Fashion
Erdem, de Savary open key London pop-ups, J&M Davidson takes Burlington Arcade space

Published
August 27, 2025
Erdem has opened an immersive pop-up installation at Selfridges London until mid-September as the British luxury brand preps for SS26 runway show at London Fashion Week on September 21.
The second floor atrium installation “presents a visual dialogue between fashion and art”, with a curated selection of ready-to-wear and accessories from Erdem’s Pre-Fall 2025 and AW25 collections.
It explores the inspiration behind the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2025 runway collection, created in collaboration with British contemporary artist, Kaye Donachie.
“Erdem’s language of poetic and modern femininity, and Donachie’s dreamlike painterly style” shape the atmosphere of the space, we’re told.
Large-scale printed panels feature Donachie’s expressive artwork, including reimagined portraits of Erdem’s mother. Plinths are delicately wrapped in details of Donachie’s abstract paintings “which become sculptural displays for encased jewellery and the Bloom bag”, available for the first time at Selfridges.
And in a “world-first” for de Savary London, the digital luxury outerwear brand has opened a pop-up store on the capital’s King’s Road, with landlord Sloane Stanley Estate reinforcing its reputation as a go-to destination for brands looking to trial physical retail.
The temporary store, which will open until the end of the year, covers a 1,644 sq ft space, featuring its full collection of leather jackets, wool coats, tops, and trousers.
This will be the brand’s first bricks-and-mortar presence giving its customers a “unique opportunity to shop the brand in person”.
Brand founder Natasha de Savary added: “The King’s Road is the perfect location for our first ever physical retail presence. de Savary London is defined by its craftsmanship and timeless design, and opening here, alongside such inspiring brands and with the support of Sloane Stanley, feels like a natural next step for us.”
This latest opening reflects a busy year of retail and pop-up activity across the Sloane Stanley Estate, which continues to attract digitally native brands exploring physical retail. Recent debut pop-ups include women’s fashion brand Minka Dink, which returned to the King’s Road for its second Chelsea pop-up, alongside other standout names such as Addison Ross, KayaNuka and Wiggy Kit.

Back into central London, accessories brand J&M Davidson has opened a flagship boutique within the prestigious Burlington Arcade.
It’s a permanent space designed by Milan-based architects Cotti & Trolese, the store’s “intentionally muted style… embraces a design language of restraint and subtle sophistication” to display its collection of bags and belts that fuse “British heritage and French elegance”.
Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Fashion
NITMA urges GST council to fix inverted textile duty as US tariffs hit

NITMA president Sidharth Khanna warned that the current inverted duty structure—where polyester staple fibre (PSF) is taxed at 18 per cent and polyester spun yarn (PSY) at 12 per cent while fabric is at 5 per cent—is unworkable for spinners. He urged a cut in PSF and PSY rates to 5 per cent to align with fabric.
India’s textile sector is under strain as steep US tariffs take effect today.
The Northern India Textile Mills Association (NITMA) has urged the GST Council, meeting on September 3–4, 2025, to address the inverted duty structure in the man-made fibre value chain by reducing GST on polyester staple fibre (18 per cent) and polyester spun yarn (12 per cent) to 5 per cent, aligning with fabric.
According to Khanna, the present system burdens the industry with blocked working capital in GST refunds, unutilised input tax credits, administrative delays, loss of state SGST incentives, and unfair competition from imports.
“This is a critical moment for India’s textile sector. Decisive action to remove the inverted duty structure will not only counteract the impact of US tariffs but also unlock growth and investment across the MMF value chain, thereby making this event a blessing in disguise,” Khanna stressed.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KD)
Fashion
CBI says UK retail sales have been weak in August

Published
August 28, 2025
A Deutsche Bank report this week has sent the share prices of a number of UK retailers down on the back of falling consumer confidence, and it looks like retailer confidence is low too if the latest CBI retail report is a guide.
First, a quick look at that Deutsche Bank report. It showed UK consumer confidence at a post-pandemic low and raised fears that autumn will be tough for discretionary retailers. Big names such as Next, M&S and Primark owner ABF saw their share prices falling with ABF’s price down as much as 6% in recent days.
It coincided with the latest CBI retailer survey that showed retail sales volumes “fell at a strong pace in the year to August, extending the downturn to an 11th consecutive month”.
That said, the business body reported retailers expecting the pace of decline to ease in September. So perhaps those share price falls may be reversed soon?
Regardless, the CBI report wasn’t exactly upbeat. It said weak demand and gloomy sentiment continue to weigh on retailers’ investment and hiring plans. Price pressures remain elevated, with selling prices rising at their fastest rate since November 2023.
Year-on-year retail sales volumes fell at a strong pace in August with a weighted balance of -32% from -34% in July. Sales are expected to decline at a slower rate next month (-16%).
First though, an explanation. Those figures don’t mean that the volume of sales fell by 34%. Instead, the weighted balance showed 34% of retailers saying their sales fell to one degree or another.
Back with the report, retail sales for the time of year were judged to be “poor”, to a somewhat greater extent than in July (-19% from -10% in July). Next month’s sales are set to remain below seasonal norms to a similar degree (-20%).
Sentiment among retailers remained poor, with their business situation expected to deteriorate over the coming quarter, but to a lesser extent than last quarter (-10% from -29% in May).
Retailers also expect to reduce capital expenditure over the next 12 months (compared to the previous 12) to a slightly lesser degree than in May (-42% from -47% in May), but intentions remain poor by historical standards (long-run average of -3%).
Meanwhile retail employment continued to decline at a broadly unchanged rate in the year to August (-14% from -15% in May). Headcount is expected to fall at a slightly quicker pace next month (-19%).
And the survey showed retail selling prices rose in the year to August at the fastest rate since November 2023 (+65% from +35% in May). Retailers anticipate selling prices to increase at a relatively slower pace in September (+43%).
Online retail sales volumes were broadly flat in the year to August (+3% from +4% in July) but are expected to contract at a fast rate in September (-35%).
Martin Sartorius, CBI Principal Economist, said of this: “Retailers endured another tough month in August. Weak demand and higher labour costs continue to put pressure on margins, dampening sentiment across the retail and wider distribution sector. This downbeat outlook is reflected in firms’ plans to scale back investment and hiring.
“The government’s fiscal decisions are continuing to bite, and retailers’ struggles send a clear signal: business cannot be asked to balance the books again at the Autumn Budget. Building business confidence through delivery must be the priority — starting with a rethink of the Employment Rights Bill, which risks piling on unnecessary costs and holding back jobs and investment.”
Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Fashion
Smythson opens at Liberty, Pulco at Harrods and Samsøe Samsøe at Selfridges

Published
August 28, 2025
Central London’s department stores continue to attract brands for pop-ups and permanent spaces with Selfridges, Harrods and Liberty all adding key names recently.
Luxury lifestyle brand Smythson of Bond Street has opened a new concession in the latter. It’s in Liberty’s homewares department on the third floor. The brand’s signature diaries, notebooks, and stationery, along with a selection of leather accessories and a curated edit of the brand’s bestselling bags are all on offer with personalisation also available.
The brands have developed an exclusive limited-edition range of Smythson x Liberty products with the first collection having just launched. There’s a selection of signature notebooks and diaries in Liberty Purple, Smythson’s Nile Blue, and a seasonal Coral colourway, each lined with a Liberty silk in coordinating colours. The second edit, launching in November, will feature a range of bestselling accessories.

Meanwhile UK-based padel apparel brand Pulco has debuted at Harrods, becoming the store’s first-ever padel clothing label, underlining the sport’s surging popularity.
Products on offer include the key Aircon shirt made from an ultra-lightweight, Italian-engineered fabric “featuring a breakthrough weave that rapidly wicks moisture from the inside out, delivering unrivalled breathability and comfort in play”.
But as well as performance-wear, there’s a full lifestyle offering “blending elevated athletic apparel with understated, off-court elegance”. That means shirts, shorts, hoodies, jackets, T-shirts, sweatpants, caps, socks and more. Retail prices range from £10 up to £165.

And back in the West End, Samsøe Samsøe has moved to a new space within Selfridges that presents the Scandinavian brand’s contemporary womenswear “within the universe of its experiential design”. The pop-up revolves around the AW25 collection that also inspires the space, “which emulates the immersive ‘Radiant Connection’ exhibition” that Samsøe Samsøe introduced the collection with during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Set against the backdrop of the exhibition’s set design and illustrated by the lookbook imagery of the season, the pop-up “becomes illuminated with the lime green shade that defines the visual identity” of the collection.
The brand said the pop-up is a “next step within Samsøe Samsøe’s ever-increasing focus on the UK market” and should help it reach new consumers.
Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
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