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Louis Vuitton: Welcome to the new refinement

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Louis Vuitton: Welcome to the new refinement


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September 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton, the luxury travel marque par excellence, staged the first major influential show of this Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, wowing with a refined collection presented inside a royal apartment within the Louvre.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

And not just any flat — in fact, the grandiose summer apartment of Anne of Austria, a lavishly finished neoclassical space with views out to the Seine.

All magisterially redecorated, as Vuitton’s women’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière worked with set designer Marie-Anne Derville to create an apartment that riffed on French taste from the 18th century until today — from a salon to a lounge to a bathroom.

“I wanted the serenity that you feel in the comfort of your own home. Today, you can dress with sophistication at home. It’s not just about wearing jogging pants,” explained Ghesquière in a post-show interview.

And like the apartment, this Spring-Summer 2026 collection was highly eclectic: blending kicky fabric tops, tapestry details, carpet-fabric shoes, and brushed silk — an 18th-century French technique where it begins to look like animal skin.

Though Ghesquière didn’t directly reference Anne of Austria’s wardrobe, there was an air of contemporary courtier about the clothes — from leggings cut like britches, or shirts with aristocratic six-inch collars, to striking lace demoiselle gowns and a magnificent scarlet satin bouffant bubble coat.

All manner of off-the-shoulder togas added to the sense of the event, as did damask dhotis. Paired with short paisley tanks, all suggested an exotic dinner party that would be marvelous to attend.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

Adding to a sense of mystery, a major shout-out to the millinery — superb Doges’ miters or Pashas’ turbans. Being Ghesquière, the designer leavened many looks with futuristic sportswear: technical palazzo pants or high-tech sneakers.

Nicolas was clearly influenced by the colors of the queen’s apartment. The rose-checked marble floor was restored in the 1970s; below 17th- and 18th-century frescoes and Egyptian bas-reliefs. And even if he claimed not to be influenced by the wardrobe of Anne — the mother of Sun King Louis XIV — there was a hint of Rubens’ famed portrait of Anne in a diaphanous silk gown with a spiky collar.

“It’s a multicultural proposition,” joked the French designer, attired in his classic dressed-down style — worn black jeans and a pale blue jeans jacket.

Though often grand, the collection was never uptight. Far from it — with perfectly draped body-con gowns and superb tailoring made in soft knitwear.

Whatever else one can say about Ghesquière, he certainly has great imagination — and timing. In a season marked by the demise of quiet luxury and the renaissance of refinement, riffing on a queen’s apartment seemed smart.

Original and highly diverse — just like the set, which blended artist Robert Wilson; Georges Jacob, master cabinetmaker of the 18th century; 1930s Art Deco by Michel Dufet; ceramic sculptures by Pierre-Adrien Dalpayrat; and even furniture designed by Derville herself.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

Among which sat all the senior brass of LVMH, owner of Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury brand; a pack of influencers; and several proper movie stars — among them Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.

And a sense of empowerment. Like Anne. No slouch when it came to politics, Anne outmaneuvered her rivals to become the sole regent of Louis XIV when he became king aged just four. Then she determinedly suppressed the Fronde — the greatest revolt against the French monarchy prior to the Revolution — doing so with the help of Italian-born Cardinal Mazarin. Then again, LVMH’s patron knows a thing or two about hiring Italians. His CEO at Vuitton is Italian-born Pietro Beccari.

All told, even if Vuitton is the luxury brand synonymous with travel, and this was a collection devoted to home, the collection was still very much a fashionable voyage, with flights of fantasy that broke into new stylistic terrain.

The soundtrack gave the whole show a certain grandeur: Cate Blanchett slowly declaiming the words to David Byrne’s song “This Must Be the Place” from the band Talking Heads, though set to music composed by Tanguy Destable.

“Home — it’s where I want to be,” wrote Byrne, which doesn’t seem such a bad idea.

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ASEAN+3 nations must safeguard fiscal viability, rebuild buffers: AMRO

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ASEAN+3 nations must safeguard fiscal viability, rebuild buffers: AMRO



With fiscal positions weakened and policy space narrowed, policymakers in the ASEAN+3 region must prioritise safeguarding fiscal sustainability and rebuilding buffers, according to the ASEAN+3 Fiscal Policy Report (AFPR) 2026 released recently by the ASEAN +3 Macroeconomic Research Office (AMRO).

At the same time, growing demands on fiscal policy require governments not only to respond to immediate shocks, but also to support growth, facilitate structural transformation and reduce poverty and inequality over the medium to long term, it noted.

With fiscal positions weakened and policy space narrowed, ASEAN+3 policymakers must safeguard fiscal sustainability and rebuild buffers, the ASEAN+3 Fiscal Policy Report 2026 said.
Governments should also support growth, facilitate structural transformation and reduce poverty and inequality over the medium to long term, it noted.
Particular attention should be given to liabilities outside the budget.

ASEAN+3 comprises members of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, along with China, South Korea and Japan.

These competing demands are compounded by sluggish revenue growth and rigid budget structures. Addressing these challenges will require stronger fiscal management frameworks, including improvements in risk management, fiscal aggregate management, strategic resource allocation, spending efficiency and revenue mobilisation.

The report also highlights the importance of comprehensive fiscal risk management, urging policymakers to strengthen the identification, assessment and disclosure of fiscal risks.

Particular attention should be given to liabilities outside the budget, including borrowing by off-budget public entities and government arrears.

Systematic monitoring and proactive management of contingent liabilities are essential, especially those related to government guarantees, public-private partnerships, state-owned enterprises and social security obligations, the report remarked.

Enhancing fiscal aggregate management, alongside improving strategic resource allocation and spending efficiency, will be critical to meeting rising expenditure demands in line with national priorities, while safeguarding fiscal sustainability and rebuilding buffers, it added.

The report further encourages policymakers to implement comprehensive and durable revenue-enhancing measures, including strengthening tax administration—particularly through digitalisation—rationalising tax expenditures and advancing structural reforms to major taxes.

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Trade bodies call for moving HR 4930 forward in US legislative process

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Trade bodies call for moving HR 4930 forward in US legislative process



The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) along with 18 other trade bodies recently wrote a letter to Congressional leadership in the US House of Representatives seeking support to move HR 4930 forward in the legislative process.

The piece of legislation, aimed at addressing long-standing challenges to the enforcement of intellectual property rights (IPR) at US borders, was reported with unanimous, bipartisan support from the House Ways and Means Committee.

AAFA along with 18 other trade bodies recently wrote to Congressional leadership in the US House of Representatives seeking support to move HR 4930 forward in the legislative process.
The piece of legislation, aimed at addressing long-standing challenges to the enforcement of IPR at US borders, was reported with unanimous, bipartisan support from the House Ways and Means Committee.

“We encourage you to move swiftly in bringing the bill to the Floor,” the letter noted.

In fiscal 2023-2024, US Customs & Border Protection (CBP) seized over 32 million counterfeit and pirated items, valued in excess of $5 billion, across more than 300 ports of entry, the letter noted.

“More disconcerting though is the rate at which those figures are increasing. In just the past five years, the number of illicit goods seized by CBP has more than doubled, while the value of those goods has grown by more than 400 per cent,” the letter said.

“The cost of this criminal trafficking cannot be measured in dollars alone though, but in the injuries caused by often dangerous fakes that put consumers’ health and safety at risk, in diminished investments to drive the next wave of innovation by American businesses, in jobs lost

to unfair competition, and increasingly, by the threats such products pose to our national security,” the letter said.

The overwhelming volume of trade passing through U.S. ports, and the speed at which it moves, presents a significant obstacle to effective border enforcement, it noted.

While Congress has expressed a clear desire in recent years for greater partnership between the public and private sectors on these issues, CBP has raised concerns over both the scope of its authority to share information with, and to seek assistance from, its partners in the private sector in carrying out its IP enforcement mission, it said.

HR 4930 clarifies and expands the agency’s authority, offering practical tools to safeguard consumers and legitimate businesses.

“It is essential that CBP has the ability to work with relevant stakeholders throughout the supply chain, both to avoid the siloing of information that has often hindered the agency’s efficiency, and to ensure that the private sector can offer effective and timely assistance on matters of trade enforcement, thereby ensuring that bad actors and trade cheats are held accountable,” the letter added.

The trade associations which signed the letter include Baby Safety Alliance, International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition, International Intellectual Property Association, Personal Care Products Council and Transnational Alliance to Combat Illicit Trade.

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UK revises intellectual property fee structure effective April 2026

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UK revises intellectual property fee structure effective April 2026



The UK Intellectual Property Office (IPO) has announced an increase in fees for registering trademarks, designs and patents, effective from April 1, 2026. The revision follows the implementation of the UK’s Intellectual Property Fees (Miscellaneous Amendments, Revocation and Transitional Provisions) Rules in 2026.

This marks the first comprehensive revision in decades, with the last fee increases recorded in 1998 for trademarks, 2016 for designs, and 2018 for patents. The IPO stated that the changes aim to address a 32 per cent rise in inflation since 2016 while supporting continued investment in digital systems and services.

The UK IPO has increased fees for trademarks, designs and patents from April 1, 2026 under new rules, marking the first major revision in years.
The move reflects a 32 per cent rise in inflation since 2016 and aims to support continued investment in digital systems and services, with transitional provisions applicable for certain filings and payments.

The updated fees apply to all applications and payments made on or after April 1, 2026. Transitional provisions have also been outlined for certain cases. For designs, deferred registration requests submitted from April 1 onwards will be subject to the new fees, even if the original application was filed earlier.

For trademarks, applicants using the permitted period of grace may still be eligible to pay the previous fee, provided the application was filed before April 1 and any outstanding payment is completed within the IPO’s deadline.

Separately, UKFT has submitted industry feedback to the IPO regarding the UK’s updated Design Framework, which is expected to be announced later this year.

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