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Louis Vuitton Foundation to stage major Calder retrospective

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Louis Vuitton Foundation to stage major Calder retrospective


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December 16, 2025

The Fondation Louis Vuitton will stage a novel Alexander Calder centennial retrospective in 2026, the latest in a series by the Paris art institute focused on leading artists of 20th and 21st centuries.

The striking silhouette of the Fondation Louis Vuitton in France – Fondation Louis Vuitton – Facebook

 
Previous monographic exhibitions at the Fondation Louis Vuitton have included Jean-Michel Basquiat, Joan Mitchell, Charlotte Perriand, Mark Rothko, David Hockney, and Gerhard Richter, its current show.
 
For Calder, a legendary artist known for his giant mobiles, sprawling mechanical kinetic sculptures moved by power and wind, the foundation will dedicate the entirety of its show space. And also, for the first time, the adjacent lawn, in a dialogue between Calder’s volumes, planes, and movements and those of the foundation’s famous sailboat silhouette.

The announcement by the Fondation Louis Vuitton on Tuesday, comes 11 days after the death of Frank Gehry, the master architect who designed its building. The art show will celebrate the centenary of Alexander Calder’s arrival in France in 1926 and the 50th anniversary of his death with a retrospective covering all aspects of his work. The son and grandson of two sculptors, Calder was born in Philadelphia in 1898 and died in New York in 1976.
 
Entitled ‘Calder: Rêver en équilibre,’ or ‘Calder: Dreaming in Balance,’ the exhibition covers half a century of creation, from the late 1920s and the first performances of the Calder Circus that captivated the Parisian avant-garde, to his monumental sculptures that redefined the idea of public art in the 1960s and 1970s.
 
The exhibition, one of the most important to date devoted to Calder, was conceived in close collaboration with the Calder Foundation, which is the main lender. It will also benefit from loans from international institutions and leading private collectors, bringing together nearly 300 works: mobiles and stabiles- to borrow Calder’s terminology for kinetic and static abstractions- as well as wire portraits, wooden sculptures, paintings, drawings, and even jewellery.
 
Works by his friends Jean Arp, Barbara Hepworth, Jean Hélion, and Piet Mondrian, as well as Paul Klee and Pablo Picasso, help to situate Calder’s radical inventiveness within the avant-garde movement. Thirty-four photographs taken by some of the most important photographers of the 20th century (Henri Cartier-Bresson, André Kertész, Gordon Parks, Man Ray, Irving Penn, and Agnès Varda) show an artist walking the tightrope between art and life.
 
After studying at the Art Students League in New York, Calder moved to Paris in 1926. In the Montparnasse district, the artist quickly became part of what was then the world’s leading artistic centre. There he presented unique forms, figurative and refined wire sculptures that attracted critical acclaim, and a miniature circus. Thanks to an exceptional loan from the Whitney Museum of American Art, the first in 15 years, Calder’s Circus is returning to Paris, the city where it was created. At the centre of this new kind of show, Calder manipulates acrobats, clowns, and miniature horsemen. Fernand Léger, Jean Hélion, Le Corbusier, Jean Arp, Joan Miró, and Piet Mondrian are among his spectators.
 
Calder’s visit to Mondrian’s studio in 1930 marked the abstract turning point in his work, first in painting, then in sculpture. Marcel Duchamp proposed the name “Mobiles” for the abstract and kinetic compositions that the artist presented in 1932 at the Galerie Vignon in Paris. Initially driven mechanically, then moved by slight breezes, these mobiles borrowed “their life from the vague life of the atmosphere,” as Jean-Paul Sartre wrote in 1946.
 
Calder returned to France after WW2 and set up a studio in the hamlet of Saché, in the Loire Valley in 1953. One of his sculptures still stands in the village’s square.
 
Like his swaying interconnected mobile art, the exhibition is a joint curation that includes input from Suzanne Pagé, artistic director of the Fondation Louis Vuitton; guest curators Dieter Buchhart and Anna Karina Hofbauer, assisted by Valentin Neuroth and Claire Deuticke; and Olivier Michelon, associate curator, assisted by Léna Lévy.
 

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Parcel tax: the e-commerce sector calls on France not to break ranks with its European partners

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Parcel tax: the e-commerce sector calls on France not to break ranks with its European partners


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December 16, 2025

As the European Union prepares to impose a €3 levy on small non-EU parcels valued at under €150, the French Senate wants to increase the proposed national charge from €2 to €5. E-commerce organisation Fevad says this would be a mistake that could cost France half a billion euros and is urging lawmakers to change course.

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The Fédération française de la vente en ligne, which backs the French flat-rate tax proposal, is campaigning for the national levy to remain aligned with those of its neighbours. Several countries, including Belgium, the Netherlands, and Italy, are preparing their own €2 taxes on small non-EU parcels. In Fevad’s view, France would be shooting itself in the foot by falling out of step with neighbouring markets.

“To circumvent the new €5 French tax, non-EU platforms such as Shein and Temu will have little difficulty routing their small parcels destined for the French market via neighbouring countries where they already have logistics infrastructure, notably Belgium,” the federation says.

Fevad also points out that a €5 tax would cost France more than €500 million in lost revenue, due to parcels being redirected to port and airport hubs in neighbouring countries rather than in France.

A temporary European tax

This stance comes just days after the EU adopted a €3 EU-wide levy on non-EU parcels under €150. The measure will come into force on 1 July, but it will be temporary.

This flat-rate tax, irrespective of the parcel’s value, will apply pending the introduction of standard parcel taxation, which will then follow the usual tariff rules for personal consumer goods.

“While this is a step in the right direction towards levelling the playing field between EU-based and non-EU-based businesses, companies will also need clear operational arrangements to ensure legal certainty and to adapt their compliance models and internal IT systems in time,” says Luca Cassetti, secretary general of the European confederation Ecommerce Europe, of which Fevad is a founding member.

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Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives announces finalists and jury members for 2025-26 edition

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Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives announces finalists and jury members for 2025-26 edition


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December 16, 2025

On December 16, Louis Vuitton unveiled its five finalists and five final jury members for the second edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, to be awarded at an exclusive celebration ceremony on March 24, 2026.

The five finalists for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives – Louis Vuitton

 
Watch Prize finalist Daizoh Makihara of Daizoh Makihara Watchcraft Japan’s ‘Beauties of Nature’ wristwatch entry incorporates the delicate, traditional Japanese cut-glass technique ‘Edo Kiriko’ into watchmaking in a world first and his botanical design features an automatic petal mechanism, perpetual moon phase, and 25-jewel movement running at 18,000 vibrations per hour. Independent watchmaker Xinyan Dai of Fam Al Hut’s mechanical, manual-wind wristwatch named ‘Möbius’ presents the most compact bi-axis tourbillon conceived to date, blending tradition and future-facing innovation with over 200 hours of handcraftsmanship.
 
Victor Monnin and Alexandre Hazemann of Hazemann & Monnin’s ‘School Watch’ entry celebrates the Morteau school of watchmaking with a fully in-house made HM01 calibre, synchronising complex mechanics and precise poetry. Bernhard Lederer of Lederer’s wristwatch ‘CIC 39 mm Racing Green’ presents the first fully functional dual detent escapement in a wristwatch, highlighted by a transparent case back and sanded, matte dial.

Quiet Club’s Norifumi Seki has entered ‘Fading Hours,’ designed to innovate “new mechanics that respond to everyday needs,” according to the watchmaker. Created almost entirely in-house, the watch has a first-of-its-kind alarm with a vertically mounted hammer and minimalist, concealed elements.

'Beauties of Nature' by Daizoh Makihara
‘Beauties of Nature’ by Daizoh Makihara – Louis Vuitton

 
“Since the launch of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize, our admiration for the dynamism of independent watchmaking has continued to grow,” said Louis Vuitton’s watch director Jean Arnault in a release. “These artisans create truly audacious timepieces, uniting extraordinary technical mastery with the boldness to challenge convention, and in doing so, they push the very boundaries of what is possible. As we celebrate this year’s finalists, I also want to thank the entire watchmaking community for the enthusiasm and support behind this initiative. I would also like to extend my gratitude to the members of the expert committee.”
 
After receiving submissions from around the world, Louis Vuitton’s five finalists were chosen from a group of 20 semi-finalists, whose work was evaluated by a Committee of Experts. The 65 watch enthusiasts, industry representatives, and global collectors measured the candidates’ timepieces against the principles of design, creativity, innovation, craftsmanship, and technical complexity to discern the five top entries.

Möbius by Xinyan Dai
Möbius by Xinyan Dai – Louis Vuitton

 
Carole Forestier-Kasapi, haute horlogerie and movements strategy director at Tag Heuer will take up the role of president of the Watch Prize’s jury after being nominated by the Committee of Experts. The jury also welcomes journalist Frank Geelen, founder and editor-in-chief of Monochrome Watches; Matthieu Hegi, La Fabrique du temps Louis Vuitton artistic director; watch enthusiast François-Xavier Overstake, founder and editor of Equation du Temps; and Kari Voutilainen, master watchmaker and owner of the Voutilainen workshops.
 
The winner of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives will receive 150,000 euros and a one-year specially tailored mentorship by experts from La Fabrique du Temps and Louis Vuitton. “The future looks promising, and we’re excited to see what’s next,” said Jean Arnault.
 

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rag & bone names Swaim Hutson head of menswear design

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rag & bone names Swaim Hutson head of menswear design


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December 16, 2025

The upcoming January edition of Pitti Uomo will mark Swaim Hutson’s debut as head of menswear design at rag & bone, unveiling his first collection for the New York-based brand for the autumn/ winter 2026–27 season.

Swaim Hutson

“rag & bone has always stood for authenticity and innovation,” Hutson commented. “I want to build on these values, creating menswear that is both enduring and immediate, capable of expressing the spirit of New York and engaging with a global audience.”

Hutson brings nearly two decades of experience in international menswear to the role. After founding Obedient Sons in New York- a CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund finalist- he held creative director roles at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Club Monaco, and Generra. He later launched The Academy New York, a label that has established itself within the fashion, art, and music communities.

“Swaim brings an innovative vision of creativity and craftsmanship, strengthening the essence of the brand: the elegance of British tailoring combined with the authenticity of American sportswear,” said Andrew Rosen, executive chairman of rag & bone.

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