Fashion
Lab-grown gems are robbing Botswana of its diamond riches
By
Bloomberg
Published
September 2, 2025
Across Botswana the lines of patients outside government clinics are lengthening, construction companies dependent on state jobs are firing workers and university students are threatening to boycott lectures after not getting the allowance increases they were promised.
The economic slowdown is a sharp reversal from just a few years ago when the world’s richest diamond deposits allowed the sparsely-populated desert nation of 2.5 million people to invest in free and efficient healthcare and plow money into funding tertiary education for students both at home and abroad. Its robust finances allowed it to provide for its citizens in a way that made it the envy of southern Africa.
The discovery of gems in 1967 transformed what was a rural backwater with, at the time of independence from the UK a year earlier, only a few miles of tarred road into the richest nation per capita on the sub-Saharan African mainland. Six decades later a diamond-market crisis has turned that find into an affliction and a cautionary tale of what can happen to an economy that becomes overly reliant on one commodity.
“For decades, we have leaned and relied heavily on diamonds. While they served us well, we know painfully today that this model has reached its limits,” President Duma Boko, 55, said in an August speech. “This is no longer an economic challenge alone; it is a national social existential threat.”
The market for natural diamonds is in crisis, with cut-price lab-grown equivalents hitting demand particularly hard in the US, the biggest market for the gems. They accounted for almost half of engagement ring purchases last year compared with 5% in 2019, according to jewelry insurer BriteCo Inc. The collapse of the luxury retail sector in China and the impact US tariffs have had on trade have also hurt the industry.
While lab gems can be produced in weeks or months, the formation of natural diamonds, made of crystallized carbon formed under extreme pressure and heat deep beneath the earth’s surface, can take billions of years before volcanic eruptions propel them upwards to depths where they can be mined or found on ocean or river beds. They also cost many times as much as their synthetic rivals.Their increasing popularity is creating the biggest disruption in the market since abundant alluvial diamonds were discovered on Namibia’s beaches early last century, causing prices to plunge, according to mining historian Duncan Money.
It’s choking off the revenue that accounts for 80% of Botswana’s exports and a third of government income. After repeated write-downs of its value Anglo American Plc is looking to sell De Beers, the world’s biggest diamond company that mines almost all of Botswana’s gems in a venture with the government.
Boko’s administration, which in October displaced a political party that had ruled since independence, is scrambling.
In July, the government engaged Malaysia’s PEMANDU Associates to advise on accelerating economic diversification and on Aug. 21 Boko took to Facebook to announce a plan for a little-known Qatari group, Al Mansour Holdings, to invest $12 billion. There was scant information about how the capital will be deployed and the same group has in recent weeks promised more than $100 billion in investment across six African countries, raising questions about the credibility of the pledge.
The president on Aug. 25 declared a public health emergency and implored pension funds and insurers to help fund the response. Government has frozen recruitment and there are shortages of medication, medical supplies and equipment, according to Kefilwe Selema, president of the Botswana Doctors Union.
“The situation is very bad,” said Galeemiswe Mosheti, a 42-year-old diabetes-sufferer who arrives at a government clinic in the capital Gaborone, at 8 a.m. and can wait as long as eight hours for his medicine compared with just an hour a year ago. “We’re spending long periods in the queue and our jobs suffer,’’ said the taxi driver who loses income every time he fetches waits to be attended to.
For construction companies dependent on government work the situation is no better.
“Most of our members have had to retrench workers,” said Tshotlego Kagiso, chairman of the Tshipidi Badiri Builders Association, the country’s largest building contractors organization, which before the current downturn had more than 800 members, some of whom can no longer afford their membership fees.
“The majority have suspended operations and many have closed altogether due to slower government spending,” he added, saying thousands of workers have lost their jobs without being able to be more specific.
The country’s economic statistics tell a story of rapid decline and belie De Beers’ marketing catchphrase, ‘A diamond is forever.’
The International Monetary Fund forecast Botswana’s 2025 fiscal deficit climbing to 11% of gross domestic product. That’s the largest budget gap since the global financial crisis in 2009, and the biggest in sub-Saharan Africa this year. Government debt will rocket to 43% of GDP in 2025, about doubling the ratio in just two years, according to data from the Washington-based lender, and exceeding a legislative limit.
In June, the finance ministry abandoned a forecast of 3.3% growth in 2025 and instead said the economy may contract 0.4%, foreign reserves have slumped 27% over the last year and Citigroup Inc. in July forecast Botswana will need to keep devaluing its managed currency, the pula. A first ever mid-term budget review is planned for as early as next month and Debswana, the country’s joint venture with De Beers, is operating at about 60% of capacity.
Botswana is “experiencing a significant decline in revenue inflows resulting in massive liquidity challenges that threaten financial stability and sustainability of government business operations,” Finance Ministry Permanent Secretary Tshokologo Kganetsano told a parliamentary committee in June.
Already, after years of limited borrowing, the country is turning to debt. It secured $304 million from the African Development Bank in May and $200 million from the OPEC fund in July and plans a domestic bond roadshow for investors on Tuesday. Its investment grade credit rating, the highest in Africa, is under threat with both Moody’s and S&P Global Ratings this year cutting its outlook to negative.
“The diamond sector is under severe pressure — both prices and volumes,” Ravi Bhatia, director and lead analyst at S&P Global Ratings, said in an interview. “They’re doing a combination of trying to diversify, fiscal consolidation and also austerity.”
While Botswana’s governments have been talking about economic diversification since the country’s first president, Seretse Khama, set up the Botswana Development Corp. in 1970 to develop copper mining and beef production, little progress has been made.
Tourism, focused on luxury safaris in the country’s Okavango Delta wetlands and a wilderness that boasts the world’s largest elephant population, is the second-biggest contributor after diamonds, accounting for just 12% of GDP. Some copper mines are being developed while huge coal deposits, barely exploited, can no longer attract the funding needed for extraction.
That’s left more than two fifths of the population under the age of 24 unemployed, according to the International Labour Organization, with the diamond mines only employing a few thousand people, and reliant on government largesse. That’s a situation Boko described as “a huge risk,” in a January interview with Bloomberg.
“We must now focus on job creation,” Boko said as he laid out ambitious plans for investment in renewable energy, technology and agriculture.
What he hadn’t bargained for was that there would be no money to pay for it.
While many other countries are reliant on a single commodity for the bulk of their earnings and go through cyclical downturns, for example oil-reliant Nigeria and Angola, for Botswana the outlook is bleaker.
“The difference with the oil cycle is that diamond prices are unlikely to ever come back,” said Charlie Robertson, author of The Time Travelling Economist, a book on how developing economies industrialize. “Its economic model is likely to cease being one of the shining lights on the African continent.”
Fashion
The LYCRA Company reveals legwear innovation concepts for 2026/27
The LYCRA Company, a global leader in fibre and technology solutions for the apparel industry, announces its latest collection of legwear innovation concepts for the 2026/27 season. Developed in collaboration with trend forecasters at Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, the collection explores how people live, dress, and express themselves, presenting four inclusive lifestyle categories: Work/School, Sport, Chill, and Going Out.
The LYCRA Company unveils its 2026/27 legwear innovation concepts, developed with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, built around inclusive lifestyles: Work/School, Sport, Chill and Going Out.
Moving beyond demographics, the collection blends performance, comfort, sustainability and self-expression, with fibre innovations designed to adapt to all ages, genders and styles.
These categories move away from traditional demographics and instead embrace inclusivity across age, gender, and style. Whether it is a teenager in uniform, an adult balancing work and fitness, or a style-forward consumer expressing glamour at any age, LYCRA fibre innovations provide solutions that adapt to the wearer’s unique needs.
“This year’s innovation concepts reflect the diversity of consumers’ lives and the inclusivity of modern legwear. We have created versatile, sustainable solutions that perform across lifestyles and support people of all ages, genders, and style preferences,” said Jane Gwyther, Global Product Director – Legwear
WORK/SCHOOL
Everyday resilience, for every age and style.
The Work/School category highlights versatility and practicality essential for everyday life, not just the boardroom or classroom. This is about garments that withstand repeated wear, hold their shape, and provide energizing comfort that lasts. From young students to adults who favour practical staples, this category offers styles that balances function and fashion for a broad audience.
Key innovations include:
- COOLMAX EcoMade fibre, made from 100% pre-consumer textile waste, provides permanent cool and dry comfort throughout the day for garments that stay in place.
- LYCRA STEAM-SETTABLE fibre ensures garments retain their shape and uniform appearance, wash after wash.
- LYCRA ENERGIZE powered by LYCRA FUSION brand offers graduated compression to revitalize legs, with the added benefit of run-resistance, comfort and durability.
Together, these fibres create socks and hosiery that stay in place, maintain their shape, and keep wearers comfortable throughout their day. This balance of durability, comfort, and sustainability makes the Work/School category inclusive of all ages and genders, ensuring practical solutions for daily wear.
GOING OUT
Bold expression meets technical confidence.
The Going Out category celebrates individuality, glamour, and the power of self-expression. Designed for consumers of all ages and genders who embrace fashion that combines aesthetic impact with technical reassurance. From understated elegance to bold statement looks, these garments empower wearers to express themselves confidently.
Key innovations include:
- LYCRA EcoMade fibre, made from renewable raw ingredients, offers the same trusted performance with ISCC Certification, an innovation for the sustainably minded fashion lover.
- LYCRA FUSION TRUE TO YOU garment, delivering run-resistant confidence with a luminous, natural finish that enhances the appearance of legs.
- LYCRA STEAM-SETTABLE fibre enhances garment aesthetics by delivering a smooth, uniform silhouette with a 360-degree fit. It ensures hosiery maintains its shape and size wash after wash, giving wearers the confidence of a lasting, polished appearance.
With innovations that reduce ladders and runs, enhance shine, and adapt to multiple body types, Going Out ensures style and inclusivity go hand in hand, this category brings confidence to everyone who chooses to stand out.
CHILL
Comfort first, for moments of pause.
The Chill category focuses on relaxation and downtime, recognising that comfort is universal. Whether it is a teenager unwinding after school, a parent balancing work and family, or an older adult seeking ease of wear, Chill garments provide inclusive solutions that adapt to life at home, leisure, or casual socialising.
Key innovations include:
- LYCRA XCEPTIONELLE garment, featuring a patented construction with anti-friction zones and powered by LYCRA ADAPTIV fibre, ensures an inclusive fit across all body types and sizes for optimum comfort.
- THERMOLITE Everyday Warmth garment, made with THERMOLITE EcoMade fibre, delivers lightweight insulation for breathable warmth on cooler days, helps to stay in place and reduce red marks.
- LYCRA SOFT COMFORT fibre offering light-weight warmth, helps socks in place while reducing red marks and enhancing all-weather wearability.
This combination makes Chill the category for everyone, offering effortless, inclusive comfort that adapts seamlessly to diverse lifestyles.
SPORT
Performance-driven solutions for everybody.
The Sport category celebrates movement in all its forms from elite athletes to casual fitness enthusiasts, and across all genders, ages, and body types. It is designed for consumers who value functionality, durability, and technical support to enhance their performance and recovery.
Key innovations include:
- LYCRA ENERGIZE brand with LYCRA ADAPTIV fibre, delivering graduated compression to revitalise tired legs and energise performance, making them easy to put on and take off and offers a wider fit window.
- LYCRA XTRA LIFE brand, providing ultra-light durability and extended wear, ensuring garments retain their shape and strength through repeated use.
- LYCRA FUSION fibre, reducing ladders and runs to extend wear life, offering lasting confidence during high-intensity activity.
From compression hosiery that supports circulation to resilient socks that maintain shape through workouts, Sport highlights inclusivity through adaptable performance solutions. It ensures that every wearer, regardless of age, fitness level, or gender, can access high-quality legwear that empowers their movement.
Seasonal Colour Direction
The 2026/27 palette reflects the diversity of these four lifestyles.
- School/Work, calm neutrals and versatile blues convey trust and reliability, accented with soft pastels for youthful energy.
- Sport is energised by dynamic shades of burgundy, khaki, and black, balanced with performance-inspired brights.
- Chill embraces earthy tones of greens, teals, and warm neutrals, designed for relaxation and harmony.
- Going Out shines in rich jewel tones, luminous sheers, and high-impact contrasts empowering bold self-expression.
Conclusion
By reframing its 2026/27 concepts into the categories of School, Sport, Chill, and Going Out, The LYCRA Company demonstrates how legwear innovation is not only about fibres but about people. Each concept reflects inclusivity across age, gender, and style, while advancing sustainability and performance.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (HU)
Fashion
After 2025’s dispute, DSquared2 and Staff International renew their license deal
Published
January 19, 2026
Dsquared2 and OTB Group’s Staff International operation have renewed their licensing agreement, “extending a long-standing collaboration that has underpinned the brand’s ready-to-wear business for more than 20 years”.
It’s a “long-term deal” that we’re told “follows a period of reflection and realignment between the parties and cements their shared vision and values. Specifically, the renewal marks a new phase in the partnership, defined by a more focused, strategic, and coordinated approach”.
That’s perhaps an understatement given the sensational news headlines around the deal last year as DSquared2 took the decision to interrupt their licensing deal with Staff insisting it would enforce the agreement.
There were accusations of contractual breaches on both sides of the deal that was originally signed in 2002, extended in 2010, and not due to end until 2027.
But it’s been resolved now with DSquared2 saying the new “agreement comes at a pivotal moment” for it as it “embarks on a new brand chapter, accompanied by new internal leadership”.
The long-term license extension “allows Dsquared2 to focus on brand evolution and creative development, while drawing on Staff International’s infrastructure to deliver operational stability, product excellence, and global distribution”.

DSquared2’s founders and creative directors Dean and Dan Caten said: “This renewal underscores the strength of a partnership built over time and our confidence in its future. As we redefine [our] brand strategy, the continued support of a long-term partner who understands our creative vision is essential”.
And Ubaldo Minelli, OTB Group and Staff International CEO, added: “We are pleased to continue working alongside Dsquared2 and Dean and Dan. The extension of this license allows us to build on our shared achievements and contribute to the success of the brand.”
We’re told that further details on the brand’s strategic direction and upcoming initiatives will be announced in the coming months.
Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Fashion
Source Fashion booms with focus on sustainable production
Published
January 19, 2026
Source Fashion wrapped up last week at London’s Olympia with strong momentum as visitor numbers rose 16% while exhibitor numbers were up 12%. It was busy and buzzing with plenty of special attractions as well as the serious side — meeting buyers and writing orders.
That was both a reflection of the importance of trade shows in Europe generally and of the strength of Source itself that has carved out its place as Europe’s leading sourcing event.
Buying teams visiting the event included the big players such as M&S, Next, New Look, Tesco, N Brown, ASOS, Boohoo, Harrods, and Universal Music, as well as a host of smaller but still important names. Think Lucy & Yak, Joseph, Temperley London, Oliver Bonas, Hawes & Curtis, Agent Provocateur, Rat & Boa, AYBL and more.
UK manufacturing isn’t dead
Bethany Davy-Day, Creative and Operations Director at Fashion Enter said: “It’s been a great show so far. We’ve hosted two upcycling workshops today, and it’s been encouraging to see strong interest from a mix of e-tailers, retailers and start-up brands, all keen to explore UK manufacturing. As a not-for-profit social enterprise specialising in sustainable manufacturing in North London, it’s been valuable to connect with brands at every stage of growth.”

There may be a widely held belief that Britain is no longer a manufacturing hub but the British Pavilion was a big draw at the show as companies focus on more sustainable ways of getting their products to market. The organisers cited exhibitors seeing “high-quality conversations, new commercial leads and a growing appetite from both start-ups and established brands to explore British production”.
Stacey Ohanian at Apparel Tasker, which also featured on the show’s catwalk, said that “we’ve had really positive conversations with start-ups and growing brands who are increasingly interested in working with British manufacturers, and we’ve been able to change perceptions around the cost and value of producing locally. We’ve made a lot of valuable contacts”.
And Colin Spender Halsey, CEO of The Natural Fibre Company, showing for the second time, hailed the “quality of visitors [that] has been even stronger this year. What’s been particularly encouraging is the growing interest in British manufacturing. Many of the visitors we’ve spoken to are actively looking to work with UK manufacturers, with traceability, sustainability and ‘Made in Britain’ increasingly high on the agenda. While we recognise the commercial challenges of producing locally, even small increases in business can make a significant difference to companies like ours”.
Outside of the British Pavilion, the wider show floor was also busy. Katherine O’Driscoll, co-founder of SP & KO, said the company “had a really strong show… the best Source Fashion yet for us. The event has been incredibly busy from start to finish, with fantastic engagement and a steady flow of meaningful conversations. We’ve generated some great leads and already confirmed new contracts, and it’s been particularly encouraging to see so many start-ups and independent designers attending”.
That view was echoed by Ivan Tang and Sandy Chang, respectively MD and business development head at South Enterprises. In their second show, they said they saw “even more traffic” having met “a wide range of new brands, from early-stage start-ups to more established businesses. What’s been particularly positive is seeing how much more focused and informed many brands are, with a growing interest in sourcing more sustainable fibres. There’s a real sense of optimism”.
Sustainability hub
Even director Suzanne Ellingham highlighted the direction the industry is moving in: “What is really encouraging is seeing the direct action that brands and retailers really are looking to bring production closer to home, this is the first time in a few years that we have felt that this is really happening. Alongside responsible sourcing and manufacturing, there is a growing appetite to address what happens at the end of a product’s life.

“Looking ahead, we want Source Fashion to be a place where brands can explore end-of-life materials, deadstock and remanufacturing, supporting circular solutions that create value, jobs and opportunity without relying on volume. That focus on transparency, lifecycle thinking and collaboration will continue to shape how the show evolves into its next edition.”
‘Edutainment’
Apart from the business that was done at the show, there was plenty to both entertain and educate with the content programme a big draw.
There were strong audiences across Source Fashion’s content stages, with supply chain accountability, circular business models, repair and longevity, craft-led production and future sourcing strategies, all on the agenda.

Particularly interesting was a discussion hosted by Simon Platt focusing on supplier collaboration, material innovation and the role of long-term partnerships. Meanwhile, another session challenged brands and buyers to consider how reduced production, alternative value models and craft-led approaches could play a role in building a more resilient fashion industry.
And data-led insight into the commercial outlook for fashion came courtesy of Euromonitor.
That session outlined how “shifting consumer behaviour, commodity pressures and demand for value, quality and sustainability are reshaping the market”. It also highlighted growth opportunities across sportswear- and wellness-driven categories.
A big draw as well was Fashion Deconstructed, which debuted as a hands-on area “designed to shine a light on the skills, processes and people behind fashion production”. That meant live demos, workshops and maker-led sessions, with visitors able to step inside the making process, from repair and upcycling to weaving and circular material innovation.
Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
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