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Indian textile hubs under strain due to tariffs, await job loss: GTRI

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Indian textile hubs under strain due to tariffs, await job loss: GTRI



US tariffs will hit 66 per cent of India’s exports worth $86.5 billion, with textiles, carpets, handicraft, leather and the gems sectors are at risk, according to think tank Global Trade Research Initiative (GTRI).

Indian goods worth $60.2 billion started facing 50 per cent US duties from August 27. Thirty per cent of US-bound exports remain duty-free. Pharmaceuticals, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), electronics lead $27.6 billion worth duty-free exports.

India’s competitors are poised to gain and will replace India in key sectors. The country’s gross domestic product (GDP) growth could drop from 6.5 per cent to 5.6 per cent, but 20 per cent export-to-GDP ratio provides cushion, the report noted.

US tariffs will hit 66 per cent of India’s exports worth $86.5 billion, with textile-apparel, carpets, handicraft, leather and the gems sectors are at risk, according to think tank Global Trade Research Initiative.
Labour-intensive sectors are bracing for 70 per cent export collapse.
Textile hubs like Tiruppur, Noida-Gurugram, Ludhiana, Jaipur and Bengaluru will be under pressure.

The most severely affected sectors are those where the United States accounts for over 30 per cent of India’s global exports, predominantly labour-intensive industries, which now face 70-80 per cent expected declines in annual exports.

Sectors with less than 20-per cent share in exports to the United States, though relatively insulated, still face 50-70-per cent potential declines due to their integration in global value chains. These include organic chemicals.

Textiles and apparel

India’s textiles and apparel sector, whose annual exports to the United States are worth $10.8 billion with 35 per cent of the share of total exports to that country, will see 63.9 per cent tariffs. Tiruppur, Noida-Gurugram, Ludhiana, Jaipur and Bengaluru will be under pressure. Bangladesh, Vietnam, Mexico, and CAFTA-DR countries are expected to replace Indian suppliers, GTRI report said.

With margins in the single digits, the new tariff effectively shuts Indian apparel out of its largest market. Tiruppur exporters are rushing shipments while cancelling new styles, while Noida-Gurugram players have frozen planned capacity expansions and is considering downsizing.

Ludhiana reports a slump in yarn and fabric demand, with working capital under stress; and Bengaluru units are preparing for shift cuts as buyers push for offshore production. Industry estimates warn of hundreds of thousands of jobs at risk across these hubs if US demand collapses.

Exporters have front-loaded shipments ahead of the deadline, but consider the government’s temporary 11-per cent cotton duty waiver (August 19-September 30) insufficient to offset the loss. A few firms are shifting US-bound programmes to Bangladesh, Indonesia, Vietnam and Guatemala, while others may start using factories in Ethiopia and Kenya (around 10-per cent tariff). Industry bodies are seeking emergency credit and tax relief.

Carpets

The carpets sector, with $1.2 billion worth annual exports to the United States and 58.6 per cent share, faces collapse, it noted. Livelihoods in Bhadohi, Mirzapur and Srinagar will be jeopardised, while Turkey, Pakistan, Nepal and China gaining.

Bhadohi-Mirzapur exporters report containers ready but orders cancelled or delayed, while Kashmir’s hand-knotting community faces potential mass unemployment as orders dry up. Moradabad, linked through metalware and accessories, is also seeing a slowdown.

Larger firms are exploring new markets in the Middle East and Europe, product diversification into synthetic rugs, and offshore machine-made production in Turkey or Egypt to maintain US access. However, for traditional hand-knotted producers, relocation is not an option due to the highly specialised and localised nature of their craft.

Handicrafts

Handicrafts ($1.6 billion; 40-per cent share) and furniture and bedding ($1.1 billion; 44.8-per cent share) risk factory closures across Jodhpur, Jaipur, Moradabad and Saharanpur, with Vietnam, China, Turkey, and Mexico filling the gap.

The effect is widespread across India’s craft hubs. Rajasthan faces severe disruption, with many workshops preparing for closures. Uttar Pradesh has seen orders paused and production cuts in brassware and wood-carving units. The tariff threatens not only incomes but also the survival of centuries-old craft traditions.

Leather and footwear

Leather and footwear ($1.2 billion; 20-per cent share) will lose ground to Vietnam, China, Indonesia and Mexico, threatening Agra, Kanpur and Tamil Nadu’s Ambur-Ranipet clusters, the GTRI report observed.

Industry bodies are pushing for diversification into the EU, the United Kingdom and Gulf markets and exploring ‘Made in Europe’ partnerships to retain competitiveness in the US market.

Furniture and Bedding

India’s exports to the United States of this sector was $1.1 billion in FY25, with the latter having 44.8-per cent share in India’s exports. Tariffs rise from 2.3 per cent to 52.3 per cent, affecting manufacturing hubs in Jodhpur and Moradabad.

Mattresses, already under US anti-dumping duties since 2024, will now face a prohibitive cost barrier, effectively pricing Indian products out of the American market, the GTRI report said.

Jodhpur and Saharanpur workshops report packed containers with buyers withdrawing orders, forcing overtime cuts and layoffs. The Delhi-National Capital Region upholstery belt is holding finished goods in warehouses as US buyers re-price contracts, while protests in Jaipur’s handicraft districts highlight fears of widespread job losses.

Thousands of livelihoods linked to timber, textiles, and artisanal supply chains risk collapse if US demand vanishes, according to the report.

For bedding and home textiles, Pakistan, China, Turkey and Vietnam are poised to replace Indian suppliers, while Vietnam, Indonesia, Mexico, and China will dominate mattresses and boxed foam products, it noted.

Organic Chemicals

Organic chemicals ($2.7 billion; 13.2-per cent share) will see tariffs jump from 4 per cent to 54 per cent, crippling chemical hubs in Gujarat, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh and yielding ground to EU, China, Mexico and South Korea.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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Calais-Caudry Lace aims to secure European Geographical Indication status

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Calais-Caudry Lace aims to secure European Geographical Indication status


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October 18, 2025

Recognised as a protected geographical indication in France, Dentelle de Calais-Caudry says it has begun the process of becoming a European geographical indication to better protect its identity against low-grade counterfeits.

Dentelle de Calais-Caudry

From December 1, the European Union will introduce a simplified procedure under Regulation 2024/1143, which now governs geographical indications and protected designations of origin across its Member States.

Crucially, Europe is now extending a protection regime to artisanal, manufactured, and industrial products, which was previously reserved for agricultural produce, foodstuffs, and spirits.

“The Dentelliers de Calais-Caudry have already applied to the INPI, which is responsible for forwarding their application to the EUIPO (European Union Intellectual Property Office), so that their geographical indication can be recognised throughout the European Union”, say the Calais and Caudry lacemakers.

Dentelle de Calais-Caudry became a regulated geographical indication in France at the beginning of 2024. It took the local industry’s representatives five years to achieve this goal, which aims to distinguish and protect know-how that is more than two centuries old, and relies on the use of imposing, complex Leavers looms, which lend their name to the lace they produce. In 1958, the “Dentelle de Calais” label was launched, and in 2015 it became “Dentelle de Calais-Caudry”, to include manufacturers from the Caudry area.

Dentelle de Calais-Caudry

“Regularly confronted with very poor-quality counterfeits that damage their image and sales, the lacemakers of Calais-Caudry will, by obtaining this European geographical indication, benefit from legal protection across the 27 countries of the Union”, says the label, which hopes that “this guarantee of authenticity and quality, which will reassure all designers, stylists and lovers of Calais-Caudry lace, will help safeguard this know-how, these ‘passion’ trades, and accelerate international development.”

Today, Calais-Caudry lace is produced in Calais by Codentel, Cosetex, Noyon (Darquer), and Sophie Hallette / Riechers Marescot, which also operates in Caudry. The town is also home to Beauvillain Davoine, Darquer & Méry, Dentelles André Laude, Dentelles MC, Jean Bracq, and Solstiss.

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Weak demand drags Hong Kong apparel imports down 33% in Jan–Aug

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Weak demand drags Hong Kong apparel imports down 33% in Jan–Aug












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EU enforces new Waste Framework Directive to boost circular economy

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EU enforces new Waste Framework Directive to boost circular economy



The European Union’s (EU) targeted revision of the Waste Framework Directive officially entered into force yesterday, introducing common rules for Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) in textiles and binding food waste reduction targets for all Member States, according to the European Commission.

The new directive aims to cut waste, reduce environmental damage, and strengthen the EU’s economic resilience by driving sustainable innovation and decreasing reliance on raw materials. It aligns with the EU’s Competitiveness Compass and Strategic Agenda for 2024–29, European Commission said in a press release.

The European Union’s revised Waste Framework Directive came into effect yesterday, establishing unified rules for EPR in textiles and setting binding targets to reduce food waste.
Aimed at cutting waste and boosting circularity, it requires Member States to set up EPR schemes, reduce food waste by up to 30 per cent by 2030, and promote eco-modulated fees, and sustainable design.

The EU’s textile and clothing industry remains an economic powerhouse, generating €170 billion (~$198.9 billion) in 2023 and employing 1.3 million people across nearly 197,000 companies. Yet, it is also one of the most resource-intensive sectors, ranking third in water and land use impact and fifth in raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019 alone, the EU generated 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only one-fifth separately collected for reuse or recycling.

To address these challenges, the revised directive introduces two major sets of measures to promote circularity and competitiveness:

  • Under mandatory EPR schemes, each Member State must establish a system requiring producers of textiles and footwear to pay fees for every product placed on the market. These funds will finance collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal operations. The fees will also support consumer awareness campaigns and R&D in sustainable design and waste prevention. EPR fees will vary according to sustainability criteria under the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)—a principle known as eco-modulation. Producers will pay less for durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products, incentivising circular design.
  • The directive also sets new rules for managing used textiles, ensuring that all separately collected textiles are classified as waste to prevent false reuse labelling and illegal exports. Unsorted textile waste will fall under the Waste Shipment Regulation.

Member States have 20 months to transpose the directive into national law and 30 months to set up their textile and footwear EPR schemes. Competent authorities must be designated by January 17, 2026, and updated food waste prevention plans finalised by October 17, 2027.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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