Business
From ‘cheap food and curry houses’ to upscale dining: The rise of Indian restaurants in the U.S.

Semma restaurant in New York, NY.
Courtesy: Steven Hall
Executive Chef Vikas Khanna has plated hundreds of thousands of dinners over the past 20 years — and he’s seen firsthand just how much Indian cuisine has evolved in the U.S.
Khanna, a world-renowned Indian restaurateur, created Junoon, his high-end Indian restaurant in New York City, more than a decade ago to wade deeper into sophisticated Indian dining, ultimately earning a Michelin star for the restaurant — one of the first Indian restaurants to earn the distinction.
As an immigrant in a post-9/11 America, Khanna said his bosses early in his career had been hesitant to branch out and experiment deeper with the broad canvas of Indian cuisine. Instead, he stuck to what he knew worked for the American palette: stereotypical menus and flavors like butter chicken and tikka masala.
But when American chef Anthony Bourdain visited Junoon for the first time, Khanna said he got the wakeup call of his career.
“He said, ‘I don’t understand why you guys want to camouflage your food to please the Western world,'” Khanna told CNBC. “He was saying, ‘You need to patronize the cuisine.’ And that became the foundation of Bungalow in many ways.”
Bungalow, Khanna’s next and highly popular venture in New York, is one of a growing number of Indian upscale and fine-dining restaurants popping up in the U.S. What was once takeout menus and buffets, Khanna said, has transformed into a business segment aiming to rival that of Italian and French cuisine and is garnering growing interest by the day.
According to Jimmy Rizvi, Khanna’s business partner at Bungalow, reservations for the restaurant sell out within 30 to 90 seconds of going live, with nightly waitlists averaging more than 1,000 people. The restaurant opened less than two years ago but consistently serves 300 to 400 dinners each night, becoming a top 10 restaurant in New York City on reservations platform Resy, Rizvi said.
“I definitely think that there’s a knowledge base that’s increasing; there’s more awareness with Indian food,” Rizvi, who also owns the restaurant Gupshup, told CNBC. “And there’s different cuisines within the Indian cuisine … that people are getting aware about.”
Bungalow’s Chef, Vikas Khanna.
Courtesy: Jimmy Rizvi
Tracking the rise
Khanna, who has been in the American restaurant scene for more than two decades, said he’s seen the entire landscape shift from “cheap food and curry houses” to sophisticated sit-down establishments.
Fine dining overall has seen a significant upswing over the past few years, Circana foodservice analyst David Portalatin told CNBC, as a post-pandemic appetite for a dining experience beyond just food has seen a boom.
Despite macroeconomic pressure with inflation and a pullback in consumer spending, Portalatin said customer visits to fine dining restaurants in July were up 5% year-over-year.
“One of the bright spots across the restaurant landscape right now is fine dining,” he said. “It’s evidence that the American consumer is once again desiring these unique and differentiated experiences outside the home.”
Along with that, Portalatin said younger consumers, like Generation Z and millennials, have a growing interest in global dishes with their “quest for flavors.” That opens the door for exploring cuisines like Indian food.
According to data from market research firm Datassential, new Indian restaurant openings in December 2024 hit 115, up from just 54 in September 2018. Currently, the firm counts 154 upscale Indian dining restaurants in the U.S. compared with 101 in January 2018.
Bungalow restaurant in New York, NY.
Courtesy: Jimmy Rizvi
Resy CEO Pablo Rivero told CNBC that he’s also seen demand for high-end Indian restaurants widen over the past few years.
“Modern Indian restaurants are redefining the category with ambitious menus and inventive formats — and diner demand for these elevated experiences shows no signs of slowing down,” Rivero said. “It’s a clear sign that diners are eager to explore experience-driven, innovative expressions of Indian cuisine at the highest level.”
And while growing American interest in global cuisines has taken off, the Indian American population has also mirrored that growth. According to the Pew Research Center, the Indian population in the U.S. has increased by roughly 3.1 million, growing about 174% since 2000.
That population has also seen a rise in affluence, making a high median household income of more than $151,000 in 2023, compared with just a median of over $105,000 for Asian American households overall, according to Pew.
Growing investor interest
As reservations at Indian restaurants begin to sell out even faster, investors are also looking to secure a seat at the table.
Just this month, popular U.K. Indian restaurant chain Dishoom gained private equity backing as it prepares to scale to the U.S. next year.
L Catterton, backed by LVMH, announced it was acquiring a minority stake for an undisclosed amount in Dishoom, marking the restaurant group’s first outside investment. The firm adds Dishoom to its growing slate of restaurant investments, including Japanese Kobe beef chain Kisshokichi and Spanish casual dining brand Goiko.
The new deal reportedly values the restaurant at roughly $400 million. L Catterton and Dishoom did not respond to CNBC’s requests for comment.
Bungalow’s Indian cuisine in New York City.
Courtesy: Jimmy Rizvi
Roni Mazumdar, with the James Beard Award-winning Indian restaurant Semma, said he’s seen a direct increase in investor interest as upscale Indian restaurants have boomed over the past few years.
Unapologetic Foods — the company behind many popular New York restaurants including Semma, Dhamaka, Adda and more — is having “continuous conversations” with outside investors, Mazumdar told CNBC, but even having those talks marks a significant change from when the group first entered the restaurant scene.
“I don’t think anyone saw Indian cuisine as a viable option until now,” Mazumdar said. “There are folks who we have consistent dialogues with who I don’t think five years ago would have even thought about the idea of, ‘Oh, it could be an interesting business model to look at.'”
Mazumdar said the landscape is “shifting rapidly” as more investors take notice.
“I wouldn’t call this a trend,” he added. “To take one of the oldest cuisines in the world – I think it’s an inevitability. It’s a matter of time.”
Emphasizing regional specificity
The Indian Restaurant Association of America identified hyper-regional flavors as one of its top 2025 Indian restaurant trends as chefs dig into the hundreds of local cuisines that dot the subcontinent.
Each of the restaurants from Mazumdar and Unapologetic Foods Chef Chintan Pandya, including Semma, emphasizes regional cuisines, rather than the typical northwestern Indian menus of decades past.
“I think we see a very interesting pattern where there’s a sense of curiosity towards finding out what a community is about through the lens of food,” Mazumdar said. “And I don’t think 20 years ago that was the case.”
Semma, for example, which was ranked No. 1 on The New York Times’ 2025 best restaurants list, explores the cuisine of South India, specifically the state of Tamil Nadu.
“I think one of the glorifying reasons that Semma is doing insanely great or something path-breaking is because it touches that nerve of Indian food which is cooked in India,” Pandya said. “That’s the entire belief, or the standard, or the vision of our company, where we will touch and cook the actual Indian food which we ourselves love to eat.”
Semma restaurant in New York, NY.
Courtesy: Steven Hall
Avtar Walia, the owner of Tamarind in Tribeca, has been in the American restaurant scene for decades. When he first immigrated to America in the ’70s, he couldn’t figure out why Indian restaurants weren’t at the same level as Italian and French restaurants.
By adding in more regional dishes and classic Indian street food, Walia said he began to see Indian restaurants — including his own eateries — change from typical buffets to sleek, elegant dining.
“From the last 47 years, I still follow the same pattern. Every month, month and a half, I change my lunch menu,” Walia said. “We take one of the regions … so that people can try different dishes, authentic dishes, and they don’t have to go anywhere else. And this worked very well for me.”
Walia estimated that nearly 95% of his clientele are regulars, with his restaurant becoming a staple for Wall Street business meetings.
And for Khanna over at Bungalow, the lines outside the restaurant just keep getting longer.
His rattan chairs have seated famed Indian celebrities like members of India’s billionaire Ambani family and Bollywood stars, as well as American bigwigs like Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, who visited the restaurant last year.
“When he came, he kept saying, ‘I know why every Indian in Seattle is on the phones at 8 a.m. PT to snag a reservation, because for them, this is not just visiting a restaurant — it’s a pilgrimage back home,'” Khanna said. “And that really stayed with me.”
Business
Galeries Lafayette sets foot in India with Mumbai store – The Times of India

MUMBAI: Parisian luxury department store Galeries Lafayette is tapping India for growth, a market it said lacks luxury retail avenues for high spending consumers who shop for a spate of labels across pricey fashion houses and shopping stores abroad.The retailer’s flagship store in Paris’s Boulevard Haussmann is the second most-visited tourist spot in the French capital after Eiffel Tower and attracts 35 million visitors a year, half of which are foreigners.Galeries Lafayette, which is launching in India through partnership with the Aditya Birla Group, will open its first store in Mumbai early next month, after eight years of studying the local market and consumer nuances.“India is a key and strategic country. It also has great opportunities in terms of growth. Indian consumers are already very interested in buying luxury brands and products. They consume them not only in India but also abroad — Dubai, Singapore, the UK, Paris and especially in Galeries Lafayette. Clearly, there is a lack of offer inside India…there are no (luxury) department stores here,” Galeries Lafayette CEO Arthur Lemoine, told TOI in an interview here.The India foray, announced three years back, comes at a time when US tariff turmoil has clouded global growth prospects, nudging companies to review strategies.Of the 67 Galeries Lafayette stores globally, 58 are in home market France with the rest of the nine outlets spread across Asia including China, Indonesia and Dubai.The luxury brand has stitched a 20-year licensing agreement with the Aditya Birla Group. “Beyond the year which are written in the contract, we are here to build the future together,” said Lemoine. The four-storey department store in south Mumbai will house a broad range of global products — from bags to beauty, apparel and accessories. From a Rs 25-lakh bag to a Rs 3,000 lipstick, the idea is to cater to the luxury consumers but also tapping into the premium cohort who are willing to upgrade to high-end brands.“Luxury in our country today stands at the threshold of transformation,” said Aditya Birla Group chairman Kumar Mangalam Birla, adding that “In the span of less than a decade, the market is set to grow over four-fold from $20 billion to almost $90 billion by 2030.”The brand play will be omni-channel to give access to a wider set of affluent consumers, many of whom are sitting in non-metros. “In India, we have pockets of consumption all across the country,” said R Sathyajit, CEO, international brands at Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail adding that the company’s own website will be launched in a couple of months.Delhi will house the next Galeries Lafayette store. Currently, the assortment at the store is global with a tilt towards French and Parisian brands. “Over a period of time, we would also like to be a platform for emerging designers in India as well. The beauty of a department store is that it evolves with time, reflecting changing generations, tastes,” Sathyajit said.
Business
Netherland’s renewables drive putting pressure on its power grid

John LaurensonBusiness reporter, Rotterdam

In a Dutch government TV campaign called “Flip the Switch” an actress warns viewers about their electricity usage.
“When we all use electricity at the same time, our power grid gets overloaded,” she says. “This can cause malfunctions. So, use as little electricity as possible between four and nine.”
It is the sign that, in one of the most-advanced economies in the world, something has gone wrong with the country’s power supply.
The Netherlands has been an enthusiastic adopter of electric cars. It has the highest number of charging points per capita in Europe.
As for electricity production, the Netherlands has replaced gas from its large North Sea reserves with wind and solar.
So much so that it leads the way in Europe for the number of solar panels per person. In fact, more than one third of Dutch homes have solar panels fitted.
The country is also aiming for offshore wind farms to be its biggest source of energy by 2030.
This is all good in environmental terms, but it’s putting the Dutch national electricity grid under enormous stress, and in recent years there have been a number of power cuts.
The problem is “grid congestion”, says Kees-Jan Rameau, chief executive of Dutch energy producer and supplier Eneco, 70% of whose electricity generation is now solar and wind.
“Grid congestion is like a traffic jam on the power grid. It’s caused by either too much power demand in a certain area, or too much power supply put onto the grid, more than the grid can handle.”
He explains that the problem is that the grid “was designed in the days when we had just a few very large, mainly gas-fired power plants”.
“So we built a grid with very big power lines close to those power plants, and increasingly smaller power lines as you got more towards the households.
“Nowadays we’re switching to renewables, and that means there’s a lot of power being injected into the grid in the outskirts of the network where there are only relatively small power lines.”
And these small power lines are struggling to cope with all the electricity coming in from wind turbines and solar panels scattered around the country.

Damien Ernst, professor of electrical engineering at Belgium’s Liege University, is one of Europe’s leading experts on electricity grids. He says it is an expensive problem for the Netherlands to solve.
“They have a grid crisis because they haven’t invested enough in their distribution networks, in their transmission networks, so they are facing bottlenecks everywhere, and it will take years and billions of dollars to solve this.”
Prof Ernst adds that it is a Europe-wide issue. “We have an enormous amount of solar panels being installed, and they are installed at a rate that is much, much too high for the grid to be able to accommodate.”
At Eneco’s headquarters in Rotterdam, Mr Kees-Jan Rameau highlights a large control panel that the company calls its “virtual power plant” and “the brain of our operations”. It is used to help balance the grid, avoiding blackouts.
When electricity generation is too high across the Netherlands, it enables Eneco to turn wind turbines out of the wind and turn off solar panels.
As for when demand for electricity is too high, it lowers the power to customers who have accepted to allow Eneco to stop or reduce their electricity supply when the network is under strain in exchange for lower prices.
But for homes and companies who want to scale-up their use of electricity with a new or larger grid connection, that, increasingly, is just not possible.
“Often consumers want to install a heat pump, or charge their electric vehicle at home, but that requires a much bigger power connection, and increasingly they just cannot get it,” says Mr Kees-Jan Rameau.
He adds that it is worse for businesses. “Often they want to expand their operations, and they just cannot get extra capacity from the grid operators.
And it has got to the point where even new housing construction in the Netherlands is becoming increasingly difficult, because there’s just no capacity to connect those new neighbourhoods to the grid.”
Those people, and companies, end up on waiting lists for a number of years. At the same time there are also waiting lists for those who want to supply the grid with power, such as a new home fitted with solar panels on its roof.

Tennet, the government-owned agency that runs the Netherlands’ national grid, says that 8,000 companies are currently waiting to be able to feed in electricity, while 12,000 others are waiting for permission to use more power.
Some sectors of the Dutch economy are warning that it is hampering their growth. “Grid congestion is putting the future of the Dutch chemical industry at risk… while in other countries it will be easier to invest,” says the President of the Dutch Chemical Association Nienke Homan.
So, was all this avoidable? “In hindsight I think almost every problem is avoidable,” says Mr Kees-Jan Rameau.
He adds that following the 2015 Paris Agreement on trying to tackle climate change, “we were very much focussing on increasing the renewable power generation side. But we kind of underestimated the impact it would have on the power grid.”
Tennet is now planning to spend €200bn ($235bn; £174bn) on reinforcing the grid, including laying some 100,000km (62,000 miles) of new cables between now and 2050.
That’s a huge amount of money, but there is also a big cost to not spending it. Grid congestion is costing the Dutch economy up to €35bn a year, according to a 2024 report from management consultancy group Boston Consulting Group.
Eugene Beijings, who is in charge of grid congestion with Tennet, says that patience is sadly required. “To strengthen and reinforce the grid, we need to double, triple, sometimes increase tenfold the capacity of the existing grid.
“And it’s taking on average about 10 years to do a project like that before it goes live, of which the first eight are legislation and getting the rights to put cables in the ground with all property owners. And only the last two years are the construction period.
“And meanwhile the energy transition is going that fast that we cannot cope with it, with the existing grid. So every additional request [to connect] is adding to the waiting list.”

At the Dutch energy ministry, which is actually called the Ministry for Climate Policy and Green Growth, the Minister Sophie Hermans wasn’t available for an interview. But her office gave a statement:
“In hindsight, the speed at which our electricity consumption has grown might have been collectively underestimated in the past by all parties involved. It is also hard to predict where the growth will occur first, as this results from individual companies/sectors and households.”
As for solutions, the ministry says it has a “National Grid Congestion Action Plan” focussed on adjusting legislation so grid expansion permits can be granted more quickly.
It is encouraging people to make better use of the existing grid with, for example, its Flip the Switch campaign.
And the financial incentive for people who feed their surplus solar electricity into the grid is being reduced to almost nothing. In some cases, people will even have to pay to feed solar power into the grid.
Business
Baroness Mone-linked PPE firm misses deadline to pay £122m

A company linked to Baroness Michelle Mone has failed to meet a deadline to repay £122m for breaching a Covid-19 personal protective equipment (PPE) contract.
The Department of Health and Social Care (DHSC) won a legal case earlier this month against PPE Medpro, a consortium led by Lady Mone’s husband Doug Barrowman, over claims the PPE did not comply with relevant healthcare standards.
A High Court judge ruled some of the company’s gowns they supplied were not “sterile”.
Health and Social Care Secretary Wes Streeting said the government would “pursue PPE Medpro with everything we’ve got to get these funds back” after the company failed to pay the damages cost by 16:00 BST on Wednesday.
PPE Medpro entered administration on 30 September, the day before the court judgement.
Streeting said: “At a time of national crisis, PPE Medpro sold the previous government substandard kit and pocketed taxpayers’ hard-earned cash.
“PPE Medpro has failed to meet the deadline to pay – they still owe us over £145 million, with interest now accruing daily.”
The firm was ordered to pay interest of £23.6m, which means the total sum owed is £145.6m.
According to the DHSC, this sum will accrue interest at 8% per year from Thursday until it is fully paid.
Forvis Mazars, one of the joint administrators appointed to take control of the business and recover money owed to creditors, declined to comment.
The National Crime Agency (NCA) previously said it was investigating the PPE Medpro case.
Mr Barrowman’s spokesman had said £83m of the government deal was paid to other companies but it is unclear whether they are being looked at by the NCA.
PPE Medpro was awarded a government contract in 2020 to supply PPE after being recommended by Baroness Mone.
However, after ordering 25 million sterile gowns from PPE Medpro, the government later launched legal action in 2022 through the High Court, claiming the gowns did not comply with the agreed contract.
PPE Medpro argued it had complied with the contract and that the gowns were sterile.
According to the company’s most recent accounts for the period ending 31 July, the business had £666,025 in net assets.
The document filed to Companies House also mentioned how the firm had used about £4.2m in reserves to fight the legal dispute.
Since the court judgement, Baroness Mone has faced cross-party calls for her to be stripped of her peerage.
However, peerages can only be removed by an act of Parliament.
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