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NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov

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NYFW Monday: Tory Burch, Diotima, Zankov


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September 16, 2025

The action in New York Fashion Week was concentrated in Brooklyn on Monday with distinctive and distinguished shows by Tory Burch and Diotima, after the day had opened with Zankov in Chelsea.

Tory Burch – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 

Tory Burch: Fashion in a cathedral of finance

No one can ever fault Tory Burch’s excellent sensibility when it comes to staging a show, especially this season, when she presented inside the luxury condominium skyscraper One Hanson Place.

Originally the HQ of Williamsburg Savings Bank, the main lobby in this former cathedral of finance built in the 1930s contains elements of Romanesque ad Byzantine architecture. Making it the ideal location for this eclectic collection, which blended snappy American sportswear, distressed fabrics and kicky imperfections.
 
Though diverse in its references, the collection was nevertheless coherent its fashion statement and target. Few creators today better understand the needs of busy working women than Burch. Her clothes have polish but are never prim.
 

Tory Burch – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

She takes risks – like a great series of dropped waist skirts and dresses – but manages to pull them off with aplomb. She creates monogram silk sweaters but keeps them playful with myriad letterings. She drapes plissé flared dresses in liquid viscose with gusto.
 
Tory’s aesthetic is cool, cerebral and feminine, but never saccharine or insipid. Her cast looked like busy women brimming with panache armed with a great new Lee Radziwill handbag – each marching with supreme confidence.
 
Little wonder her front-row boasted Naomi Watts, Qin Lan, Tessa Thompson and Emma Roberts.
 
“We were thinking about the complexity of women and different facets of their style. Femininity and strength, precision and imperfection. The clash of pristine tailoring with naïve florals, seed beading with distressed leather,” opined Burch, who took a bow with a huge smile, the sounds of loud clapping echoing off the gilded mosaic ceiling.
 

Diotima: Rejecting colonialism through Carnival

Diotima – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Colonialism, and Caribbean culture’s fightback against that evil via the tradition of Carnival, was the theme of an innovative and intriguing collection from Diotima this season.
 
Yet though riffing on carnival archetypes, the collection was far from being clothes for a pageant. Diotima’s founder Rachel Scott referenced many carnival characters – with names like Baby Doll, Dame Lorraine – but the results were very wearable, cool clothes rather than theatrical statements.
 
Blending elements of active sport and couture: like a hooded sleeveless mesh top and pants finished by a layered skirt in shards of chiffon; or mini waistcoats accompanied by matte viscose crepe knit skirts. Her chevron-finished sequinned mesh bodies will have a huge impact and be copied by lesser talents and high street stores.
 
Scott can drape and sculpt with the best of them, her skill highlighted in some fab crepe lapel-free redingotes, layered asymmetrically below the waist. 
 
Combining all her tricks and techniques into a super series of evening looks, they were worn by a cast with J’Ouvert pre-dawn street festival make-up with daubs of silver mud. That was before a bravura finale of feathery gowns with interior light weight petticoats.
 
Carnival couture received an enormous cheer when Scott took her bow inside a battered old warehouse in Greenpoint.
 
Last year’s winner of the CFDA’s 2024 American Womenswear Designer Award, Scott was recently appointed creative director of Proenza Schouler. In a word, Jamaica-born Scott is also the single most original fashion designer in the Americas today. 
 

Zankov: Knits and stripes in Chelsea

Zankov – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Monday began with a runway debut for Henry Zankov, whose knitwear-driven collections have been attracting a lot of attention of late.
 
Zankov is another recent prizewinner, nabbing the Google Shopping Emerging Designer of the Year title in 2024.
 
So, even though this was Zankov’s catwalks baptism, the show managed to attract buyers from Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Selfridges, Bergdorf and Sherri McMullen, whose chain of boutiques around San Francisco have earned her a reputation as a savvy diviner of coming trends.
 
Presented inside an all-white art gallery in Chelsea to an audience of barely 150, the collection was pretty and pleasing, even if the show never took off.
 
Boasting some eye-boggling fabrics – bonded burlap linens or wrinkled checkerboard intarsias – Zankov’s clothes look novel, though also oddly retro. With too many football jersey carwash stripes, and predictable sequin mesh sheaths. Plus, styling that featured headscarves and daffy sunglasses only managed to remind one of Alessandro Michele’s early Gucci shows a half decade ago. Not exactly a very now look.
 
 

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Indian textile players hail Budget’s ESG & circularity thrust

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Indian textile players hail Budget’s ESG & circularity thrust



India’s textile and fashion industry has welcomed the Union Budget 2026–27’s strong emphasis on sustainability, circularity and responsible manufacturing, calling it a timely shift as global markets tighten environmental expectations and ESG-linked sourcing becomes a key determinant of competitiveness.

Industry stakeholders said the Budget signals a transition away from volume-driven growth towards a value-led, low-carbon and traceable textile ecosystem, supported by initiatives such as the Text-ECO initiative, the National Fibre Scheme, Samarth 2.0, and sustainability-linked capacity building.

Indian textile industry has welcomed the Budget for its strong focus on sustainability, circularity and responsible manufacturing.
Industry leaders said the measures signal a shift towards value-led, low-carbon and traceable growth.
Initiatives such as Text-ECO, Samarth 2.0 and the National Fibre Scheme are seen as strengthening competitiveness, skills and sustainable sourcing across the value chain.

Shruti Singh, Country Director–India at Canopy Planet, said, “This Budget creates enabling conditions for India to lead in manufacturing of low carbon textile fibres and paper packaging. Investing in circular material ecosystems can meet business ESG goals, create domestic fibre security and global export competitiveness,” she said. Singh added that as demand grows across textiles, packaging and paper-based applications, the real test will lie in responsible sourcing. “For companies linked to forest-based supply chains, this is a moment to strengthen traceability, reduce deforestation risk, and move sustainability from intent to execution,” she noted.

From a fashion brand perspective, Amar Nagaram, co-founder of Virgio, said the Budget clearly links sustainability with innovation and design-led growth. “India’s next phase of growth will be driven by the convergence of design, technology and sustainability. The emphasis on sustainable textiles, MSME scale-up, AI-led innovation and design education reflects a long-term vision to move Indian manufacturing up the global value chain,” he said. Nagaram added that the policy direction supports responsible production, data-driven decision-making, and positions India as a credible global hub for future-ready fashion and lifestyle businesses.

At the manufacturing end, Sabhari Girish, chief sustainability officer at Sulochana Cotton Spinning Mills, Tiruppur, said that sustainability and circularity receiving prominence in the Budget is encouraging for the sector. “Circularity and sustainability taking a prominent spot in the Budget speech is a positive signal. The announcement of Text-ECON will help Indian textile companies showcase their environmentally friendly contributions to the world,” he said. Girish noted that upcoming FTAs with the UK and EU are expected to sharpen the focus on sustainability, adding that Samarth 2.0 will play a critical role in skilling the workforce with updated technologies across the value chain, from fibre to garments.

He also pointed out that the National Fibre Scheme could enhance the quality and global competitiveness of Indian-made fibres, though capital-intensive modernisation will require a clear funding roadmap. “Adopting best practices needs more support, and a proper roadmap will help indigenous fibres take centre stage,” Girish said, while welcoming the proposal to upgrade sports goods manufacturing as a boost for R&D and technical textiles.

Industry experts said the Budget’s sustainability-led approach aligns closely with stricter environmental regulations in markets such as the EU and UK, and could strengthen India’s positioning as a responsible, compliant and future-ready sourcing destination.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)



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US inks reciprocal trade agreement with Guatemala

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US inks reciprocal trade agreement with Guatemala



US Trade Representative (USTR) Jamieson Greer and Guatemala’s Minister of Economy Adriana Gabriela Garcia recently signed the United States-Guatemala Agreement on Reciprocal Trade.

“President Trump’s leadership is forging a new direction for trade that promotes partnership and prosperity in Latin America, further strengthening the American economy, supporting American workers, and protecting our national security interests,” said Ambassador Greer in a USTR release.

USTR Jamieson Greer and Guatemala’s Minister of Economy Adriana Gabriela Garcia recently signed the US-Guatemala Agreement on Reciprocal Trade.
The agreement addresses trade barriers facing American workers and producers, expands and solidifies markets for US exports and strengthens strategic economic ties in the Western Hemisphere, Greer said.
US trade body NCTO welcomed the signing.

The agreement addresses trade barriers facing American workers and producers, expands and solidifies markets for US exports and strengthens strategic economic ties in the Western Hemisphere, he said.

“This agreement builds on our long-standing trade relationship and shared interest in reinforcing regional supply chains,” he added.

The key terms of the agreement includes breaking down non-tariff barriers for US industrial and exports, advancing trade facilitation and sound regulatory practices; protecting and enforcing intellectual property; preventing barriers for digital trade; improving labour standards; strengthening environmental protection; strengthening economic security alignment; and confronting state-owned enterprises and subsidies.

Guatemala has committed to take steps to restrict access to central level procurement covered by its free trade agreement commitments for suppliers from non-free trade agreement partners, permitting exemptions as necessary, in a manner comparable to US procurement restrictions.

Welcoming the announcement, National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) president and chief executive officer Kim Glas said the agreement marks an important step toward strengthening the US textile supply chain.

“Guatemala is a key partner in the CAFTA-DR [Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement] region, with nearly $2 billion in two-way textile and apparel trade. Together, the region operates as an integrated co-production platform that is essential to the US textile supply chain,” he noted.

The US-Western Hemisphere textile and apparel supply chain remains ‘a critical strategic alternative’ to China and other Asian producers, he added.

Fibre2Fashion (DS)



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Canada could lift GDP 7% by easing internal trade barriers

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Canada could lift GDP 7% by easing internal trade barriers



Canada could boost long-term economic output by nearly 7 per cent if it dismantles policy-related barriers that restrict the movement of goods, services, and labour across provinces, according to new analysis by the International Monetary Fund (IMF).

Despite being one of the world’s most open economies globally, Canada’s internal market remains fragmented, with non-geographic barriers equivalent to an average 9 per cent tariff nationwide.

Canada could raise long-term GDP by nearly 7 per cent by removing internal trade barriers that restrict interprovincial movement of goods, services, and labour, new analysis shows.
Policy-related frictions act like a 9 per cent internal tariff nationwide.
Liberalising high-impact sectors could deliver productivity-led gains worth about C$210 billion (~$153.04 billion).

Model-based estimates suggest that fully removing these barriers could add around C$210 billion (~$153.04 billion) to real GDP over time, driven largely by productivity gains rather than short-term demand, IMF said in a release.

While full liberalisation will be gradual, targeted reforms in high-impact sectors could deliver sizable benefits and improve economic resilience. Analysts argue that stronger federal–provincial coordination, wider mutual recognition of standards and credentials, and transparent benchmarking of internal trade barriers will be key to turning Canada’s fragmented domestic market into a more integrated national economy.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (HU)



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