Fashion
US researchers replace harmful chemicals with eco-friendly cottonseed
The process for harvesting cotton and creating fabric for textiles includes collecting the wispy cellulose fibres of the cotton boll, removing the cotton seeds interspersed in the fibres, spinning the cotton into yarn, weaving the yarn into fabric and then finishing the fabric with a variety of chemicals that alter its physical properties — for example, making it softer or wrinkle resistant.
Researchers at North Carolina State University have developed a sustainable method using cottonseed oil to finish cotton fabrics—offering a safer alternative to harmful chemicals like formaldehyde and PFAS.
These methods aim to make fabrics smooth and durable without compromising environmental or human health.
Graduate student Taylor Kanipe presented the findings at the ACS Fall 2025 meeting.
Formaldehyde-based resins have traditionally been used as a fabric finishing agent. The sticky resin easily binds to cotton’s cellulose fibres, forming chemical bridges to make the long cellulose fibres resistant to wrinkling or stretching. While formaldehyde is cheap, easy to use and highly reactive, at high concentrations it is considered a Class 1 carcinogen. Formaldehyde can also cause skin and respiratory irritation.?Fluorine-
To eliminate the need for formaldehyde-based resins and PFAS in cotton fabric finishing, a group led by Richard Venditti, a professor of forest biomaterials, paper science and engineering at NC State, set out to create a green alternative by chemically altering seed oil from the cotton plant itself. Drawing on previous research at NC State, Kanipe, Venditti and colleagues took advantage of specific chemical properties in cottonseed oil to insert epoxy groups along the long carbon chains that make up the oil molecules. The epoxide group allows epoxidised cottonseed oil (ECSO) molecules to create strong chemical bonds with the cellulose fibres in cotton fabric and with each other, forming a polymer and making the fabric hydrophobic. The epoxy groups also create oil molecule bridges between the cellulose fibres, making the fabric resistant to wrinkling.
In addition to fabric finishing, ECSO could provide a use for the cottonseed oil harvested along with the cotton fibers, making it as inexpensive, easy to use and effective as formaldehyde resins.
“Epoxidised vegetable oils have a range of applications,” Kanipe explains. “While native cottonseed oil lacks the reactivity of formaldehyde-based resins, this simple epoxidation process produces a safer, more user-friendly alternative for applications like durable press finishes.”
The researchers weighed and chemically analyzed the ECSO-treated fabric using a type of infrared spectroscopy to ensure the ECSO molecules had successfully bonded to the fabric’s surface. To evaluate the finished fabric’s water repellent qualities, the researchers used a high-speed camera to measure the contact angle at which water droplets would interact with the cotton surface. The larger the angle between the water droplet and the surface of the fabric, the greater the water resistance. Untreated fabric showed no contact angle (in other words, the water was fully absorbed into the fabric), while ECSO-treated fabric showed a contact angle of 125 degrees, indicating a significant increase in water-repelling ability.
Future studies will measure additional performance factors in ECSO-treated cotton fabric, including tear strength, durability and wrinkle resistance. The team’s goal is to create a process of treating cotton with an ECSO water emulsion, a green process that does not require hazardous finishing substances.
“If we can achieve our goal of changing the properties of the cotton fabric — making it anti-wrinkle, anti-staining and water-resistant — using a water-based process, we’ll have a green process for putting a bio-based material onto cotton as a replacement for formaldehyde- and PFAS-based finishes,” says Venditti.
This research was funded by Cotton Incorporated and an Agriculture and Food Research Initiative from the US Department of Agriculture’s National Institute of Food and Agriculture.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RR)
Fashion
UK GDP expected to grow 1.4% in 2026: Goldman Sachs Research
They predict that the labour market will keep weakening, but also anticipate a boost to the economy from a significant cooling of inflation and further rate cuts from the Bank of England (BoE).
Goldman Sachs Research expects ‘another mixed year’ for the UK economy, which is expected to grow at 1.4 per cent in 2026—up from around 1 per cent in 2025.
It expects the unemployment rate to rise to 5.3 per cent by March, and then stabilising.
Consumption is expected to grow at 1.3 per cent in 2026 versus 0.7 per cent in 2025.
The fiscal position looks less vulnerable than some other European nations.
The UK labour market weakened significantly in 2025 as slow economic growth and the increase in national insurance contributions weighed on employment. A recent rise in layoffs points to ‘further labour market softening ahead’, according to Moberly and Stehn.
Goldman Sachs Research expects the unemployment rate to rise to 5.3 per cent by March. But as growth picks up towards potential, it sees the unemployment rate stabilising for the remainder of this year, the report says.
Given rising slack in the job market, lower headline inflation, and a smaller increase in the national living wage, the company’s economists expect wage growth to normalise this year. Private sector regular pay growth slowed to 3.8 per cent from around 6 per cent over the last 12 months, and the team forecasts further cooling to 3.1 per cent by the end of 2026.
Consumer spending in the UK is low, and the household savings rate is elevated. “Real disposable income growth is likely to remain weak in coming quarters given wage growth moderation, elevated mortgage rates, and a larger fiscal drag on household incomes,” Moberly and Stehn write.
The team’s models suggest that the savings rate will likely decline this year as interest rates fall and consumption catches up with recent increases in real inflation-adjusted incomes.
Consumption is expected to grow at 1.3 per cent in 2026 versus 0.7 per cent last year.
The team anticipates further progress on inflation in the coming months given unwinding base effects. Goldman Sachs Research projects headline inflation to decelerate to 2.1 per cent in the second quarter this year.
The fiscal trajectory, political risk, and efforts to boost economic growth are likely to be key areas of focus this year, according to the company.
“Our analysis suggests that the UK’s fiscal position looks less vulnerable than some other European countries, notably France,” Moberly and Stehn add.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Japan’s Fast Retailing names Francesco Risso as GU creative director
Alongside his appointment at GU, Risso, who helmed the UNIQLO and Marni collection in 2022, will develop a new collaboration line with UNIQLO, set to launch in 2026.
Further details on both initiatives will be announced at a later date.
Fast Retailing has appointed Francesco Risso as creative director of GU to strengthen the brand’s global presence.
Risso will lead GU’s creative direction, with his debut collection set for fall/winter 2026.
He will also develop a new collaboration line with Uniqlo launching in 2026, following his earlier Uniqlo and Marni project.
Italian-born designer Francesco Risso studied fashion in Florence, New York, and London. He spent a decade at Prada, developing a rigorous approach to narrative and craft while gaining extensive design experience. From 2016 to 2025 he served as Creative Director at Marni, shaping a boldly original vision for the house inspired by music, art, and cultural exploration. A passionate educator, Risso has held guest positions at the world’s top art and design schools.
Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)
Fashion
Saks bonds worth just 1 cent hand hedge funds a painful lesson
By
Bloomberg
Published
January 16, 2026
At first glance, Saks looked like exactly the kind of mess hedge funds love. Just months after the company borrowed $2.2 billion to finance its takeover of rival Neiman Marcus, the newly formed luxury retail powerhouse was already running short on cash. Creditors spooked by the pace of the slide rushed for the exits, offering the bonds for less than 40 cents on the dollar.
Bargain hunting hedge funds gleefully took the debt off their hands. This was, after all, a marquee name with valuable brands, prime real estate, big-name backers, and a business that executives said just needed a bit more time to steady itself. Firms including Pentwater Capital Management and Bracebridge Capital jumped in, chasing the promise of eye-popping returns.
Much is still to be determined in the wake of Saks’ bankruptcy this week, including any recovery for its creditors. Yet in the meantime, the episode is shaping up to be a painful lesson in the dangers of trying to catch a falling knife. The bonds that distressed-debt shops snapped up on the cheap are now being bid at less than 1 cent, according to broker runs. The hundreds of millions in extra financing they provided, which sits higher in the repayment pecking order, isn’t faring much better, changing hands around 10 cents.
Through Saks’ Chapter 11 filing, a clearer picture has emerged of a company that quickly veered off plan. Targets were missed, savings failed to materialise, cash drained at a rapid clip, and fixes meant to stop the bleeding never did. Bonds with roughly $486 million of face value held by Pentwater are now quoted at pennies on the dollar, as are about $257 million held by Bracebridge.
“This was a ticking time bomb, and the fuse was lit the day the merger was consummated,” said Mark Cohen, the former director of retail studies at Columbia Business School. “I’ve never seen anything go bad this fast; I don’t know that anyone has.”
A representative for Saks declined to comment beyond the company’s bankruptcy filing. Pentwater and Bracebridge declined to comment. Even after the staggering declines, Saks’ biggest creditors aren’t ready to throw in the towel.
In its bankruptcy filing, the company said it had secured roughly $1.75 billion in post-petition financing, including $1.5 billion from a group of senior secured bondholders betting a second act could yet salvage the retailer- and their own fortunes, possibly by converting battered debt positions into significant equity stakes.
Some will also collect fees for helping arrange the financing. What’s more, the structure of the post-bankruptcy financing Saks has lined up could allow certain debtholders to realise better returns on the company’s outstanding bonds than where they’re currently trading, some investors suggested.
Pentwater and Bracebridge are among those putting up more money, according to people with knowledge of the matter.
Whether it’s enough to turn around a company that burned through more cash than it generated last year remains to be seen. Perennially late payments have “damaged trust” with Saks’ suppliers, the retailer said in bankruptcy documents, and while new management is working to repair those relationships, some vendors may decide to take their business elsewhere.
The company is also facing stiff objections from unsecured creditors, including Amazon.com Inc., that are seeking to block access to the new financing package. The tech giant, which previously acquired a $475 million preferred equity stake in the luxury retailer, recently called its investment in Saks “presumptively worthless.” Other equity holders including Rhone Capital and Insight Partners also suffered significant losses, separate people familiar with the situation said.
Representatives for Amazon and Insight Partners didn’t respond to requests for comment. Rhone Capital declined to comment.
Some investors who opted not to participate in the latest debtor-in-possession financing were concerned that the rescue could echo other recent misfires. They pointed to First Brands Group, the bankrupt auto-parts supplier whose lenders put up more than $1 billion post bankruptcy, only to watch their super-senior bonds crater in value as the company burned through the cash and signalled it would need even more money.
With rescue financing, “you get a lot of structuring fees, an above-market interest rate, liens on the best collateral, an equity cushion below you, with the added upside that you’re in control as the restructuring process plays out,” said Rishi Goel, the global head of distressed debt at Aegon Asset Management.
“But it’s got to be structured correctly. The equity value below you has to be real,” Goel said. “If you’re misled, or the business is worth less than you thought or becomes worse than you thought, the value can dry up quickly.”
For now, Saks has said that stores under all its brands are open. A number of creditors say they are confident that new management, led by former Neiman Marcus Chief Executive Officer Geoffroy van Raemdonck, can steer the company through bankruptcy and, once it emerges, make its portfolio of luxury department stores profitable.
Not everyone is convinced. “The rationale for putting these two businesses together made no sense form the get go, and it’s hard to believe that these deep-pocketed masters of the universe fell for it,” Cohen said.
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