Fashion
Lab-grown gems are robbing Botswana of its diamond riches
By
Bloomberg
Published
September 2, 2025
Across Botswana the lines of patients outside government clinics are lengthening, construction companies dependent on state jobs are firing workers and university students are threatening to boycott lectures after not getting the allowance increases they were promised.
The economic slowdown is a sharp reversal from just a few years ago when the world’s richest diamond deposits allowed the sparsely-populated desert nation of 2.5 million people to invest in free and efficient healthcare and plow money into funding tertiary education for students both at home and abroad. Its robust finances allowed it to provide for its citizens in a way that made it the envy of southern Africa.
The discovery of gems in 1967 transformed what was a rural backwater with, at the time of independence from the UK a year earlier, only a few miles of tarred road into the richest nation per capita on the sub-Saharan African mainland. Six decades later a diamond-market crisis has turned that find into an affliction and a cautionary tale of what can happen to an economy that becomes overly reliant on one commodity.
“For decades, we have leaned and relied heavily on diamonds. While they served us well, we know painfully today that this model has reached its limits,” President Duma Boko, 55, said in an August speech. “This is no longer an economic challenge alone; it is a national social existential threat.”
The market for natural diamonds is in crisis, with cut-price lab-grown equivalents hitting demand particularly hard in the US, the biggest market for the gems. They accounted for almost half of engagement ring purchases last year compared with 5% in 2019, according to jewelry insurer BriteCo Inc. The collapse of the luxury retail sector in China and the impact US tariffs have had on trade have also hurt the industry.
While lab gems can be produced in weeks or months, the formation of natural diamonds, made of crystallized carbon formed under extreme pressure and heat deep beneath the earth’s surface, can take billions of years before volcanic eruptions propel them upwards to depths where they can be mined or found on ocean or river beds. They also cost many times as much as their synthetic rivals.Their increasing popularity is creating the biggest disruption in the market since abundant alluvial diamonds were discovered on Namibia’s beaches early last century, causing prices to plunge, according to mining historian Duncan Money.
It’s choking off the revenue that accounts for 80% of Botswana’s exports and a third of government income. After repeated write-downs of its value Anglo American Plc is looking to sell De Beers, the world’s biggest diamond company that mines almost all of Botswana’s gems in a venture with the government.
Boko’s administration, which in October displaced a political party that had ruled since independence, is scrambling.
In July, the government engaged Malaysia’s PEMANDU Associates to advise on accelerating economic diversification and on Aug. 21 Boko took to Facebook to announce a plan for a little-known Qatari group, Al Mansour Holdings, to invest $12 billion. There was scant information about how the capital will be deployed and the same group has in recent weeks promised more than $100 billion in investment across six African countries, raising questions about the credibility of the pledge.
The president on Aug. 25 declared a public health emergency and implored pension funds and insurers to help fund the response. Government has frozen recruitment and there are shortages of medication, medical supplies and equipment, according to Kefilwe Selema, president of the Botswana Doctors Union.
“The situation is very bad,” said Galeemiswe Mosheti, a 42-year-old diabetes-sufferer who arrives at a government clinic in the capital Gaborone, at 8 a.m. and can wait as long as eight hours for his medicine compared with just an hour a year ago. “We’re spending long periods in the queue and our jobs suffer,’’ said the taxi driver who loses income every time he fetches waits to be attended to.
For construction companies dependent on government work the situation is no better.
“Most of our members have had to retrench workers,” said Tshotlego Kagiso, chairman of the Tshipidi Badiri Builders Association, the country’s largest building contractors organization, which before the current downturn had more than 800 members, some of whom can no longer afford their membership fees.
“The majority have suspended operations and many have closed altogether due to slower government spending,” he added, saying thousands of workers have lost their jobs without being able to be more specific.
The country’s economic statistics tell a story of rapid decline and belie De Beers’ marketing catchphrase, ‘A diamond is forever.’
The International Monetary Fund forecast Botswana’s 2025 fiscal deficit climbing to 11% of gross domestic product. That’s the largest budget gap since the global financial crisis in 2009, and the biggest in sub-Saharan Africa this year. Government debt will rocket to 43% of GDP in 2025, about doubling the ratio in just two years, according to data from the Washington-based lender, and exceeding a legislative limit.
In June, the finance ministry abandoned a forecast of 3.3% growth in 2025 and instead said the economy may contract 0.4%, foreign reserves have slumped 27% over the last year and Citigroup Inc. in July forecast Botswana will need to keep devaluing its managed currency, the pula. A first ever mid-term budget review is planned for as early as next month and Debswana, the country’s joint venture with De Beers, is operating at about 60% of capacity.
Botswana is “experiencing a significant decline in revenue inflows resulting in massive liquidity challenges that threaten financial stability and sustainability of government business operations,” Finance Ministry Permanent Secretary Tshokologo Kganetsano told a parliamentary committee in June.
Already, after years of limited borrowing, the country is turning to debt. It secured $304 million from the African Development Bank in May and $200 million from the OPEC fund in July and plans a domestic bond roadshow for investors on Tuesday. Its investment grade credit rating, the highest in Africa, is under threat with both Moody’s and S&P Global Ratings this year cutting its outlook to negative.
“The diamond sector is under severe pressure — both prices and volumes,” Ravi Bhatia, director and lead analyst at S&P Global Ratings, said in an interview. “They’re doing a combination of trying to diversify, fiscal consolidation and also austerity.”
While Botswana’s governments have been talking about economic diversification since the country’s first president, Seretse Khama, set up the Botswana Development Corp. in 1970 to develop copper mining and beef production, little progress has been made.
Tourism, focused on luxury safaris in the country’s Okavango Delta wetlands and a wilderness that boasts the world’s largest elephant population, is the second-biggest contributor after diamonds, accounting for just 12% of GDP. Some copper mines are being developed while huge coal deposits, barely exploited, can no longer attract the funding needed for extraction.
That’s left more than two fifths of the population under the age of 24 unemployed, according to the International Labour Organization, with the diamond mines only employing a few thousand people, and reliant on government largesse. That’s a situation Boko described as “a huge risk,” in a January interview with Bloomberg.
“We must now focus on job creation,” Boko said as he laid out ambitious plans for investment in renewable energy, technology and agriculture.
What he hadn’t bargained for was that there would be no money to pay for it.
While many other countries are reliant on a single commodity for the bulk of their earnings and go through cyclical downturns, for example oil-reliant Nigeria and Angola, for Botswana the outlook is bleaker.
“The difference with the oil cycle is that diamond prices are unlikely to ever come back,” said Charlie Robertson, author of The Time Travelling Economist, a book on how developing economies industrialize. “Its economic model is likely to cease being one of the shining lights on the African continent.”
Fashion
Canada & EU push to modernise trade deal amid global shifts
The announcement was made during a summit in Brussels, where leaders from both sides emphasised the need to deepen transatlantic trade amid global economic uncertainty and shifting geopolitical dynamics.
Canada and the EU have agreed to modernise the Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA) following a summit in Brussels.
It aims to reduce trade barriers, support SMEs while expanding co-operation in digital services and cross-border data flows.
Leaders including Ursula von der Leyen said it will strengthen economic resilience, diversify trade partnerships and secure supply chains.
The initiative seeks to update the 2017 free trade deal by reducing remaining non-tariff barriers, improving regulatory co-ordination and creating clearer investment dispute mechanisms, particularly to support small and medium-sized enterprises.
Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney has set a target of doubling Canada’s non-US trade within the next decade, positioning Europe as a key partner in achieving that goal. According to Canada’s Trade Minister Maninder Sidhu, the effort aligns with the country’s broader strategy to diversify trade beyond its largest partner, the United States, which currently accounts for nearly 70 per cent of Canadian exports and leaves the country vulnerable to shifts in American trade policy.
The agreement also launches talks on a digital trade framework covering data flows, cybersecurity, artificial intelligence regulation and digital services.
Maros Sefcovic, the EU’s Commissioner for Trade and Economic Security, said the initiative reflects the growing importance of digital commerce, noting that more than 40 per cent of EU-Canada services trade is already delivered digitally.
European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen highlighted that the partnership would support sustainable development, innovation and secure supply chains, particularly in areas such as rare minerals, clean energy and advanced technologies.
The modernisation effort underscores both partners’ commitment to strengthening economic resilience, promoting sustainable trade practices and deepening cooperation in the digital era.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)
Fashion
South Korea’s apparel imports slightly lower at $1 billion in January
Imports of knitted apparel and clothing accessories (Chapter **) were valued at $***.*** million in January ****, slightly lower than $***.*** million a year earlier. The imports of non-knitted apparel and clothing accessories (Chapter **) totalled $***.*** million, down *.** per cent from $***.*** million in January ****.
South Korea typically exports fabrics and textile materials while importing readymade garments. During January ****, exports of man-made filaments, strips and similar materials (Chapter **) were valued at $***.*** million, down *.** per cent from $***.*** million a year earlier. Exports of knitted or crocheted fabrics (Chapter **) reached $***.*** million, easing *.** per cent from $***.*** million.
Fashion
US company Carter’s sales climb 7.6% to $925.5 mn in Q4
The additional week in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2025, compared to the fourth quarter of fiscal 2024, contributed approximately $37.0 million in consolidated net sales. On a comparable week basis, net sales grew 3.4 per cent. On a reported basis including the extra week in fiscal 2025, the US retail, international, and US wholesale segments grew 9.4 per cent, 10.2 per cent, and 3.4 per cent, respectively. US retail comparable net sales increased 4.7 per cent. Changes in foreign currency exchange rates used for translation in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2025, as compared to the fourth quarter of fiscal 2024, had a favourable effect on consolidated net sales of approximately $3.0 million, or 0.3 per cent.
Carter’s reported Q4 fiscal 2025 sales of $925.5 million, up 7.6 per cent, boosted by a $37 million extra week; on a comparable basis, sales rose 3.4 per cent.
Growth spanned US retail, international, and wholesale segments.
Operating income edged up to $84.7 million, though margin dipped to 9.2 per cent.
Full-year sales increased 1.9 per cent to $2.9 billion.
Operating income increased $1.5 million, or 1.8 per cent, to $84.7 million, compared to $83.2 million in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2024. Operating margin decreased 50 basis points to 9.2 per cent, reflecting incremental tariff costs, investments in product mix and make, and higher performance-based compensation provisions, partially offset by higher pricing, lower corporate expenses, and an asset impairment charge in the prior year period.
“Carter’s delivered improved fourth quarter results with each of our business segments posting sales growth over last year. We see momentum building behind our products and demand creation initiatives, which have driven an improvement in the rate of traffic, new customer acquisition, higher realised pricing, and increased penetration of the best portions of our product assortments. All of this gives us confidence that our strategies are gaining traction,” said Douglas C Palladini, chief executive officer & president.
“2025 was a year of meaningful progress in stabilising our business while responding to significant new tariffs. We took actions to right-size our cost structure and we launched several important initiatives to improve the productivity of our merchandise assortments and store fleet. We also strengthened our balance sheet and liquidity with the successful refinancing of our long-term debt and a new asset-based revolving credit facility in place,” Palladini added.
Consolidated net sales increased $54.3 million, or 1.9 per cent, to $2.90 billion, compared to $2.84 billion in fiscal 2024, reflecting growth in our US retail and international segments that were partially offset by a decline in the US wholesale segment. The additional week in fiscal 2025, compared to fiscal 2024, contributed approximately $37.0 million in consolidated net sales. On a comparable week basis, net sales grew 0.6 per cent. On a reported basis including the extra week in fiscal 2025, the company’s US retail and international segments grew 3.5 per cent, and 6.3 per cent, respectively, while US wholesale net sales declined 2.0 per cent. US retail comparable net sales increased 1.4 per cent. Changes in foreign currency exchange rates used for translation in fiscal 2025, as compared to fiscal 2024, had an unfavourable effect on consolidated net sales of approximately $6.7 million, or 0.2 per cent, the company said in a press release.
“While we are encouraged by our progress, much work remains. Excluding the recent tariff developments, for 2026 we are planning growth in net sales as we build on the momentum of our product and demand creation strategies. We are also planning growth in operating income. We will remain focused and disciplined in our investments and overall spending and expect solid contributions from productivity initiatives. We believe the recent news regarding tariffs will be net positive for Carter’s, but it will take some time to fully understand the implications for our business and the broader marketplace. Our talented and dedicated teams and I are committed to returning Carter’s to long-term sustainable, profitable growth over time,” Palladini concluded.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RR)
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