Fashion
Thinness is back on catwalks — and the data proves it
By
AFP
Published
October 16, 2025
After a short interlude of pushing “body inclusivity” and plus-sized models to the fore, the fashion industry has returned to promoting thinness as a beauty ideal.
Data published this week from Vogue Business, based on catwalk shows in the most recent Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Weeks, corroborated what models with regular or larger body sizes have been reporting: their work is drying up.
Of the 9,038 looks analysed in New York, London, Milan and Paris, 97.1 percent featured models judged to be very small (US 0-4, UK 4-8 or 32-36 in France), according to data from Vogue Business in its size inclusivity report.
Regular-sized models represented only 2.0 percent of the body types seen, compared to just 0.9 percent for “plus-size” models (US 14+, UK 18+, France 44+), the report showed.
“There are fewer and fewer plus-size models on the runways,” Aude Perceval, a booker at Plus Agency, a pioneer in plus-size modeling in France, told AFP.
The trend was particularly pronounced in Paris, she added.
This is despite many designers adopting looks that naturally create curvy silhouettes, such as corsets.
In some cases, models have been sent out with padding around their hips to create the hourglass shape.
“Since 2022, there’s been a real regression, both in the frequency of contracts and in fees,” model Doralyse Brumain, 31, who wears a French 40-42, told AFP.
The “body positive” movement, born in the 2010s, was based on the idea of promoting acceptance of different body types and recognising the damage done by creating a beauty ideal of thinness that was both unhealthy and beyond the reach of most women.
In the same way that fur and flashy fashion is making a comeback, so is the aesthetic of extreme thinness that was called “heroin chic” in the 1990s when popularised by supermodels such as Kate Moss.
“There’s this false idea that being thin means being chic, being rich,” said French model casting director Esther Boiteux to AFP.
The wide availability of weight-loss drugs such as Ozempic — used to suppress appetite — has also been linked to the return of thinness.
The diabetes treatment “has something to do with it because we’re seeing a lot of celebrities who are using it”, British Vogue editor Chioma Nnadi said last November.
“I think there’s this shift in the culture around how we think about our bodies and how we address our bodies,” she told the BBC.
Clothes for fashion shows are also typically designed and manufactured in a single size — that of “standard” thin models — and making clothes for regular or larger models requires forethought and extra time to adapt them.
Ekaterina Ozhiganova, a Russian-born model and founder of the Model Law association, which advocates for model rights, says that consumers are in favour of seeing models in different sizes.
“But for it to become truly sustainable, there would need to be a profound change in production,” she told AFP, adding that the industry continued to sell “an unattainable ideal”.
French designer Jeanne Friot believes fashion runways should instead be a place where everyone can envision themselves.
“The point of a fashion show is to showcase something different from the fashion I grew up with, very thin and very standardized. I want to see (larger) sizes… older people, all ethnicities, all genders,” she told AFP.
For the moment, sighting a regular-sized woman on the catwalk is an increasingly rare occurrence, but the change is not going unnoticed.
“We have to speak out when fashion messes up and establishes a standard it should abandon,” French fashion journalist Sophie Fontanel wrote on Instagram in early October as she watched the Givenchy show during Paris Fashion Week.
mdv/adp/rhBy Marine DO-VALE
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In the course of a meeting with Hun Manet at the Peace Palace in Phnom Penh, Ambassador DesRoches expressed appreciation for the long-standing diplomatic ties, highlighting the steady progress in bilateral relations, particularly in trade and Canadian investment in Cambodia.
The envoy underscored his country’s commitment to supporting Cambodia’s successful hosting of the 20th Francophonie Summit. He stressed Canada’s commitment to further strengthening and expanding cooperation between the two countries, especially in trade and economic relations, while also reaffirming support for Cambodia’s development priorities.
Cambodian PM Hun Manet and Canadian ambassador to the country Christian DesRoches recently discussed strengthening economic ties, while advancing preparations for the 20th Francophonie Summit scheduled for November.
The envoy stressed Canada’s commitment to further strengthening and expanding bilateral cooperation, especially in trade and economic ties, and reaffirmed support for development priorities.
He thanked Cambodia for its support in promoting Canada’s economic cooperation with the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) and advancing negotiations for the ASEAN-Canada Free Trade Agreement (ACFTA), expected to be concluded and signed soon, according to Cambodian media reports.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
CBP is developing the Consolidated Administration and Processing of Entries (CAPE) functionality within the Automated Commercial Environment (ACE) to streamline the submission and processing of valid refund requests for duties imposed under the International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA), as authorised by court order or applicable law.
US Customs and Border Protection will launch on April 20 an electronic system that importers can use to claim tariff refunds authorised by court order or applicable law.
Phase 1 will be limited to certain unliquidated entries and certain entries within 80 days of liquidation.
Refunds will be issued within 60-90 days of the Consolidated Administration and Processing of Entries declaration getting accepted.
Phase 1 will be limited to certain unliquidated entries and certain entries within 80 days of liquidation.
CAPE is designed to consolidate refunds of IEEPA duties including interest rather than processing refunds on an entry-by-entry basis.
CBP plans to implement CAPE through a phased development approach, adding more functionality in subsequent phases for more complicated scenarios, it said in a release.
Valid IEEPA refunds will generally be issued within 60-90 days following acceptance of the CAPE declaration, unless a compliance concern requires further CBP review.
However, certain scenarios, such as entries that are extended, suspended or under review, and warehouse entries, will maintain their liquidation status with validated refunds issued at liquidation.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Named in honor of Gap Inc. co-founder Doris Fisher, the program reflects her legacy of creativity, curiosity, and belief in people. It also builds on Gap Inc.’s commitment to helping bridge the opportunity gap by creating stronger connections between education and careers in the fashion industry.
Gap Inc., led by Richard Dickson, has launched The Doris Fisher Creators Program with the Fashion Institute of Technology to mentor students in fashion careers.
Starting Fall 2026, the programme will offer structured mentorship, industry exposure, and networking for select students, honouring Doris Fisher and strengthening pathways from education to careers.
“Gap Inc. is a house of iconic American brands guided by our purpose — to bridge gaps to create a better world. That includes bridging the opportunity gap. FIT embodies that same spirit, bringing education and industry together to unlock talent and expand what’s possible. We’re committed to opening doors, investing in emerging creatives, and building meaningful pathways into this industry for the next generation,” said Dickson.
The Doris Fisher Creators Program will connect FIT students with Gap Inc. leaders and creatives through a structured mentorship experience designed to provide exposure to the business of fashion, industry insights, and meaningful professional connection.
The program will launch in Fall 2026 and run through the academic year, and the inaugural cohort will include students from select disciplines, including Fashion Design, Graphic Design (Apparel), and Fabric Styling.
“Supporting emerging talent is a core expression of Gap Inc.’s purpose in action. Through initiatives such as The Doris Fisher Creators Program — alongside This Way ONward, the Rotational Management Program, and our broader internship and mentorship efforts — the company continues to bridge the opportunity gap for young people looking to start meaningful careers in fashion and retail,” added Amy Thompson, Chief People Officer at Gap Inc.
“We are incredibly proud to be the first public college to partner with Gap Inc. on this groundbreaking mentorship program. This remarkable opportunity with one of the world’s most iconic brands will support 30 talented FIT students over the next year, placing them at the intersection of innovation and impact,” said Jason S. Schupbach, president of FIT.
A benefit for the FIT Foundation, this year’s FIT Annual Gala honored Gap Inc. President & CEO Richard Dickson and was attended by distinguished guests and alumni including Ciara, Aloe Blacc, Zac Posen, Bob Fisher and others.
The FIT Foundation provided scholarships totaling more than $3 million in 2025.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
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