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EU enforces new Waste Framework Directive to boost circular economy

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EU enforces new Waste Framework Directive to boost circular economy



The European Union’s (EU) targeted revision of the Waste Framework Directive officially entered into force yesterday, introducing common rules for Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) in textiles and binding food waste reduction targets for all Member States, according to the European Commission.

The new directive aims to cut waste, reduce environmental damage, and strengthen the EU’s economic resilience by driving sustainable innovation and decreasing reliance on raw materials. It aligns with the EU’s Competitiveness Compass and Strategic Agenda for 2024–29, European Commission said in a press release.

The European Union’s revised Waste Framework Directive came into effect yesterday, establishing unified rules for EPR in textiles and setting binding targets to reduce food waste.
Aimed at cutting waste and boosting circularity, it requires Member States to set up EPR schemes, reduce food waste by up to 30 per cent by 2030, and promote eco-modulated fees, and sustainable design.

The EU’s textile and clothing industry remains an economic powerhouse, generating €170 billion (~$198.9 billion) in 2023 and employing 1.3 million people across nearly 197,000 companies. Yet, it is also one of the most resource-intensive sectors, ranking third in water and land use impact and fifth in raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019 alone, the EU generated 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only one-fifth separately collected for reuse or recycling.

To address these challenges, the revised directive introduces two major sets of measures to promote circularity and competitiveness:

  • Under mandatory EPR schemes, each Member State must establish a system requiring producers of textiles and footwear to pay fees for every product placed on the market. These funds will finance collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal operations. The fees will also support consumer awareness campaigns and R&D in sustainable design and waste prevention. EPR fees will vary according to sustainability criteria under the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)—a principle known as eco-modulation. Producers will pay less for durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products, incentivising circular design.
  • The directive also sets new rules for managing used textiles, ensuring that all separately collected textiles are classified as waste to prevent false reuse labelling and illegal exports. Unsorted textile waste will fall under the Waste Shipment Regulation.

Member States have 20 months to transpose the directive into national law and 30 months to set up their textile and footwear EPR schemes. Competent authorities must be designated by January 17, 2026, and updated food waste prevention plans finalised by October 17, 2027.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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Burkina Faso fully nationalises leading cotton firm Sofitex

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Burkina Faso fully nationalises leading cotton firm Sofitex



Burkina Faso recently announced the full nationalisation of Burkinabe Company of Textile Fibres (Sofitex), the country’s leading cotton company, citing rising debt, declining production and inefficiencies.

The decision was taken during a meeting of the council of ministers that was chaired by the Transitional President Captain Ibrahim Traore.

Burkina Faso has announced the full nationalisation of Burkinabe Company of Textile Fibres (Sofitex), citing rising debt, declining production and inefficiencies.
Sofitex was a mixed-ownership firm, in which the state held a majority stake.
Full state ownership is expected to lead to tighter financial discipline, improved governance and a restructuring of operations to boost efficiency.

Sofitex was a mixed-ownership cotton company, in which the state held a controlling majority stake and private investors owned a minority share valued at about 75 billion CFA francs.

A 2025 valuation cited by the government places Sofitex’s total worth at 338.14 billion CFA francs (~$607 million), with the private stake valued at just over 75 billion CFA francs for 976,400 shares.

The company’s cotton production fell by 24-26 per cent to under 300,000 metric tonnes in the 2024-2025 season.

Full state ownership is expected to lead to tighter financial discipline, improved governance and a restructuring of operations to boost efficiency, according to a domestic media outlet.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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UK’ John Lewis appoints Jacqui Markham as new creative head of fashion

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UK’ John Lewis appoints Jacqui Markham as new creative head of fashion



John Lewis has appointed Jacqui Markham as its new Fashion Creative Director. She will lead the creative direction of John Lewis own-brand fashion across womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear.

Markham joins from Whistles, where she served as Creative Director.  She was previously Global Design Director at Topshop and Design Director at ASOS. She succeeds Queralt Ferrer who steps down after four years with the Partnership.

John Lewis has appointed Jacqui Markham as fashion creative director, overseeing own-brand womenswear, menswear and childrenswear.
She joins from Whistles and succeeds Queralt Ferrer.
The move strengthens investment in design, quality and relevance, alongside digital growth, Oxford Street refurbishments, exclusive collaborations and an expanded line-up of global fashion brands.

The appointment marks the next phase in John Lewis developing its own brand fashion, with clear creative direction and continued investment behind it.

Markham brings a strong track record of building distinctive, successful collections with a focus on design, quality and relevance for customers.

Her appointment comes alongside John Lewis’s continued investment in fashion, including upgrades to shops and digital, and the recent refurbishment of womenswear and menswear at the Oxford Street flagship store.

This month also sees the launch of the second John Lewis x Rejina Pyo collaboration, and a new 15-piece exclusive capsule collection from Amanda Wakeley.  These will complement the expanded line-up of new brands including Samsoe Samsoe, MOTHER, St Agni, Patagonia, Belstaff, Missoma and Completedworks.

Rachel Morgans, John Lewis Director of Fashion, said: “I look forward to welcoming Jacqui to John Lewis at a defining moment for our fashion business. She brings a wealth of expertise and a proven ability to create exceptional design and will support our future creative vision.”

Jacqui Markham commented: “I am very excited to join the Partnership and to work together with all the teams toward a shared vision for the future of John Lewis. It feels like a seminal moment in the long history of the Partnership, and I cannot wait to get started to help shape that vision and bring our collective ideas to light.”

Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)



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Bangladesh RMG units call for allowing local FOC raw material sourcing

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Bangladesh RMG units call for allowing local FOC raw material sourcing



Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) manufacturers recently requested the government to remove restrictions on sourcing raw materials free of cost (FOC) from local suppliers.

While exporters are now allowed to import raw materials from abroad on an FOC basis under a recent policy change, such a provision does not exist for sourcing the same materials locally, industry leaders said.

Bangladesh RMG players have urged the government to remove restrictions on sourcing raw materials free of cost (FOC) from local suppliers.
Industry leaders said allowing FOC sourcing from domestic suppliers would boost local sales, strengthen backward linkage industries and raise overall value addition in the export-oriented sector.
Many local suppliers can provide inputs now against global orders.

They feel allowing FOC sourcing from domestic suppliers would boost local sales, strengthen backward linkage industries and raise overall value addition in the export-oriented RMG sector.

In a letter sent recently to the National Board of Revenue (NBR), the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) called for removing policy barriers and providing clarity on the issue, according to a domestic media outlet.

Many local suppliers are now capable of providing inputs against international buyers’ orders. In some cases, foreign buyers or their nominated agents are willing to supply materials free of cost through local vendors for use in export production.

However, the absence of clear policy guidelines on whether such transactions qualify as ‘deemed exports’ has created uncertainty, preventing manufacturers from using locally sourced FOC inputs.

Allowing exporters to use locally-sourced inputs under a cutting, making and trimming (CMT) model would further streamline production, BKMEA said.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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