Fashion
Milan menswear Sunday: Domenico Orefice, Qasimi, Victor Hart, Santoni, Tod’s
Published
January 19, 2026
Sunday witnessed two striking runway debuts – Domenico Orefice and Victor Hart, a touching display by Qasimi and two very fine presentations by key Italian marques, Santoni and Tod’s.
Domenico Orefice: Italy has a new fashion cult
Domenico Orefice is a Neapolitan designer who hangs out in Tuscany but just staged his first runway show in Milan.
Even before the debut, Orefice had built a cool cult following and Italian fashionistas fascinated by the dark glory of his clothes.
Targeted at clubbers and night-owls, this autumn 2026 collection bristled with attitude. Opening this display with a rockstar blouson paired with a mega-high shaggy collar worn with leggings and piratical boots. The first of many bold jackets – furnished with funnel necks. His dark green flight jacket had such a huge collar when it splayed open it became like a cape.
For gals, he whipped up trompe l’oeil white cotton shirts featuring pearl necklaces and ties; or cotton piqué dresses shirts completed by shearling cummerbunds. Best of all, a rust-hued distressed leather jacket that looked like it had been unearthed somewhere, so bold was the attitude.
Judging from this, no wonder that Dover Street marketed its first big order of Domenico Orefice last year.
All presented in the nerve-center of the next generation in Italian fashion, the Carla Sozzani Foundation in north Milan, where the rhythmic art of her partner Kris Rus provided the perfect backdrop to Orefice’s edgy fashion art. Because that is what it is.
Victor Hart: Denim dandies
On a chilly Sunday, a select few gathered to enjoy the debut runway on the official calendar of Victor Hart.
It’s a novel, denim-driven brand founded by Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart, a Ghanaian designer who has made his home in Paris. A graduate of the city’s Haute Future Fashion Academy, Victor has a very definite point of view when it comes to denim.
His big idea was developing some bold denim jacquards coats and cloaks, several of them worn proudly by members like Carlo Capasa, the president of the Camera della Moda, Italian fashion’s governing body, which controls all runway seasons in Milan.
Staged by some 200 people in a redeveloped south Milan factory, with even more people crowding around the entrance outside, the show had considerable charm. Inside, a little bit amateur hour, as the show music stopped and started twice, before the first model finally appeared.
Using a great casting, Victor sent out all manner of denim treatments – mock muddy, streaky or blotched – in a collection of hipster, hybrid workwear. Oversized safari; ballooning carpenters’ pants; slit at the side warehouse coats; priestly soutanes.
All word by models, brilliantly made-up with vertical black stripes down their faces, or silver smears on jowls or necks. And topped with a mix of fedoras or electric blue woollen beanies with gold pins, worn at a jaunty tilt Simon Adebisi-style. Which is how Victor wore his when he took his bow to a very warm ovation.
Qasimi: Mode as memories
Sunday morning opened with the latest collection from Qasimi, a brand that marries Gulf inspirations with Western designs.
Though often evoking architectural, offset loops, spirals and overhanging fabric made the clothes fluid and full of motion. Many looks fluttered as the models marched by in this autumn/winter 2026 collection, staged in a former factory on Via Tortona in south central Milan.
Asymmetric layering was the key to the collection, where lapels varied in length, shoulders sprouted single scarves and sleeves often seemed to have a life of their own.
It could have been a mess, but in designer Hoor Al Qasimi’s capable hands, it became an evocative time capsule, where the clothes conjured up distant reminiscences. All staged underneath Lebanese artist Dala Nasser’s undulating natural dyed hangings.
The collection, Hoor explained, “reflects on how memory lives within clothing. Each garment becomes a vessel – carrying fragments of the past, acts of repair, and the quiet way we protect what we hold onto.”
A touching reference to this brand’s own particular history, seeing as its founder Khalid bin Sultan died so tragically early, aged 39. Though his gentle legacy lived on elegantly in this show today in Milan.
Santoni: Patina with rugged
Santoni has always made very classy shoes, notable for their unique Velatura patina. This season, it combined all that with a dash of more rugged chic.
Like its superb new Karl Ice mountain boot. Finished on top with mountain hooks and chunky laces; underneath with a remarkable Cervino sole, where an orange frame can be flipped from a smooth surface to a steel pointed version. Perfect for navigating icy conditions.
The house employed the same technique on the very smart Carlo Boot where loafer meets upper in a happy marriage.
Santoni’s sense of sheer excellence always impresses. As some remarkable work by artisans moulding a skin for scores of hours managed to develop a remarkable new lace-up whose upper has no side stitches. Unheard of before in footwear. Underneath their colleagues then hand nailed tiny brass nails on the perimeter of the sole. Think – footwear as an objet d’art.
The house even laid on a swish cocktail bar, where one could celebrate the best boots of the season: glistening brown, custom-made, bespoke crocodile lace-up gentlemanly hiker boots. Don’t expect much change out of $15,000 if you want to order a pair.
Tod’s: Expect the Winter Gommino to rule the coming Winter Olympics
Few boots seem more right for this season than the Winter Gommino, Tod’s chunky bootie, presented in multiple shades this Sunday.

They were the keynote to a swish presentation inside Villa Necchi, Milan’s most famous modernist villa, whose entrance featured a team of four artisans making pairs by hand in suede, antiqued leather or even cashmere.
“We wanted to underline the meticulous attention to detail needed to make a pair of Winter Gommino and highlight the excellence of the leather we used,” explained Tod’s patron and CEO, Diego Della Valle.
With excitement building daily in northern Italy for next month’s games, the Winter Gommino seems like an ideal companion for cold winter days in the mountains.

While in terms of ready-to-wear, the focus was on Tod’s Pashmy, a soft rare leather that evokes the famed fine wool of the Himalayas. Used with aplomb in the latest Coach Jacket or in a blazer with patch pockets dubbed, the Castello Jacket.
Not a bad look for some après ski.
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Fashion
Global energy growth slows to 1.3% in 2025: Report
The report highlighted that although overall energy demand growth slowed compared with 2024 and remained slightly below the previous decade’s average, electricity demand rose by around 3 per cent, driven by increased usage across buildings, industry, electric vehicles, and data centres.
Global energy demand growth slowed to 1.3 per cent in 2025, while electricity demand rose around 3 per cent, driven by EVs, industry, and data centres, according to IEA.
Solar PV led supply growth for the first time.
Oil demand grew modestly, and coal growth slowed.
CO2 emissions rose slightly.
Renewables and nuclear expansion highlighted an accelerating shift towards cleaner energy systems.
Solar photovoltaic (PV) emerged as the largest contributor to global energy supply growth for the first time, accounting for over 25 per cent of the increase. Natural gas followed with a 17 per cent share, while renewables and nuclear together met nearly 60 per cent of additional demand.
Global oil demand rose modestly by 0.7 per cent, reflecting the continued expansion of electric vehicles, with sales surpassing 20 million units in 2025. Coal demand growth slowed overall, with declines in China offset by increases in the United States due to high natural gas prices.
“Global energy demand continued to increase in 2025 against a complex economic and geopolitical backdrop, with one trend unmistakeable: the expanding electrification of economies,” said Fatih Birol, IEA executive director.
He added that electricity consumption was growing much faster than overall energy demand, with one energy source outpacing all others. He noted that solar PV accounted for over a quarter of global energy demand growth for the first time, followed by natural gas, and added that countries prioritising resilience and diversification would be better placed to manage volatility and ensure secure, affordable energy.
Regional trends varied significantly. Energy demand growth in the United States rose sharply, supported by industrial activity, data centre expansion, and colder weather, while China’s growth slowed to 1.7 per cent due to rising renewable adoption and improved efficiency.
Global energy-related CO2 emissions increased marginally by around 0.4 per cent. Emissions declined in China and remained flat in India, aided by renewable deployment and favourable weather conditions, while advanced economies recorded higher emissions growth due to colder winter conditions.
In the power sector, solar PV generation surged by a record 600 terawatt-hours, marking the largest annual increase for any electricity generation technology. Battery storage emerged as the fastest-growing segment, with around 110 gigawatts of new capacity added, while nuclear energy also saw renewed momentum with over 12 gigawatts of new reactors under construction.
The IEA noted that cumulative deployment of low-emissions technologies since 2019 now offsets fossil fuel consumption equivalent to the entire energy demand of Latin America, underscoring the accelerating transition towards cleaner energy systems.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
War-linked energy shock pushing inflation higher in Europe: IMF expert
In a blog post, Alfred Kammer, director of the IMF’s European department, said his organisation sees growth slowing down in the continent. Initial data point already to weaker private investment and consumption.
The energy shock that has hit Europe due to the Middle East conflict, though smaller than in 2022, is weighing on growth and pushing inflation higher, an IMF expert recently cautioned.
IMF sees growth slowing down in the continent.
Initial data point already to weaker private investment and consumption.
Central banks must remain laser focused on keeping inflation expectations anchored, he wrote.
The outlook for euro area growth is projected at just 1.1 per cent in 2026, for the European Union it is 1.3 per cent; and this forecast comes with a high degree of uncertainty.
In a more severe scenario as described in the World Economic Outlook—a persistent supply shock compounded by tightening financial conditions—the EU could come close to recession with inflation approaching 5 per cent. No European country is spared, Kammer observed.
Policymakers face intense pressure—to act fast, visibly and for all, which results in policies that have more long-term downsides than short-term benefits, he wrote.
Targeted support is much more effective. Europe’s response to this shock should be shaped by two imperatives, he suggested. First, robust macroeconomic policy that is fit for a world with unpredictable and frequent shocks, and second, resilience built without wasting fiscal resources or getting in the way of markets.
The first imperative involves getting monetary and fiscal policy right. Central banks must remain laser focused on keeping inflation expectations anchored, the IMF expert wrote.
In the euro area, where inflation is close to target and medium-term expectations are broadly anchored, the European Central Bank has some scope to wait and observe the shock evolve before acting. IMF now expects a cumulative 50 basis point increase in the policy rate by the end of this year, maintaining a broadly neutral monetary stance in light of higher near-term inflation expectations, Kammer noted.
A rise in core inflation or increasing medium-term expectations would warrant a more restrictive stance, he wrote.
“Europe must reform under pressure. The current shock is not an argument for delay. It is all the more reason to push forward the reform agenda,” Kammer added.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
India, US to resume BTA talks today
The text of the agreement was released on February 7.
India and the US will today resume talks on the first phase of their bilateral trade agreement in Washington, DC.
The three-day talks will discuss the situation that has evolved under the changed US tariff regime.
The two unilateral probes launched by the USTR against India may also be discussed at the meeting.
Darpan Jain, additional secretary in the department of commerce, is leading the Indian team.
Darpan Jain, additional secretary in the department of commerce, is leading the Indian team.
The three-day talks will discuss the situation that has evolved under the changed US tariff regime, according to Indian media reports.
Following the US Supreme Court decision against the sweeping tariffs imposed by President Donald Trump on several countries, the US administration imposed a 10-per cent tariff on all countries beginning February 24 for 150 days.
This led to a meeting between chief negotiators of both sides scheduled in February getting postponed to this month.
The two unilateral investigations launched by the US Trade Representative (USTR) against India may also be discussed at the meeting. India has rejected allegations made by the USTR in these two probes under its Section 301 of Trade Law and has called for termination of the probes as the initiation notice has failed to provide cogent rationale to substantiate the claims.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
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