Fashion
NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov
Published
September 16, 2025
The action in New York Fashion Week was concentrated in Brooklyn on Monday with distinctive and distinguished shows by Tory Burch and Diotima, after the day had opened with Zankov in Chelsea.
Tory Burch: Fashion in a cathedral of finance
No one can ever fault Tory Burch’s excellent sensibility when it comes to staging a show, especially this season, when she presented inside the luxury condominium skyscraper One Hanson Place.
Originally the HQ of Williamsburg Savings Bank, the main lobby in this former cathedral of finance built in the 1930s contains elements of Romanesque ad Byzantine architecture. Making it the ideal location for this eclectic collection, which blended snappy American sportswear, distressed fabrics and kicky imperfections.
Though diverse in its references, the collection was nevertheless coherent its fashion statement and target. Few creators today better understand the needs of busy working women than Burch. Her clothes have polish but are never prim.
She takes risks – like a great series of dropped waist skirts and dresses – but manages to pull them off with aplomb. She creates monogram silk sweaters but keeps them playful with myriad letterings. She drapes plissé flared dresses in liquid viscose with gusto.
Tory’s aesthetic is cool, cerebral and feminine, but never saccharine or insipid. Her cast looked like busy women brimming with panache armed with a great new Lee Radziwill handbag – each marching with supreme confidence.
Little wonder her front-row boasted Naomi Watts, Qin Lan, Tessa Thompson and Emma Roberts.
“We were thinking about the complexity of women and different facets of their style. Femininity and strength, precision and imperfection. The clash of pristine tailoring with naïve florals, seed beading with distressed leather,” opined Burch, who took a bow with a huge smile, the sounds of loud clapping echoing off the gilded mosaic ceiling.
Diotima: Rejecting colonialism through Carnival
Colonialism, and Caribbean culture’s fightback against that evil via the tradition of Carnival, was the theme of an innovative and intriguing collection from Diotima this season.
Yet though riffing on carnival archetypes, the collection was far from being clothes for a pageant. Diotima’s founder Rachel Scott referenced many carnival characters – with names like Baby Doll, Dame Lorraine – but the results were very wearable, cool clothes rather than theatrical statements.
Blending elements of active sport and couture: like a hooded sleeveless mesh top and pants finished by a layered skirt in shards of chiffon; or mini waistcoats accompanied by matte viscose crepe knit skirts. Her chevron-finished sequinned mesh bodies will have a huge impact and be copied by lesser talents and high street stores.
Scott can drape and sculpt with the best of them, her skill highlighted in some fab crepe lapel-free redingotes, layered asymmetrically below the waist.
Combining all her tricks and techniques into a super series of evening looks, they were worn by a cast with J’Ouvert pre-dawn street festival make-up with daubs of silver mud. That was before a bravura finale of feathery gowns with interior light weight petticoats.
Carnival couture received an enormous cheer when Scott took her bow inside a battered old warehouse in Greenpoint.
Last year’s winner of the CFDA’s 2024 American Womenswear Designer Award, Scott was recently appointed creative director of Proenza Schouler. In a word, Jamaica-born Scott is also the single most original fashion designer in the Americas today.
Zankov: Knits and stripes in Chelsea
Monday began with a runway debut for Henry Zankov, whose knitwear-driven collections have been attracting a lot of attention of late.
Zankov is another recent prizewinner, nabbing the Google Shopping Emerging Designer of the Year title in 2024.
So, even though this was Zankov’s catwalks baptism, the show managed to attract buyers from Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Selfridges, Bergdorf and Sherri McMullen, whose chain of boutiques around San Francisco have earned her a reputation as a savvy diviner of coming trends.
Presented inside an all-white art gallery in Chelsea to an audience of barely 150, the collection was pretty and pleasing, even if the show never took off.
Boasting some eye-boggling fabrics – bonded burlap linens or wrinkled checkerboard intarsias – Zankov’s clothes look novel, though also oddly retro. With too many football jersey carwash stripes, and predictable sequin mesh sheaths. Plus, styling that featured headscarves and daffy sunglasses only managed to remind one of Alessandro Michele’s early Gucci shows a half decade ago. Not exactly a very now look.
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Fashion
China releases details of outcomes of talks with US in Malaysia
Both sides agreed to continue extending certain tariff exclusion measures, a ministry spokesperson said.
Outcomes of the recent China-US talks in Kuala Lumpur include US cancellation of the 10-per cent ‘fentanyl tariffs’ and suspension, for another year, the 24-per cent reciprocal tariffs on goods from China, Hong Kong and Macau.
China will make similar adjustments to its countermeasures.
Both sides will continue extending certain tariff exclusion measures.
China will resolve TikTok issues with the US.
The United States will suspend for one year the implementation of a new rule announced on September 29 that expands its ‘entity-list’ export restrictions to any entity that is at least 50 per cent owned by one or more entities on the list.
China will suspend the implementation of relevant export control measures announced on October 9 for a year and will study and refine specific plans, the spokesperson was cited as saying by a state-controlled news agency.
The US side will suspend the implementation of measures under its Section 301 investigation targeting China’s maritime, logistics and shipbuilding industries for a year. China will follow by suspending the implementation of its countermeasures for a year.
In addition, the two sides also reached consensus on issues including anti-drug cooperation on fentanyl, expanding agricultural product trade and the handling of individual cases involving relevant enterprises, the spokesperson said.
China will properly resolve issues related to TikTok with the US side.
Chinese President Xi Jinping said in Busan, South Korea, yesterday that he is ready to continue working with President Donald Trump to build a solid foundation for bilateral ties, and create a sound atmosphere for the development of both countries.
“China and the United States should be partners and friends. That is what history has taught us and what reality needs,” he said.
It is normal for the two leading economies of the world to have frictions now and then, Xi noted.
He called on teams from both sides to work out and finalise the follow-up steps as soon as possible, and ensure that the common understandings are effectively upheld and implemented, to inject confidence into the two countries as well as the global economy through solid deliverables.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Fashion brand OVS opens flagship store in Delhi’s pacific mall
Ahead of the official store opening, a ribbon-cutting ceremony was held in front of a cheerful crowd of customers eagerly waiting to step inside. The first 100 shoppers received exclusive gifts, including a gift hamper on purchases of INR 6,000 or more.
Italian fashion brand OVS has debuted in India with a 9,000 square feet flagship store at Pacific Mall, Tagore Garden, Delhi.
The launch featured a ribbon-cutting ceremony, exclusive gifts for early shoppers, and a pop-up tram-themed installation previewing OVS’ Italian style.
The brand aims to blend Italian design, affordability, and sustainability for fashion-conscious Indian consumers.
Spread across 9,000 sq. ft., the new OVS store drew a strong turnout of Delhi shoppers and fashion enthusiasts, who explored the brand’s diverse collections for the first time. From everyday essentials to statement pieces, the store reflects OVS’ mission of making Italian design, modern style, and trend-forward fashion accessible to all.
Ahead of the store launch, OVS unveiled an exclusive pop-up installation inside the mall from 20th September to 21st October designed to offer shoppers a first-hand preview of the brand’s Italian style and design sensibilities. Styled like a vibrant European tram, the experiential space showcased curated apparel from OVS’ latest collections, allowing visitors to interact with the brand and get a sense of its quality and aesthetic.
Reflecting on the global significance of this launch, Carmine Di Virgilio, Global Chief Retail Officer, OVS, said, “India is one of the world’s most exciting fashion markets, and we’re thrilled to bring OVS here. With our blend of Italian design, affordability, and sustainability, we aim to offer style that’s accessible and meaningful. ‘Love People, Not Labels’ is at the heart of what we do, celebrating individuality and connecting authentically with our customers. This launch is an important milestone in our international growth journey and underlines our commitment to serving fashion-forward customers across diverse markets.”
Mr. Sundeep Chugh, Managing Director, OVS India added, “The overwhelming response to our debut in Delhi is a testament to the city’s appetite for international fashion experiences. Our flagship store offers a modern, seamless shopping experience that reflects our Italian roots while catering to the tastes of Indian consumers. OVS will quickly become a trusted name for those who seek quality, style, and value, all under one roof.”
Inside the new store, shoppers can discover an extensive range of offerings, from everyday essentials to premium collections such as OVS mainline, PIOMBO, B.Angel, Les Copains, Utopja, Altavia and BST. Each collection is thoughtfully designed and developed by the OVS design team, combining modern aesthetics with high-quality fabrics to meet the evolving preferences of style-conscious Indian consumers.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
Fashion
India’s Maharashtra state signs MoU with Abu Dhabi Ports
The MoU envisions investments up to $2 billion across sectors like shipbuilding, ship-breaking, water transport, port infrastructure and sports management, State Minister of Ports Development Nitesh Narayan Rane posted on X.
India’s Maharashtra state recently signed an MoU with Abu Dhabi Ports and the Investment Resource & Presidential Office of Abu Dhabi.
The MoU envisions investments up to $2 billion across sectors like shipbuilding, ship-breaking, water transport, port infrastructure and sports management.
The initiative aligns with Maharashtra’s long-term plan for blue economy-led growth.
The initiative aligns with Maharashtra’s long-term plan for blue economy-led growth.
“It is a proud moment for us as we are developing the maritime ecosystem in the state. The total investment envisaged is ₹56,000 crore, but apart from that there are strategic MoUs in areas of technology and human resources. With these MoUs, we will move towards achieving our aim of making Maharashtra a maritime superpower,” Maharashtra’s Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis said.
In total, 15 MoUs have been signed in this sector, with the largest allocation of ₹420 billion for the expansion of Dighi Port. JSW Infrastructure Ltd plans to invest ₹3,7.09 billion in expanding its Jaigad and Dharamtar ports.
Further commitments came from Chowgule Group, Synergy Shipbuilders, and Goa Shipyard to set up shipbuilding facilities in the state.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
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