Fashion
Chanel: Matthieu Blazy debuts with panache in Grand Palais
Published
October 6, 2025
So, finally, the big one – fashion’s most anticipated debut at the richest fashion house in history – Matthieu Blazy’s opening show for Chanel, a bold, gutsy, ingenious, often beautiful and oddly risqué collection that was an undoubted hit.
The omens felt right as soon as one entered the Grand Palais, where Blazy had built a truly magnificent set. Like the great planets in the solar system; giant fabric balls with interior illumination, the sun 15-meters in diameter. The catwalk a lacquered lunar landscape suggesting molten rock and lava.
So epic was the staging, the 2,800 guests were encouraged to come an hour early to admire the space. The new universe of Chanel, before which the show began, unveiling a beguiling and intriguing collection.
Matthieu opened with suits, of course, but pants suits in gray flannel, in a quirky surprise, culled from pants that Coco borrowed from her great love, Boy Capel. Cut with mannish pants and officers’ mess jackets, they set the scene for a brave, often experimental display by Blazy.
He sent out dozens of Chanel suits or split suits. Many with a new wrap skirt made with pockets and cut at the knee and left frayed generally. Made in both classic and unexpected materials: lighter semi-sheer bouclé wool, airy plaids, windowpane checks or stiff denim, while the famed four-pocket jackets were all finished with filigrees of gold or contrasting trim.
Surprisingly, he showed multiple skirts slung so low, underwear peaked up two inches. It seems unlikely that many of the well-heeled VICs in the audience will actually wear that idea, but its chutzpah was very appealing.
Blazy played artfully with many codes, like conceptual double-sized camellia brooches or Coco’s love of pearls, though used in densely woven necklaces. And referenced Mademoiselle’s obsession with wheat by embroidering a golden sheaf into an organza top.
Even the little black dress, which Coco is credited with inventing, got a smart makeover – either finished with golden strings or ruched radically with side knots.
For evening, Matthieu went into overdrive: dense fabric flowers and petals used in flamenco skirts, even if some of which flapped alarmingly. While the lacquered surface alarmed some models, with one taking a shoe off right in front of a movie star posse in the front row – Tilda Swinton, Pedro Almodovar, Penelope Cruz, chatting animatedly beside a silent Kendall Jenner.
All presented to a massive mash-up of music created jointly by Chanel’s long-time DJ Michel Gaubert and Belgian sound architect Le Motel. It included Isao Tomita’s electronic track “Venus, the Bringer of Peace”, The Corrs plaintiff hit “Runway” and spoken snippets from TV series “Dawson’s Creek”.
At the finale, the collection won Blazy a prolonged standing ovation, ignited when the Ethiopian-Canadian Awar Odhiang in the final look began clapping and beseeching the audience to rise.
“Chanel is about love. The birth of modernity in fashion comes from a love story. This is what I find most beautiful. It has no time or space; this is an idea of freedom. The freedom worn and won by Gabrielle Chanel,” said Blazy.
Ironically, in a set that imitated the vacuum of outer space, the collection felt like a huge blast of fresh air into the lungs of the house of Chanel.
All told, very much a home-run hit show and pathbreaking collection that will be highly influential. And, one has to say, the most successful of the 15 designer debuts at important fashion houses in this unique series of fashion week.
One needs to recall, that the Franco-Belgian designer was an under-the-radar candidate for the biggest creative job in fashion. But after garnering rave reviews consistently in a three-year tenure at Italian luxury label Bottega Veneta, he nabbed the position. It is a major step-up in size. From a mid-sized provincial Italian house to Chanel — the world’s largest luxury fashion label with annual sales of around $20 billion.
Chanel’s uber-discreet family owners, Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, clearly would like another long low-term career for Blazy at the house.
He is only the fourth creative director in the brand’s storied history. Coco Chanel founded the brand in 1910 and led it until 1973 when she died in the Ritz; Karl Lagerfeld who ruled supreme from 1983 until his death in 2019. Virginie Viard – Karl’s key assistant, by contrast, only lasted five years until June 2024.
In an uber busy week, on the day of the show, the brand also announced two new ambassadors: Oscar winner Nicole Kidman and rising star Ayo Edebiri, the award-winning American actor, director, and screenwriter, known for her standout roles in hit series “The Bear”.
Kidman wore a white oversized shirt – Boy Capel-style – and duck-egg blue pants to the show, attending it with her daughters.
“From the unforgettable Baz Luhrmann film to her countless red carpet looks, Nicole has always been part of the history of the house. Free and ever-changing, she is for me the embodiment of the Chanel woman,” said Blazy.
Edebiri recently wore Blazy creations from Chanel at the Venice Film Festival and the New York Film Festival.
“Ayo is all strength, but at the same time, she is vulnerable enough to always put herself out there. She writes, she acts, she directs… Nothing can stop her,” insisted Blazy.
While tourists in Paris could not help noticing this week’s new giant billboard in front of the Paris Opera: a beautiful Chanel high jewelry necklace from its No. 5 collection.
Suddenly, the Chanel dream seems very alive and well again.
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Fashion
Italy’s OVS’ FY25 sales rise 7% to $2.06 bn; beats market
The company’s net sales rose 7 per cent year on year (YoY) to €1,745.9 million (~$2.06 billion) in FY25 ended January 31, 2026. Excluding Goldenpoint, sales growth stood at 2.9 per cent, significantly outperforming the reference market, which expanded by just 0.3 per cent during the period. Directly operated stores generated €1,431.3 million in revenue, up 8.2 per cent YoY, while franchising and B2B channels contributed €314.7 million.
OVS has posted record FY25 sales of €1,745.9 million (~$2.06 billion), up 7 per cent YoY, driven by like-for-like growth and Goldenpoint consolidation.
Adjusted gross margin rose 8.8 per cent, while net profit increased 14.8 per cent.
Key brands delivered solid EBITDA gains.
Womenswear and beauty led growth, with early FY26 performance remaining strong on robust collection demand.
The group delivered strong improvements across key financial metrics. Adjusted gross margin rose to €1,033 million, up 8.8 per cent YoY, with margin expanding to 59.2 per cent. Adjusted net profit was €89.4 million, an increase of 14.8 per cent YoY.
At the brand level, OVS reported EBITDA of €172.6 million, up €9.8 million YoY, while Upim recorded €44.0 million, compared with €40.1 million in 2024. Stefanel also delivered improved performance, with EBITDA rising by around €4 million. Goldenpoint contributed €3.9 million to EBITDA during its seven-month consolidation period, OVS said in a press release.
“2025 was a year of excellent results, with growth across all the main banners and brands. This performance confirms the validity of a positioning based on quality, stylistic research, and sustainability, which have elevated the perceived value of the brands, effectively intercepting a growing demand for quality products at affordable prices,” said Stefano Beraldo, CEO of OVS.
He added that the group continued to strengthen its brand portfolio, including the launch of Les Copains and extensions of the PIOMBO line, alongside the expansion of Altavia, B Angel, and Utopja. Womenswear and beauty remained standout categories, with the latter supported by Shaka stand-alone stores, now operating 10 locations.
“Another fundamental pillar remains the constant enhancement of the stores, in a context where offline is regaining centrality in customer preferences,” added Beraldo, highlighting investments in store design and customer experience.
Goldenpoint delivered sales growth of around 10 per cent during its initial consolidation phase, supported by product updates and store modernisation, along with purchasing synergies that improved margins.
“The internationalisation strategy of OVS is accelerating, supported by a solid financial position and the success of the womenswear offering. Expansion into the most promising markets is planned for 2026,” Beraldo said.
The 2026 financial year is showing significant growth compared to 2025 thanks to the very positive reception of the new collections, added the release.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
UNCTAD, Singapore’s MPA launch global maritime transport partnership
As pressure grows to decarbonise and modernise, countries face a dual challenge: reducing emissions while maintaining efficiency and competitiveness.
UNCTAD and the Maritime and Port Authority of Singapore have launched a partnership to accelerate the transition towards more sustainable, resilient and inclusive global maritime transport.
Both sides will promote cleaner fuels and digital technologies across ports and shipping networks.
A key pillar is support, including training, advisory services and institutional strengthening, for developing nations.
Singapore’s role as one of the world’s most connected and efficient ports positions it as a key partner in testing and scaling innovations, said UNCTAD, which complements this with global reach, policy expertise and on-the-ground support to developing countries.
Under the agreement, the partners will promote cleaner fuels and digital technologies across ports and shipping networks.
Efforts will focus on solutions that can be adapted to different national contexts, alongside knowledge-sharing in sustainable finance, digital innovation and workforce development—key enablers of a successful transition.
“This partnership brings together Singapore’s operational excellence and UNCTAD’s global development expertise,” said Pedro Manuel Moreno, acting secretary general of UNCTAD, in a release.
“It will help accelerate a maritime transition that is not only greener and more efficient, but also resilient and inclusive—while contributing to global discussions at the UN Global Supply Chain Forum 2026,” he added.
A central pillar of the initiative is support, including training, advisory services and institutional strengthening, for developing countries.
Building on UNCTAD’s long-standing work with port communities, the partnership will help improve performance, strengthen connectivity and enhance preparedness for disruptions.
The initiative will also feed into preparations for the UN Global Supply Chain Forum taking place in late 2026, where global stakeholders will address the future of trade logistics and resilience.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Canada forms new advisory committee to strengthen US trade relations
The committee will serve as a forum for expert advice on trade, investment, labour and economic strategy, and will be chaired by Dominic LeBlanc, minister responsible for Canada-US Trade, Intergovernmental Affairs, Internal Trade and One Canadian Economy. It includes leaders from across key sectors of the Canadian economy and will hold its first meeting on April 27, 2026.
Canada has formed a new advisory committee to guide its economic strategy with the United States ahead of the Canada-United States-Mexico Agreement (CUSMA) review.
With 85 per cent of trade remaining tariff-free, the move aims to deepen collaboration, safeguard market access and better position Canada for upcoming negotiations and evolving trade dynamics.
Carney announced members including Jean Simard, Candace Laing, Darryl White, Lisa Raitt, Tracy Robinson, Flavio Volpe, Ron Bedard, Ken Seitz, Dennis Darby, Lana Payne, Francois Poirier, Emile Cordeau, Luc Theriault, Magali Picard, Jonathan Price, Susan Yurkovich, Michael Harvey, Tabatha Bull, Cameron Bailey, Valerie Beaudoin, Erin O’Toole, Jean Charest, P.J. Akeeagok and Ralph Goodale.
The initiative replaces the former Council on Canada-US relations and aims to strengthen engagement with business and labour stakeholders while positioning Canada for future negotiations.
“Canada is approaching its economic relationship with the US with focus, discipline and unity. This new Advisory Committee ensures that government is drawing on the best advice and the broadest perspectives to advance Canada’s economic interests. Our goal is a strong economic partnership with the US that creates greater certainty, security and prosperity for all,” Carney said.
“Canada is strongest when governments, workers, businesses and industry leaders pull in the same direction. This Advisory Committee will help us stay closely connected to key sector perspectives, support effective outreach and strengthen Canada’s position as we establish a new economic and security relationship with the US,” LeBlanc added.
Canada-US trade remains a cornerstone of North America’s economy. In 2024, both countries exchanged nearly $3.6 billion in goods and services daily. Together with Mexico, the three countries represent a market of 517 million consumers with a combined GDP of $48.8 trillion. Since CUSMA came into force on July 1, 2020, bilateral trade has increased by more than 27 per cent, or $196 billion.
CUSMA, which is in force until 2036, will undergo a mandatory joint review on July 1, 2026. Member countries will decide by consensus on potential updates or an extension for another 16 years. If no agreement is reached, annual reviews will continue until consensus is achieved or the agreement expires.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)
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