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Nigerian designer pushes “Afro-lux” onto the global fashion scene

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Nigerian designer pushes “Afro-lux” onto the global fashion scene


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AFP

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August 28, 2025

Its striking architecture, framed by latticework inspired by traditional Yoruba textiles, makes Alara — west Africa’s first fashion and design “concept store” — an imposing landmark in Lagos, Nigeria’s bustling commercial capital.

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Lagos’s Alara concept store, champions her vision of “Afro-lux,” blending African heritage with global luxury. – Photo: Olympia de Maismont / AFP

Founded by Reni Folawiyo a decade ago, Alara embodies her vision of “Afro-lux,” a concept she defines as designs that balance tradition with modernity while positioning African fashion on the global stage.

Inside the store, upscale African labels share space with international brands, decorative art, and books — part of Folawiyo’s mission to place African creativity on equal footing with established global names. The building’s distinctive lattice is inspired by adire, a textile popular among the Yoruba people of southwest Nigeria.

“A lot of the beautiful things that people were making in different parts of Africa were not celebrated in the way that I thought they should be,” said the 60-year-old, explaining how rural craftsmanship often inspires Alara’s collections. “I felt very strongly in my belief that these objects and these people had value.”

Music stars become style ambassadors

West African design is experiencing a cultural moment, Folawiyo noted in an interview in Lagos, where she wore sunglasses with vivid pink lenses.

In May, Nigerian music stars Burna Boy, Tems, and Ayra Starr appeared at New York’s Met Gala, dressed by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.

But for Folawiyo, global recognition requires more than occasional runway appearances. “At the moment, the best way to platform designers outside Africa is to partner and collaborate with institutions that are of repute,” she said, citing her recent pop-up store and exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum and a collaboration with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Drawing from her Yoruba heritage — with its intricate textiles, bold colors, and elaborate ceremonies — Folawiyo also finds inspiration in Senegal’s rugged aesthetics and the Ivory Coast’s refined sophistication. “Alara is my own idea of what a celebration of Africa looks like,” she said.

Culture through cuisine

Behind the boutique lies NOK, a restaurant led by executive chef Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese culinary pioneer who has brought west African food to U.S. diners.

While still high-end, NOK offers more accessible prices than Alara’s fashion and design pieces — a delicate balance in a country marked by extremes: wealthy elites in the oil and tech sectors, a shrinking middle class strained by inflation, and millions of informal workers.

Amid Alara’s stark interior of black walls and white concrete, luxury items stand out as bold statements. A green dress by Nigerian label Eki Kere carries a price tag of 325,000 naira (around $210), while a sculptural table from Senegalese-Nigerian studio Salu Iwadi can fetch up to ten times more, underscoring the store’s blend of accessible fashion and high-end design.

Folawiyo herself comes from Lagos’s elite, as the wife of businessman Tunde Folawiyo and daughter of the late attorney general of Nigeria’s former Western Region, Lateef Adegbite.

But building her vision of African luxury was not easy. Convincing investors and partners to believe in “Afro-lux” proved challenging. “I was very committed to it and I had great belief in myself and my idea,” she said.

Now firmly established in Nigeria, Folawiyo also organizes international fashion showcases, including at Barbados’s Carifesta XV this month. But for her, the industry’s long-term success depends on “passing on knowledge to future generations.”

Copyright © 2025 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.



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Gap misses quarterly sales estimates on soft apparel demand, warns of tariff hit

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Gap misses quarterly sales estimates on soft apparel demand, warns of tariff hit


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Reuters

Published



August 29, 2025

Gap on Thursday reported comparable sales below Wall Street estimates as customers pulled back on discretionary spending, and it said U.S. tariffs would squeeze its margins in the current quarter.

Gap

Shares of the company were down about 2% in extended trading.

Inflationary prices and uncertainty arising from the Trump administration’s trade policy have curbed consumer spending, challenging CEO Richard Dickson’s turnaround efforts to revitalize its brands.

For the quarter ended August 2, Gap’s comparable sales rose 1%, missing estimates of 2.26% growth, while net sales rose slightly to $3.73 billion, almost in line with analysts’ estimates, according to data compiled by LSEG.

In the quarter, net sales in its cheaper Old Navy and namesake Gap brands ticked up 1% each. But sales fell in its pricier brands Banana Republic and Athleta. Sales in the athleisure brand continued their decline, falling 11%.

“Dickson has delivered on his promise to reinvigorate the Gap brand, though it remains to be seen if or how he can do the same for Athleta, where sales continue to decline,” said Sky Canaves, analyst at EMarketer.

Gap, like rivals including American Eagle, opens new tab and Levi Strauss, has pushed its denim line with a new viral “Better in Denim” campaign featuring the global girl group KATSEYE to bump up sales.

The campaign comes weeks after American Eagle’s “Great Jeans” denim campaign with actress Sydney Sweeney.

The company now expects annual operating margin to be between 6.7% and 7%, compared with 7.4% in 2024.

The forecast includes a tariff impact in the range of 100 to 110 basis points, which translates to a hit of $150 million to $175 million.
Canaves said the company’s profit margins could deteriorate as the year progresses.

“Tariff impacts, combined with a heavily promotional environment during the holidays, squeeze margins further.”

In May, Gap announced $250 million to $300 million in tariff-related costs and aimed to mitigate more than half of that amount while working to reduce exposure to countries struck with high tariffs on imports to the United States.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Urban Outfitters posts another record-breaking quarter on growth across all channels

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Urban Outfitters posts another record-breaking quarter on growth across all channels


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August 28, 2025

Urban Outfitters, Inc. on Wednesday posted record-breaking earnings and sales in the second quarter, thanks to solid sales growth across all brands including its struggling Urban Outfitters chain.

Urban Outfitters

The Philadelphia-based company said sales for the three months ended July 31 surged 11.3% to a record $1.50 billion, with total retail segment sales up 7.8%, and comparable retail segment sales lifting 5.6%. 

By brand, comparable sales increased 6.7% at Free People, 5.7% at Anthropologie and 4.2% at Urban Outfitters.

Elsewhere, subscription segment sales skyrocketed by 53.2%, primarily driven by a 48.1% increase in average active subscribers in the current quarter. Wholesale segment sales jumped 18.1%, driven by a 19.5% increase in Free People wholesale sales, thanks to an increase in sales to specialty customers.

As a result of the sales growth, the U.S. company posted a record net income of $143.9 million and earnings per diluted share of $1.58 for the three months ended July 31.

“We are proud to announce record revenues, profits, and earnings per share for the quarter,” said Richard Hayne, chief executive officer, Urban Outfitters, Inc.

“Our success was broad-based, with all five brands achieving positive comparable sales across all geographies. We saw exceptional performance across all of our segments – retail, subscription, and wholesale – and believe these results reflect the strength of our brands, the effectiveness of our strategy, and the talent of our teams. We are confident in our continued momentum.”

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Ssense files for bankruptcy protection

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Ssense files for bankruptcy protection


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August 28, 2025

Ssense is reportedly filing for bankruptcy protection following a move by creditors to initiate the sale of the Canadian luxury retailer, as per a letter sent to employees on Thursday.

Ssense

In an email sent to staff, the Montreal-based company said the protection move follows the filing of an application to sell the company by its main creditor, without consent from the retailer, under the Companies’ Creditors Arrangement Act (CCAA), according to a B0F report.

Chief executive Rami Atallah explained that Ssense will in response file its own CCAA application within 24 hours “to protect the company, keep control of our assets and operations, and fight for the future of the company,” according to the memo.

“Recently, we have worked closely with financial and legal advisors to develop our own restructuring plan to stabilize the business and rebuild it for the future,” said Atallah, as cited by BoF.

“The court will decide which path we follow, likely within the next week. Until then, our focus remains clear: protect value, stabilize the business, and set up a restructuring plan to secure our future.”

It is unknown which creditor pulled the sale trigger.

The retailer’s CEO went on to explain the headwinds facing his company following the Trump administration’s recent trade policies, which have imposed 25 percent tariffs on goods imported from Canada.

Ssense also cited the closure of the “de minimus” exemption, which allowed packages worth less than $800 to enter the U.S. duty free as a hit operationally for the company.

The bankruptcy protection news follows layoffs at Ssense earlier this year, including 100 positions in May, as the firm tries to lower overheads amid the luxury slowdown affecting demand for high-price goods, especially more younger, aspirational luxury shoppers — Ssense’s target market.

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