Fashion
Middle East IPO boom fades amid competition from global markets
By
Bloomberg
Published
December 9, 2025
After four blockbuster years, the Middle East’s initial public offering boom is losing steam as valuations come under scrutiny and listings roar back in the US and Asia. In recent months, the Gulf’s listing volumes have fallen to their lowest since the pandemic, investors have become markedly more selective, and the region’s once-reliable first-day pop has faded.
The change in sentiment was on show this week as Saudi Arabia’s EFSIM Facilities Management canceled plans for an up to $89 million listing on the kingdom’s main exchange. Saudi Arabia’s sovereign wealth fund has also slowed work on several planned first-time share sales, Bloomberg News has reported. Those moves come as the benchmark Tadawul index has dropped nearly 12% this year.
The Gulf had been a rare bright spot in recent years, buoyed by government privatisations and a push to deepen local capital markets. But lower oil prices have started to cloud the Middle East’s growth outlook, particularly in Saudi Arabia. Meanwhile, as IPO activity fired back up elsewhere, a region that thrived in a global listings drought suddenly faced competition.
The most striking shift this year was the sharp drop in IPO volumes across the Gulf, with regional listing proceeds more than halving from $13 billion to under $6 billion in 2025. In the UAE, listings slowed dramatically after the soft debuts of Lulu Retail Holdings PLC and Talabat Holding PLC late last year left investors more cautious. Dubai-based online classifieds platform Dubizzle Ltd. postponed its first-time share sale, a rare example of a pulled deal in the country. Oman, which had briefly outpaced London in IPO volumes in 2024, also saw activity dry up.
In Saudi Arabia, the EFSIM deal was pulled in part due to generally weaker market demand, people familiar with the matter said. Still, the kingdom’s IPO proceeds held steady compared to last year at roughly $4 billion, helping the kingdom reclaim its title as the Gulf’s busiest listing venue. But most deals came from the private sector as the government eased off on large privatisations.
“Government IPOs are large tickets, this year the market was not for this,” said Mostafa Gad, head of investment banking at EFG Hermes, one of the leading arranger of share sales in the Gulf. “Postponing the big ones was a very wise idea.”
The shift in sentiment was evident in deal size as well. Last year produced three IPOs nearing $2 billion after strong orderbooks allowed Talabat and Lulu to upsize their offerings late in the process, even though that enthusiasm didn’t carry into trading. In 2025, there was just one billion-dollar deal from low-cost carrier Flynas, and only four transactions topped $500 million.
Investors pushed toward smaller, simpler stories with clearer financials, “Anything above $500 million starts to get difficult,” said Gad, “People are not willing to navigate through a lot of complexity.”
If UAE IPOs slowed, follow-ons filled the gap. Secondary share sales in the emirates climbed toward $5 billion, overtaking IPO proceeds for the first time. Much of that activity came from Abu Dhabi government-backed shareholders trimming stakes to boost free floats, liquidity and index weightings.
Even Qatar, which has largely missed the Gulf-wide share sale boom, saw rare activity: Ooredoo’s multi-million-dollar stake sale by Abu Dhabi Investment Authority became the country’s most significant ECM event in years. Saudi follow-on volumes were more muted than last year, which was dominated by the government’s $12 billion sell-down in oil major Aramco.
Another defining shift came in performance. The 30% plus first-day jumps that had become a feature of Gulf listings started to crack in late 2024 and evaporated in 2025. In Saudi Arabia, the average listing gain turned negative, and only two of the kingdom’s ten largest IPOs now trade above offer. Broader market weakness didn’t help – Saudi equities were among the worst performers in emerging markets this year, dragged down by softer oil prices and concerns that this could dampen government spending.
Demand has also suffered in recent listings. Riyadh developer Al Ramz’s institutional investor books were only 11 times covered earlier this month, a far cry from the triple-digit oversubscription levels that were the norm months ago.
IPOs in the UAE fared better, but signs of fatigue appeared there too. Even contractor Alec Holdings PJSC – state-backed and the kind of deal that historically delivered a strong debut – traded tepidly on day one and is up a modest 3%. Dubai and Abu Dhabi’s main stock indices overall performed relatively well, but instant double-digit listing gains were no longer a given.
For some, that’s a welcome correction. “Everyone will adjust to the idea that not all IPOs will perform 30–40% on day one,” Gad said. “We’re becoming a mature market.”
Fashion
Bangladesh RMG workers part of trade unions get 10% higher wages: BIDS
At the sectoral level, RMG industry workers earn 19-22 per cent higher wage, reflecting stronger compliance regimes, formalised structures and higher skill intensity, the study by the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS) showed.
The findings of the study, conducted on 3,005 workers across 20 industries in three districts surrounding Dhaka, were recently shared at the Annual BIDS Conference on Development in Dhaka.
Readymade garment workers in Bangladesh who are part of trade unions earn 10 per cent higher gross wages than non-unionised RMG and non-RMG workers, a study by the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS) has revealed.
Meanwhile, climate change is affecting production in garment factories in Bangladesh as rising temperatures reduce worker productivity, another BIDS study found.
BIDS research director Mahmudul Hasan said empirical results show an overall unionisation rate of 11.35 per cent, according to domestic media reports.
While part of this differential is attributed to greater experience and tenure among union members, the wage premium remains positive and statistically significant even after controlling for these factors, he was cited as saying by domestic media reports.
Meanwhile, climate change is affecting production in garment factories in Bangladesh as rising temperatures reduce worker productivity, another BIDS study found.
BIDS research associate Kazi Zubair Hossain said annual productivity growth in the garment sector reached 4.19 per cent between 2014 and 2023 due to technological improvements.
The study noted that climate refugees are increasingly taking up jobs in the garment sector. As their numbers rise, more may enter the workforce, which “may have negative impacts on wages”.
The study said climate pressures could heighten gender-based violence and harassment as productivity falls and socio-economic vulnerability increases.
Pressures to cut emissions may support environmental improvements in factories, although the shift to green energy in Bangladesh remains slow, it added.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Caleres sales lift on Stuart Weitzman acquisition
Published
December 11, 2025
Caleres on Tuesday reported a 6.6% uptick in sales to $790.1 million for the third quarter, on the back double-digit growth in the American footwear firm’s brand portfolio.
The St. Louis-based company said brand portfolio segment sales surged 18.8%, thanks to the recently acquired Stuart Weitzman brand.
Without the acquisition, which was announced in February, sales increased just 4.6% on last year.
Elsewhere, Famous Footwear sales decreased 2.2%, with comparable sales down 1.2% for the three months ending November 1.
During the quarter, net earnings fell to $2.4 million, or earnings per diluted share of $0.07, compared to net earnings of $41.4 million or earnings per diluted share of $1.19 in the prior-year period.
“Caleres delivered third quarter sales results that were ahead of our internal expectations, highlighted by organic sales growth in our brand portfolio segment, strong lead brands performance, sequential improvement in trends at Famous Footwear, and accelerated e-commerce momentum in both segments of our business,” said Jay Schmidt, president and chief executive officer at Caleres.
“With the recent addition of Stuart Weitzman, our brand portfolio now drives nearly half our sales and more than half our operating earnings. As we expected, we experienced pressure on our earnings from tariffs and near-term acquisition dilution, however, the fundamentals of our business are improving.”
Caleres acquired footwear brand Stuart Weitzman from luxury heavyweight Tapestry in February for just $105 million. The cash deal was completed this summer.
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Fashion
Tommy Hilfiger appoints Sergio Pérez as global menswear ambassador
Published
December 11, 2025
Tommy Hilfiger has announced the appointment of Sergio Pérez as its new global menswear ambassador, reinforcing its long-standing relationship with Formula 1 and its standing at the intersection of sport, style and contemporary culture.
The announcement comes in the run-up to the 2026 season, when the Mexican driver will return to the grid with the Cadillac Formula 1 team, with Tommy Hilfiger as the team’s official kit partner.
“We have long championed drivers’ freedom to express themselves through style and, as Formula 1 continues to embrace fashion and entertainment, its stars have become truly global figures,” said Tommy Hilfiger.
He added that Pérez, an icon in Mexico and an international fan favourite, is a figure capable of inspiring new generations with his talent, confidence and personality.
From Pérez’s perspective, the collaboration also reflects the paddock’s cultural evolution.
“Tommy brought style to the paddock and gave drivers the confidence to show who they are away from the track. He has always been at the centre of the action,” Pérez said.
He explained that returning to competition with the brand marks a new chapter he embraces with enthusiasm and commitment, aligned with his preparations for the next sporting cycle.
The partnership encompasses menswear collections, fan merchandise inspired by the world of racing, timepieces, and participation in the brand’s campaigns and events.
Tommy Hilfiger adds Pérez to its line-up of athletes with global cultural impact, at a time when Formula 1 is extending its influence into image, consumer culture and fashion.
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