Fashion
The 40th Festival de Hyères opened on Thursday, buoyed by palpable enthusiasm
Published
October 17, 2025
The atmosphere on the forecourt of Villa Noailles was effervescent, with a tightly packed crowd delighted to be back together again this year at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories. Yet this must-attend event for fashion and emerging talent had been under threat from a severe budget crisis. In the crowd, there was palpable relief and a determination to do everything possible to make this 40th edition a success.
On the roof of the imposing rationalist building that hosts the event on the heights of Hyères, in the Var, a flag bearing a multicoloured sun flies. The flag was designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who is on the Fashion competition jury. He stands alongside the other juries and institutional representatives on the new stage set up in the garden for the opening ceremony, set against the backdrop of another large rainbow sun. This new arrangement, a departure from the usual ritual at the villa entrance, gently signals the transition.
“This sun represents what Villa Noailles is all about: dream, creation… It’s the sun that will celebrate this 40th edition,” declared Pascale Mussard, the institution’s president, the first to speak on Thursday evening, thanking “all the people who make the Festival possible”.
The mayor of Hyères, Jean-Pierre Giran, followed suit, thanking, not without a certain emotion, all those present. “There are many of you here, and that’s what matters most, demonstrating your commitment to this project of creativity, modernity and youth,” he told the audience.
“This Festival project is one of a kind, particularly in terms of its reach and longevity,” emphasises Hugo Lucchino, the new general manager of the Villa Noailles art centre, who oversees not only the renowned competition for young designers but also other events such as Design Parade.
Having taken up his post just a few days ago, he pays tribute to his predecessor, Jean-Pierre Blanc, the Festival’s emblematic founder. The mayor and Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, also pay tribute.
Before declaring the Festival officially open, Lucchino also thanked, “for their unfailing support,” the partners who have all stepped up at this pivotal moment for Villa Noailles. These include local institutional partners and the French Ministry of Culture, as well as private sponsors such as Chanel, Le 19M, LVMH, Hermès, Supima, Kering, American Vintage and Première Classe, to name but a few.
Support for creativity
“I’m really happy, I feel there’s incredible energy. You can sense that everyone is fully on board. We all want it to continue, because it’s a great festival,” said designer Lutz Huelle, who was on the jury in 2015. “We’re witnessing a kind of ‘reset’. The fact that there’s no jury president this year, but only fashion professionals, is a good idea, because Hyères is, above all, a Festival for young designers and students.”
Mauro Grimaldi, a consultant in the luxury sector who has been attending the event for thirty years, reiterated how important it is to support events of this kind.
“All anyone talks about is money, but it’s crucial to support independent creativity, because the young talent it generates is what feeds the fashion industry. That’s why this is a key edition,” he concluded.
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Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Published
October 18, 2025
Recognised as a protected geographical indication in France, Dentelle de Calais-Caudry says it has begun the process of becoming a European geographical indication to better protect its identity against low-grade counterfeits.
From December 1, the European Union will introduce a simplified procedure under Regulation 2024/1143, which now governs geographical indications and protected designations of origin across its Member States.
Crucially, Europe is now extending a protection regime to artisanal, manufactured, and industrial products, which was previously reserved for agricultural produce, foodstuffs, and spirits.
“The Dentelliers de Calais-Caudry have already applied to the INPI, which is responsible for forwarding their application to the EUIPO (European Union Intellectual Property Office), so that their geographical indication can be recognised throughout the European Union”, say the Calais and Caudry lacemakers.
Dentelle de Calais-Caudry became a regulated geographical indication in France at the beginning of 2024. It took the local industry’s representatives five years to achieve this goal, which aims to distinguish and protect know-how that is more than two centuries old, and relies on the use of imposing, complex Leavers looms, which lend their name to the lace they produce. In 1958, the “Dentelle de Calais” label was launched, and in 2015 it became “Dentelle de Calais-Caudry”, to include manufacturers from the Caudry area.
“Regularly confronted with very poor-quality counterfeits that damage their image and sales, the lacemakers of Calais-Caudry will, by obtaining this European geographical indication, benefit from legal protection across the 27 countries of the Union”, says the label, which hopes that “this guarantee of authenticity and quality, which will reassure all designers, stylists and lovers of Calais-Caudry lace, will help safeguard this know-how, these ‘passion’ trades, and accelerate international development.”
Today, Calais-Caudry lace is produced in Calais by Codentel, Cosetex, Noyon (Darquer), and Sophie Hallette / Riechers Marescot, which also operates in Caudry. The town is also home to Beauvillain Davoine, Darquer & Méry, Dentelles André Laude, Dentelles MC, Jean Bracq, and Solstiss.
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The new directive aims to cut waste, reduce environmental damage, and strengthen the EU’s economic resilience by driving sustainable innovation and decreasing reliance on raw materials. It aligns with the EU’s Competitiveness Compass and Strategic Agenda for 2024–29, European Commission said in a press release.
The European Union’s revised Waste Framework Directive came into effect yesterday, establishing unified rules for EPR in textiles and setting binding targets to reduce food waste.
Aimed at cutting waste and boosting circularity, it requires Member States to set up EPR schemes, reduce food waste by up to 30 per cent by 2030, and promote eco-modulated fees, and sustainable design.
The EU’s textile and clothing industry remains an economic powerhouse, generating €170 billion (~$198.9 billion) in 2023 and employing 1.3 million people across nearly 197,000 companies. Yet, it is also one of the most resource-intensive sectors, ranking third in water and land use impact and fifth in raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019 alone, the EU generated 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only one-fifth separately collected for reuse or recycling.
To address these challenges, the revised directive introduces two major sets of measures to promote circularity and competitiveness:
- Under mandatory EPR schemes, each Member State must establish a system requiring producers of textiles and footwear to pay fees for every product placed on the market. These funds will finance collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal operations. The fees will also support consumer awareness campaigns and R&D in sustainable design and waste prevention. EPR fees will vary according to sustainability criteria under the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)—a principle known as eco-modulation. Producers will pay less for durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products, incentivising circular design.
- The directive also sets new rules for managing used textiles, ensuring that all separately collected textiles are classified as waste to prevent false reuse labelling and illegal exports. Unsorted textile waste will fall under the Waste Shipment Regulation.
Member States have 20 months to transpose the directive into national law and 30 months to set up their textile and footwear EPR schemes. Competent authorities must be designated by January 17, 2026, and updated food waste prevention plans finalised by October 17, 2027.
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