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Debenhams Group results show EBITDA up, GMV down, explores sale of underperforming PLT

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Debenhams Group results show EBITDA up, GMV down, explores sale of underperforming PLT


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August 26, 2025

Debenhams Group (which used to be Boohoo Group) issued its annual results for the year to the end of February on Tuesday afternoon and said adjusted EBITDA rose 3% to £41.6 million.

The new PrettyLittleThing

There were plenty of negative figures in the report too, but some things are clear – this is still a huge operation selling a massive amount of fashion and other products. And certain parts of the business are performing much better than others. The Debenhams brand in particular is a standout performer. But PrettyLittleThing (PLT), which was recently relaunched, clearly isn’t. It had a negative impact on the results and the company is exploring its sale.

The shares spiked upwards by about 3% on the news, which is understandable given the negative impact PLT has had on the group’s performance. 

CEO Dan Finely said: “We have a clear plan to transform the business and a route map to generating sustainable profit growth. We are focused on delivering on the huge opportunity ahead for the Debenhams brand. Work is progressing to reposition and right-size the Youth Brands.

“This will be a multi-year turnaround. As part of our ongoing business review, we are exploring a potential sale of PLT. We are also assessing long-term options for our US and Burnley distribution sites to enhance efficiency and ensure alignment with our stock-lite strategy.”

He added that “all our brands are now trading profitably in terms of adjusted EBITDA”.  

The numbers

Big news indeed, although at this stage it’s not certain that PLT will be sold. So let’s look at the figures for the group with and without PLT being included. In what was clearly a year of transition as the company changed its leadership and dived deeper into a marketplace model, GMV pre-returns and excluding PLT fell 2% to just under £1.607 billion and including PLT GMV fell 10% to almost £2.322 billion.

The Youth Brands’ GMV fell 19% to £795.6 million without PLT and fell an even wider 22% to £1.51 billion with PLT included. Meanwhile Karen Millen fell 3% to £157.1 million. But the Debenhams brand was up an impressive 34% at £654 million.

GMV for the company post-returns was up 1% with PLT excluded at just over £1.137 billion but was down 8% with it included at £1.639 billion.

Total revenue excluding PLT fell 12% to £790.3 million and with it included fell 17% to just under £1.218 billion.

The gross margin excluding PLT fell to 52.6% from 53.1% and including it fell to 50.7% from 51.8%.

That’s a lot of numbers to digest but it’s very clear the PLT is an issue. 

Karen Millen

Profit… and loss

Profit-wise, the company highlighted the adjusted EBITDA figure mentioned at the start, but some of the other figures in the report were less impressive with adjusted EBIT a loss of £21 million. That said, this was an improvement on the £30.7 million loss on that basis a year earlier. The adjusted loss after tax also narrowed by 12% to £43.4 million.

Dan Finley, who took the helm last November, said that when he stepped up from running the Debenhams brand, “the board recognised the need for change following a long period of sustained and unacceptable underperformance. My immediate focus has been on stabilising the business and positioning it to take advantage of the significant opportunities ahead”.

Of that happily positive adjusted EBITDA figure, he added: “On appointment, [such an achievement] seemed improbable, but we quickly came up with a plan, confirmed our position with the market and executed it. This has only been possible due to the aggressive actions subsequently taken, including £50 million of annualised headcount savings.”

Debenhams brand leading the way

Finley called out “the standout performance of the Debenhams brand” as the year’s highlight and the brand’s adjusted EBITDA of £25 million (up £14 million year on year). 

And he explained that the Debenhams “capital-lite, stock-lite, cost-lite, cash-generative marketplace model sits at the heart of our new strategy. The multi-year turnaround of Debenhams is the blueprint for the turnaround of the wider group”.

Other achievements include the group having “significantly reduced the capital intensity of the business. We have faced into legacy stock issues and reduced our stock holding by more than 50%. We have stopped unnecessary capital expenditure and reduced capex by more than 50%. Further reductions will be delivered this financial year”.

Improvements in its debt position have also been key and Finley explained that while “the business has been through a very challenging period which is reflected in these results. I want to assure shareholders that the business is taking the necessary actions, quickly and decisively, to address the challenges that we face. No stone will be left unturned”.

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US Republican senator calls for DOJ and Homeland Security to investigate Shein, Temu for counterfeiting

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US Republican senator calls for DOJ and Homeland Security to investigate Shein, Temu for counterfeiting


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Reuters

Published



December 1, 2025

U.S. Republican Senator Tom Cotton of Arkansas sent a letter to Attorney General Pam Bondi on Monday calling for the U.S. departments of Justice and Homeland Security to investigate online retailers Shein and Temu, which ship most of their merchandise from China, for wide-scale intellectual property theft and counterfeiting.

Reuters

The letter, which was seen by Reuters, adds to the increased scrutiny of Shein and Temu, which both sell $20 shirts and $10 accessories, following the end of a U.S. trade exemption that helped both companies gain popularity in the region. Shein is privately held and Temu is owned by PDD Holdings.

Shein and Temu did not immediately comment on Cotton’s letter.
The European Commission said in July that Temu was breaking EU rules by not doing enough to prevent the sale of counterfeit goods on its platform. The company said at the time that it would fully cooperate with the Commission.

Shein has previously said that it requires its suppliers to certify that their products do not infringe on a brand’s intellectual property and that they are not counterfeit. The company has a team that ensures its sellers comply with the policy and takes swift action if they are not in compliance, a spokesperson previously said.

The ending of the, which allowed packages shipped directly to shoppers valued at under $800 to enter the U.S. duty-free, has “forced Shein and Temu to change their business model,” Cotton said in the letter.

“These companies now stock massive inventories in U.S. warehouses and distribution centers. Their goods are no longer slipping through ports,” Cotton said. “They are sitting on American soil under U.S. jurisdiction.”

Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton said on Monday he is investigating whether Shein violated state law related to unethical labor practices and the sale of unsafe consumer products. France last week asked a Paris judge to suspend Shein in the country for three months over sales of childlike sex dolls and banned weapons.
 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Modella makes another acquisition, this time it’s the Wynsors footwear chain

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Modella makes another acquisition, this time it’s the Wynsors footwear chain


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December 1, 2025

Modella Capital is fast becoming one of the most acquisitive businesses on the UK high street and the latest retailer to join its portfolio is footwear chain Wynsors World of Shoes.

Wynsors

The company hadn’t made a formal announcement as we published but a spate of Companies House announcements came through about individuals ceasing to be “a person with significant control” of Wynsors’ parent company or becoming newly appointed directors. Yet the biggest clue that came early evening on Monday was the one that said “Appointment of Modella Capital Directors Limited as a director on 29 November 2025”.

There’s no hint of how much it might have paid for the business.

The story had originally been broken by Sky News on Monday morning, which had said the investment firm was targeting a takeover of the privately owned footwear retailer and was in “advanced talks”.

Wynsors trades from around 50 standalone shops across the north of England and Sky had said Modella was “the likeliest buyer” of the business, with expectations of a deal before the end of the year. Monday’s later developments tore that timeline up completely.

Modella was recently in the news as the buyer of Claire’s UK business. It also recently bought the non-travel locations of WH Smith (now renamed TG Jones) and owns Hobbycraft and The Original Factory Shop too. It had earlier hoped to add Poundland to its portfolio but missed out on that one.

Wynsors had been looking to sell for around two months and accountancy firm RSM had been hired explore interest from prospective bidders, Sky News said.

The chain trades from around 50 standalone stores and 40 concessions. It sells brands including Adidas, Skechers, Hush Puppies, Clarks, Nike, Kickers and more. And although its sells footwear for women, men and children, it focuses particularly on school shoes.

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Eastpak appoints Marie Gras as vice president, global brand

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Eastpak appoints Marie Gras as vice president, global brand


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December 1, 2025

A running specialist is all set to drive growth in Eastpak‘s bags business. VF Corp’s luggage brand, a major player in the backpack market in France and across Europe, has appointed a new global brand vice president. Marie Gras, who has served as vice president for running at the French sporting-goods giant Decathlon for nearly two and a half years, is leaving Hauts-de-France to join VF Corp’s Antwerp offices. From Belgium, the group operates Eastpak as well as Kipling (led by Domitille Parent, who previously headed Eastpak).

Marie Gras – DR

For Marie Gras, a first challenge looms with last weekend’s reopening of an Eastpak flagship on London’s Carnaby Street. The store is located at 35 Carnaby Street and spans two floors. The brand opened its first-ever store on the London thoroughfare in 2008, in a 170-square-metre space.

Marie Gras helped implement Decathlon’s recent running strategy, in one of the world’s fastest-growing sports. Through its dedicated running brand, Kiprun, Decathlon has launched a running app and, notably, formed agreements with partners in new territories to develop Kiprun spaces beyond its own Decathlon stores. Previously, the executive spent almost eight years at Adidas, most recently overseeing the brand’s activities and events in Paris, one of the key cities in the brand’s global visibility strategy.

Eastpak's London boutique reopened last weekend at 35 Carnaby Street
Eastpak’s London boutique reopened last weekend at 35 Carnaby Street – Eastpak

Eastpak is one of the luggage brands owned by the VF Corp group, which is currently streamlining its operations. The group also owns Kipling, to which it has given fresh momentum in recent months, as well as JanSport, focused on the US market. Eastpak, which benefits from numerous collaborations with designers and mass-market licences, such as Diesel and Gremlins, was founded in 1952 under the name Eastern Canvas Products. In France and Western Europe, it holds a key position among lower- and upper-secondary students. However, across the functional backpack category as a whole (excluding hiking backpacks), the French brand Cabaïa has gained market share in recent years and now claims category leadership in France.

For Eastpak, the challenges are therefore to scale up its entire bags and luggage range and to strengthen its competitiveness against emerging European players in various markets, such as Rains, Ucon Acrobatics, Qwstion, Kapten & Son, Tucano, Ferrino, Ecoalf, Lefrik, and Sandqvist.

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