Fashion
Despite a 3.1% contraction in 2025, Italy’s footwear sector sees the light at the end of the tunnel
Published
December 23, 2025
Despite the persistent crisis affecting the fashion sector, the Italian footwear industry is beginning to show signs of recovery, even as it closes the year down 3.1%: the third quarter, in fact, ended with a 0.9% decline, “a markedly better result than the steep contractions experienced in the first half of the year,” notes a press release from Assocalzaturifici.
“The current overall picture remains complex and spares not even the highest end of the market, but the third-quarter figures point to a slowing of the decline and a first glimmer of light at the end of the recessionary tunnel,” said Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici. “Despite the lack of significant improvements on the geopolitical front, our companies’ ability to maintain a strong foothold in European markets and to capture demand in the most dynamic areas, such as the Middle East, is key to navigating 2026. Although business performance is uneven, with several firms still under strain, the modest downturn expected in full-year revenue (estimated at 12.8 billion euros) confirms the resilience of Made in Italy.”
On the foreign trade front, exports reached 7.72 billion euros (-1.3%) in the first eight months of 2025. The most significant figure concerns volumes: 131.8 million pairs were sold abroad, up 4.3%. This recovery in volume was accompanied by a normalisation of average prices (58.58 euros per pair, -5.3%), signalling a correction after the double-digit increases of 2022/2023.
The EU (which takes seven out of every ten pairs exported) is growing in both value (+2.2%) and volume (+7.6%). Germany stands out with a solid 6% rise in value and 10% in pairs, while positive results were also recorded in Spain, Poland, Belgium, and Austria. Outside the EU, the Middle East remains the most dynamic region, with overall value up 13%, driven by a surge in the United Arab Emirates (+20%). Turkey and Mexico also performed well. The Far East, by contrast, remains under pressure, with a contraction of more than 20% in both volume and value, affected by the sharp slowdown recorded in China (-24.6% in value) as well as in all the other main Asian markets (Hong Kong, Japan,and South Korea), and by the CIS region (-9.2%, with -17.8% in Russia), still hampered by the conflict.
“The US market remains under close watch, with the eight-month period closing up 2.9% in value against a decline in volumes (-4.2%). The sector is cautiously assessing the impact of the tariffs set under the US-EU agreement: while August registered a discouraging -17.8% in value, preliminary September data show a responsiveness that was, in some respects, unexpected. To date, 55% of member companies exporting to the US judge the effects of the tariffs to be far from negligible, with one in five companies facing severe difficulties,” the note concludes.
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Fashion
South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand
In the Mumbai market, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged as the loom sector slowed production. Although spinning mills are looking to raise their selling rates, they have not found sufficient demand. A Mumbai-based trader told Fibre*Fashion, “Power and auto looms are facing limited fabric buying from the garment industry. Export prospects are still unclear. Domestic demand is also insufficient to support any price rise. Mills are comfortable with falling cotton prices, while buyers remain silent on yarn purchases.”
In Mumbai, ** carded yarn of warp and weft varieties were traded at ****;*,***–*,*** (~$**.**–**.**) and ****;*,***–*,*** per * kg (~$**.**–**.**) (excluding GST), respectively. Other prices include ** combed warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, ** carded weft at ****;*,***–*,*** (~$**.**–**.** per *.* kg, **/** carded warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, **/** carded warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg and **/** combed warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, according to trade sources.
Fashion
Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India
Bangladesh is already among the top suppliers of apparel to the US, particularly in basic knit and woven categories such as T-shirts, trousers and sweaters. A tariff advantage, even if modest, could sharpen its price competitiveness in high-volume, price-sensitive segments dominated by mass retailers.
The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding offering near zero-tariff access for garments has sparked debate in India’s textile sector.
While Bangladesh may gain a price edge in basic apparel, industry leaders believe the effective advantage could be limited to 2–3 per cent due to raw material dependence, capacity constraints and logistics costs.
However, Indian industry leaders argue that the net gain for Bangladesh may be restricted to around 2–3 per cent in effective competitiveness. They point to structural constraints, including Bangladesh’s heavy reliance on imported raw materials. A significant share of its fabric and yarn requirements is sourced from China and India, limiting flexibility in rules-of-origin compliance if strict value-addition conditions are attached to the deal.
Capacity limitations in spinning, weaving and man-made fibre processing are also seen as bottlenecks. While Bangladesh has built scale in garmenting, its upstream integration remains narrower than India’s diversified fibre-to-fashion base. Indian exporters emphasise that integrated supply chains offer advantages in speed, customisation and smaller batch production.
Logistics and lead times may further temper expectations. Distance from major US ports, coupled with infrastructure pressures and global shipping volatility, could offset part of the tariff benefit. In contrast, Indian suppliers have been investing in port connectivity, digital compliance systems and flexible production models to strengthen reliability.
Industry representatives also highlight that US buyers are increasingly factoring in sustainability, traceability and geopolitical risk. India’s growing adoption of renewable energy in textile clusters, compliance with global standards and broader product depth may help it retain strategic sourcing partnerships.
While some diversion of orders in basic categories cannot be ruled out, exporters believe the overall impact will be incremental rather than disruptive. The consensus view is that tariff preference alone is unlikely to override considerations of scale, compliance, diversification and long-term supply-chain resilience.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)
Fashion
US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole
“This bill protects Louisiana workers and American businesses, ensuring loopholes don’t hold them back,” Dr Cassidy said in a press release.
US Senators Bill Cassidy and Sheldon Whitehouse have introduced the Last Sale Valuation Act to close the ‘first sale’ customs loophole that lets importers underpay duties.
The bipartisan bill would base tariffs on final sale values, strengthen US Customs enforcement and curb duty evasion.
Supporters say it will protect American manufacturers, workers and federal revenue.
If passed, the bipartisan measure would grant clearer enforcement authority to US Customs and Border Protection (CBP), streamline valuation reviews and reduce disputes over documentation, while curbing mis-invoicing and related-party pricing schemes linked to tariff evasion and illicit financial activity.
The legislation has drawn support from the American Compass, the Coalition for a Prosperous America and the Southern Shrimp Alliance.
“Cassidy’s ‘Last Sale Valuation Act’ strengthens customs valuation by assessing duties on the final transaction value of goods entering the US,” said Mark A DiPlacido, senior political economist at the American Compass, adding that closing the judicially created ‘first sale’ loophole would reduce duty evasion, simplify enforcement and increase customs revenue.
Jon Toomey, president of the Coalition for a Prosperous America, said the bill is “an important first step in restoring customs integrity,” ensuring duties are paid on the true commercial value of imported goods and helping level the playing field for American manufacturers and workers.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)
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