Fashion
Davii and Pé de Chumbo present catwalk shows at a decommissioned former metro station in Milan
Published
September 29, 2025
On Saturday, September 27, the Luso-Brazilian label Davii and Pé de Chumbo—the brand of Portuguese designer Alexandra Oliveira, who handcrafts unique textiles for her exclusive pieces—unveiled their spring-summer 2026 collections at the Major Virtual Tunnel, a decommissioned metro station that is establishing itself as an avant-garde venue and, for the first time, hosted presentations connected to Milan Fashion Week.
Davii and Pé de Chumbo presented their collections at the invitation of Portugal Fashion, as part of the official calendar of presentations in the Italian capital of fashion and design, thus marking “the second stop on Portugal Fashion’s international calendar, after London and before the debut of its own showroom in Paris, confirming the consistency of the project’s internationalisation strategy,” the Porto runway organisation explained in a statement.
“Between Davii’s architectural and conceptual precision and Pé de Chumbo’s artisanal identity, Portugal Fashion presented two complementary visions that attested to the richness of the national ecosystem,”

As part of the official Milan calendar, the two labels, representative of the excellence of Made in Portugal, staged different moments of ‘catwalk performance’, with Davii showing its proposals at 3:15 pm and 4:30 pm, and Pé de Chumbo performing at 4:00 pm and 5:15 pm, “creating a dynamic in which Portuguese fashion asserted itself in an immersive register and in direct dialogue with journalists, buyers and industry professionals,” the note continued.
Davii opted for black and white in veiled monochrome looks, cut in light, diaphanous fabrics that evoked, at once, the bittersweet aura of Vestal Virgins from Classical Antiquity, intertwined with medieval warriors and contemporary Amazons, and asserted that women’s power goes far beyond the femininity and sensuality imposed by male-dominated societies.

The Brazilian designer based in Portugal—now with a foothold in Italy and China, where he divides his time—brought to his work the beauty and strong character of those thoughtful, ancestral women with clear ideas who acted discreetly, in silence and almost anonymously, echoing figures such as “Lady with an Ermine” and “La Belle Ferronière”, masterpieces by Leonardo da Vinci that mark the dawn of the Renaissance in Italy.
Entitled “Reimagined Forms”, his new collection explores a contemporary avant-garde with deep roots—the most forward-thinking of every era—through an aesthetic that merges with the organic, fluid forms of nature. Davii combines neoprene, silk organza and leather in these sculptural, ethereal pieces that define the brand, reaffirming its position in the realm of contemporary conceptual experimentation.

Pé de Chumbo, for its part, makes its debut on the official Milan calendar with the “Femme” collection, also in
tribute to this “feminine duality that has balanced power and fragility, courage and sensuality”, the press release noted.
The collection favoured “intricate lace worked in robust yarns, references to corsets and daring cuts” in pieces that “evoke memory and tradition”, while also unfolding into bold silhouettes suggested by these singular, novel materials—without neglecting the dictates of fashion, especially those of the 1980s and 1990s—and the aesthetics, legacy and savoir-faire of northern Portugal, while drawing on a broader palette of neutral tones and vibrant, metallic colours.

“True to its identity, the brand asserted itself through the artisanal manipulation of raw materials and by controlling the entire production process in its own factory, a distinctive element on the international scene,” show notes continued.
According to Mónica Neto, director of Portugal Fashion: “Milan has been a strategic platform for Portugal fashion to assert itself. This edition reinforced that role, with Davii and Pé de Chumbo underlining the consistency of our presence on the official calendar and demonstrating the creative and productive vitality that makes Made in Portugal a trusted reference in the global market,” she concluded.

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Fashion
Tiruppur gains from FTA: Zero UK, EU duty to boost exports
In February, Fibre*Fashion reported, citing an Investment Information and Credit Rating Agency report, that the India–EU FTA pushes for eliminating the duties on shipments from India and giving the country a competitive edge against competitors such as Bangladesh and Vietnam, who have so far enjoyed free entry into the EU region.
The FTA between India and the EU is expected to come into effect sometime in early January and with the United Kingdom in June or July this year. CEO of The Synerg, Karthikeyan Shanmugam, said in an interview with Fibre*Fashion that the future is quite good for India’s textile industry as the FTAs come into place.
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Sosandar reported FY26 revenue of £42.3 million (~$57.53 million), up 14 per cent, driven by strong online growth, with own-site sales rising 24 per cent.
The company returned to profitability with PBT of £0.4 million (~$0.54 million) and improved margins.
Despite slightly missing revenue expectations, performance remained solid.
Strong third-party sales supported confidence in profitable growth.
Sosandar noted strong performance across all categories, from occasion wear to casual collections, reflecting its ability to translate trends into its distinctive design aesthetic.
Profitability improved significantly during the year, with profit before tax expected to reach £0.4 million (~$0.54 million), compared to a loss of £0.1 million in FY25. Gross margin also strengthened to 63.9 per cent from 62.1 per cent, highlighting the company’s focus on margin enhancement and operational efficiency. Sosandar ended the year with net cash of £8.4 million, even after £1.8 million in share buybacks, up from £7.3 million a year earlier, Sosandar said in a press release.
The company noted that market expectations ahead of the announcement had been set at revenue of £43.1 million and profit before tax of £0.4 million for FY26, indicating that profitability is in line with forecasts, while revenue came in slightly below expectations.
The brand continued to perform strongly across third-party platforms, particularly with NEXT, reinforcing its position as a leading womenswear label in the UK market. Trading with Marks & Spencer also began to normalise following earlier disruptions, with stock intake returning to expected levels.
Sosandar’s physical retail presence delivered a positive uplift, with stores entering their second year of trading and locations in market towns performing particularly well. However, the company noted that stores are still weighing on overall profitability as they mature, especially those located in shopping centres. As a result, no new store openings are planned in the near term, with a focus instead on improving profitability at existing locations.
Looking ahead, the board expressed confidence in the company’s strategy, emphasising that strong foundations are in place to deliver sustainable, profitable and cash-generative growth.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
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Sri Lanka’s manufacturing PMI surges: Textiles drive March gains
Firms also increased stock purchases to support rising output, with some resorting to precautionary inventory building amid concerns over disruptions linked to the ongoing Middle East conflict, the Central Bank of Sri Lanka said in a press release.
Sri Lanka’s manufacturing PMI surged to 66.7 in March from 56.8 in February, driven by strong gains in new orders and production, particularly in apparel.
Firms raised inventories amid Middle East-related risks.
However, supply constraints, rising costs, and logistics issues persisted, with delivery times worsening.
Employment growth slowed.
Outlook remains positive.
Despite robust demand, manufacturers reported a constrained operating environment due to raw material and fuel shortages, rising input costs, and logistical challenges. Supplier delivery times lengthened significantly to 75.5, reflecting shipping disruptions and demand pressures. Employment rose at a slower pace, indicating cautious hiring despite increased workloads.
Looking ahead, business expectations for the next quarter remain positive across sectors, supported by seasonal trends and emerging opportunities. However, concerns persist over the impact of the Middle East conflict, supply disruptions, and broader global economic uncertainty, which may weigh on future momentum.
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