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Nigerian designer pushes “Afro-lux” onto the global fashion scene

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Nigerian designer pushes “Afro-lux” onto the global fashion scene


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August 28, 2025

Its striking architecture, framed by latticework inspired by traditional Yoruba textiles, makes Alara — west Africa’s first fashion and design “concept store” — an imposing landmark in Lagos, Nigeria’s bustling commercial capital.

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Lagos’s Alara concept store, champions her vision of “Afro-lux,” blending African heritage with global luxury. – Photo: Olympia de Maismont / AFP

Founded by Reni Folawiyo a decade ago, Alara embodies her vision of “Afro-lux,” a concept she defines as designs that balance tradition with modernity while positioning African fashion on the global stage.

Inside the store, upscale African labels share space with international brands, decorative art, and books — part of Folawiyo’s mission to place African creativity on equal footing with established global names. The building’s distinctive lattice is inspired by adire, a textile popular among the Yoruba people of southwest Nigeria.

“A lot of the beautiful things that people were making in different parts of Africa were not celebrated in the way that I thought they should be,” said the 60-year-old, explaining how rural craftsmanship often inspires Alara’s collections. “I felt very strongly in my belief that these objects and these people had value.”

Music stars become style ambassadors

West African design is experiencing a cultural moment, Folawiyo noted in an interview in Lagos, where she wore sunglasses with vivid pink lenses.

In May, Nigerian music stars Burna Boy, Tems, and Ayra Starr appeared at New York’s Met Gala, dressed by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.

But for Folawiyo, global recognition requires more than occasional runway appearances. “At the moment, the best way to platform designers outside Africa is to partner and collaborate with institutions that are of repute,” she said, citing her recent pop-up store and exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum and a collaboration with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Drawing from her Yoruba heritage — with its intricate textiles, bold colors, and elaborate ceremonies — Folawiyo also finds inspiration in Senegal’s rugged aesthetics and the Ivory Coast’s refined sophistication. “Alara is my own idea of what a celebration of Africa looks like,” she said.

Culture through cuisine

Behind the boutique lies NOK, a restaurant led by executive chef Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese culinary pioneer who has brought west African food to U.S. diners.

While still high-end, NOK offers more accessible prices than Alara’s fashion and design pieces — a delicate balance in a country marked by extremes: wealthy elites in the oil and tech sectors, a shrinking middle class strained by inflation, and millions of informal workers.

Amid Alara’s stark interior of black walls and white concrete, luxury items stand out as bold statements. A green dress by Nigerian label Eki Kere carries a price tag of 325,000 naira (around $210), while a sculptural table from Senegalese-Nigerian studio Salu Iwadi can fetch up to ten times more, underscoring the store’s blend of accessible fashion and high-end design.

Folawiyo herself comes from Lagos’s elite, as the wife of businessman Tunde Folawiyo and daughter of the late attorney general of Nigeria’s former Western Region, Lateef Adegbite.

But building her vision of African luxury was not easy. Convincing investors and partners to believe in “Afro-lux” proved challenging. “I was very committed to it and I had great belief in myself and my idea,” she said.

Now firmly established in Nigeria, Folawiyo also organizes international fashion showcases, including at Barbados’s Carifesta XV this month. But for her, the industry’s long-term success depends on “passing on knowledge to future generations.”

Copyright © 2025 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.



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Ssense files for bankruptcy protection

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Ssense files for bankruptcy protection


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August 28, 2025

Ssense is reportedly filing for bankruptcy protection following a move by creditors to initiate the sale of the Canadian luxury retailer, as per a letter sent to employees on Thursday.

Ssense

In an email sent to staff, the Montreal-based company said the protection move follows the filing of an application to sell the company by its main creditor, without consent from the retailer, under the Companies’ Creditors Arrangement Act (CCAA), according to a B0F report.

Chief executive Rami Atallah explained that Ssense will in response file its own CCAA application within 24 hours “to protect the company, keep control of our assets and operations, and fight for the future of the company,” according to the memo.

“Recently, we have worked closely with financial and legal advisors to develop our own restructuring plan to stabilize the business and rebuild it for the future,” said Atallah, as cited by BoF.

“The court will decide which path we follow, likely within the next week. Until then, our focus remains clear: protect value, stabilize the business, and set up a restructuring plan to secure our future.”

It is unknown which creditor pulled the sale trigger.

The retailer’s CEO went on to explain the headwinds facing his company following the Trump administration’s recent trade policies, which have imposed 25 percent tariffs on goods imported from Canada.

Ssense also cited the closure of the “de minimus” exemption, which allowed packages worth less than $800 to enter the U.S. duty free as a hit operationally for the company.

The bankruptcy protection news follows layoffs at Ssense earlier this year, including 100 positions in May, as the firm tries to lower overheads amid the luxury slowdown affecting demand for high-price goods, especially more younger, aspirational luxury shoppers — Ssense’s target market.

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Defer LDC graduation by 3-5 years, demand Bangladesh trade bodies

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Defer LDC graduation by 3-5 years, demand Bangladesh trade bodies



Top business and trade organisations in Bangladesh have called for delaying the country’s scheduled graduation from the least developed country (LDC) status in November 2026 by five to six years.

In a press conference organised yesterday by the International Chamber of Commerce (ICC) Bangladesh and 15 other trade bodies, ICC Bangladesh president Mahbubur Rahman said: “Our entrepreneurs and business chambers strongly support graduation. However, we stress the need for a three- to five-year extension.”

Top trade bodies in Bangladesh have called for delaying the country’s scheduled graduation from the LDC status by five to six years.
Though Bangladesh has fulfilled all three UN criteria, the graduation will bring with it new responsibilities and risks, and therefore, careful preparation is needed to ensure the transition leads to lasting success, ICC Bangladesh president Mahbubur Rahman said.

Though Bangladesh has fulfilled all three UN criteria—gross national income, human assets index and economic vulnerability index—in two consecutive reviews, such a graduation will bring with it new responsibilities and risks, and therefore, careful preparation is needed to ensure the transition leads to lasting success, Rahman said.

Risks include the possible loss of duty-free market access in key export destinations where tariffs of up to 12 per cent could be imposed, and that may lead to a 6-14 per cent drop in exports, he said.

“The press conference expressed optimism that the extended period would provide greater scope for export diversification, development of skilled manpower in automation and artificial intelligence (AI), and building capacity to face future challenges, thereby ensuring sustainable competitiveness in the global market,” the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) posted on Facebook.

The business leaders also raised concerns over the end of special and differential treatment by the World Trade Organization (WTO). “This will make patent rules stricter for the pharmaceutical sector and increase compliance costs,” Rahman cautioned.

Rahman noted that several countries had deferred their LDC graduation in the last.

The proposed five- to six-year deferment would offer Bangladesh the time to secure trade deals with several countries and economic blocs, he added.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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Jo Whitfield is new BRC chair, first woman to take the role

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Jo Whitfield is new BRC chair, first woman to take the role


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August 28, 2025

The British Retail Consortium is getting a female chair for the very first time with former Matalan and Co-op exec Jo Whitfield to take over from Andy Higginson in early October.

Jo Whitfield

Whitfield has a quarter of a century of experience in retail and is currently a non-executive and audit chair at Asda, a non-executive and chair of the ethics committee at Factory International, and host of the Manchester International Festival.  

She also played a leading industry role campaigning alongside the BRC to achieve better safety recognition and a change to the law to protect retail shopworkers.

She’ll be joined by Eve Williams, as a new non-executive director on the BRC board. Again, she’s hugely experienced and is VP and general manager of eBay UK as well as having held executive marketing and customer roles in both eBay and at ASOS, before being appointed to her current role.

Whitfield said: “I’m honoured to be joining the BRC as its first female Chair, and to be supporting Helen and her team at such a pivotal time. Retail is an incredibly valuable industry, employing over 3 million people who support their families through their work. It’s also uniquely inclusive and many of us have built our careers from the shop floor or from working-class backgrounds, rising into leadership roles and enjoying fulfilling careers.

“Retailers are at the heart of communities, and we’re acutely aware of the many government policies currently under consideration that could either support or hinder our industry. This is a critical moment for us all and now more than ever, we need a strong, united voice. I look forward to working closely with Helen and the team to ensure the interests of our industry are championed and protected.”

And Helen Dickinson, BRC CEO, added: “Jo and Eve join the board as we deal with multiple public policy headwinds and more to do on big issues like climate change, inclusion, and creating the right environment for growth and investment. I know how passionate they both are on these areas and particularly on people so it’s great to welcome two more women to our board and our first female chair. 

“It has been a pleasure working with Andy and I would like to thank him for his pragmatic, down-to-earth advice, leadership and support over the past two-and-a-half years. We are a stronger organisation for it.”

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