Fashion
Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli
Published
October 2, 2025
Paris enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas’ respectful couture interpretation of Mugler, along with two radically different visions of glamour by fellow Americans – Daniel Roseberry of Texas and Rick Owens of California.
Mugler: Reeking of glamour in La République
Thursday’s big debut was by Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, who invited guests down into an underground parking garage near La République. But if the location was gloomy, the show reeked of glamor.
Miguel joined Mugler with an impressive CV, and there were dollops of his various stints with many major houses and designers – fantasy cocktails with echoes of John Galliano, and strict tailoring from his days at Raf Simons‘ Dior.
Though, above all, this was a couture-worthy interpretation of Mugler, that harked back to the early ’90s when Thierry exploded into haute couture after his beginnings as a ready-to-wear creator. And to a decade later, when Mugler staged truly revolutionary aviary collections.
Miguel’s most beautiful looks riffed on that – two birds of paradise, beguilingly constructed feathered jackets and skirts, showing a designer very much in charge of his atelier. Made in collaboration with Maison Février, a particular genius French feather resource located above the Moulin Rouge.
Miguel’s skilful draping of second-skin leathers in ruched cocktails and gowns completed with leather flowers was boldly dramatic. As was the way he constructed moulded shoulders and necklines that sat off the torso, while his silicon suits with exaggerated hips were excellent.
At times, there was so much beige one could not help recalling he once worked for the Max Mara group. Albeit, leavened by a soupçon of lingerie and transparency to keep things racy, and a series of curtain dresses leaving multiple nipples exposed.
Castro Freitas joined Mugler in March, succeeding Casey Cadwallader, and his grander style eschewed the obsession with S&M that characterized his predecessor’s reign.
The house of Mugler is today controlled by beauty giant L’Oréal, and like most houses run by perfume corporations, the business direction is to emphasize red carpet, influencer and editorial coverage, and not to build a substantial ready-to-wear business.
In that sense, Castro Freitas’ collection seems very suitable. It had drama, polish and pizzazz. And a good front row with Naomi Watts, Eva Herzigová and Pamela Anderson, sporting a redhead look.
Rick Owens: Temple on a fountain
Rick Owens shows are more like works of performance art than mere displays of clothes. His latest spectacle on a cloudy Thursday afternoon turned out to be an epic event.
Returning to his preferred locale – the mammoth fountain of the Palais de Tokyo. And marching his gaunt and glam cast marching down a massive metal stairway right into the water. Dry ice drifting about, scores of speakers booming out Basstrologe’s dramatic remix of “Somebody to Love”, a pen to loyalty in romance. Starring the magnificent vocals of Grace Slick, the Acid Queen and greatest singer from the psychedelic era in California, Rick’s home state.
The show took place just meters away from “Temple of Love”, the bravura exhibition of Owens’ work currently being staged inside the Musée Galliera. Like his menswear show in June, which kicked off the retrospective, this collection was entitled “Temple”.
“This exhibition tracks the pursuit of glamour and sleaze that I was looking for on Hollywood boulevard, and eventually, improbably, ended up displaying in a Paris Museum. I have always thought of what I do as a fascination with the denseness of European aesthetic sophistication seen through a filter of American bluntness,” opined Rick in his program note.
In this very bold collection, the sophistication came in the out-there draping; surreally hung frocks; power-shoulder technical organza dresses; and the remarkable fabrics. Recycled nylon tulle embroidered with sequins; or veg-tanned heavyweight leathers crafted by London designer, Straytukay.
The bluntness in the slashed and fringed oversized leather pants worn with the house’s signature Perspex heeled jackboots ideal for walking in water and for stomping around to Grace Slick’s greatest anthem.
Schiaparelli: Dancing in the Dark
Daniel Roseberry entitled this spring/Summer 2026 collection “Dancer in The Dark” and it was very much his raciest, after-hours selection of clothes.
There is a new refined sexiness present on European runways, and Roseberry’s latest ideas seem very much of the now.
His tailoring was strict, suggesting a domineering female, authoritative and powerful. Snug, neat mess jackets and pencil skirts, exposing midriff – a current rage. Leather second-skin cocktails were embossed around the bosom, others were perforated showing lots of flesh.
Several of Daniel’s models seemed to get entangled in a series of crushed satin looks that didn’t really work, before he got back on track with some beautiful white transparent jersey looks, that founder Elsa would surely have loved.
Quoting Yves Saint Laurent, who called Schiap’, “a comet illuminating the Paris skyline, determined to dominate.” Roseberry clearly wants his clients to do the same thing.
All the way to the hyper-sheer polkadot chiffon jumpsuit in which Kendall Jenner prowled around the after-midnight set. Build inside the top floor of the currently under restoration Pompidou Center, the black carpet twisting, illuminated by theatrical floor lighting – giving the proceedings a faintly diabolical air. And all the better for that.
Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
FESPA Middle East officially opens next week at the Dubai Exhibition Centre (DEC), welcoming the regional and global digital printing, textile, signage, and screen printing community for three days of technology discovery, skills development and strategic insight.
FESPA Middle East 2026 is set to open next week at Dubai Exhibition Centre, uniting the print, signage and textile community with 150+ exhibitors, free expert conferences, World Wrap Masters, Sustainability Spotlight and the new AI Clinic.
The show focuses on innovation, skills, automation, AI and practical routes to sustainable business growth.
Taking place from 13 – 15 January 2026, the third edition of the event brings together more than 150 global exhibitors and brands, alongside a comprehensive programme of live features and free-to-attend conference sessions designed to support sustainable business growth across the speciality print ecosystem.
Commenting ahead of the show opening, Bazil Cassim, Regional Manager, Middle East & Africa, FESPA, said: “FESPA Middle East has been built around the real priorities and pressures facing our industry today. Businesses within the print, signage and textile industries are navigating rising costs, accelerating technological change and growing expectations around sustainability and skills.
“This event brings those conversations together in one place, combining innovation on the show floor with practical education, live demonstrations and peer exchange that businesses can immediately apply to their own operations.”
Held under the theme Your Industry. Your Community, FESPA Middle East 2026 will showcase the latest products and demonstrations with focused education addressing the most critical challenges shaping the sector – from sustainability and artificial intelligence to automation, creativity and craftsmanship.
Exhibitors include Arlon, AT.Inks, Brother, Color Dec, Cladex Paper, CSIX General Trading, Dilli, Docan, Dynagraph, Epson, Flex Europa, Flora, HandTop, Icon Digital, Interone, Kavalan, Massivit, Mimaki, Mutoh, Nutech Digital Ink, Nazdar, Orafol, Pongs, Serge Ferrari, Soletex, Summa, Triangle, xTool, and ZSK Stickmaschinen.
Taking place across all three days, the FESPA Middle East conference programme will deliver expert-led sessions examining regional market growth, international expansion, digital design, sustainability and the future of production. Speakers from across the print, signage and textile value chain will share real-world case studies and practical strategies, equipping attendees with actionable insight to remain competitive in a rapidly evolving market.
Among them is George Simonian, Professor at BADR University, who will open the programme with an overview of how the regional print market has evolved over the past decade, setting the context for future opportunity. Jon Bailey, Founder of Precision Proco, will share his journey from a local print business to an international production partner, offering practical insight into scaling, global collaboration and maintaining brand consistency.
The programme also explores emerging technology and sustainability in depth. Nita Odedra, Strategy Director at Blue Rhine Industries, will examine how design and signage shape immersive brand experiences. Sustainability-focused sessions include a panel with Debora Isabella Tobing from EPSON Middle East and Raya Makawi an Advisor to Government Affairs, exploring how environmental responsibility can be embedded in organisational culture and long-term business strategy.
One of the show’s most dynamic live features, World Wrap Masters Middle East returns with elite and up-and-coming wrap professionals competing across a series of technical and creative challenges. From vehicle wraps and colour-change films to printed vinyl and paint protection film (PPF), competitors will be judged on precision, finish and efficiency, with the winner securing a coveted place in the World Wrap Masters Finals in Barcelona later this year.
The competition is complemented by live wrap demonstrations and training sessions delivered by internationally recognised experts, offering visitors practical guidance on advanced techniques, detailing and workflow optimisation.
Reflecting the industry’s growing focus on responsible production, the Sustainability Spotlight provides a dedicated platform to explore how sustainability can be embedded in everyday print and signage operations. Through curated content, practical resources and conference sessions, visitors can learn how to adopt sustainable materials, improve efficiency and better communicate environmental credentials to customers.
This focus is reinforced by findings from the new FESPA Print Census, which show that while 92% of print service providers recognise sustainability as important, only 40% currently view it as a core business priority, often due to cost pressures and uncertainty around return on investment. The Sustainability Spotlight addresses this gap by highlighting realistic, commercially viable pathways to progress.
New for 2026, the FESPA AI Clinic, supported by Koshima.AI and led by the company’s founder, Carlo Pepe, responds directly to industry demand for clearer, more practical guidance on artificial intelligence. Census findings have revealed that 39% of print service providers have not yet adopted AI, largely due to skills gaps and limited awareness.
“FESPA Middle East is more than a trade show – it is a meeting point for the industry’s future. By bringing technology, education and community together under one roof, we are creating an environment where businesses can learn, adapt and collaborate. At a time of significant change, the value of coming together as an industry has never been more important,” concluded Cassim.
Attendance at the conference is free for all event visitors.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (HU)
Published
January 9, 2026
Vichy Laboratoires has named model and wellness advocate Emily DiDonato as its new global brand ambassador.
In this role, DiDonato will star in the brand’s new skin and hair care campaigns, as well as serve as its voice on social media.
The appointment comes as the dermocosmetics brand sharpens its focus on integrative health, with DiDonato’s new ambassadorship serving as a springboard for this shift.
“I was drawn to Emily’s genuine embodiment of our brand values, and I am thrilled to welcome her to the Vichy Laboratoires family,” said global brand president of Vichy Laboratoires, Vincent Chauvière.
“In addition to being a talented model and a beloved personality, Emily is also an inspirational voice in the beauty and wellness conversation, widely trusted to lead a path for people to maximize their skin and hair health, inside and out.”
DiDonato began her modelling career at 17 and has since fronted major global campaigns and appeared in leading fashion and beauty titles including Vogue, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. Alongside her fashion career, she has built a parallel platform centred on wellness, earning certifications as a nutrition coach and yoga instructor.
“I can’t believe that today I join the Vichy Laboratoires family as their Global Brand Ambassador,” said DiDonato.
“I feel the Vichy innovations and campaigns always capture this link between health and beauty, which I fully advocate for. Vichy is an iconic French dermo brand that empowers people to become the healthiest version of themselves, and I’m very excited to show you what we’ve been up to!”
Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
By
DPA
Published
January 9, 2026
The sports company Puma has appointed Nadia Kokni as vice president, global brand marketing, effective January 1. In this role, she will report directly to chief brand officer, Maria Valdes.
In her new role, Kokni will oversee the global brand marketing strategy and creative direction, as well as integrated marketing and communications. Her appointment comes as Puma advances its global brand ambitions and sharpens the storytelling around its iconic products and innovations.
Kokni brings extensive international experience in shaping and transforming leading global brands across sports, fashion and lifestyle. She has held senior positions at JD Sports, H&M, adidas, Tommy Hilfiger and, most recently, Hugo Boss, where she served as senior vice president of global marketing and communications. In that role, she led a large-scale brand transformation and accelerated digital initiatives.
“Nadia is a world-class marketing expert who has demonstrated her ability to build modern global brands through strategic clarity, creative excellence and cultural relevance,” said Valdes.
“Her appointment comes at an important time for Puma, as we bring product development and storytelling even closer together. With her leadership, Nadia will help us tell clearer product stories around the world, build greater brand desirability and forge deeper relationships with our consumers.”
Her appointment follows the decision to bring brand marketing, product, creative direction, innovation and go-to-market together into a single global organisation under the leadership of Valdes.
“I am delighted to join Puma at such an exciting time for the brand. The company has an impressive heritage and a clear opportunity to take a leading role at the intersection of sport, culture and performance. I look forward to working with Maria and the teams around the world to tell bold, meaningful stories that inspire our consumers and accelerate Puma’s next phase of growth,” said Kokni.
She replaces Richard Teyssier, who has decided to leave the sporting goods manufacturer to pursue new challenges outside the company.
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