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NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov

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NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov


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September 16, 2025

The action in New York Fashion Week was concentrated in Brooklyn on Monday with distinctive and distinguished shows by Tory Burch and Diotima, after the day had opened with Zankov in Chelsea.

Tory Burch – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 

Tory Burch: Fashion in a cathedral of finance

No one can ever fault Tory Burch’s excellent sensibility when it comes to staging a show, especially this season, when she presented inside the luxury condominium skyscraper One Hanson Place.

Originally the HQ of Williamsburg Savings Bank, the main lobby in this former cathedral of finance built in the 1930s contains elements of Romanesque ad Byzantine architecture. Making it the ideal location for this eclectic collection, which blended snappy American sportswear, distressed fabrics and kicky imperfections.
 
Though diverse in its references, the collection was nevertheless coherent its fashion statement and target. Few creators today better understand the needs of busy working women than Burch. Her clothes have polish but are never prim.
 

Tory Burch – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

She takes risks – like a great series of dropped waist skirts and dresses – but manages to pull them off with aplomb. She creates monogram silk sweaters but keeps them playful with myriad letterings. She drapes plissé flared dresses in liquid viscose with gusto.
 
Tory’s aesthetic is cool, cerebral and feminine, but never saccharine or insipid. Her cast looked like busy women brimming with panache armed with a great new Lee Radziwill handbag – each marching with supreme confidence.
 
Little wonder her front-row boasted Naomi Watts, Qin Lan, Tessa Thompson and Emma Roberts.
 
“We were thinking about the complexity of women and different facets of their style. Femininity and strength, precision and imperfection. The clash of pristine tailoring with naïve florals, seed beading with distressed leather,” opined Burch, who took a bow with a huge smile, the sounds of loud clapping echoing off the gilded mosaic ceiling.
 

Diotima: Rejecting colonialism through Carnival

Diotima – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Colonialism, and Caribbean culture’s fightback against that evil via the tradition of Carnival, was the theme of an innovative and intriguing collection from Diotima this season.
 
Yet though riffing on carnival archetypes, the collection was far from being clothes for a pageant. Diotima’s founder Rachel Scott referenced many carnival characters – with names like Baby Doll, Dame Lorraine – but the results were very wearable, cool clothes rather than theatrical statements.
 
Blending elements of active sport and couture: like a hooded sleeveless mesh top and pants finished by a layered skirt in shards of chiffon; or mini waistcoats accompanied by matte viscose crepe knit skirts. Her chevron-finished sequinned mesh bodies will have a huge impact and be copied by lesser talents and high street stores.
 
Scott can drape and sculpt with the best of them, her skill highlighted in some fab crepe lapel-free redingotes, layered asymmetrically below the waist. 
 
Combining all her tricks and techniques into a super series of evening looks, they were worn by a cast with J’Ouvert pre-dawn street festival make-up with daubs of silver mud. That was before a bravura finale of feathery gowns with interior light weight petticoats.
 
Carnival couture received an enormous cheer when Scott took her bow inside a battered old warehouse in Greenpoint.
 
Last year’s winner of the CFDA’s 2024 American Womenswear Designer Award, Scott was recently appointed creative director of Proenza Schouler. In a word, Jamaica-born Scott is also the single most original fashion designer in the Americas today. 
 

Zankov: Knits and stripes in Chelsea

Zankov – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Monday began with a runway debut for Henry Zankov, whose knitwear-driven collections have been attracting a lot of attention of late.
 
Zankov is another recent prizewinner, nabbing the Google Shopping Emerging Designer of the Year title in 2024.
 
So, even though this was Zankov’s catwalks baptism, the show managed to attract buyers from Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Selfridges, Bergdorf and Sherri McMullen, whose chain of boutiques around San Francisco have earned her a reputation as a savvy diviner of coming trends.
 
Presented inside an all-white art gallery in Chelsea to an audience of barely 150, the collection was pretty and pleasing, even if the show never took off.
 
Boasting some eye-boggling fabrics – bonded burlap linens or wrinkled checkerboard intarsias – Zankov’s clothes look novel, though also oddly retro. With too many football jersey carwash stripes, and predictable sequin mesh sheaths. Plus, styling that featured headscarves and daffy sunglasses only managed to remind one of Alessandro Michele’s early Gucci shows a half decade ago. Not exactly a very now look.
 
 

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China’s Lanvin Group sees 17.6% drop in preliminary FY25 revenue

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China’s Lanvin Group sees 17.6% drop in preliminary FY25 revenue



China’s luxury fashion house Lanvin Group has reported a preliminary fiscal 2025 (FY25) revenue of €240.5 million (~$276.58 million), marking a 17.6 per cent year-on-year (YoY) decline, as the global luxury sector faced persistent headwinds and uneven consumer demand. The figures exclude Caruso following its strategic carve-out announced in February 2026, allowing the group to sharpen its focus on core luxury brands.

Despite the overall decline, the group indicated improving momentum in the second half of 2025, with revenue contraction narrowing significantly compared to the first half. This trend reflects early gains from ongoing transformation initiatives, including operational restructuring, cost discipline, and retail network optimisation.

Lanvin Group has reported revenue of €240.5 million (~$276.58 million) in FY25, down 17.6 per cent YoY, amid global luxury headwinds.
While Lanvin and Sergio Rossi declined sharply, St John remained resilient.
North America was stable, but China weakened significantly.
The group continues restructuring, leadership changes, and retail optimisation, targeting stronger growth and profitability by 2026.

At the brand level, performance remained mixed. Lanvin and Sergio Rossi both recorded sharp declines of 30 per cent, while Wolford fell 14 per cent. St John showed resilience, with revenue slipping just 1 per cent, supported by an 8 per cent increase in North America in local currency terms. Wolford’s performance stabilised during the year, aided by improved supply conditions and stronger traction in e-commerce and wholesale channels. Meanwhile, Lanvin progressed in its creative repositioning under artistic director Peter Copping, Lanvin said in a press release.

Regionally, North America has emerged as the most stable market, with revenue declining a modest 6 per cent to €116 million. In contrast, Europe, Middle East, and Africa (EMEA) revenues fell 21 per cent, while Greater China saw a steep 42 per cent drop, reflecting softer demand and cautious wholesale activity. Other markets declined 26 per cent, underscoring broader global volatility in luxury consumption.

Across channels, direct-to-consumer (DTC) and e-commerce revenues declined 18 per cent to €164 million, while wholesale revenues fell 15 per cent. The Group continued to streamline its retail footprint, including selective store closures and organisational adjustments, as part of its broader efficiency drive.

Leadership changes also supported the transformation, with Marco Pozzo appointed CEO of Wolford, Barbara Werschine as deputy CEO of Lanvin, and Mandy West as CEO of St John. These appointments are aimed at strengthening brand execution and accelerating strategic priorities, added the release.

Looking ahead, Lanvin Group expects to largely complete its transformation programme in 2026. The company plans to deepen its presence in core markets, expand asset-light business models, and pursue strategic partnerships, while continuing creative renewal across its portfolio. These efforts are intended to reinforce long-term growth and improve profitability amid an evolving global luxury landscape.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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Trump’s tariffs had limited impact on US economy: Study

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Trump’s tariffs had limited impact on US economy: Study



Though President Donald Trump’s tariff increases last year raised US trade protectionism to the highest level in at least 80 years, these so far have had only a small effect on the overall United States (US) economy, according to a paper discussed at the Brookings Papers on Economic Activity (BPEA) conference recently.

Despite the tariff hike being larger than the 1930 Smoot-Hawley tariffs, the aggregate impact on the US economy appears small—between 0.1 per cent of gross domestic product (GDP) and minus 0.13 per cent, wrote Pablo Fajgelbaum, professor of economics at the University of California, Los Angeles, and Amit Khandelwal, Don-Soo Hahn professor of global affairs and economics at Yale University.

Though President Donald Trump’s 2025 tariff hikes raised US trade protectionism to the highest level in at least 80 years, these so far have had only a small effect on the US economy, a paper discussed at the Brookings Papers on Economic Activity conference recently noted.
That is because federal revenue generated by the tariffs and gains to US producers largely offset the tariffs paid by US importers.

That is because federal revenue generated by the tariffs and gains to US producers largely offset the tariffs paid by US importers, they wrote.

While the aggregate net economic impact may be small, the authors noted that the tariffs also have distributional impacts between producers and importers. They estimate roughly 90 per cent of the tariffs have been passed through to importers, with foreign exporters absorbing only about 10 per cent of the cost by lowering their before-tariff prices.

Except from China, the majority of US exports have not faced retaliatory tariffs. And, the tariffs’ magnitude may be smaller than perceived by the public because announced tariffs “exceeded the actual tariffs imposed at the border,” they wrote.

Moreover, 57 per cent of imports entered the US duty-free. That includes most imports from Canada and Mexico, which enter under the United States-Mexico-Canada Free Trade Agreement of 2020.

The authors found evidence that the tariffs are achieving the administration’s objectives of raising federal revenue and decoupling trade with China. However, they found no evidence, or said it is too early to determine, whether other stated goals will be met, including lowering import prices excluding tariffs, reducing the US trade deficit, increasing trade with friendly nations, boosting manufacturing jobs and wages, and reshoring strategic industries, a release from the Brookings Institution said.

The authors found that the reduction of US-China trade, which began shrinking with the application of tariffs in 2018, during the first Trump administration, “accelerated markedly in 2025”. However, the overall US goods trade deficit in 2025 rose modestly from 2024 and manufacturing jobs declined slightly despite the tariffs.

They also found that the tariffs were seemingly unrelated to trading partners’ pre-existing geopolitical alignment with the US, noting that tariffs on NATO members and key defence allies are only slightly lower than those imposed on the rest of the world.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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Middle East conflict clouds India’s economic outlook

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Middle East conflict clouds India’s economic outlook



The latest Monthly Economic Review released by India’s Department of Economic Affairs foresees a ‘more uncertain’ economic outlook of the country due to the conflict in the Middle East disrupting energy and trade routes, though domestic growth, credit expansion and services exports continue to offer resilience.

The economic trajectory, which remained steady until early 2026, is now facing fresh headwinds as the conflict has disrupted key global supply chains, especially in energy and logistics, critical pillars of India’s economic stability.

The latest Monthly Economic Review by India’s Department of Economic Affairs projects a more uncertain economic outlook, citing disruptions to energy supplies and trade routes amid the Middle East conflict.
However, strong domestic growth, steady credit expansion, and resilient services exports continue to cushion the impact.
Despite rising risks, India has entered this phase from a sector steady.

The scale of disruption is stark. Ship movements through the Strait of Hormuz have nearly come to a standstill, from 200-300 a week to one a week, the review notes. This dramatic slowdown has tightened global oil and gas supply, pushing prices higher and increasing volatility across international markets.

The report warns of supply disruptions to oil, gas and fertilisers, higher import prices, higher logistics costs, and a possible decline in remittances by Indians in the Gulf countries.

These risks are particularly significant for India, which relies heavily on energy imports and has a large expatriate workforce in the Gulf region, contributing to remittance inflows.

Despite the risks, the review says India entered this phase from a position of strength.

On the domestic front, industrial activity has remained resilient.

“Retail inflation rose to a 10-month high of 3.21 per cent in February 2026, driven primarily by a sharp uptick in food prices,” said the review.

At the same time, the financial system continues to support growth. Bank credit expanded strongly, and the overall flow of financial resources to the commercial sector grew at 33.2 per cent (YoY).

The Finance Ministry review report emphasises the need for policy vigilance amid rising uncertainty.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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