentations in the Italian capital of fashion and design, thus marking “the second stop on Portugal Fashion’s international calendar, after London and before the debut of its own showroom in Paris, confirming the consistency of the project’s internationalisation strategy,” the Porto runway organisation explained in a statement.
“Between Davii’s architectural and conceptual precision and Pé de Chumbo’s artisanal identity, Portugal Fashion presented two complementary visions that attested to the richness of the national ecosystem,”
As part of the official Milan calendar, the two labels, representative of the excellence of Made in Portugal, staged different moments of ‘catwalk performance’, with Davii showing its proposals at 3:15 pm and 4:30 pm, and Pé de Chumbo performing at 4:00 pm and 5:15 pm, “creating a dynamic in which Portuguese fashion asserted itself in an immersive register and in direct dialogue with journalists, buyers and industry professionals,” the note continued.
Davii opted for black and white in veiled monochrome looks, cut in light, diaphanous fabrics that evoked, at once, the bittersweet aura of Vestal Virgins from Classical Antiquity, intertwined with medieval warriors and contemporary Amazons, and asserted that women’s power goes far beyond the femininity and sensuality imposed by male-dominated societies.
The Brazilian designer based in Portugal—now with a foothold in Italy and China, where he divides his time—brought to his work the beauty and strong character of those thoughtful, ancestral women with clear ideas who acted discreetly, in silence and almost anonymously, echoing figures such as “Lady with an Ermine” and “La Belle Ferronière”, masterpieces by Leonardo da Vinci that mark the dawn of the Renaissance in Italy.
Entitled “Reimagined Forms”, his new collection explores a contemporary avant-garde with deep roots—the most forward-thinking of every era—through an aesthetic that merges with the organic, fluid forms of nature. Davii combines neoprene, silk organza and leather in these sculptural, ethereal pieces that define the brand, reaffirming its position in the realm of contemporary conceptual experimentation.
Pé de Chumbo, for its part, makes its debut on the official Milan calendar with the “Femme” collection, also in
tribute to this “feminine duality that has balanced power and fragility, courage and sensuality”, the press release noted.
The collection favoured “intricate lace worked in robust yarns, references to corsets and daring cuts” in pieces that “evoke memory and tradition”, while also unfolding into bold silhouettes suggested by these singular, novel materials—without neglecting the dictates of fashion, especially those of the 1980s and 1990s—and the aesthetics, legacy and savoir-faire of northern Portugal, while drawing on a broader palette of neutral tones and vibrant, metallic colours.
“True to its identity, the brand asserted itself through the artisanal manipulation of raw materials and by controlling the entire production process in its own factory, a distinctive element on the international scene,” show notes continued.
According to Mónica Neto, director of Portugal Fashion: “Milan has been a strategic platform for Portugal fashion to assert itself. This edition reinforced that role, with Davii and Pé de Chumbo underlining the consistency of our presence on the official calendar and demonstrating the creative and productive vitality that makes Made in Portugal a trusted reference in the global market,” she concluded.
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