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Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli

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Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli


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October 2, 2025

​Paris enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas’ respectful couture interpretation of Mugler, along with two radically different visions of glamour by fellow Americans – Daniel Roseberry of Texas and Rick Owens of California.
 

Mugler: Reeking of glamour in La République

Thursday’s big debut was by Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, who invited guests down into an underground parking garage near La République. But if the location was gloomy, the show reeked of glamor.

Mugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Miguel joined Mugler with an impressive CV, and there were dollops of his various stints with many major houses and designers – fantasy cocktails with echoes of John Galliano, and strict tailoring from his days at Raf SimonsDior.
 
Though, above all, this was a couture-worthy interpretation of Mugler, that harked back to the early ’90s when Thierry exploded into haute couture after his beginnings as a ready-to-wear creator. And to a decade later, when Mugler staged truly revolutionary aviary collections.

Miguel’s most beautiful looks riffed on that – two birds of paradise, beguilingly constructed feathered jackets and skirts, showing a designer very much in charge of his atelier. Made in collaboration with Maison Février, a particular genius French feather resource located above the Moulin Rouge.

Mugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Miguel’s skilful draping of second-skin leathers in ruched cocktails and gowns completed with leather flowers was boldly dramatic. As was the way he constructed moulded shoulders and necklines that sat off the torso, while his silicon suits with exaggerated hips were excellent.
 
At times, there was so much beige one could not help recalling he once worked for the Max Mara group. Albeit, leavened by a soupçon of lingerie and transparency to keep things racy, and a series of curtain dresses leaving multiple nipples exposed.
 
Castro Freitas joined Mugler in March, succeeding Casey Cadwallader, and his grander style eschewed the obsession with S&M that characterized his predecessor’s reign.

Mugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The house of Mugler is today controlled by beauty giant L’Oréal, and like most houses run by perfume corporations, the business direction is to emphasize red carpet, influencer and editorial coverage, and not to build a substantial ready-to-wear business.
 
In that sense, Castro Freitas’ collection seems very suitable. It had drama, polish and pizzazz. And a good front row with Naomi Watts, Eva Herzigová and Pamela Anderson, sporting a redhead look.
 
Rick Owens: Temple on a fountain 
Rick Owens shows are more like works of performance art than mere displays of clothes. His latest spectacle on a cloudy Thursday afternoon turned out to be an epic event.

Rick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Returning to his preferred locale – the mammoth fountain of the Palais de Tokyo. And marching his gaunt and glam cast marching down a massive metal stairway right into the water. Dry ice drifting about, scores of speakers booming out Basstrologe’s dramatic remix of “Somebody to Love”, a pen to loyalty in romance. Starring the magnificent vocals of Grace Slick, the Acid Queen and greatest singer from the psychedelic era in California, Rick’s home state.
 
The show took place just meters away from “Temple of Love”, the bravura exhibition of Owens’ work currently being staged inside the Musée Galliera. Like his menswear show in June, which kicked off the retrospective, this collection was entitled “Temple”. 

Rick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“This exhibition tracks the pursuit of glamour and sleaze that I was looking for on Hollywood boulevard, and eventually, improbably, ended up displaying in a Paris Museum. I have always thought of what I do as a fascination with the denseness of European aesthetic sophistication seen through a filter of American bluntness,” opined Rick in his program note.
 
In this very bold collection, the sophistication came in the out-there draping; surreally hung frocks; power-shoulder technical organza dresses; and the remarkable fabrics. Recycled nylon tulle embroidered with sequins; or veg-tanned heavyweight leathers crafted by London designer, Straytukay.

Rick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The bluntness in the slashed and fringed oversized leather pants worn with the house’s signature Perspex heeled jackboots ideal for walking in water and for stomping around to Grace Slick’s greatest anthem.
 

Schiaparelli: Dancing in the Dark

Daniel Roseberry entitled this spring/Summer 2026 collection “Dancer in The Dark” and it was very much his raciest, after-hours selection of clothes.

Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris – Courtesy

 
There is a new refined sexiness present on European runways, and Roseberry’s latest ideas seem very much of the now.
 
His tailoring was strict, suggesting a domineering female, authoritative and powerful. Snug, neat mess jackets and pencil skirts, exposing midriff – a current rage. Leather second-skin cocktails were embossed around the bosom, others were perforated showing lots of flesh.
 
Several of Daniel’s models seemed to get entangled in a series of crushed satin looks that didn’t really work, before he got back on track with some beautiful white transparent jersey looks, that founder Elsa would surely have loved.

Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris – Courtesy

Quoting Yves Saint Laurent, who called Schiap’, “a comet illuminating the Paris skyline, determined to dominate.” Roseberry clearly wants his clients to do the same thing. 
 
All the way to the hyper-sheer polkadot chiffon jumpsuit in which Kendall Jenner prowled around the after-midnight set. Build inside the top floor of the currently under restoration Pompidou Center, the black carpet twisting, illuminated by theatrical floor lighting – giving the proceedings a faintly diabolical air. And all the better for that.

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Australian business confidence plunges in March amid uncertainty: NAB

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Australian business confidence plunges in March amid uncertainty: NAB



Australian business confidence fell sharply in March as heightened global uncertainty weighed heavily on sentiment, while business conditions remained resilient, according to the latest National Australia Bank (NAB) Monthly Business Survey.

The March survey showed business confidence dropped 29 points to -29 index points, marking one of the steepest monthly declines on record, with similar falls previously seen only during the Global Financial Crisis and the onset of COVID-19, NAB said in a press release.

Despite the sharp fall in sentiment, business conditions eased only marginally, slipping by 1 point to 6 index points, indicating that economic activity has yet to fully reflect the impact of the external shock.

Australian business confidence plunged in March, falling 29 points to -29, while business conditions remained relatively stable, according to NAB.
Despite strong capacity utilisation, forward orders and capital expenditure weakened, signalling rising uncertainty.
Cost pressures intensified, with purchase costs doubling.
While some regions saw improved conditions, confidence declined nationwide.

The divergence suggests that while businesses are increasingly cautious about the outlook, operational momentum has remained intact so far. Capacity utilisation edged up to 83.1 per cent, staying well above its long-run average, with most industries continuing to operate at elevated levels.

However, forward-looking indicators signalled emerging weakness. Forward orders fell into negative territory, erasing gains made earlier in 2026, while capital expenditure also declined, reflecting rising uncertainty among businesses.

The impact of the geopolitical situation was more pronounced on costs, with purchase cost growth doubling to 3 per cent on a quarterly basis. Product price growth also increased, while labour cost growth remained steady.

Sector-wise, the decline in conditions was broad-based, with transport and utilities. Regionally, conditions improved in some areas such as Western Australia and South Australia, but confidence fell across all regions, highlighting widespread concern.

NAB noted that while the economy entered this period with solid momentum, the sharp deterioration in confidence underscores growing risks to the outlook as geopolitical tensions continue to weigh on business sentiment and future activity.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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US’ Saks Global secures $500 mn as it eyes post-bankruptcy exit

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US’ Saks Global secures 0 mn as it eyes post-bankruptcy exit



American multi-brand luxury retailer Saks Global Enterprises LLC has entered into a restructuring support agreement with an ad hoc group of senior secured bondholders, securing a commitment of $500 million in exit financing as it progresses through Chapter 11 bankruptcy proceedings, with plans to emerge by summer.

The company said the agreement marks a key milestone in its transformation journey, reflecting continued support from capital partners.

Saks Global has secured $500 million in exit financing under a restructuring support agreement as it progresses through Chapter 11, targeting emergence by summer.
The company is advancing its reorganisation plan, strengthening brand partnerships and inventory flows, with over 650 brands resuming shipments.
Improved inventory has boosted customer engagement, while it aims for double-digit EBITDA margins.

“Achieving this important milestone underscores the progress we are making on our transformation and reflects our capital partners’ confidence in our go-forward vision,” said Geoffroy van Raemdonck, CEO at Saks Global.

Saks Global is currently engaging with stakeholders on a formal Plan of Reorganisation, expected to be filed in the coming weeks. The retailer aims to emerge from Chapter 11 by summer with a strengthened financial structure, targeting double-digit adjusted EBITDA margins and long-term sustainable growth, the company said in a press release.

The company plans to leverage an integrated retail model, combining optimised physical stores in key luxury markets with distinct e-commerce platforms and remote selling capabilities. It also intends to enhance its curated product offering through stronger brand partnerships and deeper customer insights.

Operationally, Saks Global reported progress since filing for bankruptcy protection. Over 650 brand partners have resumed shipments, unlocking $1.5 billion in retail receipts and covering more than 90 per cent of expected inventory for the first quarter of fiscal 2026. March inventory receipts rose 18 per cent year on year (YoY).

Improved inventory flow has translated into stronger customer engagement, with spend per store visit increasing 6 per cent and online conversion rising 11 per cent. The company also noted gains in full-price selling across its banners, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.

“As we advance the restructuring process, our focus remains on strengthening brand relationships and delivering personalised luxury experiences,” added van Raemdonck, highlighting confidence in completing the restructuring with sufficient liquidity and positioning the business for future growth.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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Germany unveils $1.9-bn fuel price relief package amid energy shock

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Germany unveils .9-bn fuel price relief package amid energy shock



Germany yesterday announced a €1.6-billion ($1.9-billion) fuel price relief package for households and businesses struggling with the energy shock triggered by the Middle East conflict.

Following talks between his CDU party and its coalition partners, Chancellor Friedrich Merz said his government has decided to cut the tax on petrol and diesel by around 17 euro cents ($0.19) for two months.

Germany yesterday announced a €1.6-billion ($1.9-billion) fuel price relief package for households and businesses struggling with the energy shock triggered by the Middle East conflict.
Chancellor Friedrich Merz said his government has decided to cut the tax on petrol and diesel by around $0.19 for two months.
The funds for the relief measures would be financed by higher taxes on tobacco.

The announcement followed another surge in oil prices after the US-Iran peace talks collapsed and US President Donald Trump’s decision to blockade the Strait of Hormuz.

The war “is the root cause of the problems we face in our own country”, said Merz, stressing that Berlin is doing all it could to try to end the conflict.

“This will very quickly improve the situation for drivers and businesses in the country, and above all for those who, mainly for professional reasons, spend a great deal of time on the road,” he told a news conference in Berlin.

The funds for the relief measures would be financed by higher taxes on tobacco, a finance ministry spokesman was cited as saying by global newswires.

Employers can also pay staff tax-free bonuses of up to €1,000 ($1,170) to mitigate the impacts of inflation, which has already started rising in Germany, the government announced.

“At the same time, we cannot offset every single outcome on the market with government funds… The state cannot absorb all uncertainties, not all risks, not all disruptions in global politics,” Merz cautioned.

He said the war’s effects are likely to last long. “The German economy will face a significant burden over an extended period,” he added.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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