Fashion
Trump tariffs a stone in the shoe of ‘made in USA’ cowboy boots
By
AFP
Published
August 15, 2025
The manufacture of iconic “made in the USA” cowboy boots is set to suffer from President Donald Trump‘s 30% tariffs on South African exports that came into force in August.
Texas’s most renowned makers of the southern US fashion staple source the ostrich leather they require exclusively from the small South African town of Oudtshoorn, 400 kilometres (250 miles) east of Cape Town.
Known as the world’s “ostrich capital”, Oudtshoorn is nestled in the semi-arid Little Karoo valley just inland from the southern coast and is home to a few hundred thousand people and about as many of the giant flightless birds.
“We just don’t know how bad the impact will be, but positive it wouldn’t be,” said ostrich farmer Laubscher Coetzee of the tariffs that kicked in after South Africa appeared unable to negotiate a new trade deal with Trump.
More than half of the global supply of ostrich-derived products — from feathers to leather and meat — comes from nearly 200 farmers around Oudtshoorn who are joined in the Cape Karoo International (CKI) group, said its managing director Francois de Wet.
South Africa as a whole supplies about 70% of the world’s production, he said.
Luxury handbag manufacturers in France and Italy are among the CKI’s main clients. It also ships 20% of its ostrich leather to top Texas bootmakers such as Lucchese, Justin and Rios of Mercedes, whose boots are sold at several hundreds of dollars a pair.
Ostrich is “an extremely important leather in our industry”, Ryan Vaughan, CEO of the Rios of Mercedes manufacturer, told AFP.
“It’s very resilient, it forms to the foot,” he said, wearing a typical cowboy hat. Coming from “a long line of cattle ranchers”, his family brand was born in Texas in 1853 and employs 250 people.
The tariffs “would make a dramatic impact in our business and in the western industry,” he said, “because it’s not just us that build a lot of cowboy boots out of ostrich leather”.
It is also the case of Tony Lama, an El Paso bootmaker supplied by CKI that has given a pair to every recent Republican president. Donald Trump received cowboy boots emblazoned with “MAGA” made out of “American alligator” skin, according to a press release.
De Wet from the CKI said he believed the South African supply of ostrich leather to the US manufacturers did not run counter to a push by the Trump administration for production to be brought home. The United States did not have enough ostriches to provide the required leather, he said.
“We export the raw material, the ostrich leather. They can’t produce it from local ostriches in the US. They don’t have them,” he told AFP.
“They do all the value-adding in the United States,” he said. “So therefore, in terms of the pure definition of what the Trump administration would like to see, in this case, we do it already.”
The soft skins, recognisable by spots left by the large ostrich feathers, are currently sold to American manufacturers for around $20 a square foot.
“We exported more than the usual volume of ostrich leather to the US in the past two-three months, so we have a little bit of a buffer,” said de Wet.
“For the moment we don’t expect any layoffs in the short term,” he said. But “in the long term, if we have to pick up the full tariff, it will definitely… cause a shrinkage of our business.”
The consumer could also not be expected to pay an extra 30% for the already pricey boots, he said. “So the tariff will have to be split between the exporter… and the importer, and preferably also a part paid by the end consumer.”
It is the unique climate of the Little Karoo, which gets less than 400 millimetres (nearly 16 inches) of rain a year, that makes it ideal for ostrich rearing, said Coetzee, a fourth-generation Oudtshoorn farmer. “That is the reason the ostrich industry is still here 200 years after (it started),” he said.
His great-grandfather built the family home in 1896, when the price of ostrich feathers rivalled that of gold because of their value to the women’s fashion industry.
The extravagant “ostrich palaces” of the time are a reminder of the industry’s previous major crisis, when the market collapsed in the early 1900s as the arrival of the low-roofed motor car ended the fashion for high-feathered hats.
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Fashion
Bangladesh road map aims at raising tax-to-GDP ratio to 15% by 2035
The model will be fuelled by both domestic and foreign direct investment. The country’s tax-to-GDP ratio currently sits at the bottom level globally.
Rashed Al Mahmud Titumir, Prime Minister’s Adviser Finance and Planning, recently outlined a comprehensive road map to overhaul the country’s economic framework, setting a target to raise the tax-GDP ratio to 15 per cent by 2035, while taking the nation forward on a path of investment-led growth.
A key pillar of this transition is a significant increase in internal resource mobilisation, he said.
A key pillar of this transition is a significant increase in internal resource mobilisation, he said.
“The previous consumption-led growth model was unsustainable and had left the country burdened by a mountain of debt accumulated particularly between 2009 and 2024,” he told a recent roundtable on the government’s priorities in the short-to-medium term.
The roundtable was organised by the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) and The Daily Star newspaper.
There is a need for a tax culture rooted in investment, production and employment, he was cited as saying by domestic media reports.
He identified several systemic maladies in the current revenue structure that require urgent reform.
The government intends to move from greenfield incentives (based on identity and influence) to performance-based subsidies (ex-post subsidies), he said, adding that this model, which proved successful in the garments sector, will reward actual results rather than potential.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Australian wool market gains on strong merino demand
“A smaller offering of 37,212 bales, combined with a softer Australian dollar, helped support the market and drive solid gains, particularly in the Merino sector. Year-on-year, the EMI now sits 542 cents (44.2 per cent) higher,” the Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) Limited said in its Commentary for week 36 of the current Australian wool marketing season.
Strong demand for finer Merino wool, supported by a weaker Australian dollar and tighter supply, continues to lift Australian wool prices.
While Merino segments posted significant gains, crossbred wools lagged.
With higher offerings expected next week, the market’s resilience will depend on sustained global demand and buyer confidence in premium-quality fibre.
Premium prices were recorded for high-strength, well-styled Merino fleece, while discounts remained evident in lots with higher vegetable matter, poorer colour and lower style grades. Finer Merino wools showed the strongest gains, increasing by 90 to 95 cents across selling centres, with Fremantle leading the rise as these types advanced by 115 to 120 cents. Medium Merino wool also attracted solid demand, gaining around 80 to 85 cents, the AWI commentary noted.
In contrast, the crossbred segment experienced a quieter week, slipping by 5 to 10 cents. The cardings market in the eastern selling centres maintained its positive momentum, rising 35 to 40 cents, while cardings in the western region eased by 5 to 10 cents.
Following the latest price surge, next week’s offering is expected to expand as sellers respond to favourable market conditions. A total of 45,973 bales is scheduled for auction across all three centres. Fremantle and Sydney will conduct sales on Tuesday and Wednesday, while Melbourne will auction wool on Wednesday and Thursday.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)
Fashion
OVS brings Italian fashion to Mumbai retail scene
This opening will mark OVS’ second store in India, following its flagship debut in New Delhi in October 2025, and underscores the brand’s long-term commitment to the Indian market.
OVS will launch its first Mumbai store on March 14 at Sky City Mall, Borivali, expanding its India presence after debuting in New Delhi in October 2025.
The 11,000 sq ft outlet will feature womenswear, menswear and kidswear, including premium labels such as PIOMBO and Les Copains.
The move reflects strong early performance and OVS’ long-term growth plans in India.
Spanning approximately 11,000 sq. ft., the Mumbai store will introduce customers to OVS’ latest global retail concept, designed to deliver a modern and seamless shopping experience. Reflecting Mumbai’s diverse fashion sensibilities, where style ranges from everyday comfort to trend-forward dressing, the store offers a versatile mix across womenswear, menswear and kidswear, making Italian style affordable to all. The assortment spans accessible everyday fashion from OVS alongside premium and contemporary collections, including PIOMBO, Les Copains, B.Angel, Altavia, and OVS Kids, designed to meet the style needs of a wide spectrum of consumers.
Sharing his thoughts on the Mumbai launch, Sundeep Chugh, Managing Director at OVS India, said: “The response to our New Delhi launch has been highly positive and has validated our belief that Indian consumers are seeking global fashion that delivers both style and value. Mumbai is a natural next step for us, given its strong fashion consciousness and retail maturity. Our vision is to establish OVS as a trusted destination for the entire family, offering a distinctive Italian aesthetic at democratic price points while maintaining high standards of quality and sustainability.”
Carmine Di Virgilio, Global Chief Retail Officer at OVS S.p.A, added: “India represents an important growth market in our international strategy and Mumbai is among the country’s most influential retail destinations. This opening will allow us to further strengthen our global footprint while introducing consumers to a retail experience that reflects our heritage, the contemporary Italian design philosophy and commitment to responsible fashion. We are very satisfied with our Delhi debut and the enthusiastic response from a wide range of customers, particularly younger generations. At the same time, we are actively evaluating additional expansion opportunities across the Indian market to support our long term growth strategy.”
Globally, OVS operates over 2,200 stores across multiple markets and has built a strong position in accessible, everyday fashion by combining Italian design excellence with quality materials and affordable pricing. Sustainability remains central to the brand’s approach, with responsible sourcing, recyclable materials, water-efficient processes and transparency.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
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