Fashion
Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli
Published
October 2, 2025
Paris enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas’ respectful couture interpretation of Mugler, along with two radically different visions of glamour by fellow Americans – Daniel Roseberry of Texas and Rick Owens of California.
Mugler: Reeking of glamour in La République
Thursday’s big debut was by Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, who invited guests down into an underground parking garage near La République. But if the location was gloomy, the show reeked of glamor.
Miguel joined Mugler with an impressive CV, and there were dollops of his various stints with many major houses and designers – fantasy cocktails with echoes of John Galliano, and strict tailoring from his days at Raf Simons‘ Dior.
Though, above all, this was a couture-worthy interpretation of Mugler, that harked back to the early ’90s when Thierry exploded into haute couture after his beginnings as a ready-to-wear creator. And to a decade later, when Mugler staged truly revolutionary aviary collections.
Miguel’s most beautiful looks riffed on that – two birds of paradise, beguilingly constructed feathered jackets and skirts, showing a designer very much in charge of his atelier. Made in collaboration with Maison Février, a particular genius French feather resource located above the Moulin Rouge.
Miguel’s skilful draping of second-skin leathers in ruched cocktails and gowns completed with leather flowers was boldly dramatic. As was the way he constructed moulded shoulders and necklines that sat off the torso, while his silicon suits with exaggerated hips were excellent.
At times, there was so much beige one could not help recalling he once worked for the Max Mara group. Albeit, leavened by a soupçon of lingerie and transparency to keep things racy, and a series of curtain dresses leaving multiple nipples exposed.
Castro Freitas joined Mugler in March, succeeding Casey Cadwallader, and his grander style eschewed the obsession with S&M that characterized his predecessor’s reign.
The house of Mugler is today controlled by beauty giant L’Oréal, and like most houses run by perfume corporations, the business direction is to emphasize red carpet, influencer and editorial coverage, and not to build a substantial ready-to-wear business.
In that sense, Castro Freitas’ collection seems very suitable. It had drama, polish and pizzazz. And a good front row with Naomi Watts, Eva Herzigová and Pamela Anderson, sporting a redhead look.
Rick Owens: Temple on a fountain
Rick Owens shows are more like works of performance art than mere displays of clothes. His latest spectacle on a cloudy Thursday afternoon turned out to be an epic event.
Returning to his preferred locale – the mammoth fountain of the Palais de Tokyo. And marching his gaunt and glam cast marching down a massive metal stairway right into the water. Dry ice drifting about, scores of speakers booming out Basstrologe’s dramatic remix of “Somebody to Love”, a pen to loyalty in romance. Starring the magnificent vocals of Grace Slick, the Acid Queen and greatest singer from the psychedelic era in California, Rick’s home state.
The show took place just meters away from “Temple of Love”, the bravura exhibition of Owens’ work currently being staged inside the Musée Galliera. Like his menswear show in June, which kicked off the retrospective, this collection was entitled “Temple”.
“This exhibition tracks the pursuit of glamour and sleaze that I was looking for on Hollywood boulevard, and eventually, improbably, ended up displaying in a Paris Museum. I have always thought of what I do as a fascination with the denseness of European aesthetic sophistication seen through a filter of American bluntness,” opined Rick in his program note.
In this very bold collection, the sophistication came in the out-there draping; surreally hung frocks; power-shoulder technical organza dresses; and the remarkable fabrics. Recycled nylon tulle embroidered with sequins; or veg-tanned heavyweight leathers crafted by London designer, Straytukay.
The bluntness in the slashed and fringed oversized leather pants worn with the house’s signature Perspex heeled jackboots ideal for walking in water and for stomping around to Grace Slick’s greatest anthem.
Schiaparelli: Dancing in the Dark
Daniel Roseberry entitled this spring/Summer 2026 collection “Dancer in The Dark” and it was very much his raciest, after-hours selection of clothes.
There is a new refined sexiness present on European runways, and Roseberry’s latest ideas seem very much of the now.
His tailoring was strict, suggesting a domineering female, authoritative and powerful. Snug, neat mess jackets and pencil skirts, exposing midriff – a current rage. Leather second-skin cocktails were embossed around the bosom, others were perforated showing lots of flesh.
Several of Daniel’s models seemed to get entangled in a series of crushed satin looks that didn’t really work, before he got back on track with some beautiful white transparent jersey looks, that founder Elsa would surely have loved.
Quoting Yves Saint Laurent, who called Schiap’, “a comet illuminating the Paris skyline, determined to dominate.” Roseberry clearly wants his clients to do the same thing.
All the way to the hyper-sheer polkadot chiffon jumpsuit in which Kendall Jenner prowled around the after-midnight set. Build inside the top floor of the currently under restoration Pompidou Center, the black carpet twisting, illuminated by theatrical floor lighting – giving the proceedings a faintly diabolical air. And all the better for that.
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Total apparel shipments fell by 2.66 per cent year on year to $425.44 million in January 2026, compared with $437.07 million in the corresponding month of 2025. The performance underscored uneven global demand conditions that continue to influence sourcing patterns and order flows for Sri Lankan manufacturers.
Sri Lanka’s apparel exports declined 2.66 per cent YoY to $425.44 million in January 2026 amid weak global demand.
Shipments to the US and EU softened, while the UK remained stable with slight growth.
Other markets saw sharper contraction.
JAFF highlighted DCTS benefits and tariff changes while suggesting diversification and efficiency to sustain competitiveness.
Exports to the United States, the country’s largest market, decreased by 2.73 per cent to $165.11 million, while shipments to the European Union excluding the United Kingdom, declined by 1.93 per cent to $126.99 million. In contrast, exports to the UK remained broadly stable, rising marginally by 0.23 per cent to $61.71 million. Apparel shipments to other markets dropped more sharply by 6.07 per cent to $71.63 million.
JAAF noted that the UK’s steady performance offers a constructive signal for the sector, particularly as the revised Developing Countries Trading Scheme (DCTS), effective January 1, 2026, is expected to enhance sourcing flexibility and strengthen Sri Lanka’s competitive position in the British market.
The industry body also highlighted the introduction of a uniform 10 per cent temporary tariff in the US market as a relatively supportive development, reducing the impact of previously higher country-specific rates and providing greater short-term pricing predictability for exporters.
Commenting on the January outcome, JAAF said the moderate decline reflects ongoing volatility in global demand. The association emphasised that the industry remains committed to reinforcing resilience through market diversification, product innovation and operational efficiency, while collaborating with stakeholders to sustain Sri Lanka’s standing as a reliable apparel sourcing destination.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)
Profitability remained robust despite a more challenging trading backdrop. Group EBIT stood at €913.4 million, broadly stable year on year (YoY), translating into a 29.2 per cent margin versus 29.5 per cent in FY24. Net profit reached €626.7 million compared with €639.6 million a year earlier, reflecting higher net financial expenses, while maintaining a 20 per cent margin.
Moncler has reported revenues of €3.13 billion (~$3.69 billion) in FY25, up 3 per cent at constant exchange rates, with net profit of €626.7 million (~$739.5 million).
Asia led regional growth, while DTC channels strengthened across brands.
Q4 revenues rose 7 per cent, driven by robust Moncler and Stone Island performance, as the group prepares for continued investment and leadership transition.
Regionally, the group recorded strong momentum in Asia, where revenues rose 7 per cent at constant exchange rates to €1.42 billion, supported by demand in China and Korea and a recovery in tourist flows. The Americas increased 5 per cent to €391.1 million, whereas Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) declined 3 per cent amid subdued tourism-related traffic, Moncler said in a press release.
Channel performance highlighted the continued shift towards direct engagement. Moncler’s direct-to-consumer (DTC) revenues rose 4 per cent to €2.36 billion, accounting for nearly 87 per cent of brand sales, while wholesale declined 4 per cent as the group continued to enhance distribution quality. Stone Island’s DTC channel expanded 11 per cent to €226.4 million, whereas wholesale decreased 4 per cent.
The group’s financial position strengthened further, with net cash reaching €1.46 billion at year-end after dividend payments of €353.2 million. The board proposed a dividend of €1.4 per share and approved the consolidated sustainability statement.
Remo Ruffini, chairman and CEO of Moncler, said: “Moncler and its board of directors wish to express their most sincere thanks to Gabriele Galateri di Genola for his dedication and the highly valuable contribution he has made throughout his more than ten-year term of office. His significant experience, the vision developed over many years in senior leadership positions at leading industrial and financial organisations, as well as his constant commitment to good governance, have represented a key point of reference for our work. With gratitude, we extend our best wishes to Gabriele Galateri di Genola for the future.”
In the fourth quarter (Q4), the group delivered accelerated momentum, with revenues rising 7 per cent at constant exchange rates to €1.29 billion (~$1.52 billion). Moncler brand revenues reached €1.17 billion, up 6 per cent, while Stone Island posted €123.1 million, surging 16 per cent with double-digit growth across all regions.
Moncler’s DTC channel advanced 7 per cent despite a demanding comparable base in the quarter, supported by Asia and the Americas, while wholesale returned to growth, rising 2 per cent. Stone Island recorded broad-based acceleration, with DTC revenues increasing 16 per cent and wholesale climbing 17 per cent, partly reflecting delivery timing shifts from the previous quarter.
Looking ahead, the group emphasised continued investment in brand development and organisational strengthening, including the appointment of Leo Rongone as group chief executive officer from April 2026, as it seeks to sustain long-term growth and value creation.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
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