Fashion
Global air freight grows in Aug, yet pricing pressures deepen

Despite steady growth in demand, accompanied by a 4 per cent YoY increase in available capacity, global average spot rates fell for the fourth straight month, slipping 3 per cent to $2.55 per kg in August. The decline is likely sharper once currency effects are considered, with the US dollar losing 4 per cent against other currencies in the past year, Xeneta said in a press release.
Shift in trade flows may also be weighing on rates. For example, China–US air cargo was priced at $4.3 per kg in August, but many e-commerce shipments were re-directed to the China–Europe corridor due to US de minimis bans, where rates stood at $3.65 per kg. Such reallocation drags down the global average. A 7 per cent drop in jet-fuel prices may also have helped ease airlines’ costs, muting pressure on rates for now.
Global air cargo demand grew 5 per cent YoY in August for a second month, but spot rates fell 3 per cent to $2.55 per kg, reflecting fragile market conditions.
Trade shifts, US de minimis bans, and a 7 per cent drop in jet fuel shaped flows, while e-commerce offered support.
Analysts caution uncertainty, weak sentiment, and tariff impacts may hinder sustainable growth despite current demand resilience.
The rate decline extended across most major trade lanes, with Southeast Asia–North America and Europe routes seeing the sharpest falls, down over 20 per cent YoY to $4.8 and $3.05 per kg, respectively, as capacity pressures eased. Northeast Asia performed slightly better, with rates to North America down 8 per cent YoY at $4.76 per kg and to Europe holding steady at $4.01 per kg, though backhaul prices slipped 13 per cent on continued trade imbalances. The Transatlantic corridor was the only exception, recording a 5 per cent YoY rise to $1.82 per kg, albeit a marked slowdown from July’s near 20 per cent surge.
“It is often said that airfreight is a bellwether for macroeconomics, but I don’t think it is at the moment,” said Niall van de Wouw, chief airfreight officer at Xeneta. “Right now, volumes are certainly not as bad as people feared, but also not as good as people hoped. In our April data, on the back on the US administration’s ‘Liberation Day’ tariffs announcement, we asked ‘how bad will it get?’ for air cargo demand. We still cannot answer that question.”
“More than ever, shippers are falling into three categories right now,” added van de Wouw. “There are those who will always say ‘no way’ to airfreight because their products simply cannot justify the higher cost of air versus ocean freight. Then there are traditional air cargo customers who always ship goods by air because of its speed and value for their high-priced or more perishable or time-sensitive products. Between these two views sits a bigger group of shippers who will use ocean to move their goods if they can, and airfreight if they must. It is this segment of the market which is driving the upturn in airfreight demand we are seeing.”
E-commerce has been a stabilising force since 2023, driving double-digit monthly growth in 2024. But the removal of the US de minimis threshold for duty-free imports is reshaping flows. While aimed at large Chinese platforms, the changes affect B2B shipments significantly, adding administrative burdens and costs.
“Many SMEs are reacting to these changes, and while B2C may remain resilient, B2B flows will face greater challenges,” van de Wouw observed.
Looking ahead, Xeneta warns that falling purchasing managers’ indices in major exporting economies, weakening US consumer sentiment, and the end of de minimis exemptions will continue to add volatility.
“Uncertainty seems set to remain with so many questions unanswered. The predictions are concerning but, because of this uncertainty, the hurt for airfreight has been softened and delayed. For how much longer anyone’s guess,” van de Wouw concluded.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
Rising costs, Employment Rights Bill threaten jobs, growth: UK survey

Against a backdrop of falling vacancies and rising unemployment, business confidence in the UK labour market remains low.
The UK labour market is facing mounting pressures as businesses grapple with rising costs, regulatory changes and an increasingly challenging economic environment, the annual Confederation of British Industry-Pertemps Employment Trends Survey revealed.
Business confidence in the labour market is low.
Companies are warning that the cumulative cost of doing business is a major threat to competitiveness.
Companies are warning that the cumulative cost of doing business is a major threat to the United Kingdom’s current and future competitiveness with jobs, investment and future pay rises at risk.
Eight-six per cent of respondents believe the UK labour market is a less attractive place to invest and do business compared to five years ago, with 54 per cent ranking it as ‘much less’ attractive; 82 per cent expect this trend to continue.
Labour costs rank as the top threat to current labour market competitiveness and was selected by 73 per cent of respondents. The impact of employment regulation on flexibility ranked second (65 per cent), followed by access to skills (58 per cent).
The main drivers of concern about the cost of employing people are national insurance contributions (NICs) and costs coming from the Employment Rights Bill (selected by 69 per cent and 53 per cent of respondents respectively), a CBI release said.
Seventy-eight per cent believes the bill will hit growth, investment, jobs and discretionary employee benefits. This concern has grown since last year when half of firms (54 per cent) were worried.
Twenty-seven per cent of respondents expect their organisation will be smaller than it is today in twelve months’ time, slightly more than the proportion intending to grow (26 per cent).
Taken together, the increase in NICs and the past three National Living Wage increases add up to an additional cost of over £24 billion for businesses each year.
Seventy-three per cent respondents believe labour costs are a threat to current UK labour market competitiveness. This is the first time that labour costs have ranked as the top threat to labour market competitiveness since the question was first surveyed.
Sixty-nine per cent identify the recent NICs rise as one of the top three biggest cost threats to UK labour market competitiveness, followed by the implementation of the Employment Rights Bill (53 per cent).
Businesses want to see government build a consensus about how to deliver the Employment Rights Bill so that it supports growth.
The survey also highlights how the current approach to growth and skills levy reform is hurting businesses’ ability to invest in skills and deliver training. Sixty-seven per cent believe that the absence of a clear road map for eligible training courses will hinder workforce planning.
Half of the respondents believe that continued rigidity in the levy is stopping their organisation from being able to deliver training to address skills gaps.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
ONLY, RE&UP, Deniz Partner to Advance Circular Fashion

This initiative from ONLY underscores BESTSELLER’s strategic focus on reducing the need for virgin materials, including polyester. The project is a collaborative effort between ONLY, materials textile-to-textile recycling company RE&UP, and Turkish garment supplier Deniz.
Bestseller’s ONLY has partnered with RE&UP and Deniz to create garments using textile-to-textile recycled polyester and cotton from worn-out clothes and factory waste.
The project reduces virgin polyester usage while maintaining performance and durability, aligning with Bestseller’s focus on scalable, innovative recycling solutions for its popular NOOS and other collections.
Several of BESTSELLER’s major brands are actively integrating recycled materials into their existing collections, including the popular “Never Out Of Stock” (NOOS) range, known for its classic, timeless basics that transcend seasons and trends.
This enables us to create garments made from worn-out clothing and factory textile waste, while offering the same performance and durability as if it were made from virgin polyester. Pernille Tøttrup Sourcing Process Manager, ONLY.
Ideally, recycled polyester is sourced from textile-to-textile recycling processes. BESTSELLER is investing in and partnering with several innovative technology companies in this field to ensure both innovation and scalability.
RE&UP, specialised in next-gen textile-to-textile recycling, uses a combination of mechanical and thermo-chemical processes. Their modular technology is capable of separating cotton and polyester and regenerating them into ‘new’ high-quality recycled cotton and recycled polyester.
Innovation and quality
“RE&UP shares our dedication to innovation and quality, and their textile-to-textile recycled polyester meets the high standards we set for our products. This enables us to create garments made from worn-out clothing and factory textile waste, while offering the same performance and durability as if it were made from virgin polyester,” says Pernille Tøttrup, Sourcing Process Manager at ONLY.
In the initial production run, 11 styles have been converted from conventional polyester to RE&UP next-gen recycled polyester. This equates to more than 100,000 t-shirts. RE&UP is currently scaling its capacity, with the ambition to process 1 million tonnes of textile waste by 2030.
“This collaboration shows that textile-to-textile recycling is not a distant ambition, it’s already delivering industry-ready, cost-competitive fibres. Transforming the industry is undoubtedly a complex and lengthy process, but by working with partners like ONLY, we demonstrate how recycled polyester from textile waste can be a real and scalable alternative to virgin materials,” says Ozgur Atsan, CCO at RE&UP.
150,000 jackets
Earlier this year, BESTSELLER menswear brand JACK & JONES also successfully converted a NOOS bumper jacket to recycled polyester made from textile waste. This involved their best-selling style ‘Rush’, translating to 150,000 garments.
“We are actively reshaping our approach to materials, prioritising a shift from conventional to organic cotton and from virgin to recycled polyester,” explains BESTSELLER’s Head of Sustainability, Dorte Rye Olsen. She adds:
“In an ideal world, all textiles would become part of a circular production system once they are worn out. Here, we see examples of how this can be achieved. At the same time, we are aware that there is still a long way to go. Therefore, alongside exploring and investing in textile-to-textile solutions, we’re currently also expanding our use of recycled materials from other waste feedstocks.”
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
Fashion
Initio Parfums Privés puts neuroscience at the heart of its customer journey

Translated by
Nazia BIBI KEENOO
Published
September 16, 2025
The French niche fragrance house Initio Parfums Privés unveils its latest innovation: Feel Lab Experience, an experiment that combines perfumery, neuroscience, and artificial intelligence.
Developed in partnership with Feel’Tech by Micropole, BrainCo, and the Harvard Innovation Lab, this experience invites customers to explore their emotional responses to a fragrance. Specifically, customers are invited to wear an electroencephalography (EEG) headband fitted with sensors that record their brain activity during the discovery session. The brainwaves captured are analyzed, revealing unconscious preferences and the degree of well-being elicited by a fragrance — a process which, the brand notes, does not replace the consumer’s final choice.
The initiative is being introduced this month at Initio Parfums Privés’ Paris flagship, ahead of a selective international rollout.
For Initio, this marks another step in a strategy that treats perfume as an emotional and immersive experience. In April, the house formalized a partnership with dsm-firmenich, one of the leading suppliers of fragrance ingredients, to deepen research into the interactions between olfactory molecules and emotions.
This momentum comes against a favorable backdrop for the Sprecher Berrier Group of Companies, parent company of Initio and Parfums de Marly. The group, which recorded retail sales of $775 million for the year ended March 31, 2025 (a 41% increase), is preparing the next stage of its development with the arrival of Patrice Béliard as CEO on October 1. The former Shiseido and Estée Lauder executive will succeed Julien Sausset, who has been the driving force behind the strong expansion of both brands since 2016.
Buoyed by 50% growth in retail sales over the year, to $189 million, Initio Parfums Privés reaffirms its ambition to unite luxury, innovation, and cognitive science to strengthen its foothold in the global niche perfumery market.
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