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Tendam’s Richard Gum: ‘Cortefiel has been a pioneer in virtually every facet of Spanish fashion’

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Tendam’s Richard Gum: ‘Cortefiel has been a pioneer in virtually every facet of Spanish fashion’


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December 22, 2025

2025 is a year of milestones and anniversaries. Among them is that of one of the doyens of Spanish fashion, Cortefiel, which celebrates eight decades on the market. Now firmly established as a pioneering brand and the seed of one of Europe’s leading textile groups, FashionNetwork.com speaks to Richard Gum, buying director for Cortefiel, Pedro del Hierro Menswear and OOTO.

With previous experience at Federated Department Stores (now Macy’s) and Gucci, he has spent 30 years at the Spanish company.

Richard Gum, Buying Director, Cortefiel, Pedro del Hierro Menswear and OOTO – Cortesía

FashionNetwork.com: Cortefiel turns 80 in 2025 and you have been with the company for three decades. How have you seen the brand evolve over this time?

Richard Gum: We’ve professionalised management through the rollout of systems, new functions within the company and a sharper focus on design. The way we work has changed significantly, thanks in part to the growing importance of digital—both commercially and operationally. What hasn’t changed is how we think about the customer, our desire to stay close to society, and our determination to weather the crises that come our way—of which there have been many over the past 80 years, and indeed the last 30.

Equally unchanged is our long‑term mission to stay relevant, which compels us to pay close attention to innovation and societal shifts. We do this while upholding our philosophy of a people‑centred business—customers, our team—and pursuing profitable, responsible growth.

FNW: How is this strategy structured to stay relevant?

R. G.: Innovation and staying current are vital, but you can’t be relevant without an essence—a heritage—to preserve. As an 80‑year‑old company, those of us here today want to keep making it better and ensure it lasts another 80 years. How? By staying current and remaining part of our customers’ lives.

Cortefiel celebrates eight decades of history in 2025.
Cortefiel celebrates eight decades of history in 2025. – Cortefiel

FNW: What values defined the brand at its origin and are still present today?

R. G.: First and foremost, the product. It’s in our name—a “faithful cut”. We pay close attention to construction, use quality fabrics and, across our sales channels, aim to advise customers as well as possible. Those values are embedded in the garments and, as a company, we work as a team and strive to act responsibly towards everyone in our ecosystem, be they customers, employees or external partners.

FNW: From a corporate angle, the company has changed a lot in recent years. What was the Cortefiel group became the Tendam group and, in the last five years, new brands have been incorporated and launched. Not to mention the recent acquisition by Multiply Group. How has the brand dealt with these processes?

R. G.: With the transformation from Grupo Cortefiel to Tendam, what we on the inside have seen is the professionalisation of operations. By sharing them across several banners, we’ve been able to build more robust sourcing structures, strengthen logistics and distribution, and bring in IT specialists—things that, as standalone brands, we wouldn’t have managed in the same way. That professionalisation has allowed those of us working within the brands to focus more on our customers, products and value proposition.

As for new brands, Cortefiel—being the base of the group and the original core—has positioned itself very well to serve as an incubator. Pedro del Hierro began within Cortefiel and, although it remains an important part, it now has its own identity. Women’secret also launched with a strong presence in Cortefiel stores and later became completely independent. We now have newer brands—Hoss, OOTO and Slow Love—enjoying strong growth and adding significant value to the group, while giving customers more choice.

FNW: So, what role would you say Cortefiel plays within the Tendam group?

R. G.: As the brand from which the group originated, it plays a fundamental role in how we see ourselves as a company. It has provided the platform for growth and for adding brands over the past 80 years. It has served not only as an incubator for brands, but also for initiatives such as our loyalty club, which now counts eight million members. Club Cortefiel launched in 1979 and was truly pioneering—preceding even the department store programmes.

FNW: Let’s talk about distribution. What is Cortefiel’s current position?

R. G.: We operate in 40 countries. Spain remains our home and is hugely important to us, but we’re pursuing an organic, very natural expansion into other markets. We have a franchise network across Africa, Latin America, Europe and Asia. We’ve recently opened concessions in Shaws department stores in Ireland, inaugurated the first Hoss store in Mexico and, also in the Mexican market, we’ll launch Cortefiel in spring 2026.

Cortefiel plans to enter Mexico next spring.
Cortefiel plans to enter Mexico next spring. – Cortefiel

FNW: What will Cortefiel’s landing in Mexico be like?

R. G.: They will be standalone stores, offering our full assortment—menswear and womenswear. We’re in the process of signing contracts and organising the expansion. Although we’re a Spanish company, when we enter a new country like Mexico it’s vital for us to build the same closeness and connection with local customers that we enjoy with consumers in mature markets such as Spain and Portugal. We want to understand their needs, tastes and shopping occasions, which aren’t exactly the same as elsewhere.

FNW: How does Cortefiel connect with international audiences? What do customers like about the brand outside Spain?

R. G.: In some countries we see a very positive response from the outset—Portugal, for example. Others are less similar to Spain, such as those in Latin America or the Balkans, where our elegance, quality and a style distinct from global fast fashion—focused on adult customers—are appreciated. European style in general, and Spanish in particular, also carries positive weight abroad.

FNW: Going back to Cortefiel as a brand, what would you say is its legacy to Spanish fashion?

R. G.: It has been a pioneer in almost every aspect of Spanish fashion. It was among the first chains to expand abroad, among the first to offer menswear and womenswear under one roof—even to install fluorescent lighting! In many Spanish cities, the first escalator was at Cortefiel. That drive to stay current is our heritage and what will help us remain relevant—continually considering what we can contribute, how we can offer a better product, and how we can listen more closely to customers and markets. We’ve also incorporated topics that barely featured 20 years ago, such as sustainability. And we’ve done so while preserving our style and a very human philosophy: it’s our strength, the legacy of the past and the roadmap for the future.

FNW: There are still two decades to go before 100, but Cortefiel is well on its way to becoming a centenary brand. How do you envision the firm on that anniversary?

R. G.: I hope to be retired by then—although you never know! Joking aside, given everything that’s changed in the company over the past 20 years, it’s hard to imagine what the next 20 will look like. I’m sure that by then Cortefiel will be fully up to speed with technology; we’ll deliver our products to customers in the way they want to receive them and use every tool at our disposal to offer the best product. I imagine we’ll be able to create increasingly personalised garments, under a more sustainable business approach that uses only the resources required to deliver the best result. I believe we’ll still be intent on dressing people well, with durable, versatile garments. That balance—using the tools available to adapt to society while preserving our essence—is what has brought us to 80 years.

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India needs more FTAs to take on rivals in textile-RMG exports: VP

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India needs more FTAs to take on rivals in textile-RMG exports: VP



India should sign more free trade agreements (FTAs) to gain a level-playing field in global textile and apparel export markets with competitors like Bangladesh, according to Vice President C P Radhakrishnan.

Addressing an Apparel Exports Promotion Council (AEPC) awards event in New Delhi yesterday, Radhakrishnan said India earlier had a few competitors globally in garment exports, but now the list of such nations includes Bangladesh, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and several African countries.

India should sign more FTAs to gain a level-playing field in global textile and apparel export markets with competitors like Bangladesh, Vice President C P Radhakrishnan told an AEPC awards event in New Delhi yesterday.
He said India earlier had a few competitors globally in garment exports, but the situation has changed now.
The only constraint is the FTA with the US is “a little uncertain”, he noted.

“So FTA is a must… it is the greatest advantage they are having,” Radhakrishnan was quoted as saying by a news agency.

India aims at achieving a textile market size of $350 billion by 2030, with $100 billion in textile exports, he said, urging the apparel industry to actively explore new markets and adopt eco-friendly manufacturing practices, responsible sourcing and strategies to minimise waste.

The only constraint today is the FTA with the United States is “a little uncertain”, he noted, adding that it is only a matter of time.

Acknowledging several constraints on the Indian textile and apparel industry due to geopolitical situation, he expressed confidence that India’s textiles exports will double in the next three years.

India’s textiles and apparel exports stood at $37.75 billion in fiscal 2024-25.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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Trade on the brink: How finance is reshaping global growth

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Trade on the brink: How finance is reshaping global growth




UNCTAD warns global trade is increasingly exposed to financial volatility, with over 90 per cent reliant on credit, currencies and payment systems.
Global growth is projected to ease to 2.6 per cent in 2025–26.
Higher borrowing costs, climate risk premiums and financialised food trade are amplifying systemic risks for developing economies and weakening long-term resilience.



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Suzhou Tianyuan lifts accuracy to 98% with Coats Digital’s GSDCost

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Suzhou Tianyuan lifts accuracy to 98% with Coats Digital’s GSDCost



Coats Digital is delighted to announce that Suzhou Tianyuan Garments Co., Ltd., a leading manufacturer of high-quality sportswear and functional apparel for global brands such as Adidas, FILA, ANTA, and The North Face, has achieved remarkable productivity and cost management improvements following the implementation of Coats Digital’s award-winning method-time-cost optimisation solution, GSDCost.

Through the digitization of its production processes, Tianyuan has improved SMV calculation accuracy to 98%, shortened new product process analysis time from four days to one, and reduced sample garment development cycles by 25%.

Suzhou Tianyuan achieved 98 per cent SMV accuracy after adopting Coats Digital’s GSDCost.
Process analysis efficiency rose 60 per cent, cutting new product analysis time to one day and reducing sample development cycles by 25 per cent.
Cost estimation accuracy improved to 95 per cent, while on-time delivery reached 96 per cent and material waste fell by 2 per cent.

Founded in Suzhou, Tianyuan Garments employs over 5,000 people and produces more than 26 million garments annually, including sportswear, shirts, trousers, coats, down jackets, and technical outerwear. Certified under the ISO9001 Quality Management System and the BSCI Social Responsibility System, Tianyuan has been honoured with the Adidas Global Supplier Award for four consecutive years.

Before adopting GSDCost, Tianyuan’s standard minute value (SMV) calculations were largely based on engineers’ individual experience, resulting in variations of up to 30% across production lines. The lack of consistent data meant that process analysis for new products could take several days, often producing inaccurate results. The increasing need for faster turnarounds and more fragmented, complex orders highlighted the necessity for a more agile, scientific approach.

Hailan Chen, Industrial Engineering Director at Suzhou Tianyuan, said: “Before implementing GSDCost, SMV calculations relied heavily on engineers’ experience, resulting in variations of up to 30% across different production lines. New product process analysis consequently, took three to four days. As fast fashion and fragmented orders became more prevalent, traditional methods struggled to meet brands’ demands for a rapid response.”

Recognising rising industry costs and the need to strengthen competitiveness, Tianyuan began its digital transformation journey three years ago.

Mr. Tang, General Manager at Suzhou Tianyuan, said: “Amid rising costs and shifting production capacities across the global apparel manufacturing industry, we identified digital transformation as our strategic solution. Before implementing GSDCost, although we served as a contract manufacturer for well-known brands, our cost control methods were inefficient and manual, leading to a year-on-year decline in profit margins.”

The implementation of GSDCost played a pivotal role in achieving the company’s strategic goals of higher transparency, efficiency, and profitability. With GSDCost onboard, Tianyuan quickly established a unified digital process platform that standardised SMV calculations across all operations.

Hailan Chen added: “After adopting GSDCost, our SMV calculation accuracy has now improved to 98%, and new product process analysis time has been shortened to just one day—increasing the quotation efficiency by over 60%.”

For complex functional apparel orders, GSDCost’s intelligent matching feature enables Tianyuan to complete process breakdowns in just a few hours—a task that previously took days.

“The standardised operation library in GSDCost also helped us reduce sample garment development cycles by 25%, securing a critical competitive advantage in an increasingly demanding market,” explained Hailan Chen.

Mr. Tang added: “By digitizing the entire process from order placement to shipment, Tianyuan achieved three major breakthroughs. First, the accuracy of cost estimation improved from 75% to 95%, strengthening our negotiation power and enabling us to secure partnerships with premium clients such as Adidas. Second, we established a real-time production management system, increasing on-time delivery performance to 96% and reducing material waste by approximately 2%. GSDCost has become the core engine driving our transformation from manufacturing to smart manufacturing.”

GSDCost, Coats Digital’s method analysis and predetermined times solution, is widely acknowledged as the de facto international standard across the sewn products industry. It supports a more collaborative, transparent, and sustainable supply chain in which brands and manufacturers establish and optimise ‘International Standard Time Benchmarks’ using standard motion codes and predetermined times. This shared framework supports accurate cost prediction, fact-based negotiation, and a more efficient garment manufacturing process, while concurrently delivering on CSR commitments.

Boris Lu, Customer Success Manager at Coats Digital, said: “The success of the GSDCost project at Suzhou Tianyuan Garments demonstrates the profound value of digital transformation in apparel manufacturing. During the implementation process, we worked closely with the Tianyuan team to deeply integrate industry expertise with system functionalities, building a standardised database covering over 50,000 processes. This has enabled Tianyuan to make faster, more accurate production decisions, optimise processes across multiple lines, and strengthen both its competitiveness and operational resilience.”

Key Benefits and ROI for Suzhou Tianyuan

  • 98% accuracy in SMV calculation
  • 60% improvement in process analysis efficiency
  • 25% reduction in sample development cycles
  • 95% accuracy in cost estimation
  • 96% on-time delivery performance
  • 2% reduction in material waste
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (MS)



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