Fashion
Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli
Published
October 2, 2025
Paris enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas’ respectful couture interpretation of Mugler, along with two radically different visions of glamour by fellow Americans – Daniel Roseberry of Texas and Rick Owens of California.
Mugler: Reeking of glamour in La République
Thursday’s big debut was by Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, who invited guests down into an underground parking garage near La République. But if the location was gloomy, the show reeked of glamor.
Miguel joined Mugler with an impressive CV, and there were dollops of his various stints with many major houses and designers – fantasy cocktails with echoes of John Galliano, and strict tailoring from his days at Raf Simons‘ Dior.
Though, above all, this was a couture-worthy interpretation of Mugler, that harked back to the early ’90s when Thierry exploded into haute couture after his beginnings as a ready-to-wear creator. And to a decade later, when Mugler staged truly revolutionary aviary collections.
Miguel’s most beautiful looks riffed on that – two birds of paradise, beguilingly constructed feathered jackets and skirts, showing a designer very much in charge of his atelier. Made in collaboration with Maison Février, a particular genius French feather resource located above the Moulin Rouge.
Miguel’s skilful draping of second-skin leathers in ruched cocktails and gowns completed with leather flowers was boldly dramatic. As was the way he constructed moulded shoulders and necklines that sat off the torso, while his silicon suits with exaggerated hips were excellent.
At times, there was so much beige one could not help recalling he once worked for the Max Mara group. Albeit, leavened by a soupçon of lingerie and transparency to keep things racy, and a series of curtain dresses leaving multiple nipples exposed.
Castro Freitas joined Mugler in March, succeeding Casey Cadwallader, and his grander style eschewed the obsession with S&M that characterized his predecessor’s reign.
The house of Mugler is today controlled by beauty giant L’Oréal, and like most houses run by perfume corporations, the business direction is to emphasize red carpet, influencer and editorial coverage, and not to build a substantial ready-to-wear business.
In that sense, Castro Freitas’ collection seems very suitable. It had drama, polish and pizzazz. And a good front row with Naomi Watts, Eva Herzigová and Pamela Anderson, sporting a redhead look.
Rick Owens: Temple on a fountain
Rick Owens shows are more like works of performance art than mere displays of clothes. His latest spectacle on a cloudy Thursday afternoon turned out to be an epic event.
Returning to his preferred locale – the mammoth fountain of the Palais de Tokyo. And marching his gaunt and glam cast marching down a massive metal stairway right into the water. Dry ice drifting about, scores of speakers booming out Basstrologe’s dramatic remix of “Somebody to Love”, a pen to loyalty in romance. Starring the magnificent vocals of Grace Slick, the Acid Queen and greatest singer from the psychedelic era in California, Rick’s home state.
The show took place just meters away from “Temple of Love”, the bravura exhibition of Owens’ work currently being staged inside the Musée Galliera. Like his menswear show in June, which kicked off the retrospective, this collection was entitled “Temple”.
“This exhibition tracks the pursuit of glamour and sleaze that I was looking for on Hollywood boulevard, and eventually, improbably, ended up displaying in a Paris Museum. I have always thought of what I do as a fascination with the denseness of European aesthetic sophistication seen through a filter of American bluntness,” opined Rick in his program note.
In this very bold collection, the sophistication came in the out-there draping; surreally hung frocks; power-shoulder technical organza dresses; and the remarkable fabrics. Recycled nylon tulle embroidered with sequins; or veg-tanned heavyweight leathers crafted by London designer, Straytukay.
The bluntness in the slashed and fringed oversized leather pants worn with the house’s signature Perspex heeled jackboots ideal for walking in water and for stomping around to Grace Slick’s greatest anthem.
Schiaparelli: Dancing in the Dark
Daniel Roseberry entitled this spring/Summer 2026 collection “Dancer in The Dark” and it was very much his raciest, after-hours selection of clothes.

There is a new refined sexiness present on European runways, and Roseberry’s latest ideas seem very much of the now.
His tailoring was strict, suggesting a domineering female, authoritative and powerful. Snug, neat mess jackets and pencil skirts, exposing midriff – a current rage. Leather second-skin cocktails were embossed around the bosom, others were perforated showing lots of flesh.
Several of Daniel’s models seemed to get entangled in a series of crushed satin looks that didn’t really work, before he got back on track with some beautiful white transparent jersey looks, that founder Elsa would surely have loved.

Quoting Yves Saint Laurent, who called Schiap’, “a comet illuminating the Paris skyline, determined to dominate.” Roseberry clearly wants his clients to do the same thing.
All the way to the hyper-sheer polkadot chiffon jumpsuit in which Kendall Jenner prowled around the after-midnight set. Build inside the top floor of the currently under restoration Pompidou Center, the black carpet twisting, illuminated by theatrical floor lighting – giving the proceedings a faintly diabolical air. And all the better for that.
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Fashion
ASEAN+3 nations must safeguard fiscal viability, rebuild buffers: AMRO
At the same time, growing demands on fiscal policy require governments not only to respond to immediate shocks, but also to support growth, facilitate structural transformation and reduce poverty and inequality over the medium to long term, it noted.
With fiscal positions weakened and policy space narrowed, ASEAN+3 policymakers must safeguard fiscal sustainability and rebuild buffers, the ASEAN+3 Fiscal Policy Report 2026 said.
Governments should also support growth, facilitate structural transformation and reduce poverty and inequality over the medium to long term, it noted.
Particular attention should be given to liabilities outside the budget.
ASEAN+3 comprises members of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, along with China, South Korea and Japan.
These competing demands are compounded by sluggish revenue growth and rigid budget structures. Addressing these challenges will require stronger fiscal management frameworks, including improvements in risk management, fiscal aggregate management, strategic resource allocation, spending efficiency and revenue mobilisation.
The report also highlights the importance of comprehensive fiscal risk management, urging policymakers to strengthen the identification, assessment and disclosure of fiscal risks.
Particular attention should be given to liabilities outside the budget, including borrowing by off-budget public entities and government arrears.
Systematic monitoring and proactive management of contingent liabilities are essential, especially those related to government guarantees, public-private partnerships, state-owned enterprises and social security obligations, the report remarked.
Enhancing fiscal aggregate management, alongside improving strategic resource allocation and spending efficiency, will be critical to meeting rising expenditure demands in line with national priorities, while safeguarding fiscal sustainability and rebuilding buffers, it added.
The report further encourages policymakers to implement comprehensive and durable revenue-enhancing measures, including strengthening tax administration—particularly through digitalisation—rationalising tax expenditures and advancing structural reforms to major taxes.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Trade bodies call for moving HR 4930 forward in US legislative process
The piece of legislation, aimed at addressing long-standing challenges to the enforcement of intellectual property rights (IPR) at US borders, was reported with unanimous, bipartisan support from the House Ways and Means Committee.
AAFA along with 18 other trade bodies recently wrote to Congressional leadership in the US House of Representatives seeking support to move HR 4930 forward in the legislative process.
The piece of legislation, aimed at addressing long-standing challenges to the enforcement of IPR at US borders, was reported with unanimous, bipartisan support from the House Ways and Means Committee.
“We encourage you to move swiftly in bringing the bill to the Floor,” the letter noted.
In fiscal 2023-2024, US Customs & Border Protection (CBP) seized over 32 million counterfeit and pirated items, valued in excess of $5 billion, across more than 300 ports of entry, the letter noted.
“More disconcerting though is the rate at which those figures are increasing. In just the past five years, the number of illicit goods seized by CBP has more than doubled, while the value of those goods has grown by more than 400 per cent,” the letter said.
“The cost of this criminal trafficking cannot be measured in dollars alone though, but in the injuries caused by often dangerous fakes that put consumers’ health and safety at risk, in diminished investments to drive the next wave of innovation by American businesses, in jobs lost
to unfair competition, and increasingly, by the threats such products pose to our national security,” the letter said.
The overwhelming volume of trade passing through U.S. ports, and the speed at which it moves, presents a significant obstacle to effective border enforcement, it noted.
While Congress has expressed a clear desire in recent years for greater partnership between the public and private sectors on these issues, CBP has raised concerns over both the scope of its authority to share information with, and to seek assistance from, its partners in the private sector in carrying out its IP enforcement mission, it said.
HR 4930 clarifies and expands the agency’s authority, offering practical tools to safeguard consumers and legitimate businesses.
“It is essential that CBP has the ability to work with relevant stakeholders throughout the supply chain, both to avoid the siloing of information that has often hindered the agency’s efficiency, and to ensure that the private sector can offer effective and timely assistance on matters of trade enforcement, thereby ensuring that bad actors and trade cheats are held accountable,” the letter added.
The trade associations which signed the letter include Baby Safety Alliance, International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition, International Intellectual Property Association, Personal Care Products Council and Transnational Alliance to Combat Illicit Trade.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
UK revises intellectual property fee structure effective April 2026
This marks the first comprehensive revision in decades, with the last fee increases recorded in 1998 for trademarks, 2016 for designs, and 2018 for patents. The IPO stated that the changes aim to address a 32 per cent rise in inflation since 2016 while supporting continued investment in digital systems and services.
The UK IPO has increased fees for trademarks, designs and patents from April 1, 2026 under new rules, marking the first major revision in years.
The move reflects a 32 per cent rise in inflation since 2016 and aims to support continued investment in digital systems and services, with transitional provisions applicable for certain filings and payments.
The updated fees apply to all applications and payments made on or after April 1, 2026. Transitional provisions have also been outlined for certain cases. For designs, deferred registration requests submitted from April 1 onwards will be subject to the new fees, even if the original application was filed earlier.
For trademarks, applicants using the permitted period of grace may still be eligible to pay the previous fee, provided the application was filed before April 1 and any outstanding payment is completed within the IPO’s deadline.
Separately, UKFT has submitted industry feedback to the IPO regarding the UK’s updated Design Framework, which is expected to be announced later this year.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (JP)
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