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Lab-grown gems are robbing Botswana of its diamond riches

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Lab-grown gems are robbing Botswana of its diamond riches


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Bloomberg

Published



September 2, 2025

Across Botswana the lines of patients outside government clinics are lengthening, construction companies dependent on state jobs are firing workers and university students are threatening to boycott lectures after not getting the allowance increases they were promised.

Bloomberg

The economic slowdown is a sharp reversal from just a few years ago when the world’s richest diamond deposits allowed the sparsely-populated desert nation of 2.5 million people to invest in free and efficient healthcare and plow money into funding tertiary education for students both at home and abroad. Its robust finances allowed it to provide for its citizens in a way that made it the envy of southern Africa. 

The discovery of gems in 1967 transformed what was a rural backwater with, at the time of independence from the UK a year earlier, only a few miles of tarred road into the richest nation per capita on the sub-Saharan African mainland. Six decades later a diamond-market crisis has turned that find into an affliction and a cautionary tale of what can happen to an economy that becomes overly reliant on one commodity. 

“For decades, we have leaned and relied heavily on diamonds. While they served us well, we know painfully today that this model has reached its limits,” President Duma Boko, 55, said in an August speech. “This is no longer an economic challenge alone; it is a national social existential threat.”

The market for natural diamonds is in crisis, with cut-price lab-grown equivalents hitting demand particularly hard in the US, the biggest market for the gems. They accounted for almost half of engagement ring purchases last year compared with 5% in 2019, according to jewelry insurer BriteCo Inc. The collapse of the luxury retail sector in China and the impact US tariffs have had on trade have also hurt the industry.

While lab gems can be produced in weeks or months, the formation of natural diamonds, made of crystallized carbon formed under extreme pressure and heat deep beneath the earth’s surface, can take billions of years before volcanic eruptions propel them upwards to depths where they can be mined or found on ocean or river beds.  They also cost many times as much as their synthetic rivals.Their increasing popularity is creating the biggest disruption in the market since abundant alluvial diamonds were discovered on Namibia’s beaches early last century, causing prices to plunge, according to mining historian Duncan Money. 

It’s choking off the revenue that accounts for 80% of Botswana’s exports and a third of government income. After repeated write-downs of its value Anglo American Plc is looking to sell De Beers, the world’s biggest diamond company that mines almost all of Botswana’s gems in a venture with the government.

Boko’s administration, which in October displaced a political party that had ruled since independence, is scrambling.

In July, the government engaged Malaysia’s PEMANDU Associates to advise on accelerating economic diversification and on Aug. 21 Boko took to Facebook to announce a plan for a little-known Qatari group, Al Mansour Holdings, to invest $12 billion. There was scant information about how the capital will be deployed and the same group has in recent weeks promised more than $100 billion in investment across six African countries, raising questions about the credibility of the pledge. 

The president on Aug. 25 declared a public health emergency and implored pension funds and insurers to help fund the response. Government has frozen recruitment and there are shortages of medication, medical supplies and equipment, according to Kefilwe Selema, president of the Botswana Doctors Union. 

“The situation is very bad,” said Galeemiswe Mosheti, a 42-year-old diabetes-sufferer who arrives at a government clinic in the capital Gaborone, at 8 a.m. and can wait as long as eight hours for his medicine compared with just an hour a year ago. “We’re spending long periods in the queue and our jobs suffer,’’ said the taxi driver who loses income every time he fetches waits to be attended to.

For construction companies dependent on government work the situation is no better. 

“Most of our members have had to retrench workers,” said Tshotlego Kagiso, chairman of the Tshipidi Badiri Builders Association, the country’s largest building contractors organization, which before the current downturn had more than 800 members, some of whom can no longer afford their membership fees.

“The majority have suspended operations and many have closed altogether due to slower government spending,” he added, saying thousands of workers have lost their jobs without being able to be more specific.

The country’s economic statistics tell a story of rapid decline and belie De Beers’ marketing catchphrase, ‘A diamond is forever.’ 

The International Monetary Fund forecast Botswana’s 2025 fiscal deficit climbing to 11% of gross domestic product. That’s the largest budget gap since the global financial crisis in 2009, and the biggest in sub-Saharan Africa this year. Government debt will rocket to 43% of GDP in 2025, about doubling the ratio in just two years, according to data from the Washington-based lender, and exceeding a legislative limit.

In June, the finance ministry abandoned a forecast of 3.3% growth in 2025 and instead said the economy may contract 0.4%, foreign reserves have slumped 27% over the last year and Citigroup Inc. in July forecast Botswana will need to keep devaluing its managed currency, the pula. A first ever mid-term budget review is planned for as early as next month and Debswana, the country’s joint venture with De Beers, is operating at about 60% of capacity.

Botswana is “experiencing a significant decline in revenue inflows resulting in massive liquidity challenges that threaten financial stability and sustainability of government business operations,” Finance Ministry Permanent Secretary Tshokologo Kganetsano told a parliamentary committee in June.

Already, after years of limited borrowing, the country is turning to debt. It secured $304 million from the African Development Bank in May and $200 million from the OPEC fund in July and plans a domestic bond roadshow for investors on Tuesday. Its investment grade credit rating, the highest in Africa, is under threat with both Moody’s and S&P Global Ratings this year cutting its outlook to negative. 

“The diamond sector is under severe pressure — both prices and volumes,” Ravi Bhatia, director and lead analyst at S&P Global Ratings, said in an interview. “They’re doing a combination of trying to diversify, fiscal consolidation and also austerity.”

While Botswana’s governments have been talking about economic diversification since the country’s first president, Seretse Khama, set up the Botswana Development Corp. in 1970 to develop copper mining and beef production, little progress has been made. 

Tourism, focused on luxury safaris in the country’s Okavango Delta wetlands and a wilderness that boasts the world’s largest elephant population, is the second-biggest contributor after diamonds, accounting for just 12% of GDP. Some copper mines are being developed while huge coal deposits, barely exploited, can no longer attract the funding needed for extraction. 

That’s left more than two fifths of the population under the age of 24 unemployed, according to the International Labour Organization, with the diamond mines only employing a few thousand people, and reliant on government largesse. That’s a situation Boko described as “a huge risk,” in a January interview with Bloomberg. 

“We must now focus on job creation,” Boko said as he laid out ambitious plans for investment in renewable energy, technology and agriculture. 

What he hadn’t bargained for was that there would be no money to pay for it.

While many other countries are reliant on a single commodity for the bulk of their earnings and go through cyclical downturns, for example oil-reliant Nigeria and Angola, for Botswana the outlook is bleaker. 

“The difference with the oil cycle is that diamond prices are unlikely to ever come back,” said Charlie Robertson, author of The Time Travelling Economist, a book on how developing economies industrialize. “Its economic model is likely to cease being one of the shining lights on the African continent.”  



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Source Fashion booms with focus on sustainable production

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Source Fashion booms with focus on sustainable production


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January 19, 2026

Source Fashion wrapped up last week at London’s Olympia with strong momentum as visitor numbers rose 16% while exhibitor numbers were up 12%. It was busy and buzzing with plenty of special attractions as well as the serious side — meeting buyers and writing orders.

The Source Fashion runway

That was both a reflection of the importance of trade shows in Europe generally and of the strength of Source itself that has carved out its place as Europe’s leading sourcing event.

Buying teams visiting the event included the big players such as M&S, Next, New Look, Tesco, N Brown, ASOS, Boohoo, Harrods, and Universal Music, as well as a host of smaller but still important names. Think Lucy & Yak, Joseph, Temperley London, Oliver Bonas, Hawes & Curtis, Agent Provocateur, Rat & Boa, AYBL and more.

UK manufacturing isn’t dead

Bethany Davy-Day, Creative and Operations Director at Fashion Enter said: “It’s been a great show so far. We’ve hosted two upcycling workshops today, and it’s been encouraging to see strong interest from a mix of e-tailers, retailers and start-up brands, all keen to explore UK manufacturing. As a not-for-profit social enterprise specialising in sustainable manufacturing in North London, it’s been valuable to connect with brands at every stage of growth.”

Fashion Enter
Fashion Enter – Source Fashion

There may be a widely held belief that Britain is no longer a manufacturing hub but the British Pavilion was a big draw at the show as companies focus on more sustainable ways of getting their products to market. The organisers cited exhibitors seeing “high-quality conversations, new commercial leads and a growing appetite from both start-ups and established brands to explore British production”.

Stacey Ohanian at Apparel Tasker, which also featured on the show’s catwalk, said that “we’ve had really positive conversations with start-ups and growing brands who are increasingly interested in working with British manufacturers, and we’ve been able to change perceptions around the cost and value of producing locally. We’ve made a lot of valuable contacts”.

And Colin Spender Halsey, CEO of The Natural Fibre Company, showing for the second time, hailed the “quality of visitors [that] has been even stronger this year. What’s been particularly encouraging is the growing interest in British manufacturing. Many of the visitors we’ve spoken to are actively looking to work with UK manufacturers, with traceability, sustainability and ‘Made in Britain’ increasingly high on the agenda. While we recognise the commercial challenges of producing locally, even small increases in business can make a significant difference to companies like ours”.

Outside of the British Pavilion, the wider show floor was also busy. Katherine O’Driscoll, co-founder of SP & KO, said the company “had a really strong show… the best Source Fashion yet for us. The event has been incredibly busy from start to finish, with fantastic engagement and a steady flow of meaningful conversations. We’ve generated some great leads and already confirmed new contracts, and it’s been particularly encouraging to see so many start-ups and independent designers attending”.

That view was echoed by Ivan Tang and Sandy Chang, respectively MD and business development head at South Enterprises. In their second show, they said they saw “even more traffic” having met “a wide range of new brands, from early-stage start-ups to more established businesses. What’s been particularly positive is seeing how much more focused and informed many brands are, with a growing interest in sourcing more sustainable fibres. There’s a real sense of optimism”.

Sustainability hub

Even director Suzanne Ellingham highlighted the direction the industry is moving in: “What is really encouraging is seeing the direct action that brands and retailers really are looking to bring production closer to home, this is the first time in a few years that we have felt that this is really happening. Alongside responsible sourcing and manufacturing, there is a growing appetite to address what happens at the end of a product’s life. 

Source Fashion

“Looking ahead, we want Source Fashion to be a place where brands can explore end-of-life materials, deadstock and remanufacturing, supporting circular solutions that create value, jobs and opportunity without relying on volume. That focus on transparency, lifecycle thinking and collaboration will continue to shape how the show evolves into its next edition.”

‘Edutainment’

Apart from the business that was done at the show, there was plenty to both entertain and educate with the content programme a big draw.

There were strong audiences across Source Fashion’s content stages, with supply chain accountability, circular business models, repair and longevity, craft-led production and future sourcing strategies, all on the agenda.

The show featured hands-on workshops
The show featured hands-on workshops – Source Fashion

Particularly interesting was a discussion hosted by Simon Platt focusing on supplier collaboration, material innovation and the role of long-term partnerships. Meanwhile, another session challenged brands and buyers to consider how reduced production, alternative value models and craft-led approaches could play a role in building a more resilient fashion industry. 

And data-led insight into the commercial outlook for fashion came courtesy of Euromonitor

That session outlined how “shifting consumer behaviour, commodity pressures and demand for value, quality and sustainability are reshaping the market”. It also highlighted growth opportunities across sportswear- and wellness-driven categories.

A big draw as well was Fashion Deconstructed, which debuted as a hands-on area “designed to shine a light on the skills, processes and people behind fashion production”. That meant live demos, workshops and maker-led sessions, with visitors able to step inside the making process, from repair and upcycling to weaving and circular material innovation. 

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Are Bangladesh RMG stakeholders divided on the Indian yarn duty issue?

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Are Bangladesh RMG stakeholders divided on the Indian yarn duty issue?



Cheap, quick and dependable, Indian yarn, many feel, contributed significantly in turning Bangladesh into a sourcing hub for the world’s biggest fashion brands. But what once looked like a win-win arrangement is now threatening to unravel and at the heart of the current storm is a proposal to slap a ** per cent safeguard duty on yarn imports from India, ostensibly to protect Bangladesh’s domestic spinning mills, which seem to has snowballed into a major bone of contention between the stakeholders, if recent media reports are to be believed, which claimed the garment manufacturers and the textile mill owners took a contrary position on the issue.

Spinning mill owners argue that they are being squeezed to the wall by Indian competitors who, they claim, enjoy generous government incentives at home and therefore export yarn into Bangladesh at prices local producers simply cannot match. The result, they say, is declining sales, mounting losses and, in some cases, shuttered mills. From their perspective, the safeguard duty is not protectionism but survival. Without some kind of barrier, they argue, Bangladesh risks hollowing out a key segment of its industrial base.



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UK’s Burberry marks 170 years with Gabardine Capsule launch

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UK’s Burberry marks 170 years with Gabardine Capsule launch



Burberry has unveiled its new Gabardine Capsule, celebrating 170 years of the British luxury house. The capsule honours the revolutionary fabric, Gabardine, invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, whose weather-resistant properties have defined the brand’s outerwear heritage for nearly 150 years. Worn by explorers and everyday adventurers alike, gabardine remains central to Burberry’s identity.

Burberry has launched its Gabardine Capsule to mark 170 years, celebrating its iconic weather-resistant fabric invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879.
The range reworks parkas, bombers and quilted jackets in brushed cotton nylon gabardine, alongside knitwear and jersey layering pieces.
A heritage label inspired by a 1993 campaign highlights the brand’s countryside roots.

Reimagining signature outerwear styles, the collection features parkas, down-filled jackets, quilted silhouettes, Harringtons and bombers crafted in brushed cotton nylon gabardine. These pieces are dyed in a capsule palette of hamper beige and juniper green.

Layering pieces include chunky ribbed wool-cashmere knitwear and soft cotton melange hoodies, jogging pants and T-shirts. Many styles are detailed with gabardine panels and trench-inspired elements, such as the brand’s signature epaulettes, Burberry said in a release.

Reflecting Burberry’s enduring connection to the countryside and outdoor pursuits, the capsule introduces a specially designed label inspired by an archival 1993 campaign reading: ‘Burberrys grew out of country life.’ The label appears stitched inside coats and jackets, appliqued on jersey styles and rendered as an intarsia motif on knitwear.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (HU)



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