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After France, Italy squares up to Shein

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After France, Italy squares up to Shein


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AFP

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November 7, 2025

After its troubles in France, Shein faces more opposition in Italy, where the e-commerce giant is wooing shoppers in fashion capital Milan- but where the government and industry are mobilising.

Shein is known for its low cost clothing – REUTERS/Dado Ruvic/Illustration

“The textile sector is under attack,” Luca Sburlati, head of Italian fashion trade body Confindustria Moda, told AFP. “Hundreds of thousands of packages arrive in our homes every day. We must react.”

Italy is known for its high-end fashion, the home of global brands including Gucci and Prada, and the industry makes up around five percent of gross domestic product (GDP).

But cheap and cheerful clothes are as popular in Italy as the rest of Europe, including bought through Shein’s ultra-competitive platform.

Founded in China and now based in Singapore, Shein last month staged its first Italian catwalk show in Milan. The same week, the government hosted urgent talks on the impact of “ultra-fast fashion”.

Adolfo Urso, the minister for the “Made in Italy” brand, warned of “an “invasion of low-cost foreign products that harm our producers and put consumers at risk.”

The clothes industry is expected to present a new strategic plan for Italian fashion next week.

At the European Union level, the industry wants an end to the exemption from customs duties for packages worth under 150 euros ($173), following a similar charge in the US.

Critics warn of the environmental impact of clothes so cheap they can be worn once and thrown away, while Shein has also come under scrutiny for conditions at its textile factories.

This week, Italy’s government brought into law a European Union directive that seeks to improve transparency in sales, particularly on the environmental impact of products. Shein has already been sanctioned in this area in Italy and France.

The French government has said it was suspending the platform after outrage over its sale of childlike sex dolls. At the same time, nearly 8,000 people queued for the opening of Shein’s first permanent store, located in Paris’s BHV department store.

In style-conscious Milan, the platform is also hugely popular. “In Milan, you can’t go out if you’re not stylish,” Mattia Trebino told AFP at Shein’s fashion show last month.

The 24-year-old, who wore a faux-crocodile skin jacket, said he receives about four Shein packages every month. “These clothes, you can only wear them once or twice at most. But they’re really cheap,” he said.

Shein’s autumn/winter collection was inspired in part by 1980s Milan, featuring three-piece-suits and faux fur coats.

“The idea was to show that everyone can find their style at Shein- and to respond to our critics,” Luca Raveillon, the show’s French artistic director, told AFP. Gesturing to the collections, he said: “Look, it’s beautiful. It’s good quality, it fits perfectly. “We look great in it, and we can express ourselves with what we wear”- while keeping costs low, as “life is getting expensive”.

Alessia Tresoldi, a 27-year-old Italian influencer sat in the front row, shared images of the show with her one million Instagram followers. Shein “looks at what’s happening on the street”, she told AFP, and described the show as “amazing”.

The website offers a 100% polyester ‘fur’ coat from the show in 15 different colours, starting at 28 euros with free shipping. Boosted by such low prices, European consumers buy 60% more clothing than they did in 2000, and keep it for half as long, according to an October report by consultants The European House-Ambrosetti.

The study’s author, Carlo Cici, said the European fashion industry must innovate more to stand out. “Consumers are very interested in sustainability but aren’t willing to pay for it,” he wrote.

Copyright © 2025 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.



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Fashion

South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand

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South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand



In the Mumbai market, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged as the loom sector slowed production. Although spinning mills are looking to raise their selling rates, they have not found sufficient demand. A Mumbai-based trader told Fibre*Fashion, “Power and auto looms are facing limited fabric buying from the garment industry. Export prospects are still unclear. Domestic demand is also insufficient to support any price rise. Mills are comfortable with falling cotton prices, while buyers remain silent on yarn purchases.”

In Mumbai, ** carded yarn of warp and weft varieties were traded at ****;*,****,*** (~$**.****.**) and ****;*,****,*** per * kg (~$**.****.**) (excluding GST), respectively. Other prices include ** combed warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, ** carded weft at ****;*,****,*** (~$**.****.** per *.* kg, **/** carded warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, **/** carded warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg and **/** combed warp at ****;****** (~$*.***.**) per kg, according to trade sources.



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Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India

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Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India



The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding, which could allow near zero-tariff access for Bangladeshi garments to the American market subject to specific riders, has triggered debate within India’s textile and apparel industry. The real gains from zero tariffs may be limited due to high freight costs, longer lead times, and insufficient capacity in Bangladesh’s spinning and weaving/knitting sectors.

Bangladesh is already among the top suppliers of apparel to the US, particularly in basic knit and woven categories such as T-shirts, trousers and sweaters. A tariff advantage, even if modest, could sharpen its price competitiveness in high-volume, price-sensitive segments dominated by mass retailers.

The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding offering near zero-tariff access for garments has sparked debate in India’s textile sector.
While Bangladesh may gain a price edge in basic apparel, industry leaders believe the effective advantage could be limited to 2–3 per cent due to raw material dependence, capacity constraints and logistics costs.

However, Indian industry leaders argue that the net gain for Bangladesh may be restricted to around 2–3 per cent in effective competitiveness. They point to structural constraints, including Bangladesh’s heavy reliance on imported raw materials. A significant share of its fabric and yarn requirements is sourced from China and India, limiting flexibility in rules-of-origin compliance if strict value-addition conditions are attached to the deal.

Capacity limitations in spinning, weaving and man-made fibre processing are also seen as bottlenecks. While Bangladesh has built scale in garmenting, its upstream integration remains narrower than India’s diversified fibre-to-fashion base. Indian exporters emphasise that integrated supply chains offer advantages in speed, customisation and smaller batch production.

Logistics and lead times may further temper expectations. Distance from major US ports, coupled with infrastructure pressures and global shipping volatility, could offset part of the tariff benefit. In contrast, Indian suppliers have been investing in port connectivity, digital compliance systems and flexible production models to strengthen reliability.

Industry representatives also highlight that US buyers are increasingly factoring in sustainability, traceability and geopolitical risk. India’s growing adoption of renewable energy in textile clusters, compliance with global standards and broader product depth may help it retain strategic sourcing partnerships.

While some diversion of orders in basic categories cannot be ruled out, exporters believe the overall impact will be incremental rather than disruptive. The consensus view is that tariff preference alone is unlikely to override considerations of scale, compliance, diversification and long-term supply-chain resilience.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)



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US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole

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US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole



United States (US) Senator Bill Cassidy, along with Senator Sheldon Whitehouse, have introduced the ‘Last Sale Valuation Act,’ legislation aimed at closing a long-standing customs loophole that allows importers to underpay duties by declaring goods at artificially low values. The act would require tariffs to be assessed on the final sale value of imported goods rather than earlier transactions in complex overseas supply chains.

“This bill protects Louisiana workers and American businesses, ensuring loopholes don’t hold them back,” Dr Cassidy said in a press release.

US Senators Bill Cassidy and Sheldon Whitehouse have introduced the Last Sale Valuation Act to close the ‘first sale’ customs loophole that lets importers underpay duties.
The bipartisan bill would base tariffs on final sale values, strengthen US Customs enforcement and curb duty evasion.
Supporters say it will protect American manufacturers, workers and federal revenue.

If passed, the bipartisan measure would grant clearer enforcement authority to US Customs and Border Protection (CBP), streamline valuation reviews and reduce disputes over documentation, while curbing mis-invoicing and related-party pricing schemes linked to tariff evasion and illicit financial activity.

The legislation has drawn support from the American Compass, the Coalition for a Prosperous America and the Southern Shrimp Alliance.

“Cassidy’s ‘Last Sale Valuation Act’ strengthens customs valuation by assessing duties on the final transaction value of goods entering the US,” said Mark A DiPlacido, senior political economist at the American Compass, adding that closing the judicially created ‘first sale’ loophole would reduce duty evasion, simplify enforcement and increase customs revenue.

Jon Toomey, president of the Coalition for a Prosperous America, said the bill is “an important first step in restoring customs integrity,” ensuring duties are paid on the true commercial value of imported goods and helping level the playing field for American manufacturers and workers.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)



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