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NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov

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NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov


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September 16, 2025

The action in New York Fashion Week was concentrated in Brooklyn on Monday with distinctive and distinguished shows by Tory Burch and Diotima, after the day had opened with Zankov in Chelsea.

Tory Burch – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 

Tory Burch: Fashion in a cathedral of finance

No one can ever fault Tory Burch’s excellent sensibility when it comes to staging a show, especially this season, when she presented inside the luxury condominium skyscraper One Hanson Place.

Originally the HQ of Williamsburg Savings Bank, the main lobby in this former cathedral of finance built in the 1930s contains elements of Romanesque ad Byzantine architecture. Making it the ideal location for this eclectic collection, which blended snappy American sportswear, distressed fabrics and kicky imperfections.
 
Though diverse in its references, the collection was nevertheless coherent its fashion statement and target. Few creators today better understand the needs of busy working women than Burch. Her clothes have polish but are never prim.
 

Tory Burch – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

She takes risks – like a great series of dropped waist skirts and dresses – but manages to pull them off with aplomb. She creates monogram silk sweaters but keeps them playful with myriad letterings. She drapes plissé flared dresses in liquid viscose with gusto.
 
Tory’s aesthetic is cool, cerebral and feminine, but never saccharine or insipid. Her cast looked like busy women brimming with panache armed with a great new Lee Radziwill handbag – each marching with supreme confidence.
 
Little wonder her front-row boasted Naomi Watts, Qin Lan, Tessa Thompson and Emma Roberts.
 
“We were thinking about the complexity of women and different facets of their style. Femininity and strength, precision and imperfection. The clash of pristine tailoring with naïve florals, seed beading with distressed leather,” opined Burch, who took a bow with a huge smile, the sounds of loud clapping echoing off the gilded mosaic ceiling.
 

Diotima: Rejecting colonialism through Carnival

Diotima – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Colonialism, and Caribbean culture’s fightback against that evil via the tradition of Carnival, was the theme of an innovative and intriguing collection from Diotima this season.
 
Yet though riffing on carnival archetypes, the collection was far from being clothes for a pageant. Diotima’s founder Rachel Scott referenced many carnival characters – with names like Baby Doll, Dame Lorraine – but the results were very wearable, cool clothes rather than theatrical statements.
 
Blending elements of active sport and couture: like a hooded sleeveless mesh top and pants finished by a layered skirt in shards of chiffon; or mini waistcoats accompanied by matte viscose crepe knit skirts. Her chevron-finished sequinned mesh bodies will have a huge impact and be copied by lesser talents and high street stores.
 
Scott can drape and sculpt with the best of them, her skill highlighted in some fab crepe lapel-free redingotes, layered asymmetrically below the waist. 
 
Combining all her tricks and techniques into a super series of evening looks, they were worn by a cast with J’Ouvert pre-dawn street festival make-up with daubs of silver mud. That was before a bravura finale of feathery gowns with interior light weight petticoats.
 
Carnival couture received an enormous cheer when Scott took her bow inside a battered old warehouse in Greenpoint.
 
Last year’s winner of the CFDA’s 2024 American Womenswear Designer Award, Scott was recently appointed creative director of Proenza Schouler. In a word, Jamaica-born Scott is also the single most original fashion designer in the Americas today. 
 

Zankov: Knits and stripes in Chelsea

Zankov – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Monday began with a runway debut for Henry Zankov, whose knitwear-driven collections have been attracting a lot of attention of late.
 
Zankov is another recent prizewinner, nabbing the Google Shopping Emerging Designer of the Year title in 2024.
 
So, even though this was Zankov’s catwalks baptism, the show managed to attract buyers from Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Selfridges, Bergdorf and Sherri McMullen, whose chain of boutiques around San Francisco have earned her a reputation as a savvy diviner of coming trends.
 
Presented inside an all-white art gallery in Chelsea to an audience of barely 150, the collection was pretty and pleasing, even if the show never took off.
 
Boasting some eye-boggling fabrics – bonded burlap linens or wrinkled checkerboard intarsias – Zankov’s clothes look novel, though also oddly retro. With too many football jersey carwash stripes, and predictable sequin mesh sheaths. Plus, styling that featured headscarves and daffy sunglasses only managed to remind one of Alessandro Michele’s early Gucci shows a half decade ago. Not exactly a very now look.
 
 

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Nigeria’s textile imports up 47.43% YoY in Jan-Sept 2025

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Nigeria’s textile imports up 47.43% YoY in Jan-Sept 2025



Nigeria’s textile imports rose to N 814.27 billion in the first three quarters this year—a 47.43-per cent year-on-year (YoY) increase despite repeated government claims of the sector’s revival. Rising imports indicate a weak domestic textile industry.

The country imported textile and textile materials worth N 228.83 billion in the first quarter (Q1) this year, N 337.12 billion in Q2 and N 248.32 billion in Q3.

Industry experts blame policy failure, weak execution of credit initiatives, abandonment of promised institutional reforms, pervasive corruption and structural bottlenecks like weak cotton farming, insecurity and the inability to scale locally-produced polyester for the decline, according to Nigerian media reports.

Nigeria’s textile imports rose to N 814.27 billion in January-September 2025—a 47.43-per cent YoY rise despite repeated government claims of the sector’s revival.
Rising imports indicate a weak domestic textile industry.
Industry experts blame policy failure, weak execution of credit initiatives, abandonment of promised institutional reforms, pervasive corruption and structural bottlenecks for the fall.

Hamma Kwajaffa, director general of the Nigerian Textile Manufacturers Association, lamented that the 10-per cent tax on imported textiles—which was introduced when the ban on textile imports was lifted so that the amount collected can be ploughed into domestic textile production—has not been directed to improve the private textile sector.

Kwajaffa pointed to the failure to create a dedicated textile development fund domiciled with the Bank of Industry.

Conflicting positions among top officials had stalled any action related to the sector and repeated workshops and announcements without execution had yielded no tangible outcome, Kwajaffa added.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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CFDA to implement fur ban at NYFW from September 2026

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CFDA to implement fur ban at NYFW from September 2026















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ECB keeps interest rates unchanged, upgrades growth outlook

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ECB keeps interest rates unchanged, upgrades growth outlook



The European Central Bank (ECB) has decided to leave its three key interest rates unchanged, signalling continued confidence that inflation will stabilise at its 2 per cent target over the medium term. The deposit facility rate remains at 2.00 per cent, while the main refinancing operations rate stays at 2.15 per cent and the marginal lending facility at 2.40 per cent.

According to updated Eurosystem staff projections, headline inflation is expected to average 2.1 per cent in 2025, easing to 1.9 per cent in 2026 and 1.8 per cent in 2027, before returning to 2.0 per cent in 2028. Inflation excluding energy and food is forecast at 2.4 per cent in 2025, gradually declining to 2.0 per cent by 2028. Inflation for 2026 has been revised upward, mainly due to expectations that services inflation will fall more slowly than previously anticipated, the Governing Council of the ECB said in a press release.

European Central Bank has kept its key interest rates unchanged, maintaining confidence that inflation will stabilise at the 2 per cent target.
Updated projections show inflation easing gradually over the coming years, with a slight upward revision for 2026 due to persistent services prices.
Economic growth forecasts have been revised higher, supported by stronger domestic demand.

The ECB also revised its economic growth outlook higher compared with its September projections. Growth is now expected to reach 1.4 per cent in 2025, 1.2 per cent in 2026 and 1.4 per cent in 2027, with expansion projected to remain at 1.4 per cent in 2028. The improvement is driven largely by stronger domestic demand across the euro area.

The Council reiterated its commitment to ensuring that inflation stabilises sustainably at the 2 per cent target. It emphasised that future monetary policy decisions will remain data-dependent and assessed on a meeting-by-meeting basis, without pre-committing to any specific interest rate path.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KD)



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