Some experts saw tariff hike for South East Asian nations as a counterproductive move because the US tariff policy overlooked the benefits the US previously gained from trade deals, including clothing at lower prices and huge profits for American companies. The US once used to help these nations through export quotas, but high tariffs imposed now come as hindrance to their access to the US market. They counter the development policies the US itself once promoted.

In addition, strategic competition between the US and China adds complexity to the situation because many South East Asian garment factories depend on raw materials from China. Now they are under pressure to reduce this reliance while maintaining trade ties with both economic superpowers. The impact is felt most strongly by women in these countries. Around 70 per cent of garment workers are female, and the new tariffs threatened their already low income. Job losses directly affect the survival of their families.

Myanmar

Smaller garment-producing economies like Myanmar, Thailand and Laos came under intense pressure from steep US tariffs and shifting geopolitics.
Tariff hikes disrupted factory orders, accelerated closures, and threatened livelihoods.
Exporters were left to scramble for alternative markets, push trade negotiations, and rethink supply chains amid rising costs and dependence on China.

The 40-per cent tariffs on Myanmar exports took a heavy toll on the country’s garment industry, with foreseeable shut down of several factories. The tariff came into effect on August 1, and since then orders dropped sharply, leading to job losses, fewer overtime hours and eventual factory closures – at least four in the industrial zones of Yangon’s Hlaing Tharyar and Shwepyithar townships alone. The first to shut down was Twinkle (Myanmar), a factory that used to manufacture garments for US-based Callaway Golf and luggage maker Samsonite. Other closures included SDI Manufacture, Wan Xin Myanmar, and Eternal Fashion. In the past, factory closures used to be caused by electrical problems, raw material shortages or road closures but lately tariff became the major contributing factor. Over 700,000 workers are employed in Myanmar’s garment factories, with double that number in related industries. An estimated four times that number of family members depend on their wages, according to the Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association (MGMA).

To counter the effects of the tariffs, some factories that previously catered to the US market started seeking orders from Japan, South Korea, and the EU.

Alongside the high tariff, Myanmar also faced heat from the ILO (International Labour Organisation) over violations of agreements related to workers’ rights, such as freedom of association and the elimination of forced labour.

Thailand

Thailand’s tryst with US reciprocal tariff began with imposition of 36 per cent rate on April 2. However, after successful negotiations, the US reduced reciprocal tariff on Thai goods to 19 per cent starting August 1. In September, Thai garment exporters called on the new government to pause wage hikes and accelerate EU FTA talks, noting that garments remain a labour-intensive sector employing some 600,000- 800,000 workers. Rising wages to 400 baht per day would disproportionately affect new and unskilled workers whose productivity remains low, also increasing costs for employers. In Thailand, labour and raw material expenses make up 60-70 per cent of total production costs for garment manufacturers. Since the US accounts for approximately 40 per cent of Thailand’s garment exports, the increased US tariff, up from an average 10 per cent to 29 per cent, threatened this key market. On the other hand, Thai exporters face EU tariffs averaging 10-20 per cent depending on the garment type, so securing an FTA with the EU was seen as an opportunity to open up trade with 27 countries, which will help in offsetting potential losses in the US market.

Laos

Although the European Union, especially Germany, has been the main destination for Laotian textiles, the US has long been among the top five export markets. This is when Laos exports to US is relatively small comprising a small number of factories which supply the American market. Driven by US trade deficit of over $760 million with Laos, US administration imposed one of the highest tariff charges of 40 per cent on the small Asian nation. To complicate things further for Laos, its supply chains are closely tied to China. The high tariff is estimated to effect around 20,000 or more out of nearly 30,000 workers which the garment industry employs, while representing around 13 per cent of export earnings, excluding natural resources. This number rises in case of companies’ closure. If US customers pull back, an estimated 35 to 40 factories may face disruption.

Laos is a regional base for garment manufacturing that supplies to many western brands. Production of mattresses is among the various segments that are severely affected by the tariffs. In recent times, the country has benefitted with the success of the China–Laos Railway, which has transformed Laos from a landlocked state into a regional logistics hub, significantly reducing shipping times and costs.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SB)