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New US port-fee regime targeting China fails to achieve targets: AAFA

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New US port-fee regime targeting China fails to achieve targets: AAFA



As the US government began imposing new port fees on Chinese-owned and operated carriers, as well as on any ocean carriers with Chinese-built vessels calling at US ports, the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) said these fees “fail to achieve their stated objectives”.

The stated objective of this new port-fee-regime is to address unfair practices that led to China’s dominance in global shipbuilding and strengthen the US shipbuilding industry. China produced 53 per cent of the world’s ships in 2024.

As the US unveiled a new port fee regime targeting China, AAFA said these fees “fail to achieve their stated objectives”.
These fees are set to rise each April, raising the risk that the costs will turn too high for some carriers and begin to be passed along to shippers.
Carriers have deployed non-Chinese-built ships on US routes, while continuing to expand orders at Chinese shipyards, it noted.

These fees are set to increase each April, raising the risk that the costs will become too high for some carriers to absorb and begin to be passed along to shippers, AAFA noted.

“Rather than reducing reliance on Chinese shipbuilding, carriers have simply reshuffled their fleets by deploying non-Chinese-built ships on US routes, while continuing to expand orders at Chinese shipyards. China’s global market share in shipbuilding continues to rise, climbing above 65 per cent in June and reaching 84 per cent in August,” said AAFA executive vice president Nate Herman said in a release.

“At the same time, Chinese carriers are shifting calls from US ports to Canada and Mexico to maintain North American service while avoiding the fees. This diverts business away from US ports and reduces work opportunities for American longshoremen,” he added.

“We urge the Trump administration to reconsider this policy. Instead of imposing punitive port fees that create inefficiencies and divert business away from US ports, the focus should be on creating strong domestic incentives and providing sustained support to revitalise American shipbuilding,” said AAFA trade and transportation specialist Audrey Clark.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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Pandora’s Aurélie Alexandre: ‘The initiatives under way in Spain and Portugal serve as a benchmark for other markets”

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Pandora’s Aurélie Alexandre: ‘The initiatives under way in Spain and Portugal serve as a benchmark for other markets”


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October 21, 2025

At the end of last August, the Danish jewellery giant Pandora appointed Aurélie Alexandre as its new director for Spain and Portugal. From the company’s Madrid headquarters, she succeeded Alizée Huitorel, who at the beginning of the year became the company’s general manager for Western Europe. A couple of months after taking the helm of the Iberian division, FashionNetwork.com speaks with the executive about her challenges at Pandora, future plans and the role of the Spanish and Portuguese markets within the company.

Aurélie Alexandre, Pandora’s director for Spain and Portugal – Pandora

FashionNetwork.com: How are your first months in the role going?

Aurélie Alexandre: I’m getting to know the region, the market, the teams and the stores, and travelling a lot. I already knew these two countries because I worked as marketing director for Western Europe, including France, but right now I’m focused on Portugal and Spain.

FNW: What are your main challenges in this new role?

A. A.: On the one hand, we face the same macroeconomic challenges as the rest of the sector. For example, in jewellery, the price of silver is something that affects us. Beyond that, in the Portuguese and Spanish markets, I’d say the main challenge is to strengthen our position as a brand. Pandora has a very strong brand position in Spain and Portugal and is very well known, but our task is to remain a relevant and inspiring brand in these markets. We need to strengthen the brand beyond ‘charms’ and our bracelets, which distinguished Pandora and put it on the map. Now, without losing our essence, we have to go further.

FNW: What is your strategy for achieving that goal?

A. A.: It rests on several pillars. We will back different product categories within the jewellery segment; and, in terms of customer connection, we’ll aim to be less product-centric, putting greater emphasis on emotions, on our connection with customers, on building bonds. At the end of October, we will unveil a campaign along these lines, focusing on that emotional connection with the brand.

FNW: A global campaign or a local one for the Iberian market?

A. A.: It’s a global campaign that will launch in these two markets.

FNW: What are the other pillars of the strategy?

A. A.: Retail is a key piece. We have a very solid, established network in both Spain and Portugal, so we’re no longer in a phase of growing the network for its own sake. It’s about continuing to open where it makes sense. In fact, rather than increasing the number of stores [Pandora has over 90 in Spain and around 40 in Portugal], our strategy is focused on relocations. We have stores in very good locations, but many of them are small. We obviously can’t push out the walls to make them bigger, so our challenge is to find new sites. This is something to develop in the medium term, as finding the right spaces doesn’t happen quickly.

In parallel, we’re rolling out our new Evoke store concept, launched a year and a half ago. Some stores already have it in place, but one of our objectives is to invest in expanding it and bringing it to more locations.

Pandora operates around 130 monobrand stores in Spain and Portugal
Pandora operates around 130 monobrand stores in Spain and Portugal – Pandora

FNW: And beyond physical stores?

A. A.: Another pillar of our strategy is the digital environment. We recently launched a new e-commerce site. And we continue to champion omnichannel: the click-and-collect format works very well, and we’re also enabling customers to buy online from our physical stores those products they want that aren’t available in-store at that moment. And we have a partnership with El Corte Inglés to operate on its marketplace.

FNW: What is your relationship with El Corte Inglés?

A. A.: It’s a key partner. In addition to the digital channel, we are present in 70 shop-in-shops in its department stores in Spain and two in Portugal, and it is an essential part of our distribution. In the multi-brand channel we operate in 220 locations in Spain and 130 in Portugal.

FNW: What do the Spanish and Portuguese markets represent for Pandora?

A. A.: They are two of the fastest-growing markets, if not the fastest. Pandora has a unique brand positioning in these two countries, and some of the initiatives developed here are a benchmark for other markets. One example is the influencer marketing strategy followed in Spain and Portugal: a community has been created that is highly connected with Gen Z, where most of the content produced is organic, not paid. The influencers are part of the Pandora family; that’s how they feel and that’s how it comes across to customers. Moreover, the paid media model used in the Iberian market is also successful and a template to follow.

FNW: In recent times, you’ve reached a new generation of consumers through social profiles. But what about the more traditional customer, the one who first connected with the brand through its ‘charms’?

A. A.: Of course, we remain connected with our long-standing customers, paying attention to them and engaging with them. ‘Charms’ are our core and they’re not going anywhere; in fact, we constantly launch new collections, such as ‘Talisman’, which was released recently.

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Expanding British luxury brand Sunspel puts down roots in Paris

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Expanding British luxury brand Sunspel puts down roots in Paris


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October 20, 2025

Step by step, Sunspel is steadily expanding its footprint. In Paris, the English specialist in timeless luxury has set up shop at 38, rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, in one of fashion’s favourite districts: the Marais. The label inaugurated a 60-square-metre boutique there on October 8, marking its third opening of 2025.

Shopfront of Sunspel’s Paris boutique – Sunspel

Located on one of the oldest streets in the Marais, dating back to the 13th century, the space is run by a team of three. The brand, founded in 1860 by Thomas Arthur Hill, presents its classic, tightly edited wardrobe of T-shirts, polos, jumpers, coats and trousers. In the centre of the boutique, customers can explore a number of accessories and other items, including fragrances developed since 2019 in partnership with British perfumer Lyn Harris.

Harris Tweed and Sea Island cotton

From the outset, Sunspel has been known for the refinement of its materials. The brand uses Sea Island cotton, a Caribbean variety that requires abundant water and sunshine, developed in the 17th century by European settlers in the British West Indies. Sunspel T-shirts are also made from Supima cotton, sourced from a Californian farm. For other pieces, the label uses cashmere from Mongolia, spun in Switzerland.

The T-shirt is the brand's flagship product
The T-shirt is the brand’s flagship product – Sunspel

Sunspel’s storytelling is full of such anecdotes. Pointing to a woollen coat, Nicholas Brooke, the brand’s owner since 2005, explains, as an accompanying video shows, that the piece is made from Harris Tweed, a fabric produced by the inhabitants of an archipelago in the north-west of Scotland, in their own homes.

The Riviera polo shirt was created in the 1950s for the climate of southern France by the founder’s grandson. Today, it is produced in Portugal on lace-making machines, in a factory with 25 units. The brand’s enduring classic remains the T-shirt, a line of which was created especially for Daniel Craig in “Casino Royale”. They are made in Nottingham, England, and the seamstresses stitch their first names into them — a way of highlighting these often-unseen workers.

“We want to continue investing in France”

A frequent collaborator, Sunspel has signed co-creations with Lemaire, Comme des Garçons, JW Anderson, Paul Smith and Thom Browne. In these collaborations, the brand primarily contributes its technical expertise, leaving the creative side to its partners. On its own pieces, there is no logo, and the colours are restrained, partly inspired by the paintings of British artist Richard Whadcock. At the same time, the brand continues to build on past innovations and is working on new technical projects. It recently unveiled a blend of Sea Island cotton and cashmere.

Nicholas Brooke acquired Sunspel from the Hill family in 2005
Nicholas Brooke acquired Sunspel from the Hill family in 2005 – Sunspel

Sunspel CEO Raul Verdicchi joined the brand in 2023 after stints at AlphaTauri and the Zegna Group.

“Sunspel is unique because it combines several factors: it is an English brand, with quality products and heritage,” he explains. “It works very well for us — we even grew during Covid. Today, this boutique marks a new milestone. And in the future, we want to continue investing in France.”

For the time being, the Marais space attracts both French customers and international tourists, who account for 55% of its clientele.

A boutique in Tokyo in early 2026

Sunspel already has eight shops across London, and two more in the rest of the UK – in Edinburgh, and a stone’s throw from Liverpool, in the Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet. In the United States, the label has five standalone boutiques, in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Santa Barbara and New York, in SoHo and on the Upper East Side. In the midst of its international expansion, Sunspel will open a boutique in Tokyo in early 2026. The brand is also present at numerous retailers such as Beams, Saks, Harrods, Selfridges & Co, La Samaritaine and Printemps, giving it a physical presence in 34 countries.

The brand uses, among other channels, the press and cinema to attract new customers
The brand uses, among other channels, the press and cinema to attract new customers – Sunspel

To support this expansion, the brand needs to refresh its customer base. Brooke explains: “We have 60-year-old customers who have been buying from us for 30 years, but also customers who are in their twenties. To retain a customer base, we do not focus on age, but on the quality of our products.”

He goes on to point out that in the UK, the brand enjoys a certain renown, thanks in particular to its first creative director, Northern Irish designer, Jonathan Anderson. Other channels, such as the press and cinema, also help to renew the brand’s customer base.

For 2025, Sunspel posted revenue of £36 million, or almost €41.5 million. Since 2020, the brand has achieved annual growth of 20%.

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Kering workers in Italy to strike over ‘unilateral decisions’ by the company

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Kering workers in Italy to strike over ‘unilateral decisions’ by the company


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Reuters

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October 20, 2025

Workers at Italian units of French luxury group Kering will stage a four-hour strike on Tuesday, unions said, citing what they said was the company’s unwillingness to engage in dialogue over issues such as remote working.

Balenciaga – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The action will affect staff at Kering brands including Gucci, Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, with demonstrations planned in Milan and Scandicci, a town close to Florence.

Kering is dealing with a slump in sales and high debt and it agreed on Monday to sell its beauty business to L’Oreal .

Italian unions Filctem Cgil, Femca Cisl and Uiltec Uil said recent talks with Kering’s representatives showed a “preconceived closure to dialogue”, accusing the group of unilateral decisions that risk weakening labour relations and workers’ rights.

One example was the company’s decision to limit remote work, according to Filctem Cgil union representative Massimo Bollini.

“But beyond this specific case, what’s changing is the approach – decisions are presented as final and non-negotiable,” he told Reuters.

Kering Italia said it informed unions last November of its plan to halve monthly remote work days from eight to four, in line with the group’s global strategy.

The previous agreement was extended until September to allow for dialogue and the new policy took effect in October. 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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