Fashion
Erdem, de Savary open key London pop-ups, J&M Davidson takes Burlington Arcade space
Published
August 27, 2025
Erdem has opened an immersive pop-up installation at Selfridges London until mid-September as the British luxury brand preps for SS26 runway show at London Fashion Week on September 21.
The second floor atrium installation “presents a visual dialogue between fashion and art”, with a curated selection of ready-to-wear and accessories from Erdem’s Pre-Fall 2025 and AW25 collections.
It explores the inspiration behind the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2025 runway collection, created in collaboration with British contemporary artist, Kaye Donachie.
“Erdem’s language of poetic and modern femininity, and Donachie’s dreamlike painterly style” shape the atmosphere of the space, we’re told.
Large-scale printed panels feature Donachie’s expressive artwork, including reimagined portraits of Erdem’s mother. Plinths are delicately wrapped in details of Donachie’s abstract paintings “which become sculptural displays for encased jewellery and the Bloom bag”, available for the first time at Selfridges.
And in a “world-first” for de Savary London, the digital luxury outerwear brand has opened a pop-up store on the capital’s King’s Road, with landlord Sloane Stanley Estate reinforcing its reputation as a go-to destination for brands looking to trial physical retail.
The temporary store, which will open until the end of the year, covers a 1,644 sq ft space, featuring its full collection of leather jackets, wool coats, tops, and trousers.
This will be the brand’s first bricks-and-mortar presence giving its customers a “unique opportunity to shop the brand in person”.
Brand founder Natasha de Savary added: “The King’s Road is the perfect location for our first ever physical retail presence. de Savary London is defined by its craftsmanship and timeless design, and opening here, alongside such inspiring brands and with the support of Sloane Stanley, feels like a natural next step for us.”
This latest opening reflects a busy year of retail and pop-up activity across the Sloane Stanley Estate, which continues to attract digitally native brands exploring physical retail. Recent debut pop-ups include women’s fashion brand Minka Dink, which returned to the King’s Road for its second Chelsea pop-up, alongside other standout names such as Addison Ross, KayaNuka and Wiggy Kit.
Back into central London, accessories brand J&M Davidson has opened a flagship boutique within the prestigious Burlington Arcade.
It’s a permanent space designed by Milan-based architects Cotti & Trolese, the store’s “intentionally muted style… embraces a design language of restraint and subtle sophistication” to display its collection of bags and belts that fuse “British heritage and French elegance”.
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Wholesale revenue dropped 12.8 per cent on a currency-adjusted basis to €4.9 billion, while direct-to-consumer (DTC) sales increased 3.4 per cent, lifting the DTC share to 32.4 per cent from 28.9 per cent.
Regionally, sales fell 6.9 per cent in Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA), 7.4 per cent in Asia-Pacific and 10 per cent in the Americas, with North America driving much of the decline.
Puma has reported sales of €7.3 billion (~$8.61 billion) in FY25, with currency-adjusted revenue down 8.1 per cent amid strategic reset actions.
Wholesale declined while DTC share increased.
Margins contracted and EBIT turned negative, leading to a net loss.
Q4 saw sharper declines across regions and categories.
Puma expects further sales softness and negative EBIT in FY26.
By product segment, footwear sales decreased 7.1 per cent, apparel declined 9.7 per cent and accessories fell 8.5 per cent, although selective growth was observed in running, training and premium sport style lines, Puma said in a press release.
Profitability weakened significantly during the year. Gross margin contracted 260 basis points to 45.0 per cent, impacted by promotional activity, inventory reserves, unfavourable mix and currency effects. Adjusted EBIT turned negative at €165.6 million, while reported EBIT declined to -€357.2 million after €191.6 million in one-off costs related mainly to the cost efficiency programme and goodwill impairments.
Loss from continuing operations widened to -€643.6 million, translating to earnings per share of -€4.37 versus €1.88 in the prior year.
From a balance sheet perspective, inventories rose 2.3 per cent to €2.06 billion as inventory takebacks from wholesale partners supported distribution clean-up. Working capital increased 20.2 per cent, while trade receivables and payables declined sharply in line with reduced sales and purchasing activity. Puma ended the year with additional financing capacity, including €1,202.2 million in unutilised credit lines.
Fourth quarter (Q4) performance reflected the peak impact of the strategic reset. Currency-adjusted sales declined 20.7 per cent to €1,564.9 million, with reported revenue down 27.2 per cent due to currency headwinds. The decline was driven by deliberate reductions in wholesale exposure, inventory clearance actions and lower promotional intensity.
Wholesale sales fell 27.7 per cent in Q4, while DTC revenue decreased 8.0 per cent, although DTC share increased to 41.1 per cent from 35.5 per cent. Regionally, sales dropped 12.6 per cent in Asia-Pacific, 22.2 per cent in the Americas and 24.3 per cent in EMEA.
Across product divisions, footwear sales declined 25.4 per cent, apparel fell 13.7 per cent and accessories dropped 18.2 per cent, with selective resilience in training and performance running categories.
Profitability deteriorated sharply. Gross margin declined to 40.2 per cent from 47.7 per cent due to promotions, inventory provisions and currency effects. Adjusted EBIT fell to -€228.8 million, while reported EBIT reached -€307.7 million following one-off costs linked to restructuring and impairment charges. The quarter ended with a loss from continuing operations of -€335 million.
Arthur Hoeld, CEO of Puma, said: “2025 was a reset year for us. We want to establish Puma as a top 3 sports brand globally, return to above-industry growth and generate healthy profits in the medium term. It is crucial to make the Puma brand less commercial and ensure we once again excite our consumers with attractive products, compelling storytelling and distribution in the right channels. I am satisfied with the progress we have made so far. We cleaned up most of our distribution by reducing promotions in our own channels and cutting our exposure to those wholesale channels that damage our brand’s desirability. To better position our product icons and our performance offering and tell more engaging product stories, we created the right structures inside our company. We also addressed operational inefficiencies and further optimised our cost base.”
Looking ahead, Puma expects currency-adjusted sales in fiscal 2026 to decline in the low- to mid-single-digit percentage range, with EBIT projected between -€50 million and -€150 million. Capital expenditure of around €200 million is planned as the company continues investments in brand repositioning and digital capabilities, added the release.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Nominal GDP, or GDP at current prices, is estimated to grow at 8.6 per cent to reach ₹345.47 trillion in FY26 against ₹318.07 trillion in 2024-25.
India’s real GDP is estimated to grow at 7.6 per cent to ₹322.58 trillion (~$3.54 billion) in FY26 compared to the first revised GDP estimate of ₹299.89 trillion for FY25 (7.1 per cent growth).
It released the new series of annual and quarterly national accounts estimates with FY23 base.
Real GVA is projected to grow at 7.7 per cent to reach ₹294.40 trillion in FY26 against ₹273.36 trillion in FY25.
Real gross value added (GVA) is projected to grow at 7.7 per cent to reach ₹294.40 trillion in FY26 against ₹273.36 trillion in FY25 (a 7.3-per cent growth rate).
Nominal GVA is estimated to grow at 8.7 per cent to hit ₹313.61 trillion during FY26, against ₹288.54 lakh crore in 2024-25.
Robust economic performance in FY26 is primarily on account of robust real growth observed in the second quarter (8.4 per cent) and third quarter (7.8 per cent).
The manufacturing sector has been the major driver of resilient performance of the economy the consecutive three fiscals after rebasing, a release from the ministry said.
Both private final consumption expenditure and grossed fixed capital formation exhibited more than 7-per cent growth rate in FY26.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
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