Fashion
Thinness is back on catwalks — and the data proves it
By
AFP
Published
October 16, 2025
After a short interlude of pushing “body inclusivity” and plus-sized models to the fore, the fashion industry has returned to promoting thinness as a beauty ideal.
Data published this week from Vogue Business, based on catwalk shows in the most recent Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Weeks, corroborated what models with regular or larger body sizes have been reporting: their work is drying up.
Of the 9,038 looks analysed in New York, London, Milan and Paris, 97.1 percent featured models judged to be very small (US 0-4, UK 4-8 or 32-36 in France), according to data from Vogue Business in its size inclusivity report.
Regular-sized models represented only 2.0 percent of the body types seen, compared to just 0.9 percent for “plus-size” models (US 14+, UK 18+, France 44+), the report showed.
“There are fewer and fewer plus-size models on the runways,” Aude Perceval, a booker at Plus Agency, a pioneer in plus-size modeling in France, told AFP.
The trend was particularly pronounced in Paris, she added.
This is despite many designers adopting looks that naturally create curvy silhouettes, such as corsets.
In some cases, models have been sent out with padding around their hips to create the hourglass shape.
“Since 2022, there’s been a real regression, both in the frequency of contracts and in fees,” model Doralyse Brumain, 31, who wears a French 40-42, told AFP.
The “body positive” movement, born in the 2010s, was based on the idea of promoting acceptance of different body types and recognising the damage done by creating a beauty ideal of thinness that was both unhealthy and beyond the reach of most women.
In the same way that fur and flashy fashion is making a comeback, so is the aesthetic of extreme thinness that was called “heroin chic” in the 1990s when popularised by supermodels such as Kate Moss.
“There’s this false idea that being thin means being chic, being rich,” said French model casting director Esther Boiteux to AFP.
The wide availability of weight-loss drugs such as Ozempic — used to suppress appetite — has also been linked to the return of thinness.
The diabetes treatment “has something to do with it because we’re seeing a lot of celebrities who are using it”, British Vogue editor Chioma Nnadi said last November.
“I think there’s this shift in the culture around how we think about our bodies and how we address our bodies,” she told the BBC.
Clothes for fashion shows are also typically designed and manufactured in a single size — that of “standard” thin models — and making clothes for regular or larger models requires forethought and extra time to adapt them.
Ekaterina Ozhiganova, a Russian-born model and founder of the Model Law association, which advocates for model rights, says that consumers are in favour of seeing models in different sizes.
“But for it to become truly sustainable, there would need to be a profound change in production,” she told AFP, adding that the industry continued to sell “an unattainable ideal”.
French designer Jeanne Friot believes fashion runways should instead be a place where everyone can envision themselves.
“The point of a fashion show is to showcase something different from the fashion I grew up with, very thin and very standardized. I want to see (larger) sizes… older people, all ethnicities, all genders,” she told AFP.
For the moment, sighting a regular-sized woman on the catwalk is an increasingly rare occurrence, but the change is not going unnoticed.
“We have to speak out when fashion messes up and establishes a standard it should abandon,” French fashion journalist Sophie Fontanel wrote on Instagram in early October as she watched the Givenchy show during Paris Fashion Week.
mdv/adp/rhBy Marine DO-VALE
Copyright © 2025 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.
The collection features distinct women’s and men’s capsules designed for movement, comfort and self-expression.
H&M India has launched its official Lollapalooza India 2026 merchandise collection, marking its second year as festival sponsor.
The limited-edition drop features bold graphics, vibrant colours and relaxed silhouettes.
With separate women’s and men’s capsules, the range includes graphic tees, caps and tote bags designed for comfort, movement and self-expression from day to night performances.
“Lollapalooza India is a strong cultural moment, and a natural space for H&M to connect with a younger generation. Fashion today is about self-expression and confidence, and through this collaboration we reinforce our commitment to creating accessible, culturally relevant fashion that empowers individuality,” said Helena Kuylenstierna, Director, H&M India.
The range features graphic merchandise tees for both women and men, along with festival essentials such as caps and tote bags. Each piece is designed to move seamlessly from day sets to night performances.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
Apparel imports (code **) eased to Au$*.*** billion (~$*.*** billion), compared with Au$*.*** billion a year earlier. In November ****, imports fell sharply by **.** per cent year on year to Au$*.*** billion (~$*.*** billion) from Au$*.*** billion. The November contraction points to retailers delaying replenishment amid weak consumer confidence, promotional stock overhangs, and a preference for tighter inventory management ahead of the peak sales season.
Imports of textile yarn, fabrics, and made-up articles (code **) increased *.** per cent to Au$*.*** billion (~$*.*** billion) from Au$*.*** billion in the same period last year. However, November **** shipments under this category slipped to Au$*** million, down from Au$*** million in November ****, indicating short-term moderation after earlier restocking by manufacturers and converters.
The CFDA x NY Forward Grant Fund, developed with funding from both the New York State Department of State and Ralph Lauren Corporation (Ralph Lauren), will provide partially matching grants to designers and manufacturers based in New York City’s Garment District. The U.S. Fashion Manufacturing Fund, created with Ralph Lauren as founding partner, will support apparel manufacturers nationwide. Both programs aim to help companies to modernize equipment, expand services, and train workers – building the capacity and resilience of American fashion manufacturing.
CFDA has launched two new grant programmes with Ralph Lauren to strengthen American fashion manufacturing.
The CFDA x NY Forward Grant Fund will support New York City’s Garment District, while the US Fashion Manufacturing Fund will aid manufacturers nationwide, focusing on modernisation, workforce training, innovation and long-term industry resilience.
These programs build on the success of the CFDA’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative (FMI), launched in 2013 in affiliation with the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC), Andrew Rosen, and with the long-term support of Ralph Lauren, among others. To date, Ralph Lauren has contributed $2 million as FMI’s Premier Underwriter, enabling grants to 54 factories and positively impacting more than 2,000 jobs.
“Strengthening American manufacturing to ensure designers have local partners has long been at the core of CFDA’s mission,” said Steven Kolb, CEO and President of the CFDA. “We are proud to extend our decade-plus work with Ralph Lauren Corporation and expand to a national level while also continuing our local NYC investments alongside our first-ever partnership with the New York State Department of State.”
Together, these new grant programs mark a landmark commitment: sustaining New York’s Garment District while bolstering U.S. manufacturing nationwide — ensuring that American fashion continues to lead globally through innovation, craftsmanship and community.
“Our expanded partnership with the CFDA reflects Ralph Lauren’s enduring commitment to advancing innovation and supporting American fashion,” said Katie Ioanilli, Chief Global Impact & Communications Officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation. “This is not only an investment in our industry — it’s an investment in a vital part of American culture that we share with the world.”
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
H&M India unveils official Lollapalooza India 2026 collection
Fundamental shift from savers to investors: What Indian households are doing with their money? – The Times of India
Green energy exports: $10-bn green ammonia project positions India as global clean-fuel supplier; Kakinada plant nears key milestone – The Times of India
-
Politics1 week agoUK says provided assistance in US-led tanker seizure
-
Entertainment1 week agoDoes new US food pyramid put too much steak on your plate?
-
Entertainment1 week agoWhy did Nick Reiner’s lawyer Alan Jackson withdraw from case?
-
Sports5 days agoClock is ticking for Frank at Spurs, with dwindling evidence he deserves extra time
-
Business1 week agoTrump moves to ban home purchases by institutional investors
-
Sports1 week agoPGA of America CEO steps down after one year to take care of mother and mother-in-law
-
Tech4 days agoNew Proposed Legislation Would Let Self-Driving Cars Operate in New York State
-
Business1 week agoBulls dominate as KSE-100 breaks past 186,000 mark – SUCH TV