Fashion
Out and about in Milan: Santoni, Sergio Rossi, and Giuseppe Zanotti
Published
September 27, 2025
No one loves footwear more than the Italians. As three first rate collections by leading shoe makers underlined this week. These shoes are made for walking, and ruling and seducing.
Santoni: Forms that matter
A collaboration with Venetian artist Lorenzo Vitturi in a project entitle “Forms and Matter” led to some striking new ideas at Santoni this season. Though not a collaboration, the artist’s graphic emphasis seemed to infuse some great new looks in the collection.
A bold series of columns and hangings that combined Vitturi’s vision and Santoni’s finest leathers, orange shoe sole or leather string with Venetian glass – all added to the allure at the Santoni showspace, around the corner from the Duomo.
From the latest version of the bucket bag, made in treated lace to some excellent new airy intreccio slingbacks and boots for gals who want to sizzle. Though the stand-out looks were remarkable new sequinned slingbacks and accompanying bag. Unexpected, exuberant and cool.
In menswear, Santoni also showed a natty new Carlo sneaker, also in suede intreccio.
“Santoni has always been about luxury, but maybe this is even more luxurious,” said Giuseppe Santoni, looking tanned and trim in a caramel Solaro herring bone suit.
“I have had a busy summer, at the office and with a little co-working – on my yacht and making shoes down in the hold!” he joked.
Sergio Rossi: Sculptural chic
Talk about a brilliant display and collection at Sergio Rossi, where designer Paul Andrew incorporated carbon fiber to created shoes of rare sculptural grace.
Seen in some fantastic ostrich skin wedges – made in an undulating form worthy of Antony Gormley. Paul also showed a striking series of glove-shaped metallic shoes that were studded with kisses. And he riffed on the house’s DNA with a superb slip-on made of studded leather.
“Sergio Rossi really was such a genius with the construction of footwear. In this shoe, he developed this form called Contrapunto in the 1950s, where the sole, in-sole and upper are all one piece,” said Andrew, marveling at the design.
Keeping the bravura creation, Paul produced golden leather wedges with biomorphic heels named Sinuous, inspired by a Zaha Hadid statue in the Design District of Miami.
All presented inside Sergio Rossi Milan showrooms on Via Pontaccio, before huge gestural abstract paintings by Richard Zinon. In a word, possibly the most inventive shoe collection we have seen in Milan in the past decade.
Giuseppe Zanotti: From The Slim to Moreau Paris
No presentation this week was busier than Giuseppe Zanotti, who celebrated the most legendary footwear of the recent past with a video installation of The Slim. Presenting a half-dozen examples of the sex-creature shoe.
Famous for having graced the feet of Samantha Jones as the only thing she wore during a steamy sushi scene in “Sex and the City”. Creating a fittingly viral footwear moment.
The Slim was actually born while dining at one of Giuseppe’s favorite seaside spots, Slim, in Cesenatico, Italy. When Zanotti sketched the first design on a tablecloth, turning a discarded fishbone into a precious jewel that sensually drapes across the foot.
“Who would have thought it could have that much impact,” mused the ever-modest Zanotti.
Presented in his Renaissance style palazzo on via Napoleone, the event also featured a cool new co-branding, a capsule collection with Moreau Paris. Using the mini-grid checkerboard monogram of the venerable Moreau Paris – founded in 1882 in the French capital – to make leather sneakers that looked like denim. Talk about range.
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Published
November 17, 2025
Montirex, the UK sports brand based in the Northwest of England has its sights set on the US market and its products are now available there exclusively through JD Sports.
JD is stocking the brand’s signature Trail collection and MTX Run City New York range in the JD Sports Times Square store.
It debuted there late last week, “marking a landmark moment for the brand as it accelerates into new markets”.
The move came ahead of the weekend’s UFC 322 fight, taking place in New York City, where Montirex ambassador Leon Edwards took centre stage in his comeback bout at Madison Square Garden (unfortunately, he lost).
To celebrate the occasion, Montirex had released a short film “following Edwards’ journey back to the cage, narrated by rising Birmingham rapper T.Roadz – paying homage to Leon’s roots and relentless drive”.
The brand also made an impact by unveiling its first-ever US billboard in Times Square ahead of the fight.
Regardless of how Edwards did, the move into the North America market is a key one for the business and comes after sustained growth since the company’s launch in 2019.
The company said it will continue to target making waves in the US into the New Year through its line-up of athlete ambassadors, including English boxer Dalton Smith during his world title challenge in New York on 19 January. Both Smith’s and Edwards’ fights follow English boxer Giorgio Visoli’s recent success during his US debut in Philadelphia last month.
Founded by best friends Daniel Yuen and Kieran Riddell-Austin in Liverpool, Montirex has gown very fast and the company opened its first physical store a little over a year ago.
Yuen said that expanding into the US “is a huge moment for us. The past few years have been a whirlwind of determination and hard work, and we continue to be humbled by the success we’ve had within the UK market. With our sights firmly set on sustained momentum and growth for Montirex, now feels like the perfect time to take the brand across the pond and show the US market what we have to offer.”
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This momentum aligns with a broader shift in global fashion, where sustainability is driving renewed demand for Merino wool across premium, performance, and everyday apparel.
Known for its softness, breathability, and biodegradability, the fibre is increasingly favoured for its natural, traceable, and ethically sourced qualities, particularly among Gen Z and millennial consumers.
Channel-wise, DTC revenue increased 27.6 per cent to CHF 314.7 million, while wholesale rose 23.3 per cent to CHF 479.6 million. All regions contributed, with Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) up 28.6 per cent, the Americas up 10.3 per cent, and Asia-Pacific surging 94.2 per cent. Shoes grew 21.1 per cent, apparel increased 86.9 per cent, and accessories jumped 145.3 per cent.
The profitability strengthened sharply, with gross profit up 35.5 per cent to CHF 522.2 million and gross margin expanding to 65.7 per cent. Net income soared 289.8 per cent to CHF 118.9 million, lifting net margin to 15 per cent, while adjusted EBITDA rose 49.8 per cent to CHF 179.9 million, On said in a press release.
Swiss sportswear company On Holdings has posted strong Q3 and 9M results, with Q3 net sales up 24.9 per cent to CHF 794.4 million (~$1 billion) and sharp gains across DTC, wholesale, and all regions.
Profitability improved, with gross margin at 65.7 per cent and net income up nearly threefold.
For 9M 2025, sales rose 32.6 per cent, supported by strong growth in footwear, apparel, and accessories.
“Our focus on excellence continues to drive powerful global momentum, earning deep trust with consumers and strengthening the core of our business. With an outstanding product pipeline and boosted by the remarkable achievements of On’s athletes that embody our performance spirit, we carry this momentum forward with confidence and energy,” said Caspar Coppetti, co-founder and executive co-chairman of On.
“Our consistent execution continues to bring our strategy to life—winning in performance, elevating our brand, and engaging our expanding global community in credible and consistent ways. We’re strengthening our connection with customers through experiences that showcase our premium positioning – from our most elevated stores to the growing momentum of our apparel business,” said Martin Hoffmann, CEO and CFO of On.
“At the core, our focus on operational excellence and technology is making us faster, smarter, and more agile. These results give us strong confidence—both for a successful holiday season and for the long term, as we continue building the world’s most premium global sportswear brand,” added Hoffmann.
For the nine-month (9M) period, On delivered sustained top-line strength with net sales rising 32.6 per cent to CHF 2,270.2 million (~$2.86 billion), or 37.3 per cent on a constant currency basis. DTC revenue increased 39.2 per cent to CHF 899.9 million, while wholesale climbed 28.7 per cent to CHF 1,370.3 million.
EMEA grew 34.7 per cent, the Americas 19.2 per cent, and Asia-Pacific 106.6 per cent. Shoes rose 29.8 per cent to CHF 2,117.1 million, apparel increased 82.6 per cent, and accessories expanded 127.4 per cent.
The gross profit grew 37.8 per cent to CHF 1,418.3 million, with gross margin improving to 62.5 per cent. Net income, however, decreased 11.9 per cent to CHF 134.6 million, reflecting higher investments and normalised comparisons, while adjusted EBITDA rose 51.2 per cent to CHF 436 million. Cash and cash equivalents stood at CHF 961.8 million, up 4.1 per cent, and net working capital increased 13.4 per cent to CHF 565.8 million.
Looking ahead, the company has raised its full-year guidance, citing continued momentum and a strong product pipeline. It now expects net sales growth of 34 per cent on a constant currency basis, gross margin of around 62.5 per cent, and an adjusted EBITDA margin above 18 per cent.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Montirex US expansion hits landmark moment with JD Sports NYC debut
Why is Merino wool demand increasing?
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