Fashion
Used Rolexes, Pateks are bright spot in struggling watch world
By
Bloomberg
Published
August 15, 2025
The market for used luxury timepieces recorded its best half-year performance since early 2022, providing a bright spot in an otherwise grim landscape for high-end watches.
The Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index, which tracks the 50 most-traded timepieces by transaction value, gained 5.3% in the first half of 2025 — and extended that recovery in the third quarter. Rolex’s gold Daytona 116508 and Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut 5167A were among the top performers.
The rebound is modest compared with the pandemic-era boom, when housebound consumers, flush with cash, splashed out on fancy timepieces. Still, it comes as new watch sales face US tariffs — including a 39% levy on Swiss exports — and stubbornly low demand in Asia.
The second hand market is also benefiting as record gold prices drive up the cost of new watches and shoppers look to avoid delays that can occur when seeking to buy a new model, according to Christy Davis, founder of London-based Subdial, a watch dealer and trading platform.
In boutiques, high-demand new models are often tightly allocated, forcing would-be buyers to wait months or longer for delivery, while secondary platforms offer immediate access to a broader range of pieces, said Davis.
The increased prices for Rolex’s gold Daytona come during a boom for bullion amid tariffs and wars in Ukraine and the Middle East, while Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut is outperforming the Swiss brand’s hallmark Nautilus sports models, perhaps underscoring a growing trend toward restrained opulence, Davis said.
“There’s definitely something around people looking for more quiet luxury these days, and the Aquanaut is that when compared with the Nautilus.”
The primary watch market, by contrast, is suffering. Swiss watch exports dropped 5.6% in June, extending a year-long rout that’s seen declines in shipments to the US, the biggest export market, along with Japan and Hong Kong.
Watchmakers like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are also contending with the consequences of a stronger Swiss franc and a broader weakness in luxury demand. Swatch Group AG — whose high-end brands include Omega and Blancpain — reported a 7.1% drop in sales in the first half of the year, which it said was “exclusively attributable” to China, including Hong Kong and Macau.
Trump’s trade war has exacerbated the pain. Switzerland is reeling from the US imposition of the 39% tariff, the highest in the developed world. While that levy has now taken effect, the country is keeping up efforts to negotiate with the US, raising the prospect that it could yet change.
Fashion
Switzerland’s Calida narrows sales decline, lifts profit in 2025

The group recorded an operating result (EBIT) of CHF 9 million (~$11.6 million) compared with CHF 4 million in the previous year, lifting the EBIT margin to 4.2 per cent from 1.7 per cent. Excluding Cosabella, the combined EBIT margin of Calida and Aubade reached 6.7 per cent, approaching the company’s medium-term target range. Operating net profit improved significantly to CHF 7.6 million (~$9.8 million) from CHF 0.5 million a year earlier, Calida Group said in a press release.
Calida Group has reported net sales of CHF 215.9 million (~$278.5 million) in 2025, down 5 per cent YoY.
EBIT rose to CHF 9 million (~$11.6 million) and net profit to CHF 7.6 million (~$9.8 million), supported by strong Calida and Aubade performance.
The group maintained solid liquidity and continued Cosabella repositioning while targeting future profitability improvement.
The group maintained a solid financial base with net liquidity of CHF 25.1 million and an adjusted equity ratio of 67.9 per cent, while free cash flow reached CHF 9.8 million. The board proposed a cash dividend of CHF 0.25 per share, corresponding to a payout ratio of 23 per cent in line with its long-term dividend policy.
“After a challenging first half of 2025, the Calida Group developed positively in the second half and achieved operational improvements on sales and profitability. By deliberately and systematically forgoing discount-driven growth and strategically positioning Calida and Aubade in the premium segment, the brands were strengthened in the long-term. Overall, 2025 was another year defined by a persistently challenging market environment,” said Thomas Stocklin, CEO of the Calida Group.
“Geopolitical uncertainty, US trade and tariff policies, and muted consumer sentiment in our core markets impacted the entire industry. In this environment, the Calida Group has demonstrated strategic discipline and, step by step, is evolving in the desired direction. Today, our group is more agile and efficient. Combined with our financial strength, this positions the Calida Group to pursue well-considered organic as well as external growth opportunities, allowing us to look to the future with confidence,” added Stocklin.
Operationally, the company continued implementing its efficiency-focused strategy by reintegrating functions into individual brands, streamlining group management structures and strengthening capabilities across product management, marketing, operations and sales.
Brand-wise, Calida generated sales of CHF 145.1 million, declining modestly as store traffic softened, although e-commerce growth and a strong Christmas season supported second-half performance. The brand improved its operating contribution margin through higher gross margins and ongoing cost optimisation while reinforcing its premium market positioning.
Aubade recorded sales of CHF 58 million amid weak consumer sentiment in France and the strategic withdrawal from unprofitable channels following the pandemic-driven demand surge. Nevertheless, margin performance strengthened through strict cost management, ongoing rebranding initiatives and progress in expanding export markets, particularly in the United States.
Cosabella reported sales of CHF 12.8 million, extending its negative growth trajectory and contributing higher losses as the brand remains in an intensive repositioning phase under strategic review. The group is targeting a turnaround towards operational break-even in 2026.
Overall, the group indicated that organisational restructuring, inventory optimisation and disciplined channel management enhanced agility and cost efficiency, positioning the company for future growth while aiming to improve group profitability further as Cosabella’s performance stabilises.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
Iran conflict and apparel sourcing: Nearshoring on the rise
Fashion
US’ Wolverine Worldwide 2025 revenue rises 6.8% on Active Group growth
The gross margin expanded to 47.3 per cent and diluted earnings per share more than doubled to $1.14 from $0.55.
Wolverine Worldwide has reported revenue of $1.874 billion in 2025, up 6.8 per cent, led by Active Group growth and strong Saucony performance.
Margins and earnings improved, while cash rose and debt declined.
Fourth-quarter revenue increased 4.6 per cent.
CEO Hufnagel highlighted brand momentum and transformation progress.
The company expects 2026 revenue growth with steady margins.
The company strengthened its balance sheet during the year, ending with cash of $206 million, up 35.6 per cent, and net debt reduced 16.2 per cent to $415 million. Inventory increased 10.7 per cent to $274 million, Wolverine Worldwide said in a press release.
The fourth quarter (Q4) revenue rose 4.6 per cent YoY to $517.5 million, supported by strong Active Group growth, particularly Saucony and Merrell. Active Group revenue increased 12.4 per cent to $372.7 million, while Work Group declined 11.3 per cent to $134 million. Gross margin improved to 47 per cent from 43.6 per cent, reflecting product cost savings, favourable mix and price increases, partly offset by higher US tariffs. Diluted earnings per share climbed to $0.38 from $0.28.
“We exceeded our expectations across all key metrics in the fourth quarter, finishing a solid year for the Company. Our biggest brands are growing around the world, direct-to-consumer (DTC) continues to improve, earnings per share increased meaningfully YoY, and I believe we’re finding our footing where we’ve underperformed,” said Chris Hufnagel, president and chief executive officer of Wolverine Worldwide. “I am pleased with our progress in transforming the company and encouraged by the momentum we have carried into 2026. We’re focused squarely on executing our brand-building model with pace and distinction—building awesome products, telling amazing stories, and driving the business each day.”
Looking ahead, Wolverine Worldwide expects fiscal 2026 revenue of $1.96-1.985 billion, representing growth of 4.6-5.9 per cent YoY. The company anticipates gross margin of about 46 per cent, operating margin of roughly 8.8 per cent and diluted earnings per share between $1.31 and $1.46, signalling continued but measured expansion as brand-driven strategy execution progresses, added the release.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
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